Uncornered Market Q&A: Audrey and Dan on Iran

by Alex Robertson Textor on

Uncornered Market is one of the most popular travel blogs out there. A quick gander will demonstrate why this is the case. Audrey Scott and Dan Noll’s labor of love boasts some of the most arresting travel photography around. The subjects the two take on are of broad interest as well–from reflections on cultural traffic to recipes, to reflections on the importance of diplomacy on a personal level, and even to a particular brand of self-help.

Audrey and Dan talk to Gadling hot on the heels of their first visit to the Islamic Republic of Iran with a range of opinions, suggestions, and tips.

Q: Good day, Audrey and Dan. Define your occupations.

A: Storytellers, writers, photographers, world travelers. Mostly, we’re known as the husband-and-wife team behind the travel blog Uncornered Market.

Q: You recently traveled to Iran. Tell us how the trip came about and where you went.

A: Our interest in Iran dates back to 2003 when we befriended Audrey’s Iranian colleagues at Radio Free Europe/Radio Liberty and attended a slideshow presentation from travelers who’d recently returned from Iran. Our curiosity was piqued; we wanted to see for ourselves what the country and people were like, to find an alternative story than what the media tends to portray.

We’ve been on the road for five years and now seemed like the right time to satisfy our curiosity despite the fact that our family and friends thought we were crazy given the current political climate.

Our trip began in Tehran and then made a loop through Hamadan, Kermanshah, Ahvaz, Shiraz, Yazd, Isfahan, Abyaneh, Rasht, Masuleh, Ardebil, and Tabriz. We finished the journey with an Iranian train trip from Tabriz to Istanbul, Turkey, which took two and a half days.

Q: In your interactions with Iranians, did politics ever enter the picture? Did you discuss geopolitics or the actions of the US and Iranian governments with anyone?

A: We never began our conversations on the topic of politics, but particularly after we earned people’s trust, it entered the discussion. Most of the Iranian people we met took issue with their government, its rules, its rhetoric, and its disengagement with the rest of the world. Many would conclude with: “People are good. Politics and governments are bad.”

The impression of America, and especially of the American people, was strikingly and overwhelmingly positive. The Iranians we met wished to engage more with the rest of the world. However, most Iranians we spoke to did not expect change within their own government, and as a result, they were not optimistic that relations between the Iranian and American governments would improve any time soon.

Q: How were you received, generally speaking?

A: Like rock stars. We traveled with a small group of Americans, Australians and a Dane. We were all well received, but as Americans we were often shown special positive attention. Being American got us a lot of handshakes, hugs and invitations to people’s homes.
Q: Did you find yourselves unpacking assumptions made in advance? Did you encounter any surprises along the way?

A: Yes. What we found in Iran – and particularly regarding ordinary Iranian people — was so profoundly different than the prevailing media narrative. Iranian people, as a rule, are kind and are not a bunch of terrorists.

Iranians also actively seek and find ways to circumvent censorship. For example, everyone seems to have Facebook accounts and satellite dishes, both of which are technically banned or blocked.

We were also pleasantly surprised by how often we managed to slip off, walk the streets, and talk to people on our own and how safe and normal it all felt.

Q: What were your favorite places in Iran?

A: Shiraz — like the wine, though they don’t serve wine there anymore. (Iran is a dry country.) The Shirazi people are friendly and the archeological sites (Persepolis, just outside town) and various religious sites like the Pink Mosque and Shah Ceragh Mosque really blew us away with their elaborate and dizzying designs.

We also really enjoyed the Persian Islamic architecture of Esfahan and the Zoroastrian burial sites in Yazd. Throughout the country, bazaars (markets) were fun and served as great places to meet people.

In the north, we were big fans of the ancient Armenian monastery near Jolfa and its ethereal mountain setting.

Q: Do you have any recommendations, logistical or otherwise, for Americans interested in visiting Iran?

A: Three things. First, Americans are required to have a private guide or join a group tour. The tour company will sort your visa paperwork. The visa process involves obtaining an authorization number from the Ministry of Foreign Affairs and then procuring an actual visa from an Iranian consulate. The entire process can take up to two months, so get started early.

Secondly, try not to bite off too much. There’s a ton of Islamic history and pre-Islamic history in Iran, including around ten UNESCO World Heritage sites. But the country is huge, so being selective will help you avoid spending all of your time in transit.

Lastly, always be aware of the context, but don’t be afraid to talk with people on the street.

Q: What’s next for the Uncornered Market duo? (Or should I ask where’s next?)

A: We are in the midst of planning 2012. Israel is near or at the top of the list. We’ve collected numerous invitations from newfound Israeli friends and travel companions. We’d like to see Israel for ourselves, especially after our experiences in other parts of the Middle East.

In addition, Audrey would like to visit Australia, which will be her seventh continent. Japan, Papua New Guinea, and the Balkans are in the conversational mix.

Our 2012 non-travel plans include redesigning our blog and completing several publishing projects. It’s also about time to write that book we keep talking about.

Teen climber Jordan Romero prepares for final Seven Summit

by Kraig Becker on

When we last checked in with teenage mountaineer Jordan Romero, he had just finished climbing Mt. Everest and in the process, setting a record for the youngest person to accomplish that feat. Jordan was 13 at the time, and razor focused on becoming the youngest person to reach the top of the highest mountain on each of the seven continents. Now, a year and a half later, with one mountain still on his list, he is preparing to achieve that goal as well.

Next week, Jordan, now age 15, will leave the U.S. for Antarctica, where he and his father Paul, along with step-mom Karen Lundgren, will attempt to climb Mt. Vinson, the highest peak on the continent. If all goes according to schedule, he’ll arrive in the Antarctic on December 16 and start the climb the following day. Over the following two weeks, Jordan and his team will face brutally cold temperatures, high winds, and the threat of avalanches, all for the chance to stand on the summit of the 16,050-foot mountain. If successful, Romero will become the youngest person to complete the Seven Summits.

Jordan first conceived of the idea of climbing the highest mountains on each of the continents when he saw a mural of the Seven Summits in his elementary school. That was back in 2005, when he was just nine years old. The following year he was off to Africa, where he trekked to the top of Kilimanjaro, which only fueled his desire to climb those mountains. In 2007 he checked Kosciuszko (Australia), Elbrus (Europe), and Aconcagua (South America) off of his list, and summitted Denali (North America) and Carstensz Pyramid (Oceania) in 2008 and 2009 respectively.

Last year, he gained recognition worldwide for his successful climb of Everest, igniting a debate in the mountaineering community in the process. Many climbers began to wonder just how young was too young, which later prompted Nepal and China to set strict age limits, requiring Everest climbers to be at least 18 years old. The move was applauded by many, although some felt that Jordan was proof that young climbers could do well on the world’s tallest mountains.

[Photo courtesy of Jordan Romero]

Five holiday cookies from around the world

by Laurel Miller on

I love good old American iced sugar cookies as much as the next person. Yet there’s a whole world of cookiedom out there, and the holdiays are the best excuse to do a little experimenting.

Whether you prefer your cookies buttery, spiced, crisp, or iced, there’s something to suit your…ahem, taste. Check out the following holiday favorites from around the world.

Springerle
These embossed, biscuit-like German cookies–usually flavored with anise–date back to the 14th century. They’re traditionally made using a wooden or ceramic mold (human figures are a common theme) or a rolling pin decorated with carved-out depressions. Think of them as edible art, especially if you have the talent and patience to ice them.

Shortbread
For butter sluts like me, few things beat a well-made piece of shortbread. True shortbread is Scottish in origin (the recipe we’re most familiar with today–flour, sugar, and butter–is attributed to Mary, Queen of Scots). Because the ingredients were considered luxury goods, shortbread became synonymous with festive occasions, including Christmas.

Shortbread has become ubiquitous throughout the UK, and similar (but inferior, in my humble opinion) cookies are found throughout Scandinavia. What makes good shortbread so special? The quality of the butter is paramount, but also the handling of the dough. Any baked good with a fat content that high is bound to be tasty, but overworking the dough–whether it’s rolled or patted out by hand–ensures a cookie the equivalent of a hockey puck. And I’m a purist: no crystallized sugar or fancy shapes for me, please. Just give me the cookie.

[Photo credits: Flickr user JeMaSiDi]Ma’amoul
These rich, Lebanese semolina cookie/pastry hybrids traditionally have their top half pressed into a decorative mold, while the bottom half is stuffed with a filling of chopped fruit and nuts such as dates, figs, walnuts, pistachios, walnuts, or almonds. Ma’amoul may be round or dome-shaped, or slightly flattened, and are categorically a form of shortbread due to their high fat (butter or shortening) content. They also contain rose and/or orange flower water, which gives them a subtle floral essence.

Ma’amoul are popular in the Levantine cuisine of the Eastern Mediterranean, as well as that of the Arab Persian Gulf states. They’re a frequent site during religious holidays an festivals, including Ramadan and Purim. In Jewish communities, date-filled ma’amoul are a favorite Hanukkah treat.

Mandelbrot
Some liken these twice-baked almond cookies to “Jewish” or “Askenazic” biscotti, and it’s a fairly accurate description. The name comes from the Yiddish for “almond bread.” Like biscotti, they’re shaped into a loaf, sliced, and baked twice to achieve a hard texture. They’re traditionally dunked in tea.

It’s believed that mandelbrot may have found it’s way to medieval Eastern Europe via the significant Jewish population residing in Northern Italy. According to food writer and Jewish cuisine expert Joan Nathan, the durability of the cookies made them a popular Sabbath dessert, because they traveled well via merchants and rabbis. Mandelbrot are also served at Hanukkah, because they’re parve (made with oil, instead of butter, aka dairy).

Melting Moments
Although similar to Mexican Wedding cookies–those tender little shortbread domes dusted with powdered sugar–Melting Moments don’t contain ground nuts (the Latin versions–which have been traced back to medieval Arab culture–always contain ground almonds or other nuts, which were then a delicacy).

I first discovered Melting Moments, which rely upon the addition of cornstarch for their trademark disintegrating quality, while working for a Kiwi chef in London. Charmed by the name, I soon discovered that these Australian/Kiwi cookies are holiday favorites. They’re ridiculously easy to make, consisting primarily of butter, powdered sugar, and flour in addition to the aforementioned cornstarch (called “corn flour” in UK/Aussie recipes). They’re often made as sandwich cookies filled with icing (because you can never have too many Melting Moments).

There are literally dozens of other holiday cookies out there, ranging from the anise-fragranced wafers of the Nordic countries and soft amareti or macarons of Italy, to the spice cookies of Central Europe. An easy affordable gift idea: bake up a batch that correlate to your recipient’s ethnic heritage or favorite/dream vacation spot. Happy holidays!

[Photo credits: ma’amoul, Flickr user àlajulia;melting moment, Flicker user ohdarling]

Australia plans world’s largest marine park

by Grant Martin on

An area the size of Germany and France combined is about to become the world’s largest marine park off of the north-east coast of Australia. Including a broad swath of the Coral Sea (where the Great Barrier Reef currently resides), the massive area is home to some of the most exotic sea creatures in the world as well as several important shipwrecks from World War II.

The protection afforded from the creation of this park will guarantee that the floral, fauna and archaeological species will continue to thrive unhindered by manmade causes, and will almost definitely pave the road for further tourism in the region.

Announced late last week, the Guardian indicates neither name nor official boundaries for the park as of yet. The government of Australia will release further deals within ninety days.
Superlatives are a bit of a speciality for us at Gadling — there’s something tantalizing about hearing about most outrageous roller coaster or the largest pretzel stand or the drunkest airline passenger in the world. So when we heard that Australia is planning the worlds largest marine park, our fingertips started tingling. Australia — the land of furry creatures and meat pies is going to establish the largest marine park in the world. Awesome.

The area to be protected lies in the Coral Sea off the northeast coast of Australia, where the G

10 best art hotels for creative travelers

by Jessica Festa on

Sometimes when traveling, the average hotel can get a little boring. Why not try something unique and artistic on your next trip? These ten hotels don’t just hang paintings on the walls, they make guests feel as if they’re staying in a real life work of art.

Daddy Long Legs Independent Travellers Hotel
Cape Town, South Africa

The designers of Daddy Long Legs had independent, creative backpackers in mind when building the property. Staying here is like being inside an interactive art exhibition, with unique rooms decorated by artists, poets, photographers, musicians, and designers who had free range to do whatever they pleased. The result is a mix of funny, ironic, and adventurous themed hotel rooms. Some room examples include:

  • the Freshroom- This is the only room to be commissioned by a commercial product. Guests can expect a retro Mentos theme, including a blinds with a pinup of Mona Lisa holding a pack of Mentos, circular raised wallpaper, and furniture adorned with 2,500 rolls of Mentos mints.
  • Far From Home- This room makes guests feel as if they are in the Karoo Wilderness by turning photographs of the region into wallpaper.
  • The Photo Booth (pictured above)- This room contains 3,240 images that are geared around the theme of “life”.

The Henry Jones Art Hotel
Tasmania, Australia

The Henry Jones Art Hotel is a unique hotel offering first class accommodations. Australia’s first art hotel, Henry Jones features original contemporary artworks by emerging and established Tasmanian artists. Sculptures, design pieces, paintings, prints, photographs and more can be perused in the rooms, restaurants, bars, and public spaces, and some of it can even be purchased. For guests who want the full art experience, take a guided tour through the hotel to get a closer look at the range of works as well as the historical overview.

Hotel des Arts
San Francisco, California

The Hotel des Arts is located in the French Quarter and presents the contemporary work of local artists. Guests will not only look at art, but interact with it. Staying in one of the hotel’s Painted Rooms will immerse you in your choice of imaginative installations or edgy graffiti from floor to ceiling. And, if that’s not enough, there is an art gallery on premises that hosts an array of creative exhibitions.

Gladstone Hotel
Toronto, Canada

The Gladstone Hotel is more than just an accommodation; it’s an ongoing experiment that intertwines urban development and cultural entrepreneurship. Along with being a values driven business with a green philosophy, the property also promotes art. Artists created unique themes for each room, a few of which include:

  • The Biker Room (pictured right)- This room features furniture and adornments influenced by motorcycle culture.
  • The Map Room- The goal of the artist was to have guests create their own view Toronto by engaging with the room’s features. For instance, the headboard and ceiling chart the surrounding streets, while a line drawing in the bathroom depicts the nearby ferry route and street grid.
  • The Felt Room- This room is based on the material and the idea behind it. Associated with modern industrialization, felt is rich in scope and can be worked as a surface as well as a structure.

New Majestic Hotel
Singapore, South East Asia

The New Majestic Hotel includes 30 rooms, all designed by artists whose creations were made specifically for the accommodation. While some rooms may contain hidden messages in the art work that can only be read when laying in bed or sitting in the bathtub, others are more flashy with mirrors making up the walls and ceiling. There is an array of creative and interactive experiences for guests to choose from.

Arte Luise Kunsthotel
Berlin, Germany

Originally a building for artists to camp out after the fall of the Berlin Wall, the structure eventually evolved into what is now known as the Arte Luise Kunsthotel. Often called “a gallery where you can spend the night”, this hotel offers rooms that have each been designed by established artists. Guests can choose from an array of themes. While one room may have life sized women painted onto the walls, another may be created to make you feel like you are on safari. Others may have shoes protruding from the walls or have accessories that make you feel as if you are an actor in a sci-fi film.

21C Museum Hotel
Louisville, Kentucky

The 21C Museum Hotel holds a creative experience in every room and space, including the bathrooms and sidewalk outside. While the rooms themselves hold unique pieces of art, what’s really special about this property is the fact that it houses North America‘s first museum dedicated only to collecting and showcasing 21st century contemporary art. On the first floor you will find the actual gallery, while the restaurant and bar also feature a rotation of exhibits. Upon check-in, guests will be given an I-Pod that will give them a guided tour of the hotel’s collection.

Hotel Fox
Copenhagen, Denmark

Hotel Fox is an exciting and creative lifestyle hotel that features 1,000 ideas from 21 different artists in 61 rooms. Combining comfort with the bizarre, each room is a unique piece of art. Some themes include the wacky and humorous, street art, Japanese Manga, fairytales, monsters, and more.

Kosta Boda Art Hotel
Kosta, Sweden

The Kosta Boda Art Hotel is a hotel with a glass art theme, with a glass bar, glass art installations and exhibitions, glassblowing workshops, and rooms featuring creative glass works. Not surprisingly, the hotel is located in the center of the Kingdom of Crystal, so even when you venture out of the hotel your glass art experience will continue.

Propeller Island City Lodge
Berlin, Germany

The Propeller Island City Lodge is truly a unique property as it is a “habitable work of art”. All rooms and their contents are creations of German artist Lars Stroschen, with every object in every room being custom made. While rooms vary from the tame to the extreme, your sense of reality will be altered. And with hanging beds to entire rooms being made of mirror, you will encounter a lot of unusual and trippy scenery.