The less traveled part of the Caribbean

There’s so much to love about the Caribbean, and so much to hate.

The “hate” category exists because the Caribbean we have all come to love is now loved by too many; there are too many hotels, too many tourists, and too much development.

But there are exceptions.

Thankfully, the fine folks over at Condé Nast Traveler have compiled a fantastic guide to the less touristy places along the Caribbean side of Central America that “are still under the radar” — such as Corn Island in the photo above. This also includes the coasts of Belize, Honduras, Guatemala, Nicaragua, Costa Rica, and Panama.

No, you won’t find the swank, sophistication, and luxury yachts that populate the rest of the Caribbean, but you will find the peace and solace that comes with small coastal villages, empty beaches, and modest accommodations.

This is the true Caribbean, the way it used to be. Visit now before it becomes just another Cancun.

One for the Road: Moon Belize

Moon has released updated editions of several Central American titles this fall. We’ve mentioned their Guatemala and Costa Rica handbooks already, and will highlight another new release today:

Joshua Berman’s Moon Belize has been nominated for Planeta’s Book of the Year award for “best place-based guidebook.” Moon has a special web-only Q & A with Josh, who has spent ten years touring and leading trips around Central America. And we’ve got some insider info from the knowledgeable author as well. Today, November 19, holds special significance for the people of Belize. In his own words, Joshua Berman tells us why:

Settlement Day – the annual reenactment of the Garinagu people’s 1823 arrival on Belizean shores – is one of the rowdiest, raging-est parties of the year in Belize. At least it is in Garinagu (also known as Garifuna) communities up and down the coast.


The biggest party, most bands, and longest drumming binges are found in Dangriga. Smaller-scale celebrations occur in Belize City, Hopkins, and Seine Bight. Festivities start on the night of the 18th, climaxing at dawn when palm be-fronded wooden dories are rowed to shore. Crowds greet the boats’ arrival with drums, dance, and alcohol and then everybody parades through town to a Church, a house party, or to the taco cart by Stann Creek Bridge.


You’ll have a difficult time finding lodging in Dangriga during the week preceding and after Settlement Day, since so many expat Garinagus from Chicago and New York book their holiday a year in advance. But you may get lucky, and if you can convive all night with the locals (as they will be doing several nights in a row), you won’t need a room anyway.

It someone hands you a shot of clear, strong-smelling liquor, it’s probably “bitters,” also called gífit. This cherished nectar of the Gods is good for what ails you: from cancer to romance. As one of Dangriga’s most famous homebrewers, Big Mac said to me from behind his counter, “It’s good for your penis, mon!”

Geek Cruises

If one has to be a geek to go on a Geek Cruise, then call me a geek. Looking over the itinerary choices of this company reminds me of looking through the course offerings of a community adult ed program–self improve while having fun.

The idea is that while you are enjoying the perks of cruise ship life in the Caribbean, the Panama Canal or the Eastern Mediterranean, you can feed your passions. That is if your passions include subjects like Shakespeare, digital photography, or chess. The folks who offer the workshops know their stuff. For example, Shakespeare at Sea is an Oregon Shakespeare Festival venture that includes a combination of lectures, performances and films. This year’s cruise that sets sail in November is sold out, but from the Web site info, it seems like it will repeat next year.

Each cruise gives you plenty of time to hobnob with the experts before and after sessions to further brush up on your know how. Except for the Shakespeare cruise, the others have room, but some are almost booked. I almost started to salivate when I saw the Bright Horizons cruise. Botany, cosmology and cognitive psychology are only part of the offerings. Yep, I’m a geek. The early bird discount, $100 off, is still available.

Here’s an interview with Leo Laporte who has taken several Geek Cruises. One of the things he likes about them is that they are a great way to take a multi-generational vacation. He’s taken his mom and his son on the same cruise and sees that it’s a terrific way to bond while learning something. As he says, he doesn’t like to sit around and let his “mind go to pot.”

The photo by DexStory was taken on a Geek Cruise that included Belize.

Want more information on cruises?

The Amazing world of Francis Ford Coppola

It’s rare that a real live person can be described as a destination.

And yet, this is how the Miami Herald describes film director Francis Ford Coppola.

Films can be journeys unto themselves, of course, but it is Coppola’s non-cinematic ventures which are the focus of the Herald’s “destination” piece.

Coppola, like Walt Disney before him, has used profits from Hollywood to create real-world escapes. Coppola’s investments have been far different than Disney’s, however, focusing on amusements that are more mature than cartoons and roller coasters.

Winery
Coppola’s Rubicon Estate in Napa, California rests on a few hundred acres of prime grapevines which have produced a number of award winning wines for the famed director. Tours of the estate start at $20 for a historical tour and $45 for a tour of the wine facilities (tastings included). Also located on the grounds is the Centennial Museum. The museum contains artifacts from the original owner of the estate, Gustave Niebaum, as well as movie memorabilia from Coppola’s films, including all five of his Oscars. It will soon be moving to another location, however.

Restaurants
A restaurant owned by Francis Ford Coppola really needs no introduction. It’s not too hard to guess that anything with his name on it is going to include fantastic wine and great Italian food. If you happen to be in the San Francisco area, be sure to stop by Rubicon, Café Zoetrope, or Café Ross Bianco (in Palo Alto).

Resorts
Disney had Disneyland and Coppola has Blancaneaux Lodge in the jungles of Belize, Turtle Inn on the southern coast of Belize, and La Lancha in Guatemala near the Tikal region. Travelers can drool over all three locations at the following website.

I don’t know about you, but I sure think it must be great to be Francis Ford Coppola. Can’t I just be him for one day? Please?

Cruise Ship Dumping

Our good friend Josh Berman, who hauled himself with his wife out to glorious Boulder, Colorado, is still keeping busy traveling and writing his blog, Stonegrooves. It’s been a while since we checked in with the prolific travel book writer, so I figured we’d do so and post about this video of a cruise ship dumping it’s trash onto a Belizean barge.

I’m not sure what the legality is of this act, but Josh suggests it’s illegal. Whatever the case, it does point out one of the big issues facing the rise in tourism around the globe: solid waste disposal.

This is actually an issue just about ever where, but for cruise ships and such it is an even bigger problem. There are actually entire organizations whose stated purpose is to control this issue. I remember taking a boat up the Amazon years ago, and I watched in horror as one of the boat’s workers literally swept a week’s worth of trash into the Amazon River. Everything went: bottles, condoms, batteries, food trash. It was disgusting.

So that might not be the most lovely note upon which to pay a visit to Josh’s blog, but what can you do.