Visiting The Favela Of Rocinha In Rio De Janeiro, Brazil

by Jessica Festa on
“There were five people killed in the past two days,” Patrick, tour guide from Be A Local, whispered to me. “Even though the cops are moving the gangs, they’re trying to get back in.”

It was sunny and 85 degrees Fahrenheit that afternoon in Rio de Janeiro. In the distance, I could see trekkers climbing Sugarloaf Mountain, hang gliders whizzing through the air and kayakers taking advantage of the calm waters and beautiful beaches. So, what was I doing spending the day wandering around one of the most notoriously dangerous places in the country, the favela of Rocinha?

The previous day, I had been hanging out with a local who had told me that she thought it was an interesting and eye-opening experience, and even she had done a favela tour. In Rio, colorful hillside favelas dot the landscape just as much as beaches and mountains. If you want to really get to know the whole personality of Rio de Janeiro, you should consider visiting one — with a tour, of course, as these places can be unsafe to enter alone.

This is what brought me to Rocinha, instead of the beach, on that beautiful day. For those who don’t know what a favela is, it’s basically a slum or shantytown. Rocinha is the biggest favela in Brazil, and one of the largest in the world. While a 2010 census found there to be about 70,000 occupants, many believe there are actually more than 150,000. The favela is so big it is actually considered a neighborhood with its own neighborhood association. While many of the houses do have basic amenities and the town has shopping and cultural opportunities, it is still not somewhere you want to hangout alone. Concrete buildings aren’t made of concrete because it looks nice; they’re made that way because it gives extra protection from bullets over brick homes. At the bottom of the hill, you will find sewage, garbage and crumbling homes due to poor foundation. The smell in the air flips between rotten eggs and sewage to sweet cakes and sizzling meats, as you stumble through narrow alleys and over uneven rock, decaying wood and twisted wires.

Usually, the way a favela works is the people who live in them do not pay taxes. However, since November of 2011, police forces have taken over the streets in an attempt to clean up the area. Now residents do pay taxes and the cable and electric that was once illegally installed in homes is accounted for. Furthermore, police have been able to move gangs that had been wreaking havoc over the favela, although there are still problems with these groups trying to invade. Still, I was surprised that with all the corruption, disease and drug dealings Rocinha is known for, there are facilities like clothing shops, medical facilities, dance schools, art galleries, bakeries and even a daycare center. The favela has a rich culture and many of the residents are friendly, especially the energetic children that dance and smile in the streets.




One reason for the improvement in quality of life is these people who would once beg for money now are being told they must earn it. Whether through baking, painting, dancing, or drumming – as you can see in my video above – many of these people are now working hard to make money. Moreover, a samba school, ballet school, and music school are also in the favela, allowing for youths to become involved in extracurricular activities. At the bottom of the hill, a sports complex offering boxing, martial arts, capoeira, football, volleyball, swimming, surfing and more is offered, free of charge, as long as the family’s children are enrolled in school. The city is planning to also install cable cars and funiculars, to help those who work in the city and children in school get home in an easier and safer way. Events in the favela like marathons, boxing matches, and dance competitions are also giving the area something positive to focus on.

While walking around the favela, it was clear there is a lot of room for improvement. However, it is also obvious there are people living there with a lot of potential who want to do something good with their lives. The area holds a lot of culture- and the best view of Rio in town- it just needs to remove the dirt and grime hiding its beauty. At least 20% of Rio de Janeiro’s population lives in favelas, and most of them are good people who just want to put a roof over their heads. Hopefully, the new favela pacification program can continue to help bring a higher quality of life to these people.

Eating Acai: A Delicious Cultural Experience In Brazil

by Jessica Festa on

“So, what are some things I should do when I arrive in Rio de Janeiro” I asked my airplane seat mate, Clarissa, a local of the city.

“Ipanema beach is my favorite, Sugarloaf Mountain has great views of the city and you must try açai!” she replied excitedly.

I looked at her skeptically. “Açai? We have that in New York, too. That’s not much of a cultural experience.”

Was I ever wrong!

In Brazil, açai cafes, fruit shops and natural food eateries are on every street corner. These serve everything you could imagine – açai juices, bowls of frozen açai with fruit and toppings, açai cheesecake and even açai syrup to use on ice cream. I became addicted to frozen açai with honey and banana slices (shown above).

Açai is an Amazon fruit that is a natural source of iron, healthy fats, B vitamins, calcium and many other nutrients. Depending where you are in Brazil will determine how and why you consume it. In the southeast of Brazil, in places like Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo, açai is popular among athletes. In fact, some of the locals I asked described it as being “trendy” to eat. Often served cold with guarana, strawberry or banana, the sweet treat gives sports enthusiasts a useful energy boost. Even those who aren’t into working out still enjoy açai as a snack or healthy dessert.If you head into the north of Brazil the way the fruit is eaten begins to change. This is where açai is cultivated, in a state called Pará. Here you can see many boats coming from the area’s Amazon Forest filled with baskets of the fruit in its pure form. The locals in this area eat it differently — served with fish, as a side dish, at its natural temperature. To me this sounded odd but I was explained that it is similar to how many other cultures eat beans as a side dish. They’re full of iron, protein and energy, which laborers in the area need to do physical work. Furthermore, because the area is very humid, people eat açai to pep them up when feeling sluggish from the climate.

Because açai berries are imported to the United States and other parts of the world, the only place you can really get fresh açai is in Brazil. In other words, eating açai in Brazil is very much a worthwhile cultural experience.

A Haven For Food Lovers In Sao Paulo, Brazil: Mercado Municipal

by Jessica Festa on

I love food. It’s probably my favorite part of traveling. I also love saving money. That’s why on a recent trip to São Paulo, Brazil, where I was staying on the expensive Avenida Paulista, I was excited to learn about the Mercado Municipal.

Located on Cantareira Street, off the San Bento subway stop on the blue line, is a massive market selling various kinds of fruits, meats, cheeses, cakes, nuts, candies, oils, wines and more. It’s a very cultural experience, as locals rely on the market to get specialty items and when they have a lot to buy. It’s also a great way to introduce yourself to high-quality, local foods in Brazil. In fact, the food sold at Mercado Municipal is so good, most of the restaurants in the city purchase their ingredients from there.

The best part is the people selling the foods, especially the fruits, stand with cutting knives and napkins ready to give you samples. I got to try various fruits I had never seen or heard of before, and even some I had, just to see if they tasted different. I’m not sure if I was just excited to be in a new city, but strawberries definitely seem sweeter and juicier in Brazil.

Even when the stands didn’t appear to be giving away samples, if you ask to try something, it’s usually not a problem. Even though I don’t speak Portuguese, looking hungry with a longing stare got me a sampler of nuts that filled me for hours.

Still want to continue your journey of São Paulo’s unique flavors? Take the subway to the Ana Rosa stop on the green line. On the corner of Rua Joaquim and Rua Aurea is an off-the-radar popsicle shop called Frutos do Cerrado. While tiny in size, the shop sells ice pops, gelato and sorbets of more fruit flavors than I’ve ever seen in my life. Along with typical varieties like mango, banana and grape, there was buriti, amora, jatoba and tamarindo, to name a few. They even have a flavor for the caipirinha, Brazil’s national drink.

Footvolley: Brazil’s take on volleyball and soccer

by Jessica Festa on



While traveling through Brazil, I discovered a new sport I had never seen before, but one I’d definitely love to try. The sport was created in 1965 on Copacabana Beach in Rio de Janeiro, as a way for football (soccer) players to be able to practice their skills without violating the terms of the formal football ban that was going on. It is similar to volleyball in that points are awarded to the opposing team when the one team “drops” the ball. To make the game a bit more challenging, there are only two players from each team allowed on the court at one time. While the sport is most popular in Brazil, it has gained international attention and is also played in the United Kingdom, Israel, Paraguay, Asia and the United States.

For a better idea of how the game is played, check out the above clip of a Footvolley match being played on Leblon Beach in Brazil.

A local point of view of Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

by Jessica Festa on

“Então, você é do Rio de Janeiro?” asked the tan, freckled girl next to me on my flight from Miami, Florida, to Rio de Janeiro, Brazil.

I stared at her, unsure of what she’d said. “Inglés?”

“You speak English?” she asked, her eyes widening with excitement. “My mother is an English teacher. You have to meet her! What do you have planned for your time in Rio?”

I confided in her that I didn’t have much of anything planned. And this is how I got to experience Rio de Janeiro from a local point of view with my new best friend Clarissa leading the way.

What is so unique about the city of Rio de Janeiro is its beautiful beaches, cosmopolitan architecture, lush forests and unique mountains that can all be seen from any one vantage point. It’s also home to very friendly people, as Clarissa explained to me that the locals excitedly showing strangers around the city for no reason is “so Rio.”

I noticed the locals I met were very proud of Rio’s beauty, culture and heritage, and with good reason. While the other big Brazilian city of São Paulo is well known for its over-the-top work ethic and fast-paced style, Rio de Janeiro is more relaxed with a natural attractiveness.

History

Just because Rio is a beach town doesn’t mean there aren’t historical and educational sites.
For those coming to the city looking to learn about history, there are many options that even the residents consider worthwhile. Rio de Janeiro itself is historical, as it used to be the capital of Brazil until the government realized it wasn´t a good idea to have a capital that was so “exposed.” This is why they moved the capital to Brasília, an area located in the center of the country.My favorite historical site to visit was the Forte de Copacabana (pictured above), a military base located in the southern part of Rio de Janeiro. During the twentieth century, it was built to protect the coast and harbor from attack. Unfortunately, in 1922 rebel officers aimed the fort’s cannons at Rio de Janeiro during a revolt for social change. While the fort is no longer used for coastal defense, visitors can still go and check out the old cannons, architecture and a museum. There is also a charming outdoor restaurant called Confeitaria Colombo (pictured right) that serves a massive brunch with tea, coffee, chocolate, breads, cakes, cereals, yogurt and jams for 39 Reais (roughly US$21) for two people. Confeitaria Colombo has been around since 1894 and you can sit with a peaceful tree-lined avenue and the fort on your one side, and Copacabana Beach and the city skyline on your other. Surfers, kayakers and stand up paddle boarders provide entertainment during the meal.

Clarissa also told me about all of the old churches located in the city, the oldest one being Candelaria. It was the first church in Rio de Janeiro with its construction spanning from 1775 to the late nineteen century. The architecture is a baroque design and the structure itself is massive. While the building was home to many important historical events, such as massive protests and the devastating Candelaria Massacre on July 23, 1993, it is also a very sacred space. Whether you’re into history or not, I would recommend visiting the site and touring both the inside and outside, as it is a beautiful church that locals are very proud of. While telling me about the site, Clarissa also added that if you want to get married in Candelaria you should expect to pay an exorbitant amount of money.

I also enjoyed a visit led by my spontaneous local guide to the Teatro Municipal. It’s a theater located in the city center that was built in the early twentieth century. The building’s design was based on the Paris Opera, and the venue is a big part of the city’s art and cultural past in terms of foreign operas and symphonic orchestras. Today, the program of this grand theater has expanded and ballet and classical pieces are popular. If you don’t want to see a show, simply visit the theater to see the luxurious interior and grand design, or visit at night when it is all lit up.

Beaches

While many tourists head straight to Ipanema near Vinicius de Morais – a street named after the composer of the 1950’s hit song “Girl From Ipanema” – there are many other beautiful beaches with unique personalities. Start at Copacabana Beach (pictured right), which features impressive city-like architecture, the historical Copacabana Fort, impressive works of colorful sand art and an array of water and land activities. This beach is low-key and attracts a diverse crowd.

If you’re in the mood for a more VIP experience, make your way to Ipanema or Leblon Beach. Both are in upscale, expensive neighborhoods and attract only the most beautiful people, with these trendy, sexy beaches being no different. There are also very classy restaurants and lounges in the area, but only go if you have money to spend. On Sundays in Ipanema there is an excellent market from 10:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. in General Osório Square.

Barra Beach, although a bit hard to get to due to its traffic-heavy location, is in a more commercial setting. What’s great about this beach is it’s in completely open sea and away from the favelas. It’s also known for having very clean water and big waves that attract international surfers. If you’re looking for peace and quiet, head a little farther to Reserve Beach, which is in a completely protected area and has a very relaxed, calm setting. This is one of the beaches most loved by locals.

Once you get into the more mountainous, forest-covered areas, you will feel like you’re in a different city. The rare stretch of beauty starts with Macumba Beach, which is not only secluded within nature, but also a popular camping area. Next is the beach known by many locals as “the most beautiful beach in Rio,” Prainha Beach. Prainha is excellent for surfing and has a very small-town feel. Nearby, you will find an enormous flat rock in the water where locals sunbathe and try to catch fish. Pass a large mountain on your right and you will come to another amazing spot, Grumari Beach. This area is so hidden and off-the-beaten path that Argentine football (soccer) player Lionel Messi goes there to hide out. And if you’re feeling a little frisky, the nude beach is only seconds away behind the nearby rocks.

Hiking

As Rio de Janeiro is located in a very mountainous area, it’s no surprise that hiking is such a big part of local culture. While almost everyone has heard of Sugarloaf Mountain (pictured right), there is an array of worthwhile trails to discover. Pico Da Tijuca, located in an urban forest, is beautiful and easily accessible. It’s in a protected area and local fauna can be found like monkeys, snakes, frogs, birds and butterflies. Corcovado is another rare treat, as a trek to the top will bring you face-to-face with Jesus Christ himself – well, an enormous statue of him, anyway. The views from the top allow you to see the entire city at once.

The above-mentioned Sugarloaf is another great hike, and tourists and locals alike love the experience. Made of granite and quartz, the sugarloaf-resembling mass rises 1,299 feet above the Guanabara Bay with sweeping views of land, sea, forest and hills. Another unique formation is Pedra da Gavea, which resembles a sleeping giant. Here, trekkers can hike up a massive “nose” while wondering how such an odd shape could have been created by nature. There are also cryptic carvings and ancient inscriptions that make the site even more mysterious.
For an interesting mountain view, check out Two Brothers. While you can’t climb this unique natural formation, the two Siamese mountain twins make for a great photo, especially when viewed during a sunset from Ipanema Beach.

Dining

While you can find great food all over Rio de Janeiro, if you’re looking to dine where the locals do and eat typical Brazilian specialties, there are a few worthwhile places Clarissa introduced me to. For those wanting to sample famous Brazilian churrascaria, get dressed up and visit Churrascaria Porcao. Located near the airport in Flamengo, the traditional BBQ venue attracts high-class clientele and business people. Moreover, like most churrascarias you should expect to pay 80 Reais (roughly US$44) or more. While pricey, the meat, salad and seafood buffet is worth every penny, especially since there is a wall made of glass offering gorgeous views of the water. For something a little less traditional but just as classy and delicious, try Rio Brasa. Located in both Leblon and Barra, this trendy BBQ restaurant offers some of the best tasting meat in the country.

Another local dining trend in Rio de Janeiro is to go to a restaurant where you can enjoy imported beers, handcrafted brews and caipirinhas, and creative appetizers with an international and local fusion. One place to try this is Academia de Cachaça, which features outdoor seating and an array of specialty caipirinhas. I tried a peanut-infused one as well as one flavored with passion fruit and realized that, while I have sipped on cocktails in the United States that went by the same name, you’ve never really had a caipirinha until you’ve visited Brazil. They are extremely strong and flavorful, and just one will knock you right off your chair. For an appetizer, Carissa and I shared manioc balls baked with cheese and served on a bed of sweet chili sauce (pictured above). They reminded me of very delicious sweet and spicy tater tots. Devassa is another chain eatery with a similar concept, although a bit quirkier. The name literally means “horny,” and when ordering beers, patrons are asked questions like “would you like a horny blonde?” or “are you in the mood for a horny brunette?”

Nightlife

There are generally two areas that locals go to for nightlife: Lapa and Ipanema/Leblon. Both attract two different crowds. Lapa is where you should go if you’re looking for a casual but lively atmosphere where anything goes and everyone is accepted. All styles of music are played and it is truly a cultural experience. If you’re looking for something trendier with a more upscale crowd and sexy people, Ipanem and Leblon are where you’ll want to go. The venues are fancy, but you’ll be immersing yourself in a very classy and luxurious atmosphere. Before choosing your main spot for the night, pre-game at the ultra sexy Veloso in Leblon, which is where the most beautiful and hip people go. For something a bit more touristy but still enjoyed by locals, you can also head over to the Feira de Sao Cristovão. Here they bring the foods, music and dance from the northeast region of Brazil to Rio de Janeiro. While the party goes on every night from 8:00 p.m. to 5:00 a.m., the weekends are where you’ll experience the most music and dance. Just be sure to take a taxi home and be careful, as the area surrounding the fair can sometimes be dangerous.