Freedom to roam: New Zealand by campervan

Well. It’s official. For the next three months I am officially living in my car.

No, this vagabond hasn’t fallen on hard times (yet), but rather, I am going to be embedded in the back of a 1995 Toyota campervan in the magnificent country of New Zealand, where, for the record, summer is just beginning.

While this isn’t my first campervan endeavor around “The Land of the Long White Cloud”, my first visit was as a single, immature 22 year-old fresh off of university touring the country with two other reckless American counterparts. Three boys, three surfboards, one decrepit 1988 Toyota Hiace, and the open road beneath our tires. It was the epitome of freedom.

Five years later, the circumstances of my New Zealand campervan expedition are decidedly different. Still immature but now a happily married 27 year-old, the reality of this contrast was brought to my attention at a supermarket where I had purchased some groceries five years prior. Gazing down at the black conveyer belt at my current purchases, I realized the 12-pack of beer and surfboard wax had been replaced by a 12-pack of toilet paper and 200 thread count sheets.

So why would a struggling, married travel blogger scraping to pay off student loans decide to up and move his wife to live in a van in a foreign country? Because in a land as scenic and rife for exploration as New Zealand, there is unfinished business to be taken care of.

So why buy a van? Why not just rent a car like most other vacations? Because even though buying a vehicle is an enormous layout of money up front ($4000 cash. Ouch.) you start recouping that money the minute you set out on the road. In the end, with a little cunning and a fair bit of luck, touring New Zealand by owning your own campervan is the undisputed most economical way to experience the somewhat pricey country.Though C- was the unfortunate bedfellow of my math classes during most of my childhood, allow me to lay out a few figures regarding the financial logistics of buying a van versus renting one during your campervan foray throughout New Zealand:

The over/under on renting versus buying is probably around three weeks; For a stay of under three weeks, flipping a van in that amount of time is simply impractical. For a stay of longer than three weeks, renting a van will incur charges through the roof, as evidenced by the $7800 quote given for my upcoming stay of two months.

Secondly, it’s a campervan, key word here being camp, an activity that New Zealand is incredibly well-suited for. Although I’m a proud American and a huge advocate for our National Park system, New Zealand’s Department of Conservation (DOC) oversees a network of huts, campsites, parks, and preserves which stands somewhat above that of the US system.

Average price of a DOC campsite? $7. With the cheapest hostel beds in the country running around $20/person for dorms or $50/night for a private room, over the course of 60 nights, you’re theoretically recouping a minimum of $40 per night, a sum which quickly adds up whether you’re renting or buying.

Finally, when you own a van, provided you don’t get it stuck in a river, drive it off a cliff, or experience any major mechanical issues (always a calculated gamble), upon leaving the country you have the option of selling the van back to the next traveler looking to drive and camp their way through the country.

So how do you go about buying/selling a car when you arrive/depart New Zealand? While the country has online classified sites such as Trade Me, Gumtree, and Backpacker Board, a decent percentage of vans change hands at the Backpacker’s Car Markets in Auckland and Christchurch. Sellers pay a fee of $85 for the privilege of being able to hawk their car on the property for 3 days, and buyers have a whole market of options to choose from.

Nearly all vans have been converted to include beds elevated on platforms to allow for storage of bags beneath, and most vans also come with a full range of camping and cooking supplies included in the price of the van. An important logistical note is that you’re going to need to place a phone call to your bank to let them know you’ll be conducting transactions from outside the country, and to also temporarily lift the daily limit on your ATM card so you aren’t left pulling out a maximum of $600 for seven straight days.

So, after three days of haggling, multiple test-drives, a curious encounter with an elderly German named Volkor, and lengthy sessions spent under the hood acting as if I actually knew what I was looking for, we finally settled on a 1995 Toyota Lucida with a nice comfortable bed already embedded into the back.

All that’s left to do is fuel her up, cross our fingers we didn’t buy a lemon, and head out on the open road.

Now where did I put those sheets…

Gadling blogger Kyle Ellison will be embedded in a campervan for the next two months touring the country of New Zealand in the new series Freedom to roam: New Zealand by campervan.

Adventure Vacation Guide 2012: Belize

Belize is the only country in Central America with English as the official language. The small country, measuring 180 miles long and 68 miles wide, is a popular vacation destination for tourists whose native language is English. But Belize is good for much more than just lounging in white sand while watching the shimmering teal waves roll in and out while drinks, ordered in English, are replenished. Behind the luxurious resorts and relaxing vacation packages, Belize is an adventure destination.

With the lowest population density in Central America and, simultaneously, the highest growth rate in the region, 2012 is the year to visit Belize–it’s still spacious and remote in most places, but it doesn’t appear as though this quality will serve Belize permanently. People everywhere are beginning to now catch onto what natives have always known–Belize is not only gorgeous, rich in history, and filled with Mayan cultural treasures, but the small country packs in a big punch with adventure and thrill-seekers. Inexpensive and lush, the untainted waters and landscapes await you.Explore Belizean caves littered with Mayan ruins. The ATM Cave, near the city of San Ignacio, boasts still-in-tact skeletons and pieces of once-blood-holding pottery from Mayan sacrifices; these were offerings to the gods during times of desperate drought. But there’s a catch to seeing something as rare as these remnants–you have to get to them first. Getting through ATM cave is no easy feat. You must first hike through thick rainforest terrain for an hour before facing the cave’s entrance, which is a waterway. The only way in, and out, is to swim through the chilly water in the pitch-black, damp cave with your headlamp serving as your only guiding light. After you’ve made it in and out of the water portions of the cave, relatively challenging climbs and tight squeezes await you as you journey through this spooky cavern.

Zip-line through the forests surrounding this cave and many others while you’re inland. Stop to observe wild jaguars if you can while in the Jaguar Paw area. While at Jaguar Paw, take the opportunity to go for a tubing trip through a cave. Hike through thick and challenging terrain and cool off via waterfall rappelling. Scuba dive down into the famous-for-a-reason Great Blue Hole, a submarine sinkhole that measures 984 feet across and 407 feet deep. Widely regarded as one of the best diving spots in the world, the aerial shots of this gaping Caribbean hole will make your heart skip a beat (just Google it). If diving is too much of a commitment for you, spend your time a bit more leisurely and follow a shining school of fish while snorkeling. Weave around the shoreline and throughout the inland rivers by kayak or go kayak sailing into the rising sun. Spend your time doing daily yoga at one of the country’s yoga retreats or yoga-friendly resorts, fully immersed in a tranquil environment, or test your boundaries with a sky diving, parasailing, base-jumping, or bungee jumping excursion.

Whether your on a shoestring budget or looking to spend your hard-earned money on all of the finest adventures Belize has to offer, you’ll find a sweat-inducing, adrenaline-spiking experience in Belize that suits your wallet and lifestyle. With a landscape like the Belize landscape, adventure waits outside your door with free admission to the mountains and beaches. And with organized companies like the ones you can find in Belize with minimal research, sky’s the limit for your guided adventure in this small, but incredibly rich, Caribbean country.

[flickr image via jayhem]

The Nomading Film Festival goes west

As many Gadling readers probably remember, the first ever Nomading Film Festival took place on June 11, 2011, in New York, celebrating travelers who film and not just filmmakers who travel. The debut was a huge success, with over 200 attendees coming out to enjoy feature travel films, live performances, food, drinks, games, and win over $8,000 in prizes. Now, west coast travelers and film fanatics will be able to experience this unique festival too, as NoFF goes to Portland, Oregon, on January 28.

Winter Recess, as the event is being called, will feature the same films as NoFF 2011 as well as the premier of “One Foot”, which shows NoFF co-founder Bassam Tarazi‘s journey to Everest Base Camp. Not only should you attend Winter Recess to see authentic travel films, but also for the price, as tickets are only $9 and include a round of beer. The event will take place from 12-4 PM at the McMenamins Mission Theater and will be followed by an after party that will benefit various charities, including Teen Living Charities, ProjectExplorer, 100cameras, and the Matador Youth Scholarship Fund.

To buy your ticket, click here. For a preview of what to expect, watch this video from NoFF co-founder Joshua Wolff. And don’t worry east coasters, the Nomading Film Festival will be back in New York on June 23, 2012.


Budget Vacation Guide 2012: Kiev, Ukraine

This summer, soccer fans from around the world will flock to Ukraine when the country co-hosts UEFA Euro2012 with Poland for the very first time. There’s no better time to visit the capital city of Kiev, which has spent the past few years beefing up its tourist infrastructure and recently unveiled a completely redesigned Olympic Stadium in preparation for the final match of the quadrennial European soccer tournament.

If you’re not a soccer fan, or don’t want to shell out the big bucks to ticket scalpers, Kiev offers plenty of cheap diversions. In the warmer months, the city comes alive with flora and fauna, not to mention a packed agenda of free outdoor activities. Lie on the beaches (yes, beaches) of Hidropark in the Dnieper River, or take a cultural stroll through Andriyivskyy Descent, advertised as the “Montmartre of Kiev”. You can even try scaling the Moskovskyi Bridge (but please don’t).

While Kiev has experienced inflation in recent years, it’s still a bargain compared to other European capitals. To keep things cheap during the games, try a short-term apartment rental instead of a hotel; check Airbnb or 9flats for listings. Food-wise, traditional Ukrainian cafeterias are a cultural experience as well as money-saver. Specialties like potato pancakes, stuffed cabbage, and dumplings will provide more than enough fuel for the games.

[flickr image via Matvey Andreyev]

My adventure travel year: a look back and a look forward


This was a strange year for me. I didn’t see any new countries but I still had some great adventure travel. I spent two months living in Harar, Ethiopia, writing a series about it for all you fine folks. I’d visited this fascinating medieval walled city back in 2010 during a road trip in Ethiopia and passed through on my way to Somaliland. The three weeks I spent in Harar in 2010 convinced me I had to come back and learn more.

This time, however, I came to settle in for a while. My colleague–local historian, author, and guide Mohammed Jami Guleid (harartourguide @gmail.com)–helped me explore Ethiopia’s Somali region and meet the Argobba, a little-visited tribe. Other highlights included feeding a pack of hyenas and meeting a traditional African healer. The best part of my stay, however, was the day-to-day life of visiting friends and making new ones. Harar is a small town and it seemed that by the end of my two months there everyone knew me.

Sadly, that was my only adventure travel in 2011. I didn’t get to do my usual long-distance hike, scheduled in late August right after my birthday. I like to do these to prove to myself that I’m not old yet. In previous years I’ve blogged about hiking the East Highland Way and Hadrian’s Wall. Hopefully I’ll bring you another long-distance hike in 2012.

My main adventure travel destination this coming year is the Orkney Islands. My family will be along for this one and we’ll be exploring these rugged isles far to the north of Scotland. I’ve always wanted to see the Orkneys for their bleak grandeur and archaeological sites such as the mysterious brochs and stone circles like the Ring of Brodgar, pictured below courtesy flickr user joeri-c. Last summer I checked out an Ordnance Survey map of Orkneys and found that the farm right next to it is called “Sean”. Looks like I’m fated to go.

Other plans include a short trip to The Gambia and another trip back to Ethiopia. I need to get some funds for both of these adventures so I can’t guarantee they’ll happen. If they do, you’ll certainly hear about it!

Of course I wasn’t the only Gadling blogger to have adventures. The one that made me most jealous was Alex Robertson Textor’s series on Far Europe, and of course Jon Bowermaster is always doing something cool.

What were your adventure travel highlights for 2011? What are you plans for next year? Share your adventures in the comment section!