Ten things adventure travel has taught me


The adventure travel bug bit me early, back when I was twenty years old. That was, I shudder to say, more than half my life ago. In that time I’ve been to many places generally considered dangerous–Somaliland, Syria, Iran–yet I’ve come through just fine and made lots of great friendships on the road. I’ve learned some things too. Here are ten things you might want to remember when you go on your own adventure trip.

1. Always shake out your boots before putting them on.

2. Never trust a fat man in a thin country.

3. The more obscure the language, the more people will appreciate you trying to learn it.

4. If you’re a First Worlder visiting the Third World, it doesn’t matter what your social status is back home, here you are rich and everyone knows it.

5. You are far more adaptable than you think.

6. Being there doesn’t make you special. How you handle yourself determines that.

7. Treat the old with respect, the young with affection, and everyone as an equal, and any culture worth visiting will welcome you.

8. You are not a member of the tribe and never will be. That’s not an insult, simply a fact.

9. You can’t fix all the world’s problems, but there are many little things you can do to push it in the right direction.

. . .and most important of all. . .

10. No matter what country you’re in, the majority of people are decent. Many folks who have never been anywhere believe this, and that speaks well of them, but the only way to really know it’s true is to go and check.

I have, and it is.

Online travel agency donates 100% of profits to charity

For those who love to travel, there is now a way to see the world while also doing a good deed. A brand new online travel agency, Teleotravel, operates under a generous philosophy and donates 100% of its net profits to charity.

Explains Adam Beardwood, the Founder and President of Teleotravel, “My idea for Teleotravel came out of a need to create a sustainable way to financially help charities in a consumer forum. That is, people and businesses can participate in ending extreme global poverty as simply as doing something they are already doing, like buying travel…My hope is to capture a small percentage of [the online travel booking market] which could potentially raise millions, if not hundreds of millions of dollars for charities.”

Travelers making a booking on the site can choose from a list of charities that they would like the net profits from their booking to go to. So, why do you have to choose a charity from a predetermined list? Because the team at Teleotravel want to make sure that these bookings are making a significant impact. Instead of myriad charities getting one single donation, a set group of specific charities can receive significant contributions each day. As of now, the official charity partners of Teleotravel that can benefit from bookings made on the site include:

Says Beardwood of the mission of the site, “My partners and I did not start this business in order to build up our own wealth but to help others succeed in rising out of poverty, may that be nationally or globally.”

To learn more or to make a charitable travel booking with Teleotravel, click here.

10 reasons to travel to Ljubljana


When I found cheap airfare from Istanbul to Ljubljana, I didn’t find many other travelers who’d been there or even say for sure which country it’s in. The tiny of country of Slovenia is slightly smaller than New Jersey and its capital city isn’t known for much other than being difficult to spell and pronounce (say “lyoob-lyAH-nah”). After spending a few days there last month, I quickly fell madly in love with the city, and recommend to everyone to add to their travel list.

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Here are some reasons to love Ljubljana:

1. It’s Prague without the tourists – Ljubljana has been called the next Prague for at least the last 10 years, but the comparison is still apt. Architect Jože Plečnik is known for his work at Prague Castle, but he was born in Ljubljana and is responsible for much of the architecture in the old downtown and the Triple Bridge that practically defines the city. While Prague is a lovely place to visit, it’s overrun in summer with backpackers and tourists. In Ljubljana, the only English I heard was spoken with a Slovenian accent, and there were no lines at any of the city’s attractions.

2. Affordable Europe – While not as cheap as say, Bulgaria, Ljubljana is a lot easier on the wallet than other European capital cities and cheaper than most of its neighbors. I stayed in a perfect room above the cafe Macek in an ideal location for 65 euro a night. A huge three-course dinner for one with drinks at Lunch cafe was 20 euro, and a liter of local wine in the supermarket is around 3-4 euro. I paid 6 euro for entrance into 4 art museums for the Biennial, and the same for all of the castle, including the excellent Slovene history museum, and the funicular ride there and back.3. Everyone speaks English – Sharing borders with Italy, Austria, Hungary and Croatia, Slovenia is multi-cultural and multi-lingual. Everyone I met in Ljubljana spoke at least a few foreign languages including English; one supermarket cashier I met spoke six languages! While a language barrier shouldn’t prevent you from enjoying a foreign country, it’s great when communication is seamless and you can get recommendations from nearly every local you meet.

4. A delicious melting pot – Slovenia’s location also means a tasty diversity of food; think Italian pastas and pizzas, Austrian meats, and Croatian fish. One waiter I spoke to bemoaned the fact that he could never get a decent meal in ITALY like he can in Slovenia. While I’d never doubt the wonders of Italian food, I did have several meals in Ljubljana so good I wanted to eat them all over again as soon as I finished. Standout spots include Lunch Cafe (aka Marley & Me) and it’s next-door neighbor Julija.

5. Great wine – Slovenia has a thriving wine culture, but most of their best stuff stays in the country. A glass of house wine at most cafes is sure to be tasty, and cost only a euro or two. Ljubljana has many wine bars and tasting rooms that are approachable, affordable, and unpretentious. Dvorni Wine Bar has an extensive list, and on a Tuesday afternoon, there were several other mothers with babies, businesspeople, and tourists having lunch. I’m already scheming when to book a stay in a vineyard cottage, with local wine on tap.

6. Al-fresco isn’t just for summer – During my visit in early November, temperatures were in the 50s but outdoor cafes along the river were still lined with people. Like here in Istanbul, most cafes put out heating lamps and blankets to keep diners warm, and like the Turks, Slovenians also enjoy their smoking, which may account for the increase in outdoor seating (smoking was banned indoors a few years ago). The city’s large and leafy Tivoli Park is beautiful year-round, with several good museums to duck into if you need refuge from the elements.

7. Boutique shopping – The biggest surprise of Ljubljana for me was how many lovely shops I found. From international chains like Mandarina Duck (fabulous luggage) and Camper (Spanish hipster shoes) to local boutiques like La Chocolate for, uh, chocolate and charming design shop Sisi, there was hardly a single shop I didn’t want to go into, and that was just around the Stari Trg, more shops are to be found around the river and out of the city center.

8. Easy airport – This may not be first on your list when choosing a destination, but it makes travel a lot easier. Arriving at Ljubljana’s airport, you’ll find little more than a snack bar and an ATM outside, but it’s simple to grab a local bus into town or a shared shuttle for a few euro more. Departing from Slovenia, security took only a few minutes to get through, wi-fi is free, and there’s a good selection of local goodies at Duty Free if you forgot to buy gifts. LJU has flights from much of western Europe, including EasyJet from Paris and London.

9. Access to other parts of country – While Ljubljana has plenty to do for a few days, the country is compact enough to make a change of scenery easy and fast. Skiers can hop a bus from the airport to Kranj in the Slovenian Alps, and postcard-pretty Lake Bled is under 2 hours from the capital. In the summer, it’s possible to avoid traffic going to the seaside and take a train to a spa resort or beach. There are also frequent international connections; there are 7 trains a day to Croatia’s capital Zagreb, and Venice is just over 3 hours by bus.

10. Help planning your visit – When I first began planning my trip, I sent a message to the Ljubljana tourism board, and got a quick response with a list of family-friendly hotels and apartments. Next I downloaded the always-excellent In Your Pocket guide, which not only has a free guide and app, it also has a very active Facebook community with up-to-the-minute event info, restaurant recommendations, deals, and more. On Twitter, you can get many questions answered by TakeMe2Slovenia and VisitLjubljana.

The best Italian restaurant in the world?

“Prego,” said the Italian woman sitting behind an elevated counter. She waved me into one of the dining rooms, bedecked with rich wood paneling and white tablecloths draped over the half dozen tables. I was given a menu, which listed the canon of Italian cuisine: sausage and polenta, spaghetti alla vongole, and a colorful and fresh-looking anti-pasta bar, among others. It would be perfectly understandable if you thought I was dining in Rome or Ravenna.

But I was, in fact, about 3,000 miles from Rome. The chaotic, but intriguing miasma of concrete, steel, and car exhaust known as Addis Ababa, the capital of Ethiopia, dwelled just outside the window of Castelli. The restaurant, opened, according to Rossella Castelli, the woman at the counter, in 1957 (though many reports have suggested 1948). It’s a relic of the failed Italian occupation. The Castelli family opened the restaurant and stayed here instead of following Italian troops back home.


I didn’t come to Ethiopia to eat Italian food. In New York, where I live, there’s an Italian restaurant on every block, many of which are sub-mediocre quality. I lived in Italy for a few years, where I ate the cuisine every single day. Italian cuisine has managed to conquer the world, to borrow the title of a recently published book. But when I’m in a place like Ethiopia, I’m going to eat the local fare.

It wasn’t until I read that Bob Geldof, member of the rock band the Boomtown Rats and the man behind LiveAid and other benefits to help eradicate famine in east Africa, said Castelli was the best Italian restaurant in the world that I decided I couldn’t leave Addis Ababa without trying it.
Besides Geldof’s superlative language about Castelli, Bono, ever the hyperbolist, has also reportedly chimed in, though tamping down his enthusiasm by relegating Castelli to the best restaurant in Africa. Brad Pitt and former U.S. President/peanut farmer Jimmy Carter have also twirled their spaghetti here.

As you know, celebrities, the great arbiters of taste and style in the 21st century, know what they’re talking about. Because they’re famous they have a superior sense of taste and style that seems to allude ordinary people. Or at least that’s what we tell ourselves. We rely on celebrities to tell us what to like. Especially when it comes to food. If it’s good enough for Bono or Brad, it must be great. Right?


I ordered a bottle of Ethiopian wine–called Gouder, which could have passed for rancid Kool Aid–and a couple pasta and secondi dishes. I’ve never experienced this before in a restaurant but the penne of my penne all’arrabbiata was actually under cooked. Al dente to the enth degree. The spaghetti with spicy saffron sauce was not overcooked, but the flavor managed to be bland. The skirt steak in a red wine reduction, though, was egregiously overcooked. The baked lamb, much to my delight, was tender and juicy and just about right.

Maybe the chef at Castelli was having an off day. Maybe she or he wasn’t even there. It was far from the best Italian restaurant I’ve ever been to (though, full disclosure, I’ve never been to another Italian restaurant in Africa, so Bono could still be right). If you’re in Addis, go to Castelli–not necessarily to eat well but to eat in a place that represents part of Ethiopia’s history. (It’s the only country in Africa that managed to rebuff European colonialism.)

Just don’t say that Bob, Bono or Brad sent you.

10 film festivals in the United States to check out this winter

When it’s cold outside, nothing beats staying inside with a good movie. Why not make the experience even better by checking out one of these United States film festivals this winter?

Sundance Film Festival
Park City, Utah

The Sundance Film Festival began in 1978 and is now the biggest film festival in the country. This year, the event will take place from January 19-29, 2012, presenting new work from independent filmmakers from around the globe. Program categories in the competition include U.S. Documentary, U.S. Dramatic, World Cinema Documentary, World Cinema Dramatic, Shorts, and Animations. There are also non-competitive categories, which include:

  • Premiers- Some of the most highly anticipated films of the year shown before they hit theaters
  • Documentary Premiers- Powerful new films covering big topics or by master filmmakers
  • Spotlight- A showcase of films that have already been successful at other film festivals around the globe
  • NEXT- These films are hard to categorize and their creativity stretches the limited resources of the filmmaker
  • New Frontier- With a focus on experimentation, these films bring together film, art, and new media technology
  • Park City at Midnight- For hardcore film enthusiasts who don’t even notice they’ve stayed up all night watching movies
  • From the Collection- Indie films from the vault of the Sundance Collection at UCLA

For ticket information, click here.Palm Springs International Film Festival
Palm Springs, California

The 23rd annual Palm Springs International Film Festival, which will take place January 5-16, 2012, is well-known for showing the most foreign Oscar nominees as well as for having A-list celebrities in attendance. Featuring more than 200 films from over 60 countries, special events, gala receptions, and a black tie awards party are all part of the fun. And, big name stars like George Clooney, Glenn Close, and Michelle Williams will all be receiving awards.

For ticket information, click here.

Cinema on the Bayou
Lafayette, Louisiana

The 7th annual Cinema on the Bayou will take place January 25-29, 2012. In their mission statement, it states that the festival is “committed to advancing the understanding of Cajun and Creole cultures through film screenings, film panels and cultural exchanges among French Louisiana, the United States and the Francophone countries of the world”. Attendees will get the chance to sample delicious Cajun cuisine and listen to local music while watching new and innovative fiction and non-fiction films from around the globe.

While the festival is free to attend, donations are appreciated.

Santa Barbara International Film Festival
Santa Barbara, California

The 27th annual Santa Barbara Film Festival will take place January 26-February 5, 2012. This event is known for being able to pick out Academy Award Winners, and will feature award ceremonies, black tie galas, celebrity tributes, and more.

For ticket information, click here. For information on passes, click here.

Trail Dance Film Festival
Duncan, Oklahoma

The 6th annual Trail Dance Film Festival will take place January 27-28, 2012. An open-genre contest for independent filmmakers, the aim of the event is nurture creativity and ingenuity. Panels of film professionals, live entertainment, and vendors will also be part of the event, which will take place at Simmons Center and Chisholm Trail Heritage Center. On Thursday, the festival gets things going with a “Where the Beer and Buffalo Foam” Kickoff Party which will be followed by film screenings on Friday and Saturday. Award ceremonies and an After Party will take place on Saturday evening.

For ticket information, click here.

Portland International Film Festival
Portland, Oregon

The 35th annual Portland International Film Festival will take place February 9-25, 2012. This festival draws more than 35,000 attendees and showcases over 100 international shorts and feature films. Attend parties and chat with the artists while viewing some of the best indepdent films ever created.

For ticket information, click here.

Thin Line Film Festival
Denton, Texas

The 5th annual Thin Line Film Festival will take place February 15-20, 2012. This festival aims to showcase a variety of compelling and creative documentaries that are high quality and relavent. Expect dozens of films from around the world educating about important issues and causes in a vibrant and historical setting.

For ticket information, click here.

Boulder International Film Festival
Boulder, Colorado

The 8th annual Boulder International Film Festival will take place February 16-19, 2012. This festival is renowned for showcasing undiscovered shorts, feature films, and documentaries that tend to go on and do well in theaters (many have even received Oscar nominations). Guests can expect a big turnout, as well. In fact, in 2010, the festival had over 16,000 attendees.

For ticket information, click here.

Sedona International Film Festival
Sedona, Arizona

The 18th annual Sedona International Film Festival will take place this winter from February 18-26, 2012. Attendees will get the chance to see over 145 independent films including features, shorts, foreign films, documentaries, student films, animation, and more. For those who don’t want to just watch film but learn more about the craft, free workshops are offered to everyone regardless of skill level.

For ticket information, click here.

Martha’s Vineyard Film Festival
Chilmark, Massachusetts

The 12th annual Martha’s Vineyard Film Festival will take place March 16-18, 2012. On their website it states that the mission of the Martha’s Vineyard Film Festival is “to produce community events that celebrate all genres of film and spark discussion, debate and action”. After spending his childhood watching television that gave no real contribution to society, film festival Founder and Artistic Director Thomas Bena decided to create a movement of new ideas and inspiration. For those who don’t want to wait until March for the festival, there is also a Winter Film Series on the first Saturday of each month that includes:

  • 5PM: Dinner and snacks followed by short films for children
  • 6:30PM: Live music and community dinner cooked using fresh, local ingredients
  • 7:30PM: Feature film

For ticket information, click here.