Band on the Run: The Defiant Nature of Rte 4, Fort Lee, NJ

Ember Swift, Canadian musician and touring performer, will be keeping us up-to-date on what it’s like to tour a band throughout North America. Having just arrived back from Beijing where she spent three months (check out her “Canadian in Beijing” series), she offers a musician’s perspective on road life.


Fort Lee, NJ seemed to have the closest and most reasonable hotel we could get that was near to Manhattan without yet crossing the bridge (or tunnel). Seems to me that accommodations on the other side of the bridge go up about three hundred percent and so we decided to make our “Two Nights in New York” actually be one in New Jersey, one in Brooklyn.

We stayed at a little hotel called the Courtesy Inn in Fort Lee, NJ, just before the George Washington Bridge. It was on Route #4, a smaller highway that leads to the I-95 and holds the requisite number of hotels for travellers like us. It’s kind of an ugly service road, to be blunt, but I did find something unique about this particular roadway: its defiant nature.

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Yeah, you wouldn’t think so, but nature has come on full force on this motorway. The center of the highway is filled with sumac and goldenrod, wild grape vines and tall grasses that have been so long neglected that they have started to form a canopy across the center meridian that cascades over the left lane.

There is an abandoned gas station here as well. It’s almost unrecognizable from the road as what it once was as a result of the overgrowth. Perhaps this is how the world will look when we’re all gone. (Yeah, that seems to be my current theme and I’m sticking with it.)

The Courtesy Inn was a trip in and of itself. Filled with mirrors on every surface, I nearly had a heart attack when I woke up and was staring at myself on the bed in the mirror on the ceiling. Strange to see yourself first thing in the morning, actually, and it rocketed me into consciousness and far from the dreams that had been so consuming just moments before. I packed up and put my stuff in the van and told Lyndell I was heading for a quick walk.

She waited in the van as I backtracked down the motorway past a car repair place and a functioning gas station until I reached the abandoned lot. Only five minutes or so from the hotel but it seemed like I was walking into another world. If I could block out the constant rush of traffic behind me, I could easily have been in a remote town that was being reclaimed by Mother Nature on all sides – but, in this case, three of the four sides.

The old gas station and auto center was boarded up and the asphalt was cracked everywhere. The weeds and trees were popping up through the cracks, lining the lot with green. Even the fences around the lot seemed camouflaged by the weeds as they grew in and out of the metal weave. I took some pictures over the fence, rusted with time, and then kept walking to the next lot, also abandoned, that wasn’t blocked by a fence.

As I approached the boarded up structure, I almost jumped out of my skin when I noticed a foot sticking out from behind a gap in the building. The foot had a shoe on it and looked like it was just resting on the sidewalk. My heart rose to my throat but I reminded myself that I was in clear view of the whole busy road and it was the middle of the day. That was enough to settle my nerves and so I stepped a little closer and saw that between this small outer building and the larger building, there was a small causeway in which a man was sitting on a lawn chair reading a newspaper. He almost jumped out of his skin when he saw me too and his paper crackled his surprise.

I just smiled and moved farther into the lot, away from his spot, but not without noticing he was wearing a garage work shirt with his name patch over the left pocket and had a lunch box open on the pavement beside him. I took a few more pictures on the other side of the lot before coming back in his direction. I asked him if he worked there and he said yes, but then pointed to the garage up the way, closer to the hotel we had stayed at. I realized that he did not speak English as a first language when I asked him if this was where he took his break and he just stared at me uncomprehending. I didn’t pursue it, just smiled and took my leave. I felt as though I was invading his quiet time. This was his spot and I was just an intruder.

I walked back to the hotel parking lot feeling moved by the redefinition of space from a commercial lot to a partial park, from a public retail space to a private hide-out, from asphalt to green in likely just a handful of years.

Remarkable.

Nature is so powerful. Doesn’t take long and our lifeless creations crack open and get replaced by the life that belongs.

Right on.

Is it Safe to Fly in Asia?

When I was in Asia I often paid for an overnight train rather than fly in a rickety plane. My guidebook advised that Laos Airlines had one of the worst safety records in the world, and there was no way I was taking any chances on an airline with a bad reputation. And reading the news lately, I’m glad I opted for the slower alternative.

Msnbc.com reports that pilot shortages, a string of crashes, and air traffic growth are raising concerns about the safety of flying in Asia. More than 50 budget airlines have popped up around the continent, and if you’re thinking about flying on one you should do some homework.

Tom Ballantyne, chief corespondent for Orient Aviation magazine, suggests that potential passengers research safety issues and accidents for both the budget airline and its parent company. For example, the One-Two-Go flight that crashed and killed 88 passengers last week on Phuket, Thailand is connected to Orient-Thai Airlines — a company that has been cited for outdated safety manuals and once almost hit a tower in Tokyo. Ballantyne also recommends checking out what kind of planes the airline operates — are they new or old?

Indonesia has had the most problems. The report cites the lure of higher-paying jobs for pilots in the Middle East and other parts of Asia, as well as a shortfall of trained flight-deck personnel.

It’s enough to keep this girl on the road, that’s for sure.

Travel Insurance Policies Offer More Than Ever

As an accident-prone twenty-something traveling around the world, there was no way I was going anywhere without some form of travel insurance. I chose a policy that cost around $300 for my 10-month trip, and was pretty much only good for emergencies.

Although I visited the emergency room twice and got sick three other times, I never used the policy since most countries I visited had some form of universal health care. But at least I knew that if I lost an arm and/or I needed to be sent home, I was covered. Health care is always in the back of my mind, since I live in a country that doesn’t offer it to its citizens. As I contemplate becoming a full-time freelance writer, one of my biggest concerns is how I’ll find affordable yet comprehensive health insurance.

Well, the good news is that travel insurance is becoming more comprehensive. That’s a good thing for me, because my work policy doesn’t cover much abroad.

USA Today ran a report on new options popping up in travel insurance policies. The downside of all these new choices, the article claims, is that there are so many it’s difficult to choose one. Not a huge downside in my book. Many of the options aren’t medical in nature, like trip cancellation or trip delay coverage, but are nice to have anyway.

Read the article here for a full list and a breakdown of prices.

Lonely Planet Introduces Handy Pick & Mix Guides

The Lonely Planet has been my faithful companion on almost every trip I’ve taken. Southeast Asia on a Shoestring and Europe on a Shoestring are two particularly battered versions … they’ve been bent, dog-earred, used as makeshift pillows in desperation and clumsily highlighted while on bumpy bus rides.

And while I wouldn’t leave home without my trusty guide, I wish there were a way to make it more compact. Yeah, I know it’s just a book but for a backpacker with a shopping habit, a book that size takes up a lot of precious space and weight. On my southeast Asia trip, for instance, I could’ve done without the chapters on Indonesia, Malaysia, Burma and the Philippines — they just weren’t on the agenda for that trip.

But wait … there is a way to lighten up your Lonely Planet load. It’s called Pick & Mix and it allows you to download, save and print individual chapters. The chapters are identical to those in the guidebooks, and each will cost you between $2 and $4. And, you’ll get a discount if you buy multiple chapters at once. They’re currently trying out the Pick & Mix program so you can only get select guide books right now, but look for more soon.

Spontaneous Weekend Trips: Los Angeles, Part One

My spontaneous, solo trip to L.A. two weekends from now, Sept. 28-30 ,started with an e-mail. A friend who works for the City of West Hollywood sent out a mass invite about an event he is in charge of organizing. The Algonquin West Hollywood Literary Award Soiree is the first ever. “Great!” I thought, “looks interesting.” Then, when I saw Mark Salzman is the author who will receive the award, I thought. “Damn, I’d like to go.” He is one of my all time favorite writers–one whose book, The Laughing Sutra, I have taught and someone who has a humorous, interested eye on the world.

Next thought was, hmmm, I wonder how much the flights cost? After a visit to Travelocity, the wheels started to turn. Can you believe this? A round-trip ticket on Delta to L.A. from Columbus is $218.80, taxes included. Seriously. I was astounded. Skybus is now at $285 and that flight is to Burbank. After heading to Delta’s Web site, I saw a detail I also couldn’t believe. The ticket is fully refundable if it’s canceled within 24 hours of the flight. What?!!!

Even though the price was right, what about timing? The timing couldn’t be more perfect. It leaves in the evening on Friday, well after a conference I’m going to–and after the kids and husband get home. The flight back is a red eye that leaves L.A. at night. It will get me back to Columbus on at 6:30 AM or thereabouts, plenty of time to make it to my Monday commitments. This also gives me all day Sunday in L.A.

What about getting from the airport and where to stay? A good friend of mine who lives in Santa Monica was at a Dodger’s baseball game when I called him. “Sure, I’ll come get you and you can stay with me,” he said. That problem solved.

From the time I got the email to the time I got my ticket was about an hour. When I sat down to read my e-mails I had no idea that this trip to L.A. was in my future. Some details are still being worked out–but man, am I glad I didn’t try to figure out all the angles before I said yes. The West Hollywood event is open to the public. Anyone can get a ticket. Go the event Web site for details.

Still feeling skeptical though, I called Delta and talked to a person–a real person, to find out if the refundable ticket information is correct and to find out how often that flight to Columbus gets canceled or is late. Either she’s lying through her teeth, or she’s honest. She said she’d check.