Hiking, Drugs And Inca History In Cajas National Park, Ecuador

by Jessica Festa on

Cajas National Park outside of Cuenca, Ecuador, is an idyllic and peaceful park with five ecosystems, over 150 bird species and many exceptional features. For example, Cajas has one of the highest densities of lakes in the world, and is also home to the Quinoa Forest, the world’s highest woodland at 13,124 feet. This area is also full of legends and myths from Inca times. Likewise, the park is a perfect example of an ice age park, as the area was created by glaciers. Cajas National Park is such a unique natural place, it is currently a candidate to be named a World Heritage Natural Site by UNESCO.

During a tour with Gray Line Ecuador, I got the chance to explore the park’s primary cloud forest, the lowest elevation area of the park at 10,171 feet and the Quinoa Forest. I also got to learn about Andean medicine and drugs, trace Inca history and take in great views of jagged mountains and crystal lakes.

For a better idea of the experience, check out the gallery below.

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A Budget-Friendly Wellness Retreat In Ecuador’s ‘Valley of Longevity’

by Jessica Festa on

As soon as you step off the bus into Vilcabamba in Ecuador, you’ll be amazed at how rural and small the town feels. Surrounded by the Andes Mountains and lush valleys, Vilcabamba is a tranquil place where you go to clear your mind and get away. Upon closer inspection, however, you’ll realize that many others had the same idea – but never left.

Valley Of Longevity

Vilcabamba is known as the “Valley of Longevity.” It is said that it’s common for residents to live past 100 years old, sometimes even over 120. That’s why, while the town may seem like an off-the-beaten-path locale where nobody would speak English, a lot do. In fact, many people who live in Vilcabamba are backpackers and senior citizens who’ve come to reap the benefits of the healthy region. And for travelers who enjoy nature and holistic healing but don’t want to spend a lot of money on a retreat, Vilcabamba can provide a worthwhile experience for even the most frugal visitor.

There are various theories as to why people in Vilcabamba live so long. One thought is the lifestyle of the people. Locals in Vilcabamba stay active until they die, as they live off the land. Moreover, the fruits and vegetables from the area are high in anti-oxidants, and all foods are eaten fresh. Walking through the region, you’ll find an abundance of berries, apples, oranges, avocados, potatoes, rice and other nutritious foods. There is also the drinkable mineral water that flows from up in the mountains, and contains curative properties like preventing clogged arteries. Other factors like a laid-back culture, pure air, easy access to natural medicines and consistently good weather that doesn’t stress the body are also said to help people live a long life of wellness.No matter what the reason, the area is a great place to take a healthy and budget-friendly retreat.

Hosteria Izhcayluma

Most travelers, both young and old, stay at Hosteria Izhcayluma. It offers rustic, incense-scented dorms for $10 a night for backpackers, as well as cabanas and private rooms from $25 to $56 for more upscale travelers. Furthermore, the property is set among colorful gardens and lush vegetation, even providing leisurely hikes onsite. An inclusive and nutritious breakfast buffet, expansive pool and luxurious, yet affordable, spa add to the feeling you’re doing something good for yourself. For example, I purchased a 90-minute spa package that included a hair treatment, facial and reiki session for $24. Moreover, I loved enjoying fresh fruit and whole-grain bread in the morning in the hotel’s mountainside restaurant, which provided excellent Andes and cloud forest views. Cabs from here into the town center are $1.

Hiking

Vilcabamba has numerous options for hiking, and visitors will be able to do short two-hour hikes or full-day excursions for eight hours. One easy but beautiful trek you can try is the “Chaupi Loop,” which provides sweeping views of the Vilcabamba River and Chaupi Valley. Likewise, halfway through the hike you pass through the Chaupi Village where you’ll get the chance to interact with locals.

You can access the trailhead a mile downhill from Hosteria Izhcayluma, right after you pass the small village of Los Huilcos. Veer left on the dirt road to follow a small canal of water. You’ll take this for a while, and when the dirt road ends, continue following the canal until you get to an iron gate on your left. Here, you’ll turn right down a wide path. Pass a dirt road and small bus station on your left, cross the dirt road and continue straight down to cross a footbridge over the river. After you pass Chaupi Village, follow the dirt road back to the paved road. Then turn right, over a concrete bridge and through the “entrance gate of Vilcabamba” to end in the town center.

There’s also a really interesting “Forgotten Road Trail.” This hike lasts about eight hours and takes you through the once-main road connecting two villages. The road collapsed over a decade ago, and is now only accessible by walking. It begins in a riverbed, ascending after one hour to offer excellent views of the Quinara Valley. The highlight of the trek, however, is passing through Tumianuma Village, an area rarely visited by tourists. Here, you’ll also be able to swim in the Piscobamba River. You can access the riverbed trailhead by veering left before the rock quarry, located downhill from Hosteria Izhcayluma.

For those who love bird watching and are interested in exploring the cloud forest, Podocarpus National Park offers numerous hikes, from 30-minutes to longer two-day treks. It’s $10 to enter, and costs $15 each way by taxi.

Other hikes include the Mandango Loop, the San Jose Trail, the Waterfall Hike and the Rumi Wilco Nature Reserve. The hotel can give you maps and instructions for each. All are worthwhile; however, proceed with caution during the Mandango Loop and try to go with a big group or guide. There have been incidents of robbery in this area.

By Horse And Bike

Horseback riding is extremely popular here, as is riding bikes. Walking around the town center, you’ll see numerous agencies offering rides and grooming their horses. You’ll be able to ride over cliffs, through valleys and to majestic waterfalls. Basically any destination you have in mind will be possible to visit on horseback or bike.

Meditation, Yoga And Beauty

Walk around the town center, and you’ll see numerous message boards advertising yoga, meditation and other holistic experiences. Along with Hosteria Izhcayluma for spa treatments and reiki, there’s a place in the town square right next to the popular Natural Yogurt Cafe that offers very cheap beauty and spa treatments, mostly for under $7. Moreover, Madre Tierra Resort and Spa offers an eco-friendly approach to wellness and often advertises specials and events on the town’s message boards.

For Yoga, head to the Community Cultural Center on the corner of Agua de Hierro and La Paz streets. Here you’ll be able to choose from an array of levels, and take a two-hour class for just $3. Furthermore, the Lunar Loft, also known as Acahai’s Place, offers yoga classes for $5. And if you’re in town this August, there will be a yoga retreat with hiking and other wellness activities.

If you’re looking to enjoy some meditation, there is a center on the edge of town called the Centro de Meditacion (CMV). It’s a bi-lingual Buddhist meditation center, and most classes are in English unless someone needs help in Spanish. Moreover, Chakana Gallery often hosts meditation workshops for a small fee. You can email greenberg.cj@gmail.com to find out more information.

Food

Even around the main square of town, much of the food in Vilcabamba is cheap. I ate at a place right in the square called “La Esquina,” and for $2 at lunchtime you can get a tall glass of pineapple juice, a hearty bowl of chicken and bean soup and a heaping plate of rice and chicken, among other entree options. There are also some excellent organic and juice bar options, such as Natural Yogurt Cafe. While you can get yogurt and refreshing treats here, they also sell meal-type food. I recommend trying one of their sweet or savory crepes, most for under $3. For a truly healthy dining experience, you should also checkout Madre Tierra Eco Resort, where you can eat gourmet organic meals while lounging among fruit trees and staring off into the Andes.

Andean Medicine

As Vilcabamba was once thought to be a place where Incan royalty went to relax, one unique activity you may be interested in trying is being lead into the mountains to participate in an Andean medicine ceremony. There is a local named Santiago, who has studied the topic and takes people up into the mountains for spiritual, holistic healing. You can go to him if you’re sick, or simply if there’s something in your life you wish to make better. To find him, visit the turquoise “joyeria” in the main square (shown right), next to Sambuca Cafe. Just note that many times when “Andean” or “traditional” medicine ceremonies are offered, there is often Peyote-like cactus concoctions involved. This is definitely not for everyone, and if you try it, be prepared for intense and often undesirable reactions and hallucinations.

The World Of The Great Gatsby: Long Island’s Gold Coast

by Jessica Marati on

The official trailer for Baz Luhrmann’s new film adaptation of “The Great Gatsby” was released this week, inciting nostalgia across the Internet for the passion, parties and Prohibition-fueled recklessness of 1920s-era New York City. The film doesn’t come out until Christmas but if you’re hankering for a preview, try visiting Long Island‘s Gold Coast, where F. Scott Fitzgerald lived, wrote and based his famous novel.

Geographically located on the North Shore of Long Island, the Gold Coast’s grand mansions and landscaped gardens beckon visitors to explore the lives of the magnates and tycoons that called them home. Former inhabitants include familiar names like the Vanderbilts, Roosevelts, Whitneys and Pratts, and nearly all of the estates are open to the public throughout the summer.

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One Gold Coast must-see is Old Westbury Gardens, a traditional English manor home that you’ll recognize from films like “The Age of Innocence” and “Cruel Intentions.” Built in 1906, the estate was once inhabited by financier John S. Phipps, who outfitted it with lavish furnishings and artwork. Guests are welcome to tour the home’s interior or stroll around the estate’s rose gardens, walled gardens and pond.

The Gold Coast’s residents weren’t all as traditional as the Phipps. A trip to the Suffolk County Vanderbilt Museum reveals the eclectic nature of former inhabitant William K. Vanderbilt II. The 43-acre complex includes a marine museum, seaplane hangar, natural history habitats and a wide array of quirky ethnographic objects. The on-site planetarium is currently under construction, but it is expected to be one of the most advanced in the country once it is completed.

And if you’re a true literature geek, you can’t miss the Hempstead House or Falaise Mansion in Sands Point, a part of Long Island that Fitzgerald referred to as the “East Egg” in “The Great Gatsby.” Both homes are surrounded by wildlife, nature trails and picturesque spots that are perfect for setting out a picnic blanket and giving the classic novel a re-read.

Everest Encounter Possible A Number Of Ways

by Chris Owen on
Climbing Mt. Everest is often a lifetime achievement for many travelers. Each spring, some of the most adventurous, daring and physically fit among us attempt the risky undertaking. But summiting is not the only way to experience the highest peak on the planet. One eco-travel company suggests Everest travel strategies that can considerably lower the danger, cost, time or exertion required of summit-focused mountaineers.

“Seeing Everest from any perspective is a thrill,” JOURNEYS International founder Dr. Will Weber said in his blog recently, outlining 6 strategies for a personal Everest encounter.

1. Trek to the Everest base camp in Nepal. Takes eight days of hiking to reach the pinnacle viewpoint of the peak from an 18,200-foot, non-climbing vantage point.

2. Drive to the north slope of Everest in Tibet. Drive from Lhasa to Kathmandu in five days.

3. Trek to the Arun Valley of East Nepal. 12 days takes travelers to a high ridge between Everest and Kangchenjunga where they will have breathtaking views of four of the five highest mountains in the world.

4. Fly the Everest Flightseeing trip from Kathmandu. A comfortable pressurized aircraft virtually guarantees a peak-level view of Everest.

5. Fly on commercial, scheduled jet aircraft service between Kathmandu and Paro, Bhutan; Lhasa, Tibet; or Bangkok, Thailand. Odds are the plane will fly right over Everest but “bring a peak profile image to identify the mountain for yourself and your seatmates,” says Weber. “Views are brief and usually only available on one side of the plane.”

6. Hire a helicopter from Kathmandu. Fly to the Khumbu area of Nepal, have tea on the veranda of the Everest View Hotel, which offers a superb view of Everest, and fly back an hour later. “By several measures the experience will be astounding, but it is one of the more costly options.”

See more on these six strategies at the JOURNEYS International blog.

Flickr photo by Se7en Summits

Petra: Beyond The Treasury

by Kraig Becker on

Without a doubt the most famous destination in the entire country of Jordan is Petra. Designated a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1985, Petra is well known for its impressively detailed structures that are carved directly into the sandstone rock faces that are so prevalent throughout the area. The most famous of those structures is a building known as the Treasury, which has become very well known to travelers across the globe. Photos of the Treasury have become so iconic in fact that many people now mistakenly believe that it is Petra. But in reality the site is a vast complex of tombs, temples and other structures that make up an ancient city, of which the Treasury simply marks the entrance.

The origins of Petra can be traced back to the 6th century B.C., when a formerly nomadic tribe known as the Nabataeans decided to occupy the site and make it their capital. The narrow canyons that lead into the place made it easy to defend and its relatively central location was important to their plans of establishing a trade-empire. Several large and important caravan routes passed through the region and over the centuries the Nabataeans managed to leverage their geographical position into becoming major players in the silk and spice trade. As their wealth grew, so too did Petra.

Visitors to the site today must still navigate a long and twisting canyon, known as the Siq, just to arrive at the entrance to Petra. Walking that narrow gorge offers few clues to what awaits ahead, although several basic structures can still be spotted carved into the rock. Perhaps most noticeable are the two stone channels that run along portions of the canyon walls. Those channels were originally used to collect fresh water and deliver it to the city, helping to provide a steady supply for its citizens.Running about a kilometer in length, the Siq unexpectedly ends in dramatic fashion. The narrow gorge suddenly gives way to a much larger canyon with the Treasury prominently on display in the middle. Visitors are immediately struck by that structure’s impressive features, which include a massive open doorway, multiple columns and intricate stonework. Those carvings reveal the influence of a number of cultures, including the Romans, Greeks and Egyptians, each of which were important trading partners of the Nabataeans.

As you can imagine, this is indeed an amazing and humbling sight that seldom fails to leave visitors in awe of what the Nabataeans have built. If those visitors were to linger in that spot for a time and then simply turn around and hike back through the Siq, I have no doubt that they would leave Petra completely satisfied with their visit. If they were to do that, however, they would also miss out on dozens of other wonders that are contained within the city, most of which are unknown to travelers before they arrive.

Just to the right of the Treasury lies another passage that turns downward into a widening valley below. Broader than the Siq, this canyon was a more prominent road that was once used by the citizens of Petra as they went about their daily lives. Walking that road gradually reveals the true breadth of the place, with dozens of tombs, residences, a Roman temple and amphitheater and numerous other structures being revealed. Those buildings are all carved out of sandstone and vary widely in their condition. None are nearly as well preserved as the Treasury, but most have the added benefit of allowing visitors to actually enter the buildings and explore the interiors as well.

Surprisingly enough, most of Petra is open for visitors to walk through, with ancient staircases providing access to structures that were carved out of rock on some of the higher plateaus. On busy days you’ll find that those areas are teeming with visitors who meander in and out of the buildings as they admire the architecture and engineering that has allowed most of them to stand for more than 2000 years. For history buffs in particular, it is a real treat to be able to get so close to these monuments.

Exploring those places is definitely interesting and can absorb the better part of your day, but the two most impressive locations are not found amongst those ruins and require a bit more effort to reach. The first of these sites is known as the High Place of Sacrifice and as the name implies, you’ll have to do a bit of climbing (not to mention sacrificing!) just to get to it. Accessing the sacred place requires a hike up the more than 700 steps but those who make the effort are rewarded with a fantastic view of the entire city. From the High Place of Sacrifice visitors will get a true sense of the size and scope of Petra and gain an even deeper appreciation of what the Nabataeans accomplished there.

Even more impressive, however, is the Monastery, a building that more than rivals the Treasury in size and grandeur. Built upon a high plateau, visitors to this wonder must first negotiate a climb of more than 900 steps. Those that survive the hike will be treated not only to an amazingly large and well-preserved structure, but some of the most spectacular views in all of Jordan. There are several scenic overlooks near the Monastery itself and they are worth the effort alone. The fact that Petra has saved its most impressive secret for last is simply icing on the cake.

Petra is one of those destinations that many people feel they know long before they ever arrive. It has served as the backdrop for countless films, television shows and books, and has even been named one of the New Seven Wonders of the World. But even knowing all of that I was unprepared for what I found when I visited the place. It was far larger, and grander, than I had ever imagined and it is one of those rare places that exceeds expectations.

If you plan to visit Jordan, then without question Petra has to be on your itinerary. If you have the time and flexibility in your schedule, then I would recommend purchasing the two-day pass. It costs just $5 more and allows you to explore at a more leisurely pace. I’d also recommend that you plan on arriving to the site as soon as it opens at 6 a.m. The solitude that it provides makes for an even more magical experience.