Why we love Hong Kong



Hong Kong is one of those few places in the world that just never gets old. A city rapidly expanding upward and outward, it’s one of the largest cities in southeast Asia, with a thriving cultural scene, solid infrastructure, robust public transportation system and top notch eats. One can spend days in the halls of the Chungking Mansions, stalls in night markets or back alleys of Nathan Road and still not absorb a sliver of culture.

And that’s why we love it. Each time we come back to Hong Kong there’s another facet of history or culture to explore, from the raucous horse racing mob in Happy Valley to the ultimate frisbee community in Tai Hang Tung to the Dragon’s Back day hike a stone’s throw away from the city. It’s like visiting a new, amazing destination every single time.

So as part of this year’s Chinese New Year celebrations, we went back. No, this wasn’t part of a press trip, a marketing bonanza or a sponsored event — Hong Kong has that sort of personality that automatically draws visitors back, like a good home cooked meal or a soft, down-filled comforter. Its memories stay with you in a way like no other place, growing stronger and finer with time, pulling you back, deeper into its bosom.

Over the course of this week we’ll be telling a few stories from our time in the Pearl of the Orient, from an ode to their public transportation to a look inside of the tradition of Chinese New Year. We hope that you stick around and enjoy the journey.

Feel free to follow along here or check back every day for updates.

Kung Hei Fat Choy!

The empty bladder: why hydration packs make great travel companions

I’ve never been into purses. Even at home, I find them loathsomely girly, and they completely jack up my bad back. When I began zipping all over the globe as a food and travel writer, a day pack was the only thing that made sense for my carry-on/on-the-road essentials (my clothes and other gear go in my beloved Dana Designs Bomb Pack).

While I travel pretty light, there are things I require be within close proximity to my body: passport, copies of passport and medical insurance, emergency contact info., cash, credit and ATM cards (always carry a back-up for when, say, the machine in Portugal decides to eat yours), camera, flash drive, water bottle, water purification tablets or filtration system (I’ve finally learned my lesson on why these are non-negotiable), pocketknife (don’t forget to check it before you fly), notepad, hand sanitizer, tampons (Ladies, do not trust foreign countries to have ’em), Kleenex-aka-TP, Imodium and ibuprofen, sunblock, sunglasses, snacks, language guide, reading material, itinerary, sarong for freezing bus and plane rides. These are the items I am utterly screwed without; should everything else get stolen, life will suck, but I’ll be fine.

Due to my somewhat misanthropic tendencies, I choose never to rely upon the hotel safe or front desk for stowage of my valuables.That, my friends, is why I consider my daypack to be an extension of my body when I travel. I remove it to shower, and to sleep (I’ve also kept it hooked upon my arm while sleeping, when I end up in some shit-hole with a malfunctioning door lock). My day pack goes out drinking with me; it goes dancing, fords rivers, rides horses, and climbs mountains.

It’s a bit of a pain (literally and figuratively) at times, but at least I know I’m in charge of my travel essentials. And yes, I look like a total dork, trudging from destination to destination with my big pack on my back, and my daypack worn across my chest, marsupial-style. But it’s convenient, and it doesn’t throw me off-balance the way a messenger bag or purse would.

I don’t do money belts or fanny packs. I find them too small to be of use, inconvenient, and uncomfortable in hot weather. They scream “tourist.” You’re not fooling those gypsy kids in the piazza — they know you’re packing under your Ex Officio shirt. If I’m in a sketchy area or crowded place like a market, I’ll wear my daypack across my chest, because it’s less likely to be vandalized or cut off my body. Sometimes, I’ll also use travel locks on the zippers (which is why having double zips on your pack’s stowage compartments is key). You’re probably thinking, “Paranoid, much?” but put it this way: I’ve never had a theft, and I’d much rather look lame than spend a few days stranded somewhere, waiting for the Embassy to process my new passport.

Over the years, I’ve experimented with a wide variety of brands and sizes, and I’ve learned that hydration packs, like those made by Camelbak, Burton, DaKine, and Osprey’s new Hydraulics line (coming to a store near you this week), make great travel companions. I always remove the bladder, and leave it at home. The zippered bladder compartment makes the ultimate passport/plane ticket/itinerary holder. It’s flush against your back, so it’s theft-proof while you’re wearing it. Documents are also more likely to stay dry in this padded compartment, when you’re inevitably caught in a downpour or if fording that river doesn’t go as planned.

Everyone has different needs, and I’m not loyal to any particular brand because by the time one of my packs bites the dust, there’s something better on the market (don’t forget to check the company’s warranty policy before you purchase). Because I’m petite- 5’2″, and 100 lbs., I’ve come to rely upon women’s lines to give me the right fit. It really does make a difference, and your body will thank you. I could wear a kid’s pack, but they just don’t offer the tech-details and bells and whistles of adult versions. They also tend to be made in obnoxious colors. Come to think of it, it would be nice if all those great-fitting women’s packs weren’t always pastel or adorned with foofy graphics.

I also require elasticized side pockets, a hip belt and sternum strap for serious day-treks, deep stowage pockets with zips, an interior key chain for keeping hotel keys handy, and a reinforced bottom layer that can withstand dragging, maximum weight load, and pointy objects. Top-loading packs, and designs with zips that splay the pack in two are just begging to be pick-pocketed. Also, if your zipper breaks, you’re SOL. I’ll say it again: Look for multi-zip compartments that don’t go all the way down on either side.

Purchase a couple of mid-weight carabiners to clip onto your pack’s front loop (make sure it has one, or the equivalent). They’re invaluable for toting items like travel mugs, wet bathing suits, a pair of shoes (knot the laces together), or small grocery sacks.

Now, go forth and travel. Hold your bladder until you get home.


Before you go, be sure to check out Gadling’s Travel Talk TV! This week, the guys are in VEGAS!

Use a prepaid travel card – International travel tip

Everyone knows about taking traveler’s checks when they travel, but what about taking prepaid travel cards? They’re easy and convenient to use, and many major credit card companies offer them now, like Visa and MasterCard.

They work just like debit cards, and you can use them the same way you use an ATM card. They also offer the same security as traveler’s checks without having to exchange them every time you go out.

Bonus: you can easily keep your expenses in check by putting a predetermined amount on the cards.

A snapshot of Hotels.com’s annual price index

How do you know if you’re actually nabbing a great deal? For starters, it helps to know what other people are paying.

Hotels.com has been compiling its Hotel Price Index since 2004. The info is based on average prices actually paid by consumers who book through Hotels.com. These prices also factor in any promotions (4th night free, 30 percent off, etc…). Trend data can be a bit dry, so here are some highlights from the 2009 report that was released today.

Globally, travelers paid 14 percent less for hotel rooms in 2009 than in 2008. The numbers work out to roughly what we were paying back in 2003, according to Nigel Pocklington, Hotels.com’s vice president for global marketing. It’s a classic example of decreasing demand plus too much supply.

Prices listed below are the average nightly rate paid for a room, plus a comparison of 2009 data to 2008 numbers.

Las Vegas:
$85; 18 percent cheaper
New York City: $199; 24 percent cheaper. “It’s unprecedented for a New York City hotel room to go below $200 in recent years,” Pocklington told me by phone.
Dublin: $122; 27 percent cheaper
London: $185; 18 percent cheaper. Pocklington notes that if comparing in British pounds, rooms in London were 7 percent cheaper, but with the currency fluctuation factored in, 2009 inventory was more like 18 percent less than 2008 prices.
Bangkok: $100; 16 percent cheaper
Hong Kong: $125; 20 percent cheaper
Sydney: $131; 18 percent cheaper
Cape Town: $130; 2 percent cheaper
Dubai: $185; 25 percent cheaper

I was surprised to see that a room in Dublin ($122) was roughly on par with Hong Kong’s nightly average of $125. Meanwhile, London and Dubai tied at $185. The question on everyone’s mind is, of course: What about this year?

“2010 will be a year of stabilizing, but it will still be a good year for travelers,” Pocklington said. “Shop around and book early. There will be attractive promotions throughout the year.”

As you evaluate travel deals this year, it won’t hurt to use this price index as a benchmark to see how 2010 is really measuring up.

Experience Tim Burton’s version of “Alice in Wonderland” in Cornwall, England

Tim Burton’s 3D version of the classic “Alice in Wonderland” tale — starring Johnny Depp as the Mad Hatter and Helena Bonham Carter as the Red Queen — opens March 5.

Since the movie is a mix of live action, animation, and computer graphics, you can’t exactly visit all the film locations and stand where Johnny stood. The live-action sequences, however, were shot in Cornwall, England at the National Trust’s Antony House. To capitalize on the inevitable interest, the National Trust is hosting Alice-themed events at the 18th-century mansion through October 31.

Events: Mad Hatter’s Tea Parties will be held on the Cork Oak Lawn every weekend starting March 6. Explore the house on March 16 and you’ll see Alice’s bedroom and other rooms that appear in the movie. (As part of the installation, the National Trust is decorating the rooms to look as they did during filming.) The White Rabbit Easter Trail, sponsored by Cadbury chocolate April 2 to 9, leads kids through the landscaped gardens, while a week-long schedule of children’s activities from May 29 to June 3 will include a gigantic chessboard with life-size pieces. Kids of all ages can learn how to play croquet at workshops held on July 21, 28, August 5, 19 and 25.

Details: Standard admission is £7.50 for adults and £4.90 for kids. If you’re a member of the Royal Oak Foundation (the U.S. affiliate of the National Trust), you can access the grounds and the house for free. The house, garden, and tea room have different operating hours so double-check before you make the trek. Some of the events, such as the Mad Hatter’s Tea Parties or Easter Trail, will cost a little extra.

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