Chinese Buffet – Part 13: Darling Dumplings

by Kelly Amabile on

Chinese Buffet is a month-long series that chronicles the travels of an American woman who visited China for the first time in July 2007.

Going out to eat dumplings was a highlight of my visit to Shanghai. Although my pal Beth has been unable to stomach the taste of most Chinese cuisine during her pregnancy, the aversion has not affected her ability to toss back some steamed dumplings every few days. So that’s exactly what we did.

The first place we went for dumplings was Nan Xiang, a center-city shrine to the doughy little wonders. This restaurant is THE place to go to sample typical Shanghainese steamed buns. There are three floors, and the menu prices go up with each level. There’s also a take out window on the ground floor. We walked up one flight to the dining room that serves the cheapest menu.

Since this is a touristy spot, there can sometimes be a bit of a line, but we got lucky both times we visited, waiting no more than ten minutes for a table. Seating is done family style, to keep the hungry crowds moving through the place. We watched the restaurant staff making buns while we waited, and tried to chat with our neighbors at the table.

The dumplings usually come in pork and crab. But what makes this baozi particularly unique is that the meat is swimming in a little pool of liquid. Folks usually take a small bite out of the dumpling (known as xiaolongbao), suck the broth out, then eat the rest of the bun.

Beth taught me an alternative dumpling-eating strategy with one extra step. After taking the first bite to release the liquid…

…it can be easier (and less messy!) to first pour the broth into a spoon…
(which you will probably have to ask them to bring to your table)

…then sip the tasty soup up…

…before finishing the yummy dough ball — all at once or with a few bites. The dough is sticky so it usually stays fixed in the chopsticks quite well:

A trip to Nan Xiang is best paired with a walk across the Bridge of Nine Turnings and a visit to the neighboring Yu Gardens. A stroll through the beautiful grounds is a great way to work off your dumpling meal:

On another dumpling day excursion we also combined dining with sightseeing. We visited Din Tai Fung, a famous chain of dumpling restaurants that originated in Taiwan and now has outposts in several Asian cities and in Los Angeles.

This place is pricier and the wait longer (about 40 minutes), but the dumplings were still delicious. (I’m guessing it’s pretty hard to mess these things up?!) We were seated at a corner table for two — no folks to chat with this time:

I was happy to have the option to dip my dumplings in soy sauce and ginger at this restaurant. The traditional combination is vinegar and ginger, but I prefer the soy sauce, which you won’t find on the table at Nan Xiang. I also ordered a bit of fried rice and one larger bun, just to try something different. But it was basically just a ton more dough to chew through:

To walk off this meal, we strolled through the central stretch of Xintiandi, an open-air public space lined with a mixture of shops and restaurants. The area is well-known because of the shikumens that were renovated to create this old-meets-new development. We took a short spin through the Shikumen Open House, a recreation of a 1920’s era shikumen home. Like the hutongs in Beijing, efforts have been made to preserve the architectural history of these structures:

A history lesson on a full and happy tummy. Not a bad way to see the city.

Of course, I’m really craving a true Shanghainese dumpling as I write this…It is such a simple and perfect culinary creation:

Never again will I look at a Chinese dumpling the same way.

(Ya here that Mom and Dad?! When I get back home we’ve got to go in search of REAL dumplings, okay? No more of those fried ones from the take out menu. I’ve been converted and will attempt to convert you as well :)

Big in Japan: The Myth About Money

by Matthew Firestone on

Let’s start off by dispelling a common myth – are you ready for this?

(I know you’re not going to believe me, but just bare with me for a few moments).

Japan is not astronomically expensive. There – I said it. In fact, compared with most major cities in North America and Europe, I’d argue that it’s a bargain.

Are you still reading this? I fear that I may have already lost most of my audience with such a seemingly absurd statement, but if you’re still reading this post, let me explain.

In March of 2007, the Worldwide Cost of Living survey released by the Economist Group lists Tokyo and Osaka as the 5th and 6th most expensive cities in the world. Truth be told, this year was a marked departure from previous lists in that Tokyo and Osaka weren’t entrenched in the number one and two spots. According to experts (who know way more about economics than I do), this year’s chart topping cities of Oslo, Paris and Copenhagen were given a boost thanks to a strengthening euro and the declining dollar.

So what’s going on here? How can I, in the face of experts, still argue that Japan is a bargain? Bear with me for a few more paragraphs – I’m almost there.

The biggest expense that most Japanese contend with is the soaring price of real estate, which is made all the more absurd by the total lack of developable land. The term ‘shoebox apartment’ has a whole different meaning in Japan, where 100 sq ft is arguably a palace. Indeed, when my Japanese friends first came to the states to stay with my family at our modest – by American standards – house in suburban New Jersey, they seriously thought we were oil moguls.

Assuming you can get over the lack of space, it’s possible to live in a shared apartment in central Tokyo for only a few hundred dollars a month, which pales in comparison to the money my friends pay in New York City, London and San Francisco. Sure, a lot of the buildings in Tokyo are asylum-esque concrete monstrosities built in the 1950s and 1960s (hardly the Golden Age of architectural achievement). But, it’s possible to find some great places out here if you know where to look.

Case in point – I’m currently renting a room in a two-story traditional Japanese house just a few minutes from Shibuya, one of Tokyo’s most fashionable entertainment districts. My room has wooden floors and picture windows, and enough space to put on my writer’s cap on and hammer out this column.

(Next week I’ll go into detail about apartment hunting, and give you some tips on what to look for).

Of course, I haven’t even touched on how affordable it is to eat out in Japan, particularly if you know how to avoid the expensive spots. One of the themes of this feature column is going to be Japan’s unique (to say the least) cuisine, so we’ll return to this issue several times in the near future. And finally, with the world’s best public transportation system, and a bike-riding culture to boot, you don’t need a car to live in Japan, which is a significant savings if you’re moving here from North America.

Are you sold yet? If not, tune in next week for a posting about apartment hunting in Tokyo. And don’t worry – there will be plenty of time to delve into the full culinary spectrum of Japan!

Chinese Buffet – Part 12: Child’s Eye View of China

by Kelly Amabile on
Chinese Buffet is a month-long series that chronicles the travels of an American woman who visited China for the first time in July 2007.


What do you remember from when you were four years old?

Beth and I spoke about this several times during my visit. They moved to China when her son Ryan was just two and a half years old. And now he was about to celebrate his 4th birthday in Shanghai. His passport is almost as thick as those of his parents, full of stamps from visits to Japan, Thailand and South Korea. Around China, he’s been to Beijing, Hainan Island, Xi’an and went on an overnight Yangtze River Cruise too. And of course, he’s well traveled in America as well — from Florida to Boston to California, this little guy has seen a lot.

His mom often wonders about what Ryan will recall from these early adventures. She’s been keeping a scrapbook and collecting tons of photographs, so there will be plenty of reminders to keep the memories alive. But she still wonders, just what will Ryan remember?

He’s able to communicate with Mr. Ding and his ayi in Mandarin — he asks for apple juice, or to go to the park — always using the proper Chinese words. Beth knows these language skills will soon fade, unless she is able to find a way to keep Ryan learning once they are back in the States. Only time will tell. But for right now, the focus is on enjoying China while they are still living there. I loved tagging along, seeing the world through Ryan’s eyes…

One of the first things we all did together was visit the Shanghai Science and Technology Museum to see a 3D Bug movie:

Located in Pudong, the museum is home to several IMAX theaters and a new dinosaur exhibit that is drawing crowds from all over. But these kiddies — Ryan’s playmates from the US and Australia — had already seen the dinosaurs. They were back specifically for the bugs!

The film was in Chinese with no English subtitles — but who needs words when you’ve got enormous creepy bugs on the screen?! I think Ryan prefers dinosaurs and superheros to bugs, and I’d have to agree with him on both counts, but we all had a good time and enjoyed our silly glasses:

For the record – Ryan IS indeed Superman! He wore his cape on several of our Shanghai outings, always drawing stares and giggles. He’d live in that costume if his mom would let him!

But even when not dressed in his superhero gear, Ryan is a crowd-pleaser. Here’s an example of what typically happens when he and his parents go out. While Beth snaps a photo of Ryan and his friend, the young man to her left snaps one as well — a photographic phenomenon that foreigners in China encounter all the time! The locals seem particularly amused by cute little kids like these two:

As Beth and her family prepare to return to the US, she explained to me that she’s been talking to Ryan more and more about being safe around strangers. He’s become very used to this scenario of folks saying hi and asking to take photos with him. There is a celebrity-like status in China for a little guy like him — but it’s something that won’t happen with the same frequency every time they step outside their home back in the States.

Ryan celebrated his fourth birthday during my visit with his family. Here he is again — same superhero, different day — making his big birthday wish. He had a small dinosaur-themed party with only a few of his closest playmates. Many of his expat friends had either recently repatriated or were back home visiting relatives for the summer. The cycle of comings and goings is a constant in this international neighborhood.

It wouldn’t have been a true Chinese birthday party without some authentic “Made in China” gifts — and this one was the winner for sure. Ryan’s ayi bought him this obnoxiously loud egg-laying duck! If Ryan’s mom even allows him to leave the country with this one, it should surely be saved with his other China mementos — the bump-n-go action duck will be fun to pull out and laugh about years from now.

Interspersed with all the wonderful new toys, games and experiences of Ryan’s overseas childhood, Beth makes sure to allow ample opportunity for the activities Ryan loved to do before he moved to China. When he’s not discovering dinosaur bones or fighting off the bad guys, Ryan is given plenty of time to swim — he’s a first-class fish!

And not a fish-out-of-water at all! Ryan’s early exposure to the world has made him a super adaptable and flexible kid. I’m sure that regardless of what he actually remembers from his time in China, the experience of living abroad at such a young age has surely expanded his horizons and taught him lessons that will last a lifetime.

Ryan taught me a thing or two as well. His smile, laughter and sense of curiosity were contagious, and I fed off his energy. Sure, there were moments of pure exhaustion (Auntie Kel needs a rest NOW!), but overall, hanging with this special guy made me feel like a kid all over again.

An awesome feeling indeed.

Thanks buddy! Xie Xie.

Big in Japan: The Beginning

by Matthew Firestone on

I guess the question at hand is simply this: where to begin?

Should I kick off my first real column talking about the 151 rules of sushi etiquette? Or should I instead pontificate on the virtues of a perfectly brewed cup of green tea? Better yet, perhaps I should offer some sort of experiential wisdom for zen seekers the world over? Well, I shall touch on all of these issues at some point in my writings, but alas not today.

On the contrary, I’d like to offer some random musings on one simple question: why Japan?

Whether you’ve lived in Japan for years and are starting to forget your English, or you’re fresh off the plane and are fighting your jet-lag with vending machine coffee, ex-pats inevitably struggle with this simple question. To complicate the matter at hand, Japanese people are fascinated with foreigners in their country, and seem to revel in asking us why we abandoned our Western trappings for a life of bento boxes and Hello Kitty chopsticks.

Truth be told, most of us over here really don’t know why we’re here, and simply rebuff these inquiries with a simple ‘nantonaku‘ or ‘why not?’ Although most Westerners would view this answer as a cop out, the Japanese are far too polite to push the issue. Japan is a land of manners and grace, and people here are extremely adept at reading between the lines and avoiding unnecessary confrontation.

Of course, I guess after several years of on and off living in Japan, I should be able to answer this question. Indeed, if I had a yen for every time my friends and family asked me why I keep coming back here, I’d be able to eat my weight in toro (fatty tuna). Sadly, I’ve yet to come up with a simple and easy answer, though I’ll do my best to try.

One of the joys of traveling is pushing your comfort zone, dealing with culture shock and learning that the world is vastly more complicated that you could have ever managed. From witnessing grinding poverty for the first time to finding yourself on the open road, all of us have a place in our mind that touches us to the core. With that said, no matter how much time I spend over here, Japan never ceases to blow my mind.

Every time I walk down the streets of Tokyo, I feel like a hyperactive ‘kid in a candy shop’ who forgot to take his Ritalin. Japan is bursting at the seams with stimuli, and every time I think I’ve figured it out or seen it all, something inevitably floors me.

Indeed, what other country in the world could bring you consumer goods such as the ‘nipple scarf,’ which keeps you warm while compensating for certain inadequacies? Or, why spend another night alone in bed when you can snuggle up to the ‘hubby pillow,’ which never snores, never complains and always stays on its side of the bed.

I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again. Japan is a weird, wacky and wonderful place. Keep tuning in to ‘Big in Japan‘ – there is plenty more to come.

Chinese Buffet – Part 11: Relocation to Shanghai

by Kelly Amabile on

Chinese Buffet is a month-long series that chronicles the travels of an American woman who visited China for the first time in July 2007.

Now comes what I’ve been calling the Shanghai Shift. After a week on my own in Beijing, dealing with tummy troubles and all the usual ups and downs of solo travel, I had now arrived in a city where I’d be embraced by dear friends and the comforts of home.

And what better way to welcome a weary Italian woman!?!? Beth and Dan, my gracious hosts, picked me up at the Shanghai train station about 9 pm. They had just come from Da Marco, well known in Shanghai for its’ excellent pizza and Italian dishes. And they brought me a doggie bag! After snacking on apples and trail mix for ten hours on the train, this was heaven.

But had I sold out already? Only eight days in China and I’d reverted to familiar comfort food! So soon?!

Ummmm….yeah.

On one hand, it felt a bit strange — like I’d given up on the challenges of independent budget travel too quickly. In Europe, I had gone it alone for months at a time – hostels as my constant home. But this time, after just one week of “roughing it”, I found myself comfy and cool in a spacious Pudong apartment, sipping California wine by candlelight while chatting with two of my best college pals.

I hadn’t given up anything, but my vantage point had certainly changed. I was now going to experience life in China through a completely different lens.

Beth, Dan and their young son Ryan moved to Shanghai in the fall of 2005, signing a contract with Dan’s US-based company to work in China for two years. I was fortunate enough to spend time with them near the end of their stay in Shanghai. By the time this Chinese Buffet series ends next week, they will have repatriated back to the US, where they will switch gears to focus on their next great adventure — baby number two!

Much of what we did the first few days seemed to revolve around finding the right food to eat. With Beth pregnant and my stomach still acting up, we steered clear of adventurous dishes and avoided Chinese food altogether. Unfortunately, Beth and her new bundle had developed quite an aversion to all things Asian. Thank goodness for Carrefour (the obscenely huge grocery store loaded with Western goodies) and Blue Frog, a neighborhood chain with yummy burgers and salads:

After a solid meal, next on the to-do list was a little bit of pampering. Beth suggested an hour foot massage and pedicure to reward my worn-out Great Wall feet. Beijing had given my body a beating, so how could I refuse?

And really, what do best girlfriends do when they get together after not seeing each other for a long time? Beth and I hadn’t done anything like this since I’d been a bridesmaid in her wedding — ten years ago! It was all quite lovely, and seemed such a novelty to me — since we were doing it in China!

Beth, Dan and Ryan live in the Jinqiao Biyun International District, home to a large foreign population. Several shops and restaurants are within walking distance of their apartment (like the funky Starbucks shown above), but unfortunately I visited Shanghai during an intense heat wave — strolls around the neighborhood were an unattractive option.

Thankfully, we could turn to Mr. Ding, the family’s driver, who transports Dan to work and is available to Beth and Ryan also. Have you seen the way folks drive in China? Mr. Ding is the man! He navigates insane intersections with ease, making sure the entire family gets where they need to be — the airport, school, shops. I surely appreciated his air-con car service during my visit too!

And then there is Helen, the ayi. It is very common for foreigners to hire a local Chinese woman to help around the house. It took Beth awhile to get comfortable with the idea, but she eventually connected with this sweet woman who comes to the apartment for a few hours each day. Helen cleans, irons and helps prep meals. She also watches Ryan when Beth and Dan go out.

Both Ding and Helen are wonderful with Ryan, and he is comfortable with both of them as well. He’s learned lots of Chinese words and phrases from them – both Mandarin and Shanghainese, which is the local dialect that Mr. Ding speaks. It was entertaining to watch Ryan interact with them — and vice versa. Tomorrow I’ll look more closely at what life is like for this cute American kid living in China.