Tomoca: the best little coffee house in Africa


Ethiopia has a lot of great attractions–castles, medieval cities, even werehyenas–yet the thing visitors rave about the most is the coffee.

And why not? Coffee was discovered in Ethiopia. Legend has it that long ago a boy was tending his flock and saw his goats eating unfamiliar berries off a bush. Soon they were dancing around and looking happy. The boy brought some of the berries home to his mother and the rest, as they say, is history. The same story is told about the discovery of the narcotic plant qat.

Most people arrive in the capital Addis Ababa first, and this is the place to try Ethiopian cafe culture at its best. There are hundreds of cafes throughout town, from chic Italian-style places to little roadside stands. In Ethiopian markets you’ll often see women carrying around a thermos and a few battered cups, selling a shot of coffee for two birr (12 cents). No matter where you buy it, Ethiopian coffee is always rich and strong. If you’re lucky, you’ll get invited to a private home and be treated to an Ethiopian coffee ceremony.

My personal favorite cafe in Addis, and the favorite of many locals, is Tomoca. They’ve been serving it up since 1953. Many Ethiopian businessmen from nearby Churchill Avenue come here for a pick-me-up, and more relaxed patrons will read a newspaper or watch BBC News on the TV. It’s certainly on the tourist map, so if you want to pretend you’re the only foreigner in town, this place isn’t for you. The coffee is great, though, and they sell vacuum-sealed bags of beans, both ground and unground, for you to take home. Any time I’m in Addis I load up on a couple of kilos.

Tomoca, like most Ethiopian cafes, has a friendly atmosphere and is a good place to meet Ethiopians and practice a bit of Amharic. To get you started: buna means “coffee”, buna bet means “cafe”, and betam konjo means “very good”! You’ll be saying that last phrase a lot.

So give Tomoca and the other cafes in Addis a try, and if you want to explore something stronger, check out this post on Ethiopian alcohol.

Don’t miss the rest of my series: Harar, Ethiopia: Two months in Africa’s city of Saints.

Coming up next: Ten (more) Random Observations about Ethiopia!

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Top 20 least sexist countries in the world

Have you ever wondered which countries are the least sexist in the world?

The Global Gender Gap report calculates such a thing. The study chronicles gender disparities and progress for rights across the sexes in several countries. It essentially gauges the treatment of women using various data points including educational attainment, health, and political empowerment. The study encompasses life in all types of cultural environments and provides a glimpse into some of the most and least sexist countries on the planet. For 2011, 134 countries were studied.

Many of the top countries for equal rights and opportunities across the sexes are European. Also, two African countries make the top twenty, South Africa and landlocked Lethoso – a small country bordered entirely by South Africa. Aside from those two countries though, African nations dominate the bottom quarter with several entrants from the Middle East as well. Iceland takes top honors at number one and is followed by three of its Nordic brethren in the ensuing spots.

Have you ever experienced sexism while traveling? Check out the full report here.

20. Canada
19. United States
18. Latvia
17. Netherlands
16. Sri Lanka
15. United Kingdom
14. Belgium
13. Germany
12. South Africa
11. Spain
10. Switzerland
9. Philippines
8. Lesotho
7. Denmark
6. Ireland
5. New Zealand
4. Sweden
3. Finland
2. Norway
1. Iceland

And the seven worst countries in the study:

7. Benin
6. Saudi Arabia
5. Côte d’Ivoire
4. Mali
3. Pakistan
2. Chad
1. Yemen

The Global Gender Gap Report 2010

Summer Travel: How to plan an African safari

With the summer holiday season just around the corner, it’s never too early to start planning your escape from the office. Whether you’re interested in jetting off to a foreign locale, or exploring your own neighborhood during a ‘stay-cation,’ the summer holiday season is an opportunity to break from the norm and take advantage of the favorable weather.

Of course, we at Gadling are all about encouraging readers to push the travel envelope and seek out the unconventional. There is absolutely nothing wrong with kicking back in an all-inclusive resort for a week – and trust us, we’ve been known to do that from time to time! But the most rewarding travel experiences generally come from those that require a bit more forward planning.

On that note, this post is all about how to plan an African safari. Rather than celebrating exotic wildlife and pristine parks, we’re going to focus on the nitty-gritty details. From composing an itinerary and selecting an operator to setting a budget and knowing what to expect, we hope to educate and inform while being clear, concise and encouraging.So why safari? Why now?

Safari success is heavily dependent on rainfall – and by extension, availability of water. From March to May, the long rains descend on East and Southern Africa, flooding rivers, filling streams and topping-up reservoirs. Game animals are free to disperse themselves throughout the bush, which can make spotting them a difficult proposition.

But once the rains subside, East and Southern Africa begin to dry up. Rivers weaken and streams disappear, while remaining groundwater is confined to scattered watering holes. These lifelines support rich concentrations of life, including herds of herbivores, and the carnivorous cats that prey on them.

When it comes to choosing an itinerary, it’s vital that you keep this cycle of life in mind. This is especially true if you aspire to witness the planet’s greatest natural spectacle, namely the Great Wildebeest Migration between Kenya’s Masai Mara and Tanzania’s Serengeti. Exact dates vary, but you should aim to be on the ground sometime between June and August.

A similar event occurs around this time in Botswana’s Chobe National Park. Dwindling water resources force animals to concentrate around the banks of the Chobe River. This allows safari-goers to eschew the classic open-top Land Rover in favor of a pontoon boat. This facilitates up-close and personal viewing of thirsty game animals stopping for a drink, not to mention hippos, crocs and aquatic birds.

Now that we’ve answered the why, let’s move on to the where and who.

To be honest, if it’s your first time on an African safari, you really can’t choose a bad itinerary. The adrenaline rush of seeing Mother Nature in her full glory often supersedes the subtle differences between natural environs. More specifically, this is to say that debating whether or not Tanzania’s Ngorongoro crater is better/worse than South Africa’s Kruger National Park is really not necessary at this stage of the game.

Instead, try to focus on the length and pace of travel, the level of luxury on offer and overall value for your dollar. These three points are of course interrelated, but you don’t have to be a travel pro to parse them out. For instance, cheaper trips often try to squeeze in too many stops. In our experience, you’ll often have better luck spotting safari rarities if you spend three days in one park rather than three days in three parks.

The level of luxury point essentially boils down to whether you want to bush camp, bed down in a tourist lodge or go ‘glamming’ or glamorous camping. The cheapest option appeals primarily to shoestringing backpackers who have time to spare but little padding in their wallets. Tourist lodges are middle of the road options that offer somewhat cookie cutter rooms, buffet dinners, structured activities and fairly reasonable prices.

Glamming can be the subject of its own post. But if money is no object, you can shell out for boutique canvas tents equipped with hot water showers, air-conditioning, proper beds with fine linens and personalized 24/7 butler service. Banquet meals are served on bone china, and accompanied by polished silverware and crystal stemware. All of this takes places out in the open bush surrounded by the full complement of creatures.

In terms of value for your dollar, this is where you really need to go line-by-line and understand what you’re getting. For example, will you have a private guide, or will you be grouped with other people? Will you be flying between hotels on chartered bush planes, or will you need to travel overland? Are activities (game drives, bush walks, ballooning, etc.) included in the price, or will you be charged extra at the end?

There is a simple solution to all this confusion: call or e-mail as many different tour operators as you can. Once you’ve shopped around, compare prices, consider the pros and cons of each trip and ultimately choose whatever circuit suits you best. There really is no right or wrong way to go on safari, and we’ve personally enjoyed our budget-busting trips just as much as our bare-bones excursions.

Do you think this is the year that you finally get to Africa?

If the answer is yes, then now is the time to get the ball-rolling. Accommodations do fill up during the summer season, so the earlier you reserve, the better. The same goes for plane seats. And, if you haven’t already received the necessary vaccinations (Yellow Fever, Hepatitis, Typhoid, Tetanus, etc.), make an appointment with your doctor as soon as possible.

Any questions that we didn’t answer?? Please feel free to chime in and ask.

** All images are the blogger’s own work **

National Geographic Traveler announces 2011 Tours of a Lifetime

National Geographic Traveler magazine has announced its annual list of their picks for Tours of a Lifetime, selecting 50 fantastic journeys to the far flung corners of the globe. For each of the past six years, Traveler has examined thousands of tours in a variety of categories, including volunteer vacations, family friendly trips, small-ship voyages, and adventure travel. From all of those itineraries, they’ve narrow down their choices to this select group, which represent the absolute best in travel, offering amazing cultural experiences, unique activities, and a commitment to sustainability.

On their website, Traveler has broken down the selected tours into six regions of the world, including Africa, Asia, Central and South America, Europe, North America, and Oceania. By clicking on one of those options, readers are presented with the magazine’s recommendations for the very best tours operating in that area, complete with a brief description, links to the tour operator’s website, and price, which can vary wildly depending on the destination and options.

Amongst the selections for this year’s Tours of a Lifetime are Serengeti bush treks, whitewater paddling in Siberia, and a journey deep into the interior of Guyana. There is a journey along the Inca Trail on horseback and cycling tours of Italy and France, as well an expedition to the South Pole on skis. In short, there is a little something for everyone, depending on their interests and budget.

Since all of these trips are researched and vetted by National Geographic, you can rest assured that all of the tour operators are not only legitimate, but also top tier. These trips were specifically selected because they offer something that is a little out of the norm. Something unique that you can’t generally get anywhere else. I’m pretty sure, even if you think you’ve been everywhere and done everything, you’ll still find something to appeal to you on this list.

[Photo credit: Christian Heeb, laif/Redux]

The worst zoo I ever saw

I feel sorry for my Harari friends.

During my stay in Harar, Ethiopia, they were so hospitable, so eager to ensure I had a 100% positive impression of their city and country. For the most part I did, and I left for the capital Addis Ababa with lots of great things to say about Ethiopia.

They should have warned me not to visit the Lion Zoo in Addis Ababa.

It’s billed as a natural wonder, where you can see rare Ethiopian black-maned lions descended from the pride that was kept in Haile Selassie’s palace. In reality, it’s a sad display of animal cruelty and neglect.

The lions, primates, and other animals are kept in undersized cages with bare concrete floors. They look bored, flabby, resigned. Several of them look sick. Visitors shout at the listless animals or even throw pebbles to get them to move. Some toss packets of chocolate or potato chips to the monkeys and laugh as they tear the packages apart to get to the food inside.

The worst are the lions, proud carnivores, kings of the wilderness, reduced to trapped objects of amusement for bored city dwellers who don’t give a shit about nature. The lions lie around most of the time, doing nothing. Occasionally one will get its feet, shake its dirty mane, take a few steps before realizing there’s nowhere to go, and then sit down with an air of defeat.

The whole place made me feel ill, yet I can’t feel morally superior. I come from a country where people freak out if someone beats a dog but cheer when a Third World country gets carpet bombed. Where a zoo like this would be a national scandal but people eat meat raised on factory farms that make Ethiopia’s Lion Zoo look like a nature reserve. Only vegans can talk about animal cruelty from any moral high ground, and I’m not a vegan. Meat tastes too good.

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But a travesty like this zoo is totally unnecessary. Ethiopia is anxious to promote itself as a tourist destination, a friendly, civilized country where Westerners can feel at home. Well, if it wants to do that, it better do something about the Lion Zoo.

Like shut it down.

So to my Harari friends, I’m sorry. You came close to getting a 100% positive series (well, except for my bumbling around Ethiopia’s Somali region) but it was not to be. I understand Ethiopia has bigger priorities than a few animals in a zoo in Addis Ababa, but if you want to make a positive impression on Western visitors, this place has got to go.

Don’t miss the rest of my series: Harar, Ethiopia: Two months in Africa’s city of Saints.

Coming up next: Tomoca: the best little coffeehouse in Africa!