In the Corner of the World – With the wind in your sails

by Grant Martin on


Over the next few weeks here at Gadling, we’ll be bringing you updates from our recent travels across New Zealand – in the process, we hope to offer a range of perspectives about what visiting this truly unique and fascinating country is all about. You can read previous entries HERE.

It’s no secret that New Zealand breeds some of the best sailors on the planet. With serious players in every large regatta including America’s Cup and the Volvo Ocean Race, one begins to think that Kiwis have seawater in their blood.

It may be true. As an island nation deep in the South Pacific, water is always nearby the average citizen. Auckland, the largest city in this corner of the world is surrounded by water, with personal, commercial and ferry ships strewn across the Waitemata Harbor like marbles on rolling sand.

It should thus follow that no trip to New Zealand is complete without some time spent on the water, whether this is swimming with dolphins, floating through glow worm caves, whitewater rafting or sailing through the pacific, and Waitemata harbor is no exception, hosting a broad range of nautical excursions for the seafaring visitor.

Should you fancy your own sailing experience when you’re in Auckland, there are several companies that offer charters from the downtown pier. SailNZ, the owners of two former America’s Cup racing yachts hosts a variety of tours in the Auckland Harbor, from a simple, pleasant day cruise to a hands-on navigation experience to a full bore, competitive race. You can check out their highly recommended tours at SailNZ.co.nz.

If you’re curious how sailing an America’s Cup Yacht feels, check out the video after the jump.

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In the Corner of the World – Struggles of the modern Maori

by Mike Barish on

Over the next few weeks here at Gadling, we’ll be bringing you updates from our recent travels across New Zealand – in the process, we hope to offer a range of perspectives about what visiting this truly unique and fascinating country is all about. You can read previous entries HERE.

After more than 24 hours of travel, I arrived in Auckland, New Zealand. It was the longest amount of time that I had ever spent en route to a destination and the farthest that I had ever been from home. I was on the opposite side of the planet from my life in New York and experiencing the South Pacific for the first time. And I couldn’t shake one really odd feeling: The people here sure don’t look like Pacific Islanders. It seemed like everyone was white, spoke the Queen’s English and had created their own Little Britain. Maori people are grossly outnumbered by their colonial countrymen and their existence is markedly different. People of Maori decent currently make up only 15% of New Zealand’s population and they lag behind their European counterparts in crucial areas such as unemployment rates, literacy and health. This upset me and I wanted to learn more.

It seemed strange that people would travel all the way to New Zealand, snap photos of Maori meeting houses and war canoes and then leave without learning anything about modern Maori life. Troubled by how limited my interaction with Maori was while I was in New Zealand, I decided to retroactively learn more about the troubles that have befallen the population. What I learned was disheartening though not surprising given the country’s colonial history.
I scoured the website of Statistics New Zealand, the government’s official statistics department, for more information on the state of the Maori population. While the country is located in a far corner of the world, a distinction that inspired the name of this Gadling feature, it is growing whiter every year. Maori population growth is slowing at an alarming rate. Contributing to this is the average Maori life expectancy, which is about seven years less than the non-Maori population. Similarly, the gap between Maori and non-Maori mortality rates is growing.

Many of the Maori I did see in New Zealand were working in blue collar, unskilled positions. According to Statistics New Zealand,

Among the full-time employed, a higher proportion of Māori than non-Māori were employed in occupations with lower median incomes, for example, as sales and service workers, plant and machinery operators and in elementary occupations. In contrast, a lower proportion of Māori were employed as legislators, administrators and managers, professionals or technicians and associate professionals, occupations with higher median incomes. Māori were one and a half times more likely than non-Māori to be employed as trades workers and plant and machinery operators than legislators, administrators and managers.

This can be partially explained by the low literacy rates of the Maori. A recent survey described by Statistics New Zealand showed that close to three-fourths of Maori had literacy skills that were below the aptitude necessary to handle the “complex demands of everyday life and work.”

As a result of these low literacy rates and high proportion of Maori in low income jobs, more than 30% of Maori are in the lowest quartile of ranked incomes. While the non-Maori population sees a more even distribution of their population in the four household income quartiles, Maori are over-represented in the bottom two income quartiles.

Perhaps even more troubling is the representation of Maori in New Zealand’s prisons. Despite making up only 15% of the total population, close to 50% of New Zealand’s incarcerated prisoners are Maori according to the Department of Corrections.

By no means am I sharing these statistics to paint the Maori in an unflattering light. To the contrary, I seek only to illustrate how colonization drastically affects native people. The Treaty of Waitangi, which I touched upon briefly in an earlier post, has always been a point of contention between the Maori and the European settlers, and many argue that it was not properly explained to the Maori at the time of ratification. Regardless, since colonization, Maori culture has been marginalized and, to a degree, celebrated only for tourism purposes.

I loved my visit to New Zealand. And so did my Gadling cohorts Grant and Jeremy. The landscape is beautiful and the people are some of the friendliest I have ever met. But it was a reminder that traveling is more than just seeing sites and taking photos. We should learn about other cultures as we explore the world. And, as I looked around this remote corner of the world, I felt like it shouldn’t be so white. But that’s the truth in any place where colonization has occurred.

For better or for worse, Europeans spread their cultures across the globe centuries ago. But we should never forget the native cultures that existed before colonization and struggle to maintain their identities today. That is evident in the United States, as well, where Native Americans also face challenges with unemployment, literacy rates and health issues. These problems are not unique to New Zealand but, for some reason, I noticed them more there than any other place I have traveled.

Maybe I just feel as if, after 24 hours on a plane to a far-flung locale, that I should have had a far less seamless transition. I wanted a bit of culture shock. I wanted to feel as if I was far from home. But, at the end of the day, New Zealand kind of felt like Hawaii and Vermont had a baby and England adopted it. I guess I wanted something more untouched. But maybe that doesn’t exist anymore.

Read more of Gadling’s In the Corner of the World series here.

In the Corner of the World – It ain’t easy being a kiwi

by Jeremy Kressmann on

Over the next few weeks here at Gadling, we’ll be bringing you updates from our recent travels across New Zealand – in the process, we hope to offer a range of perspectives about what visiting this truly unique and fascinating country is all about. You can read previous entries HERE.

What is it about a place that truly makes it unique? Is it one of a kind outdoor spaces? Quirky cities? Perhaps friendly locals that make you feel welcome? In New Zealand, all of these one-of-kind traits are evident. But one particularly defining feature is the country’s truly bizarre wildlife. Thanks to its geographic isolation, over a thousand miles from the nearest large landmass, mother nature has allowed some truly strange and one-of-a-kind animals to flourish, particularly flightless birds like the kiwi.

Given the bird can be found only in New Zealand, the country has long claimed it as a point of national identity. The country first began adopting the bird as its official symbol in the late 19th Century, when it appeared on products like Kiwi Shoe Polish as well as on military uniforms. Signs dot the highways all across New Zealand, warning you to look out for the creatures and gift shops are filled with eyeroll-inducing mounds of kiwi souvenirs.

With all the attention showered on this weird little bird, you’d think they would be all over the place, right? Wrong. Thanks to the threat of predators like dogs and weasels that were introduced to New Zealand and feed on the birds and their eggs, kiwis are now considered an endangered species. In fact, in an intensive effort is currently underway to locate and raise kiwi eggs in labs so they have a better chance of survival.

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But, I have a confession. After touring a facility where they raise the young kiwis, I was struck by the futility of the whole process. Why try and protect a flightless bird that can’t fend for itself in the wild? And what does the plight of the kiwi say about New Zealand’s prospects to remain a wild, unspoiled place? Click below to find out…
Saving a kiwi isn’t as easy as declaring them protected. It involves arduous, painstaking work. Once field staff has located kiwi eggs in the wild, they are brought to a facility for protection. The eggs are then weighed, measured and inspected, before being placed in incubators where they must be closely monitored by the staff for around 60-90 days. After which time the birds hatch, the young chicks are kept in protective pens until they are deemed strong enough to be returned to the wild.

The entire operation has a great purpose – I can certainly understand the need to protect a creature that has come to represent a totally unique place in New Zealand’s culture. But let’s be honest here – evolution does not want this animal alive. A variety of factors, including the introduction of invasive species to the New Zealand ecosystem, the encroachment of man on the creature’s traditional habitats and sloppy parental instincts (kiwis are known to desert their eggs) have all conspired to reduce their numbers to the point of near extinction.

Yet there is something so hopelessly noble in the urge to protect the kiwi. This animal is no longer just a cute fluffy thing with a beak. Instead it’s come to represent New Zealand’s attempts to come to grips with the country’s national identity. An urge to recognize the unique things that make their country special but realizing they are partly responsible for their continued decline. It was a relationship doomed from the start – the moment settlers began to colonize New Zealand, they began to inextricably change the landscape and the native Maori people, introducing plants and animals previously unknown to the island’s native wildlife and precipitating their current demise. It’s a process that cannot be stopped – only slowed down.

Yet this totally one-of-a-kind animal persists to survive, nudged along by its hopeful guardians. It’s the most delicate of balancing acts – can the New Zealand of now co-exist with the wild New Zealand that once was? Let’s hope, for the kiwi’s sake, the answer is yes.

In the Corner of the World – The Bay of Plenty

by Mike Barish on

Over the next few weeks here at Gadling, we’ll be bringing you updates from our recent travels across New Zealand – in the process, we hope to offer a range of perspectives about what visiting this truly unique and fascinating country is all about. You can read previous entries HERE.

I arrived in the Bay of Plenty fresh off several days relaxing in the Bay of Islands. Now, don’t be fooled. Not every place in New Zealand uses the naming device Bay of [noun]. It’s not a game of Mad Libs. The Bay of Plenty, however, is so named because Captain Cook was able to replenish his supplies when he arrived there in the latter half of the 18th Century. That’s how things worked back then. It is also why his previous stop which netted him virtually no provisions has been saddled with such a tourism unfriendly name: Poverty Bay. However, the Bay of Plenty’s name is still deserved today as it remains just as lush as ever and now boasts myriad activities for travelers who pass through.

I visited the two most popular destinations in the Bay of Plenty, Tauranga and Mount Maunganui. They go hand-in-hand and provide a fantastic opportunity to experience the North Island’s breathtaking topography.

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If you’re visiting the Bay of Plenty, you will find most of the accommodation options in Tauranga. It’s a backpackers haven not only because of all of the tourists passing through but because of the seasonal fruit-picking work that draws young Europeans looking to extend their time in New Zealand. The Bay of Plenty is a major kiwifruit-picking region, so seasonal labor pours into the area from April through the winter (and by winter, I mean Southern Hemisphere winter). I found myself a double en suite at the Harbouside City Backpackers on The Strand, Tauranga’s main waterfront street. I was a short walk from every bar, restaurant and activity that I could possible want to enjoy.

Having arrived in the late afternoon, I got myself settled as quickly as possible and made my way out into the Tauranga nightlife. Before arriving, I had made connections with a few locals through CouchSurfing, so I had some drinking companions. Chris, a British doctor completing his residency in the Bay of Plenty, was more than happy to join me for some pints at the Crown & Badger, where Boston native and CouchSurfer Alicia kept the Tui flowing. I had never met these people in person before, but, like all my experiences in New Zealand, I immediately felt comfortable and welcome. We wiled away the hours exploring The Strand, discussing the Kiwi’s horrendous aptitude for dancing and finding the bottom of many glasses.

The next morning, having enjoyed Tauranga’s less organic pleasures, I was eager to take advantage of my natural surroundings. There is plenty to do on the water in the Bay of Plenty and I was ready to get out there. Having heard that New Zealand provides some of the best opportunities to swim with dolphins, I made a booking with Dolphin Seafaris (and not just because I love a good pun).

Dolphin Seafaris’ staff is comprised almost entirely of marine biologists who have dedicated their professional lives to studying and protecting these amazing creatures. To go out on their boat is the adult equivalent of a school field trip (and I mean that in the most positive way possible). You’ll learn about the dolphin behavior and also have the opportunity to get into the water and swim with them assuming that the conditions allow. I was fortunate enough put my wetsuit to proper use and will never forget the experience of being mere inches away from our aquatic cousins. The dolphins frolicked around the boat and I truly enjoyed a shared experience with them.

Rather than return to Tauranga, I asked the captain to drop me off at the pier near Mount Maunganui. The Mount, as it is often called (or Mauao in Maori) is connected to Taurangua by a thin peninsula. It’s not so much a mountain as it is a 700+ foot extinct volcano that is noticeable from virtually anywhere in the Bay of Plenty.

I decided to hike up the 2km summit trail and see the view for myself. From the pier, it’s only a five minute walk to the Mount’s base. If you are looking for a more leisurely stroll, you can take advantage of the 3km walking path that loops around the base. Shortly into the summit walk, I realized that I was not alone. The Mount is home to sheep. Lots of sheep. New Zealand boasts a 10-1 sheep-to-person ratio, so this was not entirely unexpected. But, as a New Yorker, until I found myself alone on a hill within spitting distance of two-dozen sheep, I didn’t really know what that ratio would look like in person. Well, it looks like a lot of sheep poop on the trail.

It’s a rather easy walk up to the summit and the views along the way are magnificent. At the summit, I enjoyed a 360 degree view of the entire Bay of Plenty and lingered there to catch my breath and be alone with my thoughts.

I made my way back to the base and realized that I hadn’t eaten anything since I took advantage of the free breakfast on the dolphin boat. I headed into Mount Maunganui (which is also the name of the town – try to stay with me) and immediately made my way to Maunganui Road, which is a stretch of restaurants, shops and galleries. Not one to pass up local fish and chips, I enjoyed the largest pile of fried food I have ever consumed at the tiny but excellent Mount Fish & Chips. Wrapped in newspaper and fried to golden perfection, it was the freshest serving of fish and chips that I have ever tasted.

Satiated, I hopped on the Bay Hopper Bus for the short ride back over to Tauranga. I cleaned myself up and decided to take advantage of my proximity to the bars yet again. Chris was nice enough to join me for another night on the town, and we enjoyed a few pints while watching the India-New Zealand cricket match that was being played down in Wellington. It was during this night out that I found myself comforted by a wonderful realization. I was an American who had learned cricket in India sitting in a bar in New Zealand watching a match with a Brit and it all felt normal. Maybe it was the euphoria from my fulfilling afternoon adventures or just the alcohol, but I felt like I was belonged there.

That’s the wonderful thing about traveling. You get back what you put into it. And if you share yourself with New Zealand, it will offer plenty in return. Just like Captain Cook discovered over two centuries ago.

View Mike’s Bay of Plenty photo gallery. Read more of Gadling’s In the Corner of the World series here.

In the Corner of the World – Cold and glowing vs. hot and bubbly

by Jeremy Kressmann on

Over the next few weeks here at Gadling, we’ll be bringing you updates from our recent travels across New Zealand – in the process, we hope to offer a range of perspectives about what visiting this truly unique and fascinating country is all about. You can read previous entries HERE.

You’re standing on the edge of a ledge. Covered head-to-toe in a neoprene wetsuit, purple short-shorts and giant white rubber galoshes, and holding a large inner tube. You’re contemplating a jump into the frigid waters that slosh noisily just below. It’s pitch black, but your headlamp punches temporary holes in the emptiness, providing glimpses of other victims shouting and flailing wildly beneath you. A man taps you on the arm and pushes you forward – you hesitate, but there’s nothing to do but turn around and jump, plummeting ass-first towards the numbingly cold water beneath you, awaiting the inevitability of a painful impact.

This certainly wasn’t how I had pictured my day unfolding when it began. We were headed 2 hours south from Auckland, driving towards Waitomo, a village that is home to one of the largest complexes of underground caves in New Zealand. Caving is highly popular attraction in New Zealand, and the underground spaces like those found at Waitomo boast almost 400,000 visitors each year.

We had also heard about a peculiar Waitomo Cave phenomenon known as “Glowworms” – a unique species of bioluminescent insect that emits an eerie light in order to attract its prey. Glowing insects and cave exploring? Our interest was piqued – we wanted to see these strange creatures up and close and personal for ourselves. But how exactly does one go from a casual curiosity in glowing cave bugs to standing shivering, wearing a wetsuit in a pitch black cave? And how did we plan to warm ourselves up afterwards? Keep clicking below to see what happened.
Visitors to Waitomo caves have a huge range of options for viewing these amazing natural wonders and the strange wildlife like glow worms that live within them. Trips to Waitomo Caves range from more casual walking tours along guided underground paths to full-on spelunking and cave rafting expeditions.

Though a leisurely cave walk sounded fun, this was New Zealand after all – frequently cited as the home of “extreme sports.” We wanted a more “hands-on” experience so we opted for an underwater tubing trip which would take us on water voyage through the inner workings of the one of the caves. After suiting up in what is perhaps the stupidest outfit I’ve ever worn in my entire life (pictured left), we were ready to enter the caves.

As we entered the first narrow tunnel, icy cold water up to our waists, I began to wonder what I had gotten my claustrophobic self into – but the scenery quickly changed. After jumping through a few small waterfall pools, the ceiling soon opened upwards, revealing a massive underground cavern big enough to hold a cathedral and a meandering underground stream. Above us lay a miniature Milky Way of twinkling lights – a constellation of glowworm insects silently advertising for victims. We hopped aboard our inner tubes and floated lazily down the cave’s river as we gazed up at the artificial light show performance above us. Still under the hypnotic visual spell of such a strange sight, we soon emerged back into the midday light, none the worse for the wear but soaking wet and exhilarated by our recent adventure.

After all the freezing water from the morning’s caving activities, it was time to warm up and relax. We headed 150 kilometers east towards Rotorua, a city that lies on the edge of one of New Zealand’s more active geothermal hotspots. In addition to geysers and mud pools, Rotorua is also an outdoor activities destination offering the chance to mountain bike, raft, fish and swim. But a morning of cave-exploring had just about done us in at this point – we were ready to just hang out. We stopped by the Polynesian Spa to take a soak in their naturally heated thermal waters, renting a private pool with a view of Lake Rotorua for 30 minutes.

As we immersed ourselves in the warm embrace of the nearly 100 degree water, the starry night sky above us punctuated by the Southern Cross, we had a chance to think back. Our day had taken us across two huge extremes in temperature. From a morning sloshing through knee-deep freezing water, looking up at ghostly glowworms to a heated hot-spring pool and starlit New Zealand sky. Going from cold to hot – it was just the kind of extreme transition we’d come to find down in New Zealand, the corner of the world.