A Canadian In Beijing: International Condiments & Conversation

My first day in Beijing was spent in complete luxury at the Comfort Inn and Suites in downtown Beijing. I’ve stayed at a lot of Comfort Inns across Canada and the U.S., but let me say that I was surprised by the bellboys, marble entrance, fish pool complete with many fat fish of various colours, plush towels, door-to-door luggage handling from taxi to hotel room entrance, complimentary “western style” breakfast in the morning and free high-speed internet access in the rooms.

I was a bit shy about it all, to be honest. I’m used to mid-grade to low-grade accommodations unless music venues are generous and set up the musicians (us) with plush beds to lie in for the night. Still, I’m not complaining. Sleeping off my jet lag in style was a bonus and it enabled a delayed first impression of this city.

The western-style breakfast consisted of everything you can imagine for breakfast, plus…congi (sort of like a rice soup, which is definitely not western but is delicious), baked beans with corn (an interesting choice that was surprisingly tasty!), some pastries whose content I decided not to brave (veganism and pastry don’t often get along) and wait staff that were overly zealous in the clearing of your empties.

I sat next to a woman from Australia while a family behind me chatted in a Slavic language that I couldn’t recognize. I asked one of the waitresses for the word for watermelon in Chinese and proceeded to have the typical conversation about where I learned Mandarin and why I have come here. She giggled behind her hand when I spoke and then tittered with her fellow waitresses behind the bar.

Just as I was leaving the hotel restaurant, I noticed the condiments were as international as the conversations. Here is an image of the two options: jam from Austria and butter from New Zealand.

It’s time to really be in China now. No more of this veiled arrival business! Off to the university I go…

Postcards Made from Panda Poop

Are you looking for a unique and environmentally-friendly postcard to send to your loved ones? China (where else?) has a solution for you: panda poop. That’s right, poop from a panda bear. Compressed. Into a postcard.

Faced with an ungodly amount of feces from the lovable creatures, researchers found that it could be recycled into paper, packaged and sold to tourists. And what better way to quite literally send crap back to your family while on a trip than a postcard made from poop?

What a (um) silly idea.

Shanxi Province–More than Polluted Linfen

Linfen, China is indeed one of the most polluted cities in the world as stated in my post on April Fools Day. That isn’t the joke. The mask give-a-way is, however, even though it’s not uncommon for someone to wear a face mask to cut down on pollutants, particularly when riding a motorcycle.

What is also true is that Linfen is in Shanxi Province and the province is worth an extensive visit. One reason to make the trip is because of the history that’s found there. In the province’s Wuzhou Mountains are the Yugang Grottos and the 51,000 statues that were carved in their niches beginning in 453. Several of them are Chinese style Buddha images, but Greek and Indian influences are present as well.

The province also has the ancient city of Pingyou and the tallest wooden pagoda in China. Besides the cultural and historic treasures, the natural scenery includes waterfalls and mountains, totally opposite to what one might expect when considering that one of China’s most polluted cities shares this same corner of the earth.

Silk Road in Less than Four Minutes

After the 10 rolls of film I took on a trek in Ladakh were overexposed by the professional developer I took them to, and after my camera was stolen out of my apartment in Albuquerque–twice (not the same camera, different cameras on two different occassions) and after leaving one camera in the trunk of a taxi in Hanoi, Vietnam when we were dropped off at the airport, I don’t take pictures all that often anymore. That’s why I am doubly impressed by travel videos. Not only did someone manage to hold onto a video camera long enough to have loads of footage by the end of the trip, the person managed to not get the video camera lifted or forgotten. Then there is the editing afterwards.

Here is a video of a Silk Road tour by Ameriklik that moves at a fast clip through East and Central Asia. I particularly like this one because of the added music, the performances and the photos of the people who were on this trip interspersed with the culture and the scenery. This makes me want to rethink my camera neglect–and head out on a Silk Road journey. There is a lot packed in here in under four minutes.

A Canadian in Beijing: Nightmare Travel Visa Just a Dream

I had nightmares about getting my travel visa for China. I imagined large halls filled with children and people everywhere, line-ups barely visible in the human density, thick air filled with the sounds of late-winter coughs and sniffles, hours on aching feet, shuffling along but barely progressing – you can picture it, I’m sure. My dream state was so powerful that it made me procrastinate. I put off getting my visa until it was just a week before I was planning to leave Canada for an entire month of U.S. shows making it impossible for me to apply for my travel visa from within Canada before my trip to Beijing.

You see, you have three choices: either you send in your passport via an accredited travel agent and then wait the four processing days not to mention the postal time before you get it back; you go in to the Chinese consulate yourself to drop it off and still wait those four business days (which works great if you live in a city with a consulate office); or, you go into a consulate office and pay an expedite fee in order to get it within one business day. I was forced to go with option no.3.

To be perfectly honest, being without my passport makes me anxious. I didn’t want to be without it for more time than absolutely necessary and I was willing to pay for the peace of mind to avoid the separation anxiety. As a traveller, I need it regularly. It is my key to being able to work outside of Canada and that key is vital to my career.As I don’t live in Toronto, I made the five-hour trip to the city and planned to stay a couple of days to connect with friends before hitting the road with my band again at the end of February and for the whole of March. I arrived Sunday night and then bundled up in the blustery cold and walked the whole two kilometers to the consulate early Monday morning. The walk was refreshing and I felt invigorated and ready for the day. In fact, I felt redeemed from my procrastination as though the early morning and the crisp air had clarified my agenda and brought me back to task.

The date was Feb 19th. Brilliant choice for an East Asian Studies grad and one who feels rather confident about her knowledge of East Asian Culture. Why? Well, Chinese New Year was Feb 18th this year and all of the Chinese government offices were closed for two days following Chinese New Year. And rightfully so!

When I arrived at the very locked and formidable gates of the Chinese consulate office on that frosty morning, I felt like an idiot. I stood there a moment in complete disarray. I peered through the rod iron and read the sign on the consulate door three times. I scuffed the slush on the sidewalk and squinted at the sun’s reflection on the dormer windows of the Victorian buildings all around me. I turned three hundred and sixty degrees and studied the roof lines of the neighbouring homes and business offices and noted the angles against the sky and how the turrets jutted upwards as if reaching for spring. I looked back at the sign one more time and then I walked to a nearby café and sat down to think.

There was nothing to be done except wait.

I extended my stay in Toronto to accommodate the Chinese holiday and I decided to treat it as the holiday that it was meant to be. I fell into reunion mode with friends and had a great time.

When Wednesday arrived, I assumed that I would repeat my Monday morning trek, but I actually stalled (again) and didn’t make it to the consulate until about three in the afternoon. I had no idea if I’d be able to pick up passport the following day, but my plans quickly depended on it. I was scheduled to depart the city the following morning, so I was playing with fate (and crossing my fingers) that I’d be able to pick up my passport Thursday a.m. before departure. We were scheduled to cross the border into the states for a weekend of Ohio dates. All this to say that this was an example of irresponsible risk-taking, which isn’t usually my style.

Why did I stall that morning? I’m not sure. The rhythm of Toronto had sunk back into my limbs and I had a spontaneous coffee date with a friend in the morning and switched a dinner date to a lunch date with another at noon. I was in the swirl of socialization and I was enjoying the spin of my own Chinese New Year celebrations.

The consulate is in a historic area very near to the University of Toronto, just north of Bloor Street on St.George. When I arrived, its gates were graciously open and I could see a crowd inside. I held my breath as I mounted the steps, expecting my nightmares to be accurate, and when I took my place in line – a line that was so long that it was spilling outside – I was only there for a moment when a kind gentleman behind me asked if I was picking up my passport or submitting for my visa. I explained that it was the latter and he pointed me to a wicket that had no line-up and just a woman behind the bulletproof glass ready to take my forms.

What luck! No one in line! Apparently, the same-day service is very popular but the overnight service is less so. I was able to drop off my passport with all of my documentation within less than five minutes. I received a pink slip for the following morning and was back out in the melting snow and sunshine before I could even really take in the surroundings of the waiting room.

The next morning, I picked up my passport in almost the same fashion, only this time the line-up that was spilling outdoors was for the wicket at which I had dropped off my passport the afternoon before. The pick-up window was perfectly clear! I could have danced for joy right there, but the stern and irritable faces of those in line made me control my feet. There was much coughing, shifting of weight, and audible sighing. I slipped out unnoticed.

Now I’m all set.

The plane leaves tomorrow.

Beijing… here I come!