A Traveler in the Foreign Service: go native or go postal

Have you ever seen an American walking through an airport in a flowing, beaded sari, a colorful African tribal dress, or Afghan shalwar kameez and wondered, what the hell are they thinking? Expatriates who “go native” while living overseas might seem a bit loopy, but “going native” is actually a fairly common way to cope with culture shock.

A traveler and an expat experience foreign cultures in completely different ways. What can appear novel to the traveler can simply be a nuisance to the expatriate.

After an expat has been in their new country for a while, they inevitably confront aspects of the local culture they dislike. Even in the best places, we Americans can find things to complain about. Some cope with culture shock by retreating into a bubble- surrounding themselves with other foreigners and doing their best to recreate the lives they had before they left home. Others go native- completely rejecting their home culture and everyone who isn’t local. And of course, the majority are hybrids who fall somewhere in between.

Nearly every Foreign Service post has people in both extreme camps- let’s call them cowboys and natives for simplicity’s sake. We had one native in Skopje, whom I’ll call Native Neil, whom I really liked, but he was considered highly eccentric for embracing the local culture a bit too warmly. For example, Neil took public buses to get around Skopje while virtually no other Americans did. At the time, one could take a taxi pretty much anywhere in the city for the equivalent of $1. A bus ride cost 20 cents but the buses were extremely crowded and had erratic schedules.

Occasionally my wife and I would see Native Neil waiting at a bus stop and offer him a ride, and I think it embarrassed him to be seen interacting with other Americans. Native Neil didn’t need to save the 80 cents; he just wanted to completely immerse himself in the local culture, which is perfectly respectable. But for other Americans, that immersion made him a bit flaky.I tried to stake out some middle ground between the cowboys and natives, and, over time, I grew to love Macedonia and its people. (well, most of them) But there were definitely elements of the local culture that I could never embrace, even if I lived there a lifetime. Those who read this column regularly might recall that I’m a light sleeper.

Skopje is not a good city to be a light sleeper in. My apartment building was located at a busy intersection near downtown and we had several large garbage dumps just outside the gates of the building. Roma riding horse-drawn carriages would stop by to sift through the bins at all hours of the day and night and would send the neighborhood dogs into a barking frenzy. Frequently, I’d be jolted awake at 3 A.M. by a chorus of baying dogs, who wanted everyone in the neighborhood to know that our trash was being violated.

Because it would take time for the Roma to sift through all the bins, the barking would sometimes go on for 15-20 minutes, maybe more. I was friendly with the buildings’ caretakers, Blagoj and Nikola, who spent the bulk of their days in a windowless room staring at a wall, so I asked Nikola what could be done about the barking dogs. He agreed to speak to the owners and, in my American naiveté, I assumed that they would do something to try to quiet their dogs, who slept outside in front of their homes.

But Nikola’s détente came to naught.

“They love their dogs, there’s nothing we can do,” he reported back.

“But couldn’t they let them sleep inside?” I asked.

“I don’t think so,” he said.

They were guard dogs and guard dogs belonged outside. I turned to my good friend and neighbor, Georgi.

“Well, Macedonians have a different way of dealing with such problems,” he said.

He went on to tell a story about how, as a youth, a favorite family dog had been poisoned with tainted meat by a neighbor who was annoyed with its barking. So rather than knock on the neighbor’s door to complain, they had simply killed the dog. I was told that this was not an uncommon approach in the Balkans. But I wasn’t about to annihilate the neighborhood dogs over lost sleep, so I just lived with it.

But a bad neighbor whom I dubbed Evil Atso was another matter. Evil Atso was a Mafioso thug who lived directly above us. He and his obnoxious wife used to let their little rat of a dog out into the hallway to piss and shit in the common area and would often park all three of their luxury cars in such a way that they’d block other residents in their spots. No one said a word because everyone was afraid of him.

Evil Atso was doing a major renovation of his apartment, and, despite being very wealthy, was actually doing a lot of the work himself- always at odd hours, like midnight during a work week, or at 6 A.M. on a Saturday or Sunday. The building had a no noise/construction on nights and weekends policy, but everyone was afraid to call Evil Atso on it. Except me. Our bedroom was directly below the room he was renovating and we would often awaken to the sound of jackhammers, literally right above our beds.

At first, I complained to Blagoj and Nikola, who were supposed to enforce such matters, but they were terrified of him.

“He has a lot of money,” Nikola said. “He can do whatever he wants.”

But as an American, I simply couldn’t accept that sort of grim fatalism. No, we Americans think that we can confront any problem, any nuisance, while people in other countries, like Macedonia, just learn to cope.

The first few times I confronted him, I was pretty civil, but that approach didn’t work, so one early weekend morning, when he was jackhammering away above our heads, I went up to his apartment building carrying a big old ghetto-blaster with a Metallica c.d. in it. After I knocked, the noise ceased and he let me in. Rather than start in with my usual complaints, I simply hit play and held up the ghetto-blaster with both arms outstretched just inches from his fat, villainous-looking face. The volume was all the way up and the angry words to “Sad But True” came spilling forth, half distorted, impossible to avoid.

He thought I was nuts and told me that he’d “break my neck” if I came back up to his apartment again. The disturbances continued for a couple more weeks and then, eventually, did cease. All along, the Macedonians had been right. There was no point in going postal over some lost sleep.

Read more from A Traveler in the Foreign Service here.

Photos via Flickr, Todd Huffman, blhphotography, Wonderlane, and B Rosen.

Discovering the wonders of Turkey through photos

Turkey is a historical country filled with culture, beauty, and natural wonders. In fact, there are many interesting facts that many people may not know that help add to the enchantment and splendor of the country, like the fact that the world’s oldest known human settlement can be found in Turkey, two of the seven Wonders of the Ancient World were located in Turkey, and the seven churches cited in the Book of Revelation all resided in Turkey. With such a unique past, it’s not surprising that the country holds so many spectacular and amazing sites. Wander inside the Blue Mosque, an enormous complex that was built from 1609-1616, trek through the unworldly Cappadocia region, or check out the ruins in Ephesus, where the Temple of Artemis stands, once one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World.

To explore the wonders of Turkey for yourself through photos, check out the gallery below.

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Exciting hotel packages for springtime travelers

Wondering where you should travel this spring? Take advantage of one of these season-inspired packages and enjoy fun activities in great locations for a discounted price.

De L’Europe
Amsterdam, Netherlands

The city of Amsterdam is well-known for its flower markets, lush gardens, and picturesque parks. To help visitors experience the natural beauty of the city, De L’Europe is featuring an Enchanted Gardens package from March 22-May 20, 2012. The package includes accommodations in the spacious Deluxe Room, breakfast for two each morning, and two tickets along with an all-inclusive guide to the Keukenhof, where myriad flora and fauna displays will be featured as well as over 7 million flowers including hundreds of tulip varieties.

Packages start at $595 per night based on double occupancy. Call +31 20 531 17 77 or click here to book. Troia Design Hotel
Troia, Portugal

The Troia Design Hotel is located on a picturesque peninsula on a nature reserve about an hour away from Lisbon. This spring, guests of the hotel can custom create their own packages to experience the great outdoors. Simply give your dates of travel and choose from a variety of activities, like kite surfing, diving, wine tasting, horseback riding, dolphin watching, rock climbing, visiting ancient ruins, bird watching, relaxing on the beach, indulging in the spa, scuba diving, and exploring surrounding castles.

Package rates vary depending on length of stay and activities chosen. Click here to custom create your spring package.

La Tavola Marche
Le Marche, Italy

La Tavola Marche is an organic farm, inn, and cooking school all in one. From March 29-April 2, 2012, the property is hosting a Cooking with Spring’s Wild Edibles package where guests can experience cooking and savoring the flavors of the season. The package includes four nights of accommodation, daily breakfasts, a guided wild edible walk, two half-day cooking classes as well as an apron and cookbook to keep, two wine-enhanced meals, and a five course dinner.

Packages are $641 per person based on double occupancy. Click here to book.

Alisal Guest Ranch and Resort
Solvang, California

The Alisal Guest Ranch and Resort is a romantic, “old-west” accommodation located in the picturesque Santa Barbara Wine Country. The property is also home to a 100-acre lake that makes for a popular fly-fishing retreat, especially with all of the Northern Strain Large Mouth Bass. This spring, the ranch is helping guests experience this relaxing past time by offering a Alisal Anglers’ Package for Two. The promotion includes a two night stay in one of the property’s deluxe accommodations, a welcome basket with fruit, cheese, wine, crackers, and fishing lures, three meals per day, an Alisal Lake hat, a $100 credit for a guided fishing trip for two, and all taxes and fees.

Packages start at $1,295 for two nights for two people. Call 1-888-4-ALISAL or e-mail reservations@alisal.com.

The Liaison Capitol Hill, an Affinia Hotel
Washington, D.C.

In 1912, Japan gave Washington, D.C., 3,000 cherry trees which grew into a beautiful icon for the nation’s capital. From March 20 to April 27, 2012, the National Cherry Blossom Festival will take place, marking the 100 year anniversary of the gift. To help celebrate, The Liaison Capitol Hill, an Affinia Hotel is featuring a Cherry Blossom Getaway from March 22-April 22. The package includes self-customized accommodations via My Affinia, a commemorative cherry tree branch, picnic treats from Art and Soul, chocolates inspired by cherry blossoms from Artisan Confections, and two metro passes.

Packages start at $199 per night. Call 1-866-246-2203 and mention promotional code CHER12 or click here to book.

Wolcott Hotel
New York, NY

The Wolcott Hotel is a comfortable and cozy 100-year old accommodation located near Murray Hill. It’s also in close proximity to the Empire State Building and the beloved Macy’s in Herald Square. To help guests enjoy the beauty of spring in New York, the property is lowering its rates for the season as well as inviting guests to enjoy the annual Macy’s Flower Show with free entry and a guided tour of the flower towers and floral decor.

Rates start at $150 per night. Call 212-268-2900 or click here to book.

Sunset Beach Resorts Spa & Waterpark
Montego Bay, Jamaica

Sunset Beach Resorts Spa & Waterpark is an all-inclusive beachfront property with lush gardens, a relaxing spa, and a thrill-filled waterpark. To help celebrate the coming of the warm weather, the resort is offering a Spring Madness promotion which includes beach games, pool parties, a bonfire experience, free transfers to Margaritaville, and 15% off all spa services.

Promotion rates start at $152.75 per person per night based on double occupancy. The promotion is valid for travel through April 13, 2012. Call 877-734-3486 to book.

CuisinArt Golf Resort & Spa
Anguilla, British West Indies

CuisinArt Golf Resort & Spa is a 5-star resort that features something for everyone, including a luxurious spa, expansive golf course, hydroponic farm, and fusion-style restaurants. In order to help their guests say goodbye to winter and welcome the changing of the seasons, the property is featuring a Tee Up & Revive package, which includes five nights of accommodation in a beachfront suite, two 50-minute spa treatments or a couples’ massage, three rounds of golf, use of tennis courts and fitness center, daily breakfast, lunch for two at Cafe Mediterraneo, dinner for two at Le Bistro at Santorini, airport/ferry pickup, and the use of non-motorized water sports.

Packages start at $5,255 based on double occupancy from now until April 13, 2012. Call 264-498-5602 to book.

Italy’s Battle of the Oranges

Even before Filippo Prior rides into the ancient piazza on the back of a horse-drawn carriage, he feels the giddy adrenalin rush of battle and the unnerving fear that comes with the knowledge that he and his teammates are about to get pelted with hundreds of cold, hard oranges.

“You hear the roar of the crowd, people screaming before you enter the piazza,” says Prior, a 21-year old member of the Cavalry of the Tricolore, a carriage team which competes in Italy’s annual Battle of the Oranges, a pre-Lenten carnival in Ivrea, near Turin. “It’s scary. You have a helmet but you can’t see anything because oranges are flying at you from all angles.”

The Battaglia delle Arance is a three-day orgy of orange-throwing insanity that is part of an ancient six-day carnival that attracts some 100,000 spectators and 4,000 participants to the small northern Italian city of Ivrea each February. The event, which begins today, appears to be unregulated mayhem but it’s actually highly structured and has deep historical significance.

The carnival commemorates a 12th century rebellion that was sparked by Violletta, a commoner who cut off the head of a tyrannical lord who tried to enforce the custom of taking her virginity on her wedding night. For centuries, carnivals-goers in the town threw beans at each other because feudal lords used to bestow two pots of them per year on poor people in the town. The bean-throwing was meant to signify their disdain for the handouts, but was also good fun.

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But in the mid-nineteenth century, the tradition gradually changed as young women adopted the custom of standing on balconies and pelting boys they fancied from above with oranges. If the boys liked their attacker, they returned fire. These days, the city trucks in 57,000 crates, or 400 tons worth of oranges from Southern Italy that would otherwise be thrown away for use in the battle.

Dozens of carriage teams on horse-drawn carts, signifying the tyrant’s guards, compete against nine “foot” teams, representing the rebellious commoners. The carriage players are completely surrounded and outnumbered, so these participants have to be either very brave, or very pazo (crazy), preferably both.

“On the wagon, you have only eight people and you are throwing oranges against 400-500 people at a time- you are completely under siege,” says Prior, an Ivrea native who has been competing in the battle since he was 12. “You get hit everywhere- on the helmet, the arms, the chest, your hands.”
According to Prior, each carriage player competes for just one of the three days in the battle due the vicious nature of the combat.

“The next day your arms are purple- completely covered in bruises from getting hit so many times,” he says. “There is no way you could do all three days.”

The local authorities set up first aid tents around the five piazzas used for the event, each one is “defended” by a different foot team. The organizers say that no one has ever suffered a severe injury and some view getting a black eye or a bruise on the face as a badge of courage. Spectators wear red berets to signify themselves as non-combatants but still get hit with stray fire. The splattered oranges and horse droppings create a colossal mess that’s eventually cleaned up by a team of 100 workers.

On Fat Tuesday, a team of judges give awards to the foot and carriage teams based upon their throwing ability, costumes and adherence to rules, such as not hitting the horses with oranges. The festival concludes with a huge procession, which culminates with a likeness of a sword-weilding Violetta presiding over a burning scarlo, a pole covered in heather and juniper bushes. The crowd goes wild, cheering for the scarlo to burn as quickly as possible. A quick burn is an omen that the coming year will be a good one; a slow burn means trouble is on the way.

The teams have been together for decades, but foreign visitors are welcome to join if they pay a registration fee. But Prior has a word of advice for newcomers.

“Definitely wear old clothes and shoes, because all your things will be ruined.”

Photos courtesy of Torino Tourism– via Marco Leonardi.

Souvenirs: Anatomy of a prized possession from the road

Souvenirs are difficult for travel writers. We travel too often to be slapdash with souvenir selection, for one. Some frequent travelers focus on a particular thing: snow globes, pens, local magazines, liqueur, rugs, candy.

Others ignore the self entirely and redirect the impulse, choosing to make souvenir purchases for their friends, family, and neighbors.

Me? I like beach towels. I’m picky, mind you. Few make it into my collection. Those that do, however, are true prized possessions.

As souvenirs go, beach towels are extremely useful. They can do service as standard towels when bath towels are not available. They are great for beach runs in the position of reserve towel. (Who wants to dry off with a sandy towel?) And they can be washed and dried quickly and used over and over again.

I’ve got some doozies. There’s the grotesque print of the Titanic movie poster on a beach towel I bought in Croatia in 1998. It’s held up remarkably well, despite the thinness of its material. The likenesses of Kate Winslet and Leonardo DiCaprio are barely recognizable, their skin tones inaccurately flan-like in a loveably inarguable instance of copyright infringement. And now, almost 15 years after Titanic hit theaters, it’s also got an undeniable near-retro cache. Bonus.

There’s another beach towel in my collection from the Balkans, purchased several years later, an enormous beach towel patterned with a replica of the €500 bill in all of its pink and purple glory. I’ve never held a €500 bill in my hands, but I can relax upon a blown-up version of it, even if a French friend once pronounced it “kitsch” with a sniff.

And then there’s the crowning glory of my beach towel collection, a yellow and red number with the slogan “Wipe out in Guam” in a Flintstones-like font above a figure of a hapless purple-skinned surfer sailing through the air.

The thing is, I’ve never been to Guam.

I bought the towel on Anegada in the British Virgin Islands, an island I visited with my high school friend Mike. We stayed in a cheap motel without beach towels. Finding ourselves on a perfect beach island without beach towels, we promptly headed to the nearest store to rectify the situation. Sorting through a stack of BVI-specific towels, we found a handful of specimens clearly supposed to have been included in a shipment to Guam. We both snapped one up, to the marked surprise of the shop owner.

The material of the towel is thin but wiry, almost viscous. Structurally speaking, it’s not a great towel. But it’s got a back story and an in-built hilarity. What more does a souvenir need?