Big in Japan: The best Japanese summer food & drink

by Matthew Firestone on

After several long weeks on the road in East Africa, Big in Japan is back once more, bringing you weird, wacky and wonderful news from the Land of the Rising Sun.

Summer is in full effect here in Tokyo, which means that the temperature is soaring and the humidity is saturating.

Fortunately, the Japanese have a number of culinary treats that are perfect for beating the heat and staying nourished during their tropical summers. While tumblers of hot sake and steamy bowls of ramen are great for warming up during the winter months, it’s time to add a few more dishes to your culinary lexicon.

So, without further adieu, today’s post is all about the best Japanese summer food & drink…

Sōmen (素麺) You know it’s summer in Japan when the shops start serving these thin, white noodles made of wheat flour. While heavier noodle soups can slow you down in the summer heat, sōmen sit light in the belly, and are simply dressed up with a lightly flavored dipping sauce. Special variations of sōmen are made with powdered tea, and can easily be identified by their light green color.

Zaru-soba (ざるそば) Soba noodles are delicious when served in a hot fishy broth, but they’re just as divine when served ice cold on a bamboo plate known as a zaru. Made principally of buckwheat, soba noodles are high in fiber, and typically garnished with shredded bits of seaweed. Like sōmen, soba noodles are served with a light dipping sauce made of sweetened soy and mirin cooking wine.

Unagi (うなぎ) Nothing says summer more than charcoal-roasted freshwater eel, which is reported to give you the strength and virility you need to get through the long, hot days. While unagi can be a seriously gourmet fare, locals swear by the bento boxes from the convenience stores, which are perfectly-packaged for a picnic in the park. Best served with a dash of ground white pepper, good unagi has a soft texture and a complex taste.

Jasmine Tea (ジャスミン茶) The Japanese are devoted tea drinkers, so it shouldn’t come as a surprise that they have a specialty summer brew. Jasmine tea, which is served ice-cold and unsweetened, is a fragrant beverage that is light, fruity and low in acidity. You can buy pre-packaged bottles in any of Japan’s million or so vending machines.

Draft Beer (生ビール) Summer in Japan is punctuated by a number of outdoor festivals, ranging from huge open air rock concerts to fireworks along the riverside. At any of these events, sample a few frothy pints of nama-biiru, which is a wonderfully alcoholic way to stay cool. Of course, the tropical sun can seriously ruin your day, so don’t forget to stay hydrated as passing out in the public eye isn’t the most honorable way to go.

Bon appetit, or as they say in Japanese, ittadakimasu.

** All images courtesy of the WikiCommons Media Project **

Big in Africa: The best game parks in East Africa

by Matthew Firestone on

This month, Big in Japan is on vacation in Africa, and will be bringing you travel news and happenings from around this often misunderstood continent.

For a good number of tourists in Africa, the Kenyan capital of Nairobi is their first port of call. While this rough and ready city isn’t the gentlest introduction to the continent, it’s a good jumping off point for some of the best game parks in East Africa.

(For tips on what to do in Nairobi other than getting mugged, click here to stay safe!)

Kenya, Tanzania and to a lesser extent Uganda are home to a stunning range of national parks and game reserves that pretty much epitomize the safari experience. Whether you go all out on tented lodges, khaki safari gear and gin & tonics, or rough it with pitch tents, backpacker rags and cold beers, don’t miss out on East Africa’s game parks.

Need some help deciding where to go? Today’s posting should help you get started.

Masai Mara, Kenya: Probably one of the most spectacular wildlife experiences on the planet, Masai Mara is in top form in July and August during the annual wildebeest migration. If you’ve ever seen footage on the nature channels of helpless herd animals crossing crocodile infested waterways, then you’re already familiar with the drama and excitement of the Mara.

The Serengeti, Tanzania: From December to April, the wildebeest action swings south across the border to Tanzania, home to the timeless plains of the Serengeti (think Lion King!). One of the most storied national parks in Africa, the Serengeti is home to high concentrations of lions and hyenas, which grow fat and happy on all the wildebeest running about.

Lake Nakuru, Kenya: From a distance, this shimmering lake appears pink against the horizon, and you’d be forgiven for thinking that you’re being tricked by a mirage. On the contrary, the lake supports some of the largest concentrations of flamingoes in the world, as well as a healthy and stable population of white and black rhinos.

Ngorongoro Crater, Tanzania: This enormous crater that can clearly be scoped out on Google Maps is a veritable Lost World of wildlife. After you descend the steep walls and get out onto the grassy plains, you’ll be surrounded by dense concentrations of wildlife that spend their entire lives inside this remote crater.

Murchison Falls, Uganda: Although this storied game park was ravaged by poachers during the early years of Uganda’s troubled independence, Murchison Falls is once again back on the safari map. Along the shores of the Albert Nile River, you can scope out elephant herds that are again flourishing in their tropical surrounds.

While these are just a few of East Africa’s more famous game parks, don’t overlook the lesser-known parks where you can safari sans tourist hordes. A few spots to consider are Tanzania’s Selous Game Reserve, Kenya’s Samburu National Reserve and Uganda’s Queen Elizabeth National Park among others.

So, bring your binoculars, wear plenty of sunscreen and best of luck in spotting the Big 5!

** Next week Big in Japan will back as it’s almost time for me to get back home (^_^) **

Big in Africa: Things to do in Nairobi besides getting mugged

by Matthew Firestone on

This month, Big in Japan is on vacation in Africa, and will be bringing you travel news and happenings from around this often misunderstood continent.

Nairobi, the less than gentle capital of Kenya, serves as the jumping off point for East Africa’s most storied game parks. Indeed, ‘Nai-robbery’ is home to extraordinary extremes in wealth and poverty, which sadly fuels a staggering amount of street crime.

Despite its infamous reputation however, Nairobi is a wonderfully dynamic and culturally rich city. The outskirts of the Kenyan capital also present numerous opportunities to interact with Africa’s charismatic wildlife.

As with major cities the world over, it pays to exercise caution while in Nairobi, though you needn’t be paralyzed with fear while passing time here. Indeed, all it takes is a little common sense and an awareness of your surroundings to minimize your chances of becoming a victim.

And, assuming you can get over a somewhat healthy preoccupation with your personal security, you can actually really enjoy yourself in Nairobi.

Here is a list of cool things to do while in Nairobi:

Dine on crocodile, camel and ostrich. The suburb of Langata is home to Carnivore, one of the most famous tourist restaurants on the continent. While it’s no longer legal to dine on wild meat, you can still taste a few exotic animals that have been farm-raised for human consumption.

See an antelope get taken down by a lion. Believe it or not, there is an unfenced national park literally on the edge of the capital. Nairobi National Park, which is somewhat incongruously positioned next to the airport, boasts a healthy number of felines as well as more than fifty wild rhinos.

Watch a baby elephant get bottle-fed. Part of Nairobi National Park, the David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust raises orphaned baby elephants with the goal of reintroducing them to the wild. Between the hours of 11am and noon daily, you can watch these playful little guys be hand reared by the dedicated staff.

Dance to the latest Swahili beats. Although a good number of tourists are content to shut the windows and lock the doors after sunset, Nairobi really comes alive at night. If you’re feeling a little cabin crazy, head to any of the bars and clubs in the Westlands for a dose of the Tusker lager-fueled nightlife.

French kiss a giraffe. Although you may make your better half jealous, stop by the Langata Giraffe Centre where you can stand on a raised platform and get intimate with a giraffe. The center is run by the African Fund for Endangered Wildlife, so all of the proceeds go directly to conservation.

Haggle for a three-foot wooden giraffe. The city market on Muindi Mbingu Street is your one-stop shop for quintessential Kenyan souvenirs. While touristy figurines may not be your thing, Kenyan artisans also produce some stunning work, including hand-inlaid soapstone bowls, intricately carved wooden masks, and extremely detailed Masaai beadwork.

Moral of the story: while in Nairobi, take the words ‘Hakuna Matata’ to heart and relax…

** A special shout-out to my travelling buddy Adam Karlin – Spring Break Mombasa!!! **

Big in Africa: How to track gorillas in the wild

by Matthew Firestone on

This month, Big in Japan is on vacation in Africa, and will be bringing you travel news and happenings from around this often misunderstood continent.

Africa abounds with unparalleled wildlife experiences, though few can compare with the experience of staring down a mountain gorilla, especially if it happens to be a male silverback. While these gentle giants have been habituated to human visitors, they are nevertheless a formidable sight in the wild.

Mountain gorillas are largely confined to three national parks spanning three countries: Parq National des Volcans in Rwanda, Bwindi Impenetrable Forest in Uganda and Parq National des Virungas in the Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC).

However, before you can have a true ‘Gorillas in the Mist’ experience, you’re going to need to jump through all sorts of administrative hurdles, and obtain the necessary tracking permits. While this isn’t exactly the most straightforward process, today’s post should hopefully help you get started.

Gorilla tracking in East Africa is highly regulated, and you must obtain a permit before setting out. In Rwanda, Uganda and DRC, a permit costs a whopping US$500, though this money is used to protect gorillas from poaching. Indeed, populations were brought to the brink of extinction before conservation efforts were stepped up in recent decades.

The most famous place to track gorillas in the wild is Parq National des Volcans in Rwanda, which was made famous by Dian Fossey. The organization responsible for issuing permits is ORTPN, though confirmed bookings must be made months in advance, particularly if you’re planning on visiting Rwanda in the summer months.

Unfortunately, it isn’t always easy to deal with ORTPN by e-mail, though there are plenty of tour operators in East Africa that can help you secure permits. And of course, you can always show up in Kigali and hope for a last minute cancellation, though you’re going to need a little patience and a whole lot of luck as only 56 permits are issued per day.

Once you arrive in Rwanda, you will need to register with the park headquarters in Kinigi at 7am on the day your permit is valid. After being assigned a guide and a group, you will then track the gorillas through the montane forest, and spend exactly one hour observing the largest apes on the planet.

A worthwhile contender to Parq National des Volcans is the awesomely named Bwindi Impenetrable Forest in Uganda. Following the highly publicized murder of several tourists in 1999, gorilla tracking reservations plummeted, though today the national park is back on the tourist map thanks to improved security.

The Ugandan version of ORTPN is called UWA, and similar procedures are in place for obtaining permits. Again, it is necessary to book several months in advance either through UWA or a tour operator, unless of course you’re not adverse to waiting it out in Kampala. And again, once you arrive in Uganda, you will need to register at the park headquarters at 8am on the day your permit is valid.

If you’re having problems getting permits for Rwanda or Uganda, you can always head to Parq National des Virungas in DRC, and do your best to differentiate the park officials from rebel fighters (the difference isn’t as obvious as you’d imagine). With that said, the Democratic Republic of Congo isn’t a democracy, it’s hardly a republic, but it certainly is the Congo!

One that note, be safe, and let us know how it goes…

** All images were taken by the author in Parq National des Volcans, Rwanda **

Big in Africa: Spotlight on Rwanda

by Matthew Firestone on

This month, Big in Japan is on vacation in Africa, and will be bringing you travel news and happenings from around this often misunderstood continent.

Although Africa is usually viewed in the West as a singular entity, the continent is incredibly varied. From the Saharan desert and the Sahel to equatorial rainforests and acacia-lined plains, Africa offers up an impressive amount of biodiversity.

While most first-timers on the continent choose to safari in classic destinations such as Kenya and South Africa, there is one tiny country that is turning heads in ecotourism circles. Bordering Tanzania, Uganda, Burundi and the Democratic Republic of the Congo (DRC), Rwanda is emerging as one of the continent’s top attractions.

Whether you trek along the Congolese border in search of rare mountain gorillas, or unwind with a passion fruit cocktail on the sandy shores of Lake Kivu, Rwanda is a remarkable tourist destination that deserves its share of the spotlight.

Mention Rwanda to just about anyone with the smallest measure of geopolitical conscious, and they’ll no doubt recall images of the horrific genocide that brutalized this tiny country in 1994. In the span of just 100 days, an estimated one million Tutsis and moderate Hutus were systematically butchered by the Interhamwe militas.

While the scars still run deep, Rwanda has done a remarkable job of healing its wounds and turning towards the future. The government has eliminated the very mention of tribes, and rallied the country under the common Rwandan identity. And, in order to help stimulate its developing economy, the country is protecting its most vital natural resource – the mountain gorilla.

A string of volcanoes run along the Congolese border, forming the backbone of the world famous Parq National des Volcans, the national park where Dian Fossey wrote Gorillas in the Mist. Here, seven groups of mountain gorillas inhabit the montane forests along the slopes of the volcanoes.

Since 1999, tourists have been once again allowed to track these rare primates, and a face-to-face encounter with a silverback in the wild is easily one of the highlights of any trip to Africa. If you want to learn how to obtain a highly coveted tracking permit, check out tomorrow’s column of Big in Africa.

Parq National des Volcans is also home to the endangered golden monkey, while Nyuwenge Forest in the southeast contains chimpanzees and enormous troops of colobus monkeys. Of course, Rwanda isn’t just monkey business – Gisenyi on the shores of Lake Kivu is a relaxed and low-key resort town, while increasingly cosmopolitan Kigali is one of the most beautiful capitals in East Africa.

Rwanda is also home to a number of genocide memorials, which offer perspective on the past rather than accusations. The Kigali Memorial Centre in the Kigali suburb of Kisozi is a poignant and heart-wrenching testimonial that catalogs the tremendous human sacrifice paid by Rwandans.

Perhaps Apollon Katahizi said it best: “When they said ‘never again’ after the holocaust, was it meant for some peope and not for others.”

If you find yourself in East Africa, be sure to spend your tourist dollars in Rwanda – the country needs it.