Cuba Libre: The U.S.-Cuba trade embargo

It was five years ago exactly that Cuba became for me a possible travel destination. My colleague Lora suggested we spend our spring break there and I thought it was a pretty novel idea. I had been to Vietnam the year before during spring break, and learned far more by going there than schooling or Miss Saigon could ever teach me.

At the time, I knew next to nothing about Cuba. Even if you mentioned the Bay of Pigs, which I had studied over ten years ago in high school, I would only be able to relate it to Kennedy and Castro, but I couldn’t remember the outcome of this event nor the repercussions it had on U.S. – Cuban relations. What better way to learn about a nation than get there, live, and breathe it. I’m a firm believer in experiencing a place and its history and culture by going there, not by reading about it. I knew then that Cuba for me would become a reality.
So it was that the plan to travel to Cuba had been hatched, yet it was only last month that I finally followed through and traveled to Castro country. But traveling to Cuba involves far more preparation, planning, and forethought than an ordinary trip. That’s because of one, in my opinion very antiquated, thing: the embargo. The U.S. – Cuba trade embargo is one of the strangest things I’ve ever heard of. While citizens from other countries, namely Canada, Spain, Germany, and Italy, enjoy vacationing in Cuba, Americans can’t. Well, technically, they can travel there, but once they’re in Cuba, the embargo dictates that Americans cannot spend money there. The reason: the U.S. does not condone the Cuban socialist/communist regime led by Fidel and now upheld by his brother Raúl.

If Americans are caught spending money in Cuba, they could pay a hefty fine (upwards of $10,000) or be put in jail. For 50 years now, Americans have ignored the embargo and traveled to Cuba anyways. Reports say that over 200,000 Americans travel to Cuba every year, and this number continues to increase. One of Cuba’s most important industries is tourism, so they continue to grant Americans travel visas upon arrival (how they do this I will explain in a later post). While some Americans paid the price when caught, most returned home undetected by traveling through Mexico or Canada. That is until the Bush administration (in the last decade), when cases of fines or imprisonment increased exponentially.

Now that Obama is in office, there is much talk about easing travel restrictions to Cuba. Already, a bill has been passed to allow Cuban-Americans to return to their homeland once a year, but American tourists still have to wait, and word is that it may still be a long time before the embargo is completely lifted.

There is also, of course, the “legal” way to travel to Cuba. To do that, you must get a “license” (not a visa) through the U.S. Department of the Treasury. Americans who successfully procure a license to travel to Cuba do so by getting a letter of permission by their employer or school. Therefore, licenses are given to those who are traveling to Cuba for educational or business purposes.

Adding to the difficulty of traveling to Cuba is safety and money. Those who travel sans license cannot be covered by travel insurance. This is, thankfully, not too much of an issue as Cuba has one of the best health programs in the world, so if something did befall you, you could still receive care, but you would have to pay the fees in cash. Still, you can’t be too much of a hedonist and go leaping out of planes or breaking bones.

Cuba is a very safe place to travel – even at night, but if your American passport gets stolen or lost, there’s also no embassy to go running to. If you are in such a pinch, however, the much-guarded U.S. Special Interests building in Havana is your only saving grace, but it is not an acting embassy and will therefore look unfavorably at your carelessness – especially if you’re there “illegally” as a tourist.

Money is a whole other issue too. Up until last year, the U.S. dollar was a useless currency in Cuba, but it is now accepted at an unfavorable exchange rate. In addition, U.S.-issued bank and credit cards continue to be rejected by Cuban banks and businesses. Because you shouldn’t be spending loads of money in Cuba, it’s also not a good idea to buy tons of goods (like cigars) either.

… The embargo, safety, and money matters aside, Lora and I decided to go for it. While it still remains a risk to travel Cuba, I for one wanted to experience a place that is largely untouched by America. There are very few places in the world that has so publicly dismissed America’s capitalistic way of life. Based on accounts from people who’d been there recently, I heard that traveling to Cuba is a most unique cultural experience yet also eye-opening socially and politically. Having been to socio-politically different countries such as China and Myanmar, I felt ready for whatever came my way, but having just returned from my two-week trip to Cuba, I can safely say that nothing could prepare me for such an intense culture shock. Cuba, for certain, is one of the most special places I have been to, and I hope this week’s Cuba Libre posts can express why.

For a complete listing of my Cuba Libre posts, please click HERE.

Cuba Libre: Is travel to Cuba easing for some or all Americans?

[This slogan, the first one I spotted in central Havana, reads, “Revolution is: not to lie — ever — or violate ethical principles.” Is there room for compromise between the U.S. and Cuba? Only time will tell.]

On the heels of my own journey to Cuba, news has hit the fan with regard to lifting travel restrictions for Americans to Cuba. The latest news from Washington: Cuban-Americans are now allowed to travel back to their native island freely. This freer policy is designed to allow open communication between local Cubans and their relatives living in the U.S.. Therefore, in addition to freer travel, the U.S. is now allowing telecommunications companies to procure licenses in Cuba so that relatives can keep in touch.

For the rest of us Americans who are interested in traveling to Cuba as tourists, the embargo is still very much in effect: you can travel there (through Mexico or Canada), but you can’t spend money in Cuba. That is the biggest and longest-standing (50 years, to be exact) conundrum that likely still exists in the 21st century, but it basically means that Americans cannot yet travel to Cuba as tourists. They can, however, apply for a license to travel to Cuba for educational purposes or on business through the U.S. Department of the Treasury.
The formal announcement of this slight (but not full) amendment to travel restrictions comes just days before Obama’s attendance at the Summit of the Americas in Trinidad and Tobago, where the antiquated U.S.-Cuba trade embargo will certainly be a hot topic. Most Latin American countries want to see a normalized relationship forged between Obama and Cuba’s relatively new leader, Raúl Castro (Fidel’s brother). Since assuming the official role as Cuba’s President, Raúl Castro has already implemented his own freer policies such as cell phone use and television and DVD access, but most Cubans still cannot afford such luxuries.

I will be writing “Cuba Libre” posts for the remainder of the week, covering destination information and general observations and experiences from my recent trip to Cuba, so please stay tuned for more updates and travel information.

For a complete listing of my Cuba Libre posts, please click HERE.

[via The New York Times and Time.com]

Life Nomadic: What Couchsurfing in Haiti is Like

I’d never been to Haiti and I’d never tried couchsurfing, but since Haiti was just a $75 bus ride away ($67 if you have the foresight to pay in Pesos), I felt like I had no choice but to try it.

A search for couches in Port Au Prince yielded a few pages of results, with Natacha and Charlene showing up at the top. The site said that they both replied to almost all of the requests, and each offered a couch for up to two weeks. I e-mailed Charlene first because she has a son and I love kids.

Charlene wrote back the same day and said to let her know what dates I wanted to come. I replied back with a weekend and she said she’d be expecting me. It was so easy and painless that I wondered if it would actually work.

I had lingering worries in the back of my mind. Haiti was supposed to be a pretty dangerous place, so if she changed her mind at the last minute, I might be stranded. Besides, we all know that everyone on the internet is a demented weirdo (except for me). How much weirder do you have to be to invite strangers into your home for weeks at a time?

After a long scenic bus ride, I arrived in Haiti. I took a taxi through the unlit streets and arrived in front of a night club, where Charlene’s sister was waiting for me.

“Charlene is at Toastmasters. Come with me.”

I followed her down a narrow concrete alley (everything is concrete in Haiti), through a nondescript doorway, up a winding set of railing-less stairs, and into a small kitchen. As soon as I got in, Olivier, Charlene’s son, ran up to me, jumped, and latched on with a giant hug. Quite a welcome, I thought.

The power was out, as it often is in Haiti, so we sat and talked by the light of a single candle.

An hour later, I learned that it doesn’t much matter who you couchsurf with in Haiti. All of the surfers are best friends, and by signing up with one of them you put yourself at the mercy of a mob of hospitable Haitians determined to show you everything in Haiti. I ate home cooked food in four different houses, never once having to go to a restaurant.

Natacha picked me up to bring me to a club. I was terrified, not of the danger of Haiti, which I’d already begun to suspect was overhyped, but that I might have to dance. I am a terrible dancer.

We wove through the dark streets of Port Au Prince and finally arrived in front of what appeared to be a walled off apartment building. The only indication that it might be something more was a kerosene lamp sitting in the middle of the walkway. We descended into the backyard which held five or six large tables of people, a group of traditional Haitian drummers, and the flicker of kerosene lamps which served equally as functional light and ambiance.

Our table was already stocked with Natacha’s friends, some couchsurfers and some not, whose origins ranged from Haiti to Ghana to Belgium. French was the common language, but enough people spoke English that I was still able to be part of the conversation. When things got too French I would zone out and watch the drummers and the dancers that they attracted.

The next two days flew by. By the time I woke every day Charlene had already made breakfast and had coordinated with Natacha to plan my schedule. In just two days I visited an orphanage in the ghetto which Natacha takes care of, a Montessori school that she started, the landmarks downtown, a rehearsal for the Port Au Prince dance company, and a jazz concert. I quickly realized that I would have had a much different and less authentic experience if I hadn’t couchsurfed.

I went into Haiti knowing no one and left feeling like I have a whole social circle there. They prodded me to stay longer and asked when I would come back.

I used to see couchsurfing as a cheapskate’s alternative to a hotel, but now I realize that it’s a lot more. Couchsurfing offers the unique opportunity to have an instant group of friends in a new place and to really get to see it through the eyes of a local. I like to rent apartments wherever I go, but from now on I’m going to consider couchsurfing for the first few days to make some friends and learn about the city from someone who actually lives there.

To create a profile on Couchsurfing, check out www.couchsurfing.com

Side note: For anyone wanting a good charity to donate to, consider Natacha’s orphanage. I’m always leery of how much of the donated money actually gets to people who need it, and I can tell you that there is no overhead here. When they’re short for the month, Natacha takes money out of her own paycheck to make sure that the kids eat. If this is something you’re interested in, e-mail me at tynan.gadling at weblogsinc dot com and I will put you in touch with her.

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Complimentary destination wedding – it’s not a trick


The Ritz-Carlton has an amazing destination wedding offer for the rest of this year. And yes, the dreamy location above (San Juan, Puerto Rico) is included in the offer!

Here’s how it works. You call up the Ritz-Carlton and say “Hey. I’m thinking about a destination wedding,” and mention the Reconnect package, which starts at $269 (Jamaica).

Then, they hook you up with a $100 daily resort credit for spa treatments and/or recreation activities, a daily romantic breakfast for two, and a free ceremony including:

  • Ceremony Location (such as the above)
  • Wedding Specialist
  • Wedding Concierge
  • Minister
  • Signature Bouquet
  • Signature Boutonniere
  • Signature Location Décor

And the icing on the cake? They’ll give you a three night stay for your first anniversary at any of the following five locations: The Ritz-Carlton Cancun, The Ritz-Carlton Grand Cayman, The Ritz-Carlton Golf & Spa Resort Rose Hall, Jamaica, The Ritz-Carlton St. Thomas, and The Ritz-Carlton San Juan Hotel, Spa & Casino (the same locations where you can get married with this package).

Like it? Sound too good to be true? Well, you do have to get your friends and family in on it. The offer is for couples whose party will occupy (and pay for) 25 rooms for three nights. But you can totally swing that, right?

The complimentary wedding ceremony is applicable to wedding events booked between April 1 – June 30 and held between May 1 and December 20, 2009. Click here for more information!

Double up on St. Lucia at Ladera and Cap Maison

Start at the Ladera for three nights, and then move to Cap Maison for another three. And, there’s one rate that includes food and beverages for the week you’re bouncing between the island’s southern rainforest and northern secluded beach. For two people, the package starts at $5,400 – but includes a few aspects that translate to a 20 percent savings on your trip.

At the Ladera, you’ll enjoy an open-air Gros Piton Suite with a private plunge pool and unobstructed view of the mountains and the Caribbean Sea. You’ll also have all meals covered at Dasheene reastaurant covered, not to mention cocktails, wines by the glass, daily afternoon tea and a treatment at Ti Kay Pose Spa.

For the second half of your trip, a private car will take you up to Cap Maison, St. Lucia’s newest hotel. Golf, shopping and nightlife are nearby, and you’ll be comfortable in your Ocean View Villa Suite – with a private Jacuzzi and sea views. Wine and champagne with meals are covered, as well as afternoon tea, a spa treatment at Spa Maison and full use of resort facilities.

This deal is available from May 1 to December 20, 2009, though rates vary with booking date. You can add nights to your stay if you like.