Big in Japan: Swish-Swish Goes the Shabu-Shabu

In one of the pivotal scenes in the movie Lost in Translation, Scarlett Johansson and Bill Murray’s characters get together for a lunch that is wrought with sexual tension. While staring blankly at plates of raw meat, and reminiscing about the previous night’s indiscretions, Murray wryly comments, ‘What kind of restaurant makes you cook your own food?’

The answer Bill is simple: shabu-shabu (????????????).

The Japanese onomatopoeic sound for ‘swish-swish,’ shabu-shabu is a type of Japanese hot pot involving plates of thinly sliced raw meat and pots of boiling broth.

Needless to say, the potential for either ingesting uncooked meat or burning your hands beyond recognition are two of the pivotal reasons why shabu-shabu hasn’t caught on outside Japan.

Truth be told, there are a few places in America where you can indulge in this Japanese delicacy (albeit in a closely watched manner), especially in Little Tokyo in Los Angeles and in Chinatown in New York.

Of course, nothing quite equals the actual thing.

Traditionally, shabu-shabu focused on thin slices of raw Japanese beef, though these days Australian beef and increasingly American beef is popping up on the menus. Needless to say, I’m partial to the Kobe variety, but since I’m not rolling in the yen, I’m happy to settle for the cheaper, less marbled meat.

Shabu-shabu is usually served with blocks of hard tofu and a healthy smattering of vegetables. Although these vary depending on the restaurant, the staples are Chinese cabbage, mushrooms, chrysanthemum leaves, seaweed, onions and carrots. It’s also fairly common to be served a side of udon noodles, which are excellent for soaking up the broth and providing a bit of carbs to the feast.

Here comes the fun part!

With your chopsticks in hand, pick up a single slice of meat, and swish it (or better yet shabu it!) around the broth for a few seconds. Depending on the quality of the meat, you’re going to want to leave the middle pink if it’s Kobe, or cook the hell out of it if it’s of unknown origin.

Next, dip the meat in one of the accompanying sauces, which are usually either ponzu (ぽんず), a sweet, citrus sauce, or goma (ごま), a creamy, sesame sauce.

Now that you’ve got the hang of it, you’re going to want to spice up the broth a bit. Although the broth is made by boiling dashi (だし) or flaked bonito, get creative by tossing in a plate of vegetables, tofu and noodles. After a few minutes, the broth will darken in color and thicken in texture, which will make the beef taste even more delicious.

Finally, once all the meat, vegetables and noodles have been eaten, the broth from the pot is customarily combined with a few bowls of rice. After all, you wouldn’t want to waste any food, now would you?

** Special thanks to my fellow restaurant goers, ‘Bakka-sugi’ Will and ‘I’m too cute’ Maho-san ***

Big in Japan: 27 (More) Reasons Why You’ve Been in Japan Too Long

There is nothing quite like the feeling of stepping off the plane in Japan for the first time. From the blinding speeds of the bullet train and the soaring heights of Mt Fuji to the craziest street fashions and the freshest fish you’ll ever taste, Japan awakens the senses like few countries I know.

After awhile however, it all starts to feel normal, which is of course your first warning sign that you’ve been in Japan for too long.

Think you may have Japanophilia?

Can’t remember what your family, friends and country look like?

Forgetting your Eng(r)ish?

(Didn’t read yesterday’s article?)

You’ve been in Japan too long when…

…you can’t have your picture taken without your fingers forming the peace sign.

…when you forget how to spell simple words like “wear”

…when you think one kind of rice tastes better than another kind.

…you return the bow from the cash machine.

…when you rush home from work to catch the last few minutes of sumo.

…you can’t find the “open” and “close” buttons in the elevator because they’re in English.

…the TV commercials make sense to you.

…when you think that coffee goes perfectly well with squid pizza.

…you fully understand the concept of ‘cuteness’

… you think cod roe spaghetti with chilled red wine is a typical Italian dish.

…you run for the subway, pushing people left and right and, jump on the train holding the doors open to let your bag follow you on simply because you know there will not be another one for at least a minute.

…you find yourself apologizing at least three times per conversation.

…you buy an individually wrapped potato in the supermarket.

…you think that “Lets SPORTS yOUNG gAY CluB” is a perfectly normal T shirt logo for a middle aged lady.

…you have to pause and translate your phone number into English before telling it to someone.

…you order a ‘bottle of draft’ in a pub.

…you are speaking in English but all references to money come out in Japanese.

…you think sushi at a baseball game is perfectly normal (also applies to “too long in California”).

…your idea of a larger home is an extra 10 square meters.

…you leave your office mid-morning and go to a coffee shop in order to get some work done.

...you go for a drink with friends back home and start pouring everybody’s beer.

..when when you draw a sharp distinction between ‘English’ and ‘English conversation.’

…you are disappointed when Dominoes doesn’t have corn pizza, and the driver is disappointed when you forget the tip.

..you buy tickets to a Tokyo Giants baseball game and spend time practicing the cheers.

…while back in your home country for a short visit you patiently wait outside your taxi for its door to spring open for you.

…when you vow to honorably do your best before every little activity you engage in.

…lunch is yesterday’s leftovers out of a Hello Kitty bento box.

Think it may be time to go back home?

** This list is courtesy of Will at http://web2.iadfw.net/will/japan2long.html

Big in Japan: 33 Reasons Why You’ve Been in Japan Too Long

There is nothing quite like the feeling of walking the streets of Japan for the first time. From the exotic smells of sushi and soba wafting through the air to the blinding neon and crushing urban density of it all, Japan awakens the senses like few countries I know.

After awhile however, it all starts to feel normal, which is of course your first warning sign that you’ve been in Japan for too long.

Think you may have Japanophilia?

Can’t remember what your family, friends and country look like?

Forgetting your Eng(r)ish?

You’ve been in Japan too long when…

…you find yourself bowing while you talk on the phone.

…you don’t hesitate to put a $10 note into a vending machine.

…you start thinking can coffee tastes good.

…you have trouble figuring out how many syllables there really are in words like ‘building’.

…when the first option you buy for your car is a TV set.

…you don’t think it unusual for a truck to play “It’s a Small World” when backing up.

...you really enjoy corn soup with your Big Mac.

…you think the opposite of red is white.

…you buy a potato and strawberry sandwich for lunch without cringing.

…when you squat waiting for a bus to come.

…people stop complementing you on your Japanese, and start asking you where you had your nose and eyes done.

…you think Princess Masako is beautiful and Hillary Clinton is cute.

…you think birds cry.

…you are not surprised to wake up in the morning and find that the woman who stayed over last night has completely cleaned your apartment, even though you’ll probably never ever meet her again.

…you think its cool to stand in the “Japanese only” queue at the airport.

…you develop a liking for green tea flavored ice cream.

…you think the best part of TV are the commercials.

…you think wet umbrellas need condoms.

…your children call you Otosan (Daddy) and Okasan (Mommy).

…you have mastered the art of simultaneous bowing and hand-shaking.

…when you think it’s alright to stick your head into a stranger’s apartment to see if anybody’s home.

…when you find nothing unusual in a television commercial for candy in which a model dressed in a high school girl’s uniform comes up behind another model dressed in a high school girl’s uniform, grabs her left breast, gives a devilish grin, and skips away.

…you think the natural location for a beer garden is on a roof.

…you have discovered the sexual attraction of high school navy uniforms.

…when you no longer find anything unusual in the concept of ‘Vermont curry.’

…you think 4 layers of wrapping is reasonable for a simple piece of merchandise.

…a new foreigner moves to your neighborhood and you know immediately you will get his mail for a while.

…when you get on a train with a number of foreigners on it and you feel uneasy because the harmony is broken.

…when looking out the window of your office, you think ‘Wow, so many trees!’ instead of ‘Wow, so much concrete!’

…you think curry rice is food.

…when in the middle of nowhere, totally surrounded by rice fields and abundant nature, you aren’t surprised to find a drink vending machine with no visible means of a power supply.

…it takes fifteen seconds of deep thought to recall the first name of the President of the United States.

…and when you think nothing of it when that lonely vending machine says ‘thank you’ after you buy a coke.

Think it may be time to go back home?

Click here for more ways to tell if you’ve been in Japan too long…

** This list is courtesy of Will at http://web2.iadfw.net/will/japan2long.html

Big in Japan: A Look Inside My Tokyo Apartment

This week I decided that I needed a change of surroundings, so I moved to the Nakameguro (??????) district in Tokyo. It’s a highly-respectable neighborhood bordering on the entertainment district of Shibuya (???) and the wealthy residential district of Yebisu (????). To simplify things a bit, it’s within easy striking (or stumbling) distance of the bar and club scene, yet offers all the peace and isolation of a residential area.

And, it’s surprisingly cheap, and much nicer and bigger than you’d imagine.

A few weeks ago, I wrote a two part series on the Myth of Money in Japan, which argued that Japan is surprisingly more affordable than you would imagine. The responses to my post ran the gamut from ‘You’re absolutely correct and thanks for acknowledging what I already knew!’ to ‘You’re an absolute idiot and thanks for wasting five minutes of my life.’

Hey – there’s always a critic!

Well, in order to throw some more fuel into the fire, I’ve decided to give you all a virtual tour of my apartment. Hopefully, this will help dispel the myth that the Japanese live in crowded shoeboxes that rent for thousands of dollars a month.

First of all, the renting agency is a popular foreign-friendly company known as Sakura House (www.sakura-house.com). My room is located in a gaijin house (外人ハウス) or foreigner house that is aimed exclusively at ex-pats temporarily living in Japan.

Although prices vary considerably depending on the neighborhood, my current room lists for ¥83,000 a month including utilities and wireless internet. Depending on the current exchange rate, this is about $690 to $755 a month – not bad for one of the nicest districts in Tokyo.

As you can see from the pictures, it’s spacious (approximately 100 sq m), and comes furnished with a good bed and a somewhat shoddy but workable desk from which I am writing this column. However, take notice of the stone fireplace that sits behind the computer, as well as the polished wooden floors and closets.

The best part of course is the enormous picture window and sliding doors that face out towards the neighborhood. I overlook a number of traditional Japanese-style houses, and there is a Shinto temple complex in the distance.

Not bad for what is commonly referred to as the most expensive city in the world! Try finding a room this nice in New York City for less than $1000 a month.

The house itself is shared by seven other foreigners, all of whom have their own private rooms as well. In regards to common space, we have a fairly spacious kitchen, a lounge with satellite TV, two and a half bathrooms and an onsite washer and dryer.

Still not sold that living in Tokyo is prohibitively expensive? Consider the fact that the house is located only five minutes by foot from the subway station. If you’re a fan of convenience, I should also point out that the station has a number of restaurants, small shops and even a grocery store.

Now do you believe me that Japan can be bargain if you know where to look?

Big in Japan: Happy Birthday Emperor Hisahito

Last week I was moving into a new apartment here in Tokyo, which is why I completely forget to wish a big ‘Happy Birthday!’ ( ?????????????????, tanjoubi omedetou) to the future Emperor of Japan, Prince Hisahito.

By the way, before I get a lot of angry postings on this column, let’s clear up some nomenclature. Hirohito, the infamous Emperor Showa who thrust an imperialistic Japan into an expansionist campaign during World War II, is not the cute and cuddly toddler, Prince Hisahito, pictured to the right.

Truth be told however, Emperor Hirohito was the great-grandfather of Prince Hisahito, so there’s a good chance that the persimmon might not fall too far from the tree.

Needless to say, the media coverage regarding the first birthday of the prince was something akin to the Superbowl meets Wimbledon. The Imperial Household Agency released video footage of the birthday party, and every major Japanese newspaper published pictures of the boy on their front pages, somewhere between articles on the Japanese economy and the Iraq War.

According to the papers, the drooling toddler wore a white shirt and blue overalls for his meeting with Emperor Akihito and Empress Michiko. His mother, Princess Kiko, told reporters that Hisahito was as an active baby who simply couldn’t stop walking and talking.

“His Highness Prince Hisahito is walking with support and crawling on stairs, and his activity has grown vigorous particularly in the past month,” the Princess said in a statement. “He likes picture books and turns the pages himself.”

The Imperial Household Agency also released a rare statement: ‘Prince Hisahito has been growing up in good health without getting sick. On sunny days his mother often strolls around the palace garden with him.’

For those of you not versed in the politics of the Chrysanthemum Throne, Japan’s controversial (to say the least) royal family, it is important to know that Hisahito was the first male born into the royal family for 41 years. His birth averted a succession crisis in Japan, where only men can be monarchs.

Emperor Akihito has two sons, Naruhito and Akishino. Prince Hisahito is the son of Prince Akishino, the emperor’s younger son. The little boy has two older sisters, Princess Mako and Princess Kako. The emperor’s elder son, Crown Prince Naruhito, and his wife Princess Masako have a young daughter, Princess Aiko, who is pictured below.

So, to make things simple, if Naruhito died without a male heir, Akishino would become emperor. His baby son, Hisahito, would then become next in line to the Chrysanthemum Throne.

Here is where things get interesting.

Prior to the birth of Hisahito, Japan’s former Prime Minister Junichiro Koizumi had been advocating constitutional reform to allow women to ascend to the throne. If passed, this legislation would have allowed Princess Aiko to become Japan’s first empress. However, although the reform was supported by the general public, Japan’s conservative politicians were up in arms.

Of course, the much-needed debate was shelved entirely when news of Princess Kiko’s pregnancy was announced.

Politics aside, Hisahito is a cute little kid, so hopefully you can all join me in wishing the pudgy little guy a very happy first birthday.

** All photos courtesy of the Associated Press (AP) **