Chinese Buffet – Part 12: Child’s Eye View of China

by Kelly Amabile on
Chinese Buffet is a month-long series that chronicles the travels of an American woman who visited China for the first time in July 2007.


What do you remember from when you were four years old?

Beth and I spoke about this several times during my visit. They moved to China when her son Ryan was just two and a half years old. And now he was about to celebrate his 4th birthday in Shanghai. His passport is almost as thick as those of his parents, full of stamps from visits to Japan, Thailand and South Korea. Around China, he’s been to Beijing, Hainan Island, Xi’an and went on an overnight Yangtze River Cruise too. And of course, he’s well traveled in America as well — from Florida to Boston to California, this little guy has seen a lot.

His mom often wonders about what Ryan will recall from these early adventures. She’s been keeping a scrapbook and collecting tons of photographs, so there will be plenty of reminders to keep the memories alive. But she still wonders, just what will Ryan remember?

He’s able to communicate with Mr. Ding and his ayi in Mandarin — he asks for apple juice, or to go to the park — always using the proper Chinese words. Beth knows these language skills will soon fade, unless she is able to find a way to keep Ryan learning once they are back in the States. Only time will tell. But for right now, the focus is on enjoying China while they are still living there. I loved tagging along, seeing the world through Ryan’s eyes…

One of the first things we all did together was visit the Shanghai Science and Technology Museum to see a 3D Bug movie:

Located in Pudong, the museum is home to several IMAX theaters and a new dinosaur exhibit that is drawing crowds from all over. But these kiddies — Ryan’s playmates from the US and Australia — had already seen the dinosaurs. They were back specifically for the bugs!

The film was in Chinese with no English subtitles — but who needs words when you’ve got enormous creepy bugs on the screen?! I think Ryan prefers dinosaurs and superheros to bugs, and I’d have to agree with him on both counts, but we all had a good time and enjoyed our silly glasses:

For the record – Ryan IS indeed Superman! He wore his cape on several of our Shanghai outings, always drawing stares and giggles. He’d live in that costume if his mom would let him!

But even when not dressed in his superhero gear, Ryan is a crowd-pleaser. Here’s an example of what typically happens when he and his parents go out. While Beth snaps a photo of Ryan and his friend, the young man to her left snaps one as well — a photographic phenomenon that foreigners in China encounter all the time! The locals seem particularly amused by cute little kids like these two:

As Beth and her family prepare to return to the US, she explained to me that she’s been talking to Ryan more and more about being safe around strangers. He’s become very used to this scenario of folks saying hi and asking to take photos with him. There is a celebrity-like status in China for a little guy like him — but it’s something that won’t happen with the same frequency every time they step outside their home back in the States.

Ryan celebrated his fourth birthday during my visit with his family. Here he is again — same superhero, different day — making his big birthday wish. He had a small dinosaur-themed party with only a few of his closest playmates. Many of his expat friends had either recently repatriated or were back home visiting relatives for the summer. The cycle of comings and goings is a constant in this international neighborhood.

It wouldn’t have been a true Chinese birthday party without some authentic “Made in China” gifts — and this one was the winner for sure. Ryan’s ayi bought him this obnoxiously loud egg-laying duck! If Ryan’s mom even allows him to leave the country with this one, it should surely be saved with his other China mementos — the bump-n-go action duck will be fun to pull out and laugh about years from now.

Interspersed with all the wonderful new toys, games and experiences of Ryan’s overseas childhood, Beth makes sure to allow ample opportunity for the activities Ryan loved to do before he moved to China. When he’s not discovering dinosaur bones or fighting off the bad guys, Ryan is given plenty of time to swim — he’s a first-class fish!

And not a fish-out-of-water at all! Ryan’s early exposure to the world has made him a super adaptable and flexible kid. I’m sure that regardless of what he actually remembers from his time in China, the experience of living abroad at such a young age has surely expanded his horizons and taught him lessons that will last a lifetime.

Ryan taught me a thing or two as well. His smile, laughter and sense of curiosity were contagious, and I fed off his energy. Sure, there were moments of pure exhaustion (Auntie Kel needs a rest NOW!), but overall, hanging with this special guy made me feel like a kid all over again.

An awesome feeling indeed.

Thanks buddy! Xie Xie.

One for the Road – China: Living Abroad in China

by Kelly Amabile on

As a sidebar to this month’s Chinese Buffet series, throughout August, One for the Road will highlight travel guides, reference books and other recommended reads related to life or travel in China.

If you and your family are considering a relocation to Shanghai or any other Chinese city, be sure to check out Moon’s guide to Living Abroad in China. The book is written by Stuart and Barbara Strother, who first visited China while studying abroad in the early 1990’s. They later returned with their twins in tow and spent several years living and working in Shanghai. Although now based in California, the Strothers still visit China and lead a summer study abroad program there for US business majors.

This handy guide is broken down into three main sections. The first portion focuses on daily life: moving with kids and/or pets, health, finance and employment issues. It is then followed by a section highlighting prime living locations, organized by province. And then there’s a helpful reference section at the rear, with all the nuts and bolts stuff that parents or single adults will want to know before making a move.

Chinese Buffet – Part 11: Relocation to Shanghai

by Kelly Amabile on

Chinese Buffet is a month-long series that chronicles the travels of an American woman who visited China for the first time in July 2007.

Now comes what I’ve been calling the Shanghai Shift. After a week on my own in Beijing, dealing with tummy troubles and all the usual ups and downs of solo travel, I had now arrived in a city where I’d be embraced by dear friends and the comforts of home.

And what better way to welcome a weary Italian woman!?!? Beth and Dan, my gracious hosts, picked me up at the Shanghai train station about 9 pm. They had just come from Da Marco, well known in Shanghai for its’ excellent pizza and Italian dishes. And they brought me a doggie bag! After snacking on apples and trail mix for ten hours on the train, this was heaven.

But had I sold out already? Only eight days in China and I’d reverted to familiar comfort food! So soon?!

Ummmm….yeah.

On one hand, it felt a bit strange — like I’d given up on the challenges of independent budget travel too quickly. In Europe, I had gone it alone for months at a time – hostels as my constant home. But this time, after just one week of “roughing it”, I found myself comfy and cool in a spacious Pudong apartment, sipping California wine by candlelight while chatting with two of my best college pals.

I hadn’t given up anything, but my vantage point had certainly changed. I was now going to experience life in China through a completely different lens.

Beth, Dan and their young son Ryan moved to Shanghai in the fall of 2005, signing a contract with Dan’s US-based company to work in China for two years. I was fortunate enough to spend time with them near the end of their stay in Shanghai. By the time this Chinese Buffet series ends next week, they will have repatriated back to the US, where they will switch gears to focus on their next great adventure — baby number two!

Much of what we did the first few days seemed to revolve around finding the right food to eat. With Beth pregnant and my stomach still acting up, we steered clear of adventurous dishes and avoided Chinese food altogether. Unfortunately, Beth and her new bundle had developed quite an aversion to all things Asian. Thank goodness for Carrefour (the obscenely huge grocery store loaded with Western goodies) and Blue Frog, a neighborhood chain with yummy burgers and salads:

After a solid meal, next on the to-do list was a little bit of pampering. Beth suggested an hour foot massage and pedicure to reward my worn-out Great Wall feet. Beijing had given my body a beating, so how could I refuse?

And really, what do best girlfriends do when they get together after not seeing each other for a long time? Beth and I hadn’t done anything like this since I’d been a bridesmaid in her wedding — ten years ago! It was all quite lovely, and seemed such a novelty to me — since we were doing it in China!

Beth, Dan and Ryan live in the Jinqiao Biyun International District, home to a large foreign population. Several shops and restaurants are within walking distance of their apartment (like the funky Starbucks shown above), but unfortunately I visited Shanghai during an intense heat wave — strolls around the neighborhood were an unattractive option.

Thankfully, we could turn to Mr. Ding, the family’s driver, who transports Dan to work and is available to Beth and Ryan also. Have you seen the way folks drive in China? Mr. Ding is the man! He navigates insane intersections with ease, making sure the entire family gets where they need to be — the airport, school, shops. I surely appreciated his air-con car service during my visit too!

And then there is Helen, the ayi. It is very common for foreigners to hire a local Chinese woman to help around the house. It took Beth awhile to get comfortable with the idea, but she eventually connected with this sweet woman who comes to the apartment for a few hours each day. Helen cleans, irons and helps prep meals. She also watches Ryan when Beth and Dan go out.

Both Ding and Helen are wonderful with Ryan, and he is comfortable with both of them as well. He’s learned lots of Chinese words and phrases from them – both Mandarin and Shanghainese, which is the local dialect that Mr. Ding speaks. It was entertaining to watch Ryan interact with them — and vice versa. Tomorrow I’ll look more closely at what life is like for this cute American kid living in China.

One for the Road – China: Balzac and the Little Chinese Seamstress

by Kelly Amabile on

As a sidebar to this month’s Chinese Buffet series, throughout August, One for the Road will highlight travel guides, reference books and other recommended reads related to life or travel in China.

Did I mention that I read an entire book while on the train from Beijing to Shanghai? While browsing at the Foreign Language Bookstore on Wangfujing Dajie in Beijing, I came across a copy of Balzac and the Little Chinese Seamstress. Since my backpack was already overloaded with guidebooks, I really had no business buying another book, but this tiny paperback was whispering to me. After I learned that the plot revolved around a secret trunk of forbidden books, I knew I had to have it.

The tale begins in the summer of 1968, when two boys, both sons of doctors, are sent to a “re-education camp” during the height of Mao’s Cultural Revolution. The story revolves around their friendship, the beautiful little seamstress and a mysterious collection of Western classics, hidden in a suitcase in the home of their friend “Four Eyes”. Anyone with a passion for literature will probably find this historical novel to be a quick and enjoyable read. (It’s perfect reading material for an all day train trip through China too!) Written by Dai Sijie, a Chinese filmmaker who has lived in France since 1984, a movie version of the book opened the Cannes Film Festival in 2002.

Chinese Buffet – Part 10: Day Train to Shanghai

by Kelly Amabile on
Chinese Buffet is a month-long series that chronicles the travels of an American woman who visited China for the first time in July 2007.


When I originally decided that I was going to take a train from Beijing to Shanghai, I figured I’d take the night train, since it’s inexpensive and saves time by transporting you while you sleep. I’d done this to save time and money on several European overnight journeys in the past. But I realized that on this China trip, I wasn’t really in a rush. And I’m a big fan of train travel — I enjoy the experience of staring aimlessly out the window for hours, reading a book or catching up on journal writing.

Since this was my very first train trip in China, and I had the time to spare, I decided to investigate day train options. Seat 61 alerted me to news of the brand new express electric train that began daily runs between the two cities in April 2007. I decided that the D31 bullet train would be the way I’d go.

Budget backpackers on a tight schedule and no extra RMB might skip this pricier option, but since I’d only spent $30 on my four nights in the hutong hostel, I decided that the “splurge” for this train ride was worth it. At 327 RMB for a second class ticket, the D31 ten-hour trip would set me back a whopping $43 bucks. I pay more than twice that for a lousy 4-hour Amtrak from NYC to DC!

But before I get too excited, let me rewind to the ticket purchase process:

Although I didn’t have to persevere as long as Ember and her pals did when purchasing the ticket, it was a confusing process that could potentially cause major headaches, especially if you’re planning to buy on your own. I had heard about rules regarding when you can buy (usually only five days in advance if not purchasing through a travel agency) and so I waited till mid-week, and then feared I had let too much time pass. Thank goodness for my wonderful Mandarin-fluent Couchsurfing host, who sent me off to the main train station with my ticket purchase request written out in Chinese characters.

(Model of Beijing Zhan from the Urban Planning Exhibition – just imagine loads of folks queued up out front!)

It was early morning and the station was swarming with people. I didn’t know about the English language lines, so I just picked one queue from among the millions and waited my turn as best I could. A few folks cut ahead of me, and others just stared. I asked a few young Chinese students if I was on the right line and they said it didn’t matter, I would be fine on any line. And I was — but I think it was just good luck! Eventually I got to the window clerk, showed my precious piece of paper, received a nod, paid up and was given a small orange ticket that said D31 and showed the proper departure date. Relief! If only I had remembered to ask for a window seat!!!

A few days later I made my way back to the station. I was pleasantly surprised to find this comfy setup when I arrived ridiculously early for my 10:50 departure:

I verified with the cafe manager that I was in the right place and then settled down with a cold latte, amusing myself with the English translations of other items offered on the menu: Home gruel, Mexico popcorn, Turkey West disabilities, Toronto allocated winter hamburger fries. I munched on some of my own homemade trail mix instead.

By about 10 am the waiting room was packed and I soon befriended Bobby, a 12-year-old from Beijing who spoke excellent English. He was traveling with his cousin and grandparents, and it was cute how his grandfather motioned for Bobby to come sit next to me, and then began video-recording us as we chatted.

Bobby took me under his wing, asking me all sorts of questions about where I was from and where I was going. We talked a lot about American movies, as he had just seen the new Transformers film. He asked to see my train ticket:

“The train to Shanghai takes eight minutes,” Bobby explained.

“Wow! That is really fast!” I smiled at him, hinting with a wink, so that he would realize his mistake.

He giggled. “Oh!! I mean eight hours! But it used to take 15. Now they have faster trains.”

Bobby and his grandfather escorted me to the next room when it was time to board. I had my own bodyguard buddies! They were waiting for a different train that would take them to the coast. We said our goodbyes and Bobby waved behind me for awhile, as if old pals were parting ways. The last remaining nerves I had about the train trip were gone. I boarded and made myself as comfortable as I could in my middle seat:

The whole point of taking the day train was so that I could SEE things, but that proved to be quite challenging from where my seat was located. I made the best of it and was rewarded about an hour later, when the gentleman on the aisle of our row disembarked at the first stop. (The D31 only stopped two or three times the entire day — I can’t recall what the first stop was, but it did stop in Xuzhou later in the day.)

I still didn’t have a window seat, but I was happy with an “upgrade” to the now vacant aisle seat. I got up every hour or so and would walk to the end of the car, where I could stretch my legs and do my window staring. The landscape consisted mostly of cornfields and construction:

The train itself was very clean and comfortable. But as the day progressed, so did the smells. A woman across the aisle from me pulled a whole cooked chicken out of her purse at one point and just started chowing down on it. I’m sure it was quite yummy, but after awhile all the food smells started to linger. The train staff would move through the cars every hour or so, collecting new trash. I noticed these bags after awhile, piled up where I had been standing to look out the window:

No more landscape gazing for me. I snoozed for a bit, read a great short novel, and then pulled out my collection of compact Shanghai guidebooks. In only a few more hours I’d arrive at my next destination: