The Greeks Are Not Lazy

The reason why Greece is in such serious trouble is because the Greeks are a lazy people who while away the days drinking ouzo on the beach, playing backgammon in cafés, smashing plates and dancing the Sirtaki – Zorba’s Dance. Now their culture of irresponsibility is finally catching up to them and they’re in danger of bringing the entire global economy down with them.

Not everyone has been this blunt in assessing the Greek crisis, but the country and its people have been taking a beating in the court of world opinion over the last year. Thomas Friedman, the New York Times columnist, implied that Greeks needed to be more like Germans in how they saved, how many hours they worked and how frequently they vacationed. This, despite the fact that according to the OECD the Greeks work longer hours than anyone else in Europe – a full 40 percent more than Germans, for example.

Next, “60 Minutes” got in on the “Greeks Are Lazy” innuendo with a story that stated, “In the past, when the Greeks found their accounts overdrawn, the country simply printed more money, or devalued its currency, to accommodate the relaxed Greek lifestyle.” The clip to accompany the narration showed a pair of young Greeks laughing and embracing.And Fox News analyst Bob Beckel said that Greeks were “a bunch of lazy people who don’t work.” And scores of other politicians and pundits have been less blunt while delivering a similar point.

I think the main reason why there seems to be so little sympathy for the plight of the Greeks is this persistent stereotype that the Greeks have been partying a bit too hard and need to put their noses to the grindstone and get to work.

I’ve been traveling to Greece for more than 15 years and have had the pleasure of getting to know lots of Greeks in the U.S. No two are exactly alike but the common thread I’ve noticed across this culture is their love for and pride in their country, and their strong work ethic. They travel the world in search of work but retain their culture and always strive to return home to Greece. Let me introduce you to a few of the Greeks I’ve met while traveling in Greece the last few weeks.

Sofia Tsatsa works at the City Market along the harbor in Kos, an island in the eastern Aegean that was home to Hippocrates, the father of Western medicine (see first photo). I was in Kos for ten days and shopped at this market every night, and Sofia and her co-workers, Barbara and Sotiria, were always hard at work. One night, I asked them if they were looking forward to the weekend or their next day off.

“Day off?” Barbara said, looking at me as though she was unfamiliar with the concept. “We don’t have days off.”

At the moment, there is no real minimum wage in Greece, no mandated vacation time and many employers are using the crisis as an excuse to slash workers’ wages. Sofia and her colleagues work seven days a week, ten hours per day, usually until 2 a.m. and they make only 800€ per month for their efforts.

Think they’re an aberration? Walk out of the City Market, take your second left on Themistokleous Street, and meet Bogdana Petrova, a Greek of Bulgarian origin who runs the Easy Laundromat. Bogdana works from 9 a.m. until 9 p.m. every single day with no days off. I brought a mountain of laundry to her shop one day and was almost embarrassed when she asked for just 6€ to wash, dry and fold the whole travel wardrobe of our family of four.

Duck out of the Easy Laundromat and head to the Kosta Palace Hotel along the harbor. Amble up to the front desk and you’ll find either Kotsifakos Manos (see photo below) or his wife, Elena on duty. Each day, one works the early shift and the other works the late shift, so they don’t see each other until 11 p.m. each night. Their next day off? Not until November 1, the start of the slow season in Kos.

These are the people you’ll meet when you travel to Greece. Take the time to talk to them, learn their stories and you’ll see the Greek work ethic in person. Trying to dissect exactly how Greece got itself into this mess is tricky, but if you want to try to apportion blame, start with Greece’s politicians, who have allowed the country’s oligarchs to evade taxes on a grand scale, while allowing Greece’s public sector to mushroom, all the while trying to pretend as though their government’s profligate spending was somehow sustainable.

Ask Dimitris Kalaitzes, the owner of Jimmy’s Balcony, a restaurant that overlooks Patmos’s glorious harbor, how Greece is viewed in the world and he’ll tell you about what an NYPD officer asked him after pulling him over on the Verazzano Bridge earlier this year.

“He said, ‘Greece is this small little country, how is it possible that it could bring down the entire world economy?'”

Greece is going to the polls again on June 17, and according to many I’ve spoken to, Syriza, a leftist coalition that wants to renegotiate Greece’s austerity deal with the E.U. and the I.M.F., may very well win.

“They are suffocating us,” said Anna Avgouli, the editor of Stathmos, a weekly newspaper in Kos, referring to the EU/IMF austerity deal. “The Greek people are ready for change and that makes Europe afraid. Greeks are ready to stand on their own feet.”

If you travel to Greece this summer, and you should, have no doubt that you’ll receive an even warmer welcome than usual. Greeks are angry and embarrassed by how their country has been portrayed in the international media and they are eager to show the world what their country and their culture are all about.

And if you want to put the current crisis in perspective, visit the Holy Monastery of St. John the Theologian, built in 1088 near the site where St. John the Divine wrote the Book of Revelation. I asked the Monastery’s Abbott about the Greek crisis and his response summarized for me the capacity of the Greek people to endure just about anything.

“Crisis?” he said, looking a bit confused by my question. “We’ve been here for 10 Centuries and we will continue on.”

(Photos by Dave Seminara)

What 50 Euros A Night Buys In The Greek Isles Right Now

The day before we left for Greece, the newspaper headlines made it sound as though the country was about to disintegrate. “Greece on Brink of Collapse,” blared the U.K broadsheet The Daily Telegraph in a front page above the fold piece last week, after the International Monetary Fund said that Europe’s leaders should prepare for the possibility of Greece leaving the Euro zone.

We’ve been reading bad news about Greece for many months now, so the most recent news that Greece is about to hold yet another election and may very well leave the Euro zone is just the latest chapter in Greece’s economic free fall. Over the last year, protesters have run wild on the streets of Athens, and other Greek cities on several occasions, but why are some tourists avoiding Greece this year?

We spent most of the last month in Italy and I met several people who said that they considered the Greek Isles but decided against it based upon all the bad news coming out of Greece in recent months. A pharmacist in Kefalos named Bill, who gave my family a lift to the island’s lovely “Paradise Beach” told us that he has friends around Europe who asked him if there was enough food to eat in Greece.

“It’s ridiculous,” he said. “They see all the bad news on T.V. and think people are starving here.”

I have the opposite take – Greece is still safe, especially the Greek Isles, and with other tourists staying away, now is the time to visit as the crowds are thinner and the prices will probably never be better.Is there something unseemly about swooping into a country in crisis for travel bargains? The Greeks would say: hell no, please, please, please come to Greece! There is nothing you can do to help the Greeks more than to come here on your next holiday.

I’ve been in Kos with my family for just a few days but have already noticed that the crowds are light and the prices are enticing. After booking another hotel on the Internet before arriving, I walked into a place on the harbor called the Kosta Palace, and after a brief negotiation, I was offered a two-room apartment with Wi-Fi, a kitchenette and a balcony with no view for a family of four for 50 euros per night, including a copious, if aggressively mediocre, breakfast buffet.

Like nearly all mid-range Greek hotels, the place is nothing fancy. In fact, the furnishings at nearly all moderately priced hotels in Greece are practically identical – that is, not that stylish. But the room is clean and spacious, the Wi-Fi works (sometimes), the water pressure is good and the place has a nice pool and a stunning rooftop bar with panoramic views of Kos (see video). A couple can score a room here for as little as 45 euros through the end of May, and 55 euros through the end of June, which is awfully hard to beat.

Over the next six weeks, I’ll be traveling around the Greek Isles, starting in the Dodecanese islands in the eastern Aegean, so stay tuned for more updates on the situation in Greece.

[Photos and video by Dave Seminara- photo 1 was taken at the beach bar of Kos’s Hotel Artemis, photo 2 was taken at the Kosta Palace’s rooftop terrace.)