The Acropolis: Greece’s most famous monument weathers the crisis

by Sean McLachlan on


Visiting Greece and not visiting the Acropolis is unthinkable. Set atop a high rock overlooking Athens, the temples here were built primarily to honor the city’s patron goddess Athena in all her attributes. The buildings here are some of the best examples of Greek architecture and have had a profound effect on the architecture of all the Western world. While I have a preference for medieval sites like Acrocorinth, and I’ve visited the Acropolis before, I couldn’t help but go back.

The last time I was there was 1994, and a lot has changed. There has been a great deal of restoration and the world-class Acropolis Museum has opened up.

Here’s one attraction that the Greek government needs to preserve as it passes through its worst economic crisis since World War Two. People still flock here and it’s a major reason why Greece is an important tourist destination. Tourism accounts for 18 percent of the Greek GDP and tourist numbers went up last year. Several sources told me there were two reasons for this: budget-conscious Europeans are traveling closer to home and people are staying away from North African favorites like Tunisia and Egypt.

Even though sites like the Acropolis generate billions of euros a year in revenue, the Ministry of Culture survives on just 0.7 percent of the national budget, and that budget is shrinking faster than the supply of Greek olives I brought back from this trip. In the past year the ministry has seen its budget slashed by almost a third, with warnings of more cuts to come. Museums are already feeling the pinch and now ministers, archaeologists, and site directors are scrambling to find ways to maintain their their heritage. There are even plans to lease the Acropolis for film backdrops and photo shoots to help raise funds.

%Gallery-146241%This last bit is actually nothing new. Archaeological sites have always been available for rent, but costs were enormous and most projects were rejected out of hand. Now the Acropolis will go for the bargain-basement price of $1,300 a day for a photography session and about $2,000 a day for filming.

Despite Greece’s financial woes, restoration and conservation are continuing. Funds are still coming through from the government and from the European Union. The most visible is the restoration of the pronaos (front inner porch) of the Parthenon shown here in this image by flickr user dorena-wm, who obviously had better luck with the weather than I did. This image was taken last year and now there is considerably more scaffolding obscuring the front. The photo I took last Sunday is in the gallery.

At the Erechtheion, where Poseidon and Athena competed for possession of Athens, the interior of the famous south porch with its caryatid columns is screened off as the ceiling is cleaned with an innovative laser system developed specifically for this project. In ancient times it was believed that Poseidon, the sea god, struck at the ground here with his trident and a salty spring gushed forth. Athena created an olive tree, the first in the world. The Athenians judged that the olive tree was more useful and so dedicated their city to her. The city continued to honor the sea god, though, and the Erechtheion is devoted to his local aspect Erechtheus. Athens owed her power to her great navy, and so it was smart to honor the god who rules the waves, even if he did come in second place in the competition for the city.

No reconstruction was going on when I went, though. I took advantage of Sundays being free to revisit the Acropolis. It was low season and bitterly cold and overcast, but there were still large crowds exploring the ruins. One family from Crete entered at the same time I did and took the same route through the monuments. The father gave a long lecture about the place to his young son and daughter. It was heartening to see how much they enjoyed it. They asked questions, told him some things they’d learned in school, and were obviously having a good time. They took dozens of pictures and I offered to take one of them all together. That got us talking. The father’s English was limited, but his national pride was obvious even through the language barrier. As we talked, his kids went off to take more pictures.

The Acropolis Museum was opened in 2009 to much fanfare and became an instant success. Between between June 2010 and May 2011 more than one million and three hundred thousand Greek and foreign visitors passed through its doors. The museum explains the importance of the site from earliest times through the Classical era and beyond. It’s probably best to see this museum before you see the Acropolis as it will give you a much deeper understanding of that most historic of attractions.

To combat museum fatigue, take a break at the restaurant or café. Prices are remarkably reasonable and floor-to-ceiling windows give a splendid view of the Acropolis and two of its buildings-the Parthenon and the Sanctuary of Athena Nike.

The museum is not free on Sundays but that didn’t stop the crowds coming out in full force. The restaurant, café, and gift shop were all doing a brisk business. Most popular was the third floor, where a reconstruction of the Parthenon sculptures can be seen. As the labels make clear, most of these are plaster casts because between 1801 and 1805 Lord Elgin, the British ambassador to the Ottoman Empire that then ruled Greece, got permission to remove about half of them. As you can see from the display at the Acropolis Museum, he took the best ones. Now they are in the British Museum in London, while several other sculptures were taken by other antiquarians and ended up in other museums.

The Greeks want their sculptures back. The British Museum says they took them with permission of the government that was then in power. Here is the official Greek position and here is the British Museum’s position.

The economic crisis has added a new dimension to the struggle to return the sculptures. While the plaster casts in the Acropolis Museum are very well done, seeing the real thing is always better. Getting them back would be a major coup for a country that has only had bad news for far too long, and it would help bring in much-needed tourism revenue. But with both sides dug in, it looks like the Greeks won’t be getting good news like that anytime soon.

Don’t miss the rest of my series: Our Past in Peril, Greek tourism faces the economic crisis.

Coming up next: The Athens War Museum

Australia rail travel a bargain for backpackers

by Chris Owen on

Queensland Rail Travel (QR) provides Urban and Interurban rail and bus services throughout South East Queensland in Australia. Looking to deliver a greater number of international tourists to the state’s regional tourism hotspots, QR is offering special savings for overseas backpackers who want to travel between multiple locations

“Backpackers travel to several different locations up the east coast and this new offer gives them the flexibility of being able to move from point-to-point in a quick and convenient way,” Queensland Rail Travel general manager, Max Kruse said.

International visitors who have a valid hostel or backpacker card can save up to 40 per cent off the normal rail travel fare for point-to-point journeys on Queensland Rail Travel’s long distance services.

“Queensland Rail Travel’s network provides the gateway to all the tourism hotspots including the Gold Coast, Sunshine Coast, Fraser Coast, the Whitsundays, Townsville and Cairns,” said Kruse.

Rail travel passes are also available for backpackers who want to travel between Cairns, Brisbane, Sydney and Melbourne allowing travelers the flexibility to hop on and off east coast trains over a six-month period.

With five World Heritage-listed sites and other extraordinary places in between, Queensland has lot to offer. Traveling in comfort onboard QR’s traditional and modern trains can make rail travel all the better.

Queensland Rail Photo


Food poisoning! What to watch out for in 2012

by Laurel Miller on

For many people–myself included–one of the most enjoyable aspects of travel is experiencing how other cultures eat. Even if you’re only traveling as far as the other end of the state, chances are there’s a regional specialty, street food, farmers market, or restaurant that’s a destination in its own right.

Sometimes, however, the pickings are slim, or no matter how delicious the food, the odds are just stacked against you. As Anthony Bourdain put it on a recent episode of his new series, The Layover, “…if there’s not a 50-percent chance of diarrhea, it’s not worth eating.”

Gross, perhaps, but gluttonous travelers know there’s truth in those words. Bourdain happened to be referring to a late-night drunk binge at one of Amsterdam‘s infamous FEBO fast food automats (above), so with that in mind, I present this photographic homage to the things we eat on the road, despite knowing better. Walk softly, and carry a big bottle of Imodium

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[Photo credit: Flickr user .waldec]

10 luxury hostels from around the world

by Jessica Festa on

While many people think of hostels as run down hotels with cramped rooms and few amenities, there are many properties that can actually make you feel as if you’re staying at a resort. For those who want comfort on a budget, here are 10 excellent luxury hostels from around the world.

Gilligan’s Backpackers Hotel and Resort Cairns
Cairns, Australia

Gilligan’s Backpackers Hotel and Resort in Cairns is without a doubt one of the best hostels I have ever stayed in. And if you’re looking for something a little more luxurious than your average youth hostel, this is an excellent choice. Rooms offered include 4,6,8,10-bed dorms, 4 & 6-bed deluxe dorms, 6-bed all female dorms, and private rooms. The accommodation has a resort-type feel, with balconies, a lagoon-style pool with a waterfall and palm trees, a makeshift beach with volleyball nets, and even gym access. They also have swanky nightclub that often hosts theme parties and hot DJ’s.StayON Beverly
Los Angeles, California

The StayON Beverly is definitely a step up from your average hostel experience. While there are no chefs or personal butlers, the accommodation is lot more like a hotel stay at a hostel price ($50 per night). First of all, they only offer private rooms with full sized beds and memory foam mattresses, free Wi-Fi, a desk, mini fridge, iPod-compatible music player, and even a flat screen television. Free waterbottles and spacious and clean minimalist design will leave you comfortable on a budget.

Broadway Hotel and Hostel
New York, NY

As soon as you walk through the front doors of The Broadway Hotel and Hostel, you will be enveloped in a contemporary design. The ambiance in the lobby is created using rich browns, dim candle light, and a fireplace, with the atmosphere continuing into both the 2-bedroom dorms and private rooms with modern wall art, European bed linens, and polished dressers. There are no large dorms here, and single person bathrooms give guests the privacy they desire, while the massage and rain shower heads add a luxurious element to the stay.

The Backpack and Africa Travel Centre
Cape Town, South Africa

Not only has The Backpack and Africa Travel Centre been awarded a 5-star backpacker lodge rating, it’s also eco-friendly, as it’s been awarded a Fair Trade in Tourism trademark. The rooms are stylishly decorated in an “Afro-Chic” design, many with features like skylights, fire places, and wall art, and include in-room safes. Don’t expect the usual unmatched bedspread look as seen at most hostels, as The Backpack and Africa Travel Centre ensures that all the beds in the room not only look alike, but also go with the decor of the room as a whole. The best part about the hostel is actually outside, as it features an in-ground swimming pool that will literally put you in the center of nature as it is surrounded by unique flora and fauna and the breathtaking Table Mountain. Enjoy the outdoor tile mosaic designs around the pool while sipping a cocktail and soaking in the scenery.

The Seven Hostel
Sorrento, Italy

The Seven Hostel is a property that is nothing like a hostel, aside from the budget-friendly prices. Inside, the decor is modern and trendy infusing neutral and Earthy tones with unique textures and furnishings. The rooftop terrace and bar is similar to something you’d find in New York City, with plush white couches and breathtaking views of the city, Gulf of Naples, and nearby mountains. Other amenities of The Seven Hostel include a trendy bar, a 24-hour reception and concierge for tour booking, a library and game room, free internet and satellite TV, and an outdoor solarium on the top floor for sunbathing.

Oasis Palace Hostel Seville
Seville, Spain

I’ve actually stayed in both the Oasis Palace Hostel Seville as well as the Oasis Hostel Lisbon and found both to be both comfortable and luxurious. The Seville location gets extra points, however, as it has a rooftop terrace and pool. There are also a lot of free perks, like Wi-Fi, city and cultural tours, linens, luggage room, a welcome drink, and a delicious breakfast including pancakes, crepes, breads, spreads and cereals. At night for a small fee (about 5 Euros), the resident chef creates local dishes like paella and grilled meats.

The Green Saman
Cali, Colombia

The Green Saman is more than just a hostel; it’s also a spa, yoga center, and “gastronomic sanctuary”. The venue is actually a renovated mansion that features a swimming pool, sauna, and gardens for outdoor relaxation, while clean and spacious dorms and private rooms are available inside. The hostel also offers unique and worthwhile experiences, like language immersion courses, salsa dancing lessons, cooking classes, molecular gastronomy workshops, and free multicourse breakfasts served with upscale presentation during the week. Guests will also enjoy the healthy cuisine found at the on-site restaurant, which was voted one of the best backpacker restaurants in South America.

Hostel International Point
Calafate, Argentina

When staying at a luxury property most people expect great views, and Hostel International Point provides some of the best I’ve ever seen. What’s great about this hilltop hostel is that you don’t have to go outside to see the lake and countryside, but instead have access to panoramic views from everywhere in the hostel, including dorm rooms. The accommmodation offers spacious 4-bed dorms as well as private rooms, all with bathrooms so clean you won’t be affraid to soak in the bathtub. And in the morning, a delicious breakfast is literally served to guests, allowing them to eat without having to clean up or move from the table.

Eco Resort Chiang Mai
Chiang Mai, Thailand

Eco Resort Chiang Mai is one of the most upscale hostels I have ever seen. It’s immersed in the center of a massive, jungle-like garden in a quiet setting, giving guests access to a peaceful, majestic atmosphere right at their doorstep. An expansive cystral-clear in-ground pool set among dangling palm trees add to the ambiance, which takes on a romantic atmosphere at night when everything is all lit up. Inside, the spacious and immpecibly clean rooms are decorated in a contemporary Thai design, and guests can choose from private spaces or small dorms. Free Wi-Fi, cooking classes, tour bookings, outdoor art sculptures, a movie theater, gym, and library are also offered on premises. In fact, the place is so luxurious they even offer wedding packages.

Siem Reap Hostel
Siem Reap, Cambodia

The Siem Reap Hostel is more like like a resort than a hostel, as it offers both dorms and private rooms as well as an on-site spa that features massages, facials, mani/pedis, body wraps, and scrubs for $35 or less. There is also a poolside bar and restaurant so that guests can go for a swim or relax in the water with a fruity cocktail, Asian-style meal, or Western comfort food. Other amenities and facilities include outdoor gardens, free airport pickup, free Wi-Fi, a game room, tour desk, daily happy hours in the on-site bar, and a $2 all-you-can-eat buffet breakfast each morning in a beautiful setting.

10 best times to break your travel budget

by Jessica Festa on

While it’s smart to plan a budget and make wise spending decisions, there are times while traveling when a splurge is in order. Don’t think of these instances as wasting money, but as investments into your personal happiness and enhancements to your travel experience.

If there’s a site you really want to visit

Whether it’s a museum that covers a topic you’re passionate about, a trek that will take you through unexplored territory or ancient ruins, or a historical site with a unique story to tell, you should let yourself experience it. No matter how much information a guidebook or website gives you, it can never compare to actually seeing the site for yourself. And if you think about it, isn’t the point of traveling to a city to experience things for yourself? When I was in Sydney, Australia, I had heard about a place called the Blue Mountains, and although I was a broke student at the time, the vivid photos and natural landmarks I kept reading about online made me realize that if I didn’t go visit this area I would regret it later on. I splurged on a coach bus and a cabin in the mountains, which allowed me to have an unforgettable long weekend hiking diverse terrain, getting aerial views of valleys and mountains, photographing unusual rock formations like The Three Sisters and Orphan Rock, and seeing firsthand why they call it the Blue Mountains (the oil mist from the eucalyptus trees creates a blue haze over the area).On a taxi after a long flight or when you’re pressed for time

I love to explore a city on a foot, as I feel it makes it easy to discover places and meet people you normally wouldn’t. Moreover, I firmly believe that regularly using taxis over subways and buses is a big waste of money. That being said, there are certain instances when the convenience of a cab is worth the extra cash. After a long flight, the hassle of attempting to navigate the city’s unfamiliar public transport system while lugging around a heavy bag just isn’t worth it. Furthermore, when I’m in New York city I often find myself rushing to catch the train back to Long Island, having a small heart attack as the subway’s digital clock seems to change minutes to seconds. I’ve realized that splurging on a cab when I’m really pressed for time is worth it, especially if it means I won’t have to sit around for an extra hour waiting for the next train.

To gain a new perspective

One of the best things about traveling is it allows you to visit a unique culture or city and experience life from a different point of view. However, if you spend your entire trip pinching pennies and worrying about transportation and entrance fees you’re going to miss out. Splurging on things like a boat ride to a cultural village in Fiji, a tro-tro to the slave castles in Cape Coast, Ghana, entrance to a monastary in Thailand, or a ticket to a Dong Minority Cultural Show in China (pictured) allows you to have a unique cultural experience.

On a hotel if you’re feeling travel fatigue

While budget travelers often opt for hostels, couchsurfing, and homestays, it’s important to clear your mind and get some alone time when travel fatigue sets in. The thing about travel fatigue is when it sets in, if you don’t cure it it’s very likely that it will ruin your entire trip, which would be more of a waste of money than splurging on a night or two in a comfortable hotel room.

For a ticket to an unusual or unique festival

Festivals allow for unique opportunities to experience events that do not happen on a regular basis. While the Winter Music Conference in Miami, Florida, allows you experience the world’s top techno DJ’s and non-stop parties, Burning Man is a radical celebration of extreme art and expression. The Carnival and Mardi Gras festivals around the world give people the chance to celebrate by dancing in the streets and dressing up in outrageous costumes, while the annual Stampede in Calgary, Canada, gives a rowdy glimpse into western heritage and rodeo culture. If you’re in a city during a time when a festival is happening I would recommend forgoing a tight budget and allowing yourself the rare opportunity you’ve been given. Another option is to base your travels around festivals and visit cities during times when you know you can attend one.

For the chance to get a great view

A visit to a new city is never complete without getting the chance to experience it from a great view point. While sometimes you can simply hike somewhere to get a bird’s eye view, there are often towers, incline hills, restaurants, and museums that offer these views for a small price tag. Sometimes, however, an amazing view can leave a bit of a dent in your wallet. When I was in Interlaken, Switzerland, I had heard the view of the Alps from the Jungfrau was unbelievable. Unfortunately, my Eurail Pass didn’t work in the country and local trains were expensive. I weighed my options, pay $215 and immerse myself in a place considered to be one of the most beautiful in the world, or save my money and buy a postcard. In the end, I paid the money and it was absolutely worth every penny to get a first-hand experience of this rare and serene landscape, not only because it was beautiful, but because it invoked a peaceful feeling of being in nature that I couldn’t possibly get from seeing a photograph.

When you’re really craving comfort food

While trying new foods is a fun and important part of learning about a culture, it’s not unusual for your body to begin feigning for the comforts of home. Many times, dining in a Western-style restaurant can be pricey, and depending where you are, you may have to travel quite a ways to find one. Depending on how bad your cravings are, it can be worth it to give your body what it wants so you can feel better and enjoy your trip. When I was volunteering in Ghana, Africa, in the rural village of Achiase, protein wasn’t very accessible. I was literally going to bed fantasizing about steak and ribs, and would have gladly paid $100 for a hot dog. Because this wasn’t even an option, I instead took a bus ride that was about 5-hours round trip to the capital of Accra where the mall was and bought myself an overpriced cheeseburger and a slice of pizza. It was the best money I’ve ever spent.

When safety is an issue

While this should be a given, it still bares repeating. If you ever feel uncomfortable in a certain situation, whether it be on a tour, in a hotel, in a city or district, or with the people you’re with, forget social graces and your budget and get out of there. Whether you have to lose your money and rebook accommodation somewhere else or hop in an overpriced taxi to get yourself away immediately you should never let money keep you in an uncomfortable or dangerous situation.

To try something adventurous

Everyone should experience what it’s like to have a heart-pounding, shriek inducing adventure, or something that allows you to prove to yourself that you’re capable of more than you thought. Whether it’s mountain climbing, trekking, scuba diving, or sky diving, think of something you’ve always wanted to try but have been too scared try and do it. I’ve been terrified of heights my entire life and still am, however, that has not stopped me from Bungee Jumping in the Swiss Alps, skydiving in New Zealand, cliff diving in Italy, or doing a Go Ape! high-wire obstacle course in Scotland. By trying these things, I’ve actually learned that fear will never stop me from trying new things, and I find being terrified oddly invigorating.

When you fall in love

I know some people may debate this one, but I’m a firm believer in taking chances and exploring possibilities so that you never have to wonder “what if?”. Throughout my travels, I’ve met many backpacking couples who had met on the road and have witnessed travelers making connections that seemed to be promising. When I was in Amsterdam, I met another backpacker in my hostel who I immediately hit it off with. After spending a long weekend together, we decided that it was worth exploring where the relationship could go and I booked a flight to visit him in Vancouver, Canada. It was an amazing trip, and we spent the next 6 months traveling together and trying to make it work. While we’re not together anymore, I have fond memories of the time we spent together and am comforted by the fact that we gave it a genuine shot. Sometimes it’s worth the price tag to allow yourself these spontaneous and passionate experiences, as you never know what can happen.