Himalayan High: Kathmandu – Gateway to the Himalaya

by Kraig Becker on

Whether you’re headed to Everest Base Camp, hiking the Annapurna Circuit, or continuing your journey on to Bhutan or Tibet, you’ll invariably have to go through Kathmandu, the colorful, chaotic, and at times confounding, capital of Nepal. It is truly the gateway to the Himalaya, offering travelers, backpackers, and climbers access to a host of adventure opportunities, with the world’s most spectacular scenery as a jaw-dropping backdrop.

From the time you leave Tribhuvan International Airport, the city is an assault on the senses, with the constant noise of traffic, the smell of incense (often used to counter the smell of trash), and the sights of the busy market places, awash in a myriad of bright, garish colors. The narrow, twisty streets are clogged with cars, the sidewalks are teeming with people, and air is thick with smog. But despite all of that, there is a certain allure to the place. An undeniable energy that hints at the adventures that lie ahead.

For more than 2000 years, Kathmandu has been a crossroads of trade and culture, and that is still reflected in its make-up today. Hindu and Buddhist temples are a common sight throughout the city, and the population is a very cosmopolitan mix of Nepali, Tibetan, and Indian people, with a healthy dose of ex-pats from around the globe thrown in as well. Walking the streets of Kathmandu, I heard a dozen different languages being spoken, and saw people representing cultures from around the globe, which only further enhanced the city’s reputation as a destination for globetrotters and adventurers alike. A visit to Kathmandu is a bit of an adventure in and of itself actually, as even before you head to the mountains, you’ll have to learn to deal with discomfort. In the spring, when the climbing and trekking season begins, travelers descend on the city in droves, over taxing an already strained infrastructure. As a result, rolling blackouts are a daily occurrence, and worse yet, the hot, dry, and dusty conditions, prevalent in the months before the arrival of the monsoon, can have an adverse effect on the water supply. It was not uncommon to turn on the faucets or shower in my hotel room, only to find that the water was a lovely shade of brown.

But perhaps the biggest challenge to travel in Kathmandu are the Maoist rebels, who frequently call for general strikes in protest of the current government. These strikes are a disruption to both commuting and commerce throughout the city, bringing the place to a standstill, while Maoist supporters rally to their cause in large numbers. The strikes can last for days, and be crippling to business. Worse yet, they can strand travelers in their hotels and prevent them from departing the city as planned. While I was in Kathmandu we received word of an impending strike the morning we were scheduled to leave for the Himalaya, and as a result, we were up ahead of the sun in order to catch a bus to the airport, before the streets could become clogged with traffic and protesters. That bit of planning put us in the terminal hours before our flight to Lukla, but allowed us to get out of the city on schedule.

The city isn’t just a series of challenges for visitors however, and no trip o Kathmandu is complete without a visit to Thamel, a popular area for travelers looking for good places to eat, shop, and take in some of the local culture. This popular tourist district is a maze of narrow streets, but offers up all kinds of unique experiences, including local bakeries, street vendors, and shops selling hand crafted items of all kinds. You’ll want to be wary of the beggars and pickpockets that frequent this part of town however, and I was approached on more than one occasion with offers to sell me hash as well.

Thamel is a great place for climbers and trekkers to pick up that last piece of gear they need before they head out to the mountains, as gear shops line the streets, offering cheap prices on authentic and knockoff equipment from North Face, Mountain Hardwear, and Patagonia alike. You’ll also find plenty of prayer flags, statues of Buddha, and replica prayer wheels mixed in with the backpacks and trekking poles, and when you’re finished shopping, you can grab a bite to eat from a variety of restaurants with cuisines from around the globe. I’d recommend stopping by the Rum Doodle, which is famous for its steaks, and the fact that Everest summitteers eat for free.

A short walk from Thamel is Durbar Square, a perfect place to soak up some of the history of Kathmandu. There are over 50 temples and palaces in this district alone, each with its own unique architecture and character. And for a bit of tranquility in the middle of this noisy and chaotic city, stop by the beautiful, and blissfully quiet, Garden of Dreams, which is also not far from Thamel, but feels like it is a million miles away with its carefully groomed lawns and colorful flower gardens.

But really, all of these experiences in Kathmandu, both good and bad, are just a prelude to what really brings you to Nepal. A Himalayan adventure of a lifetime. In my case, that meant a trek to Everest Base Camp and a once in a lifetime hike through the most incredible scenery on the planet. Soon, I would trade the heat and smog of the city for clear blue skies, roaring glacial rivers, and incredibly thin mountain air. Something I was more than ready to experience after two days in the Nepali capital.

Next: Lukla’s Tenzing-Hillary Airport

Himalayan High: A trek to Everest Base Camp

by Kraig Becker on

More than any other mountain, Mount Everest has always held an undeniable allure amongst the general public. Ever since it was first surveyed back in 1856, we’ve been fascinated by the massive peak that rises 29,029 feet above the Earth’s surface. Later, the world would hold its collective breath while explorers such as George Mallory and Andrew Irvine challenged the mountain, just because it was there. And later we would cheer when a young man from New Zealand, named Edmund Hillary, and his climbing partner from Nepal, Tenzing Norgay, stood atop the summit for the first time. The fascination turned a bit morbid when Jon Krakauer’s Into Thin Air told the tale of the that tragic 1996 climbing season during which 15 people lost their lives on the mountain. But that best selling book reintroduced a new generation to Everest, keeping its mystique alive and as strong as ever.

Climbing the mountain is an expensive and challenging endeavor, costing upwards of $50,000 and requiring a two month commitment to complete. Not many of us have that kind of time on our hands, not to mention that much disposable income, which makes it highly unlikely that we’ll ever stand on the summit ourselves. But the desire to see the mountain runs strong amongst adventure travelers, and each year hundreds of them make the trek to Everest Base Camp, just to experience a part of the mountain for themselves.

In April I had the privilege to make that trek for myself, spending 12 days hiking in the Khumbu Valley of Nepal, and ultimately arriving at Base Camp, located at 17,600 feet. Along the way, I passed through mountain villages, stayed in traditional teahouses, and experienced the Himalayan culture first hand, and all the while the stunning snow capped mountains of the region served as a breathtaking backdrop. The trip turned out to be everything I had hoped for and more, and while it isn’t an easy journey, for those who have always wanted to make it, it is definitely worth the hike.

Over the next few weeks, I’ll be sharing my experiences from the trek with Gadling readers. Hopefully I’ll be able to convey to you, in some small way, the sense of adventure and wonder that a walk in the Himalaya can produce. And that adventure starts in Kathmandu, the capital of Nepal, and the gateway to those mountains.

Next: Kathmandu: Gateway to the Himalaya

Portland’s Hotel Modera reviewed

by Laurel Miller on

Portland, Oregon, knows it’s pretty damn cool, which is why the city has garnered a rep for having a bit of a ‘tude. Let’s just say you should study up on your coffee order before getting in line.

Blissfully free of hipster snark, however, lies downtown’s funky Hotel Modera, a two-year-old addition to the area’s eclectic mix of venerable and boutique properties. Another selling point: Modera has ($27/day in summer)) valet service, removing the pain from downtown Portland’s notoriously scarce parking. Check-in was prompt, and every staff member I encountered during my brief stay was genuinely friendly and helpful. The twenty-four hour concierge service and business center are useful for night owls, businesspeople, and insomniacs. Asthmatics like me and healthy types will appreciate that it’s a 100% non-smoking property.

A member of Small Luxury Hotels of the World, a group of which I am fond,
Modera’s butt-ugly, nondescript, colorless exterior is deceptive. Built in 1962, it was originally a Days Inn, and then the Portland Inn City Center. But ah, inside lies a colorful, groovy oasis full of local art, Italian marble, and polished walnut floors. Fusion jazz emanates from hidden speakers.

Modera’s decor may not be to everyone’s taste. Done up in textural and tonal variations of white, orange, chocolate, and red, it looks kind of like the love child of Ikea and the Brady Bunch house. I’m not a Danish Modern person, but for some reason, I found this hotel fun, without trying to be. It just suits the utter weirdness and iconoclastic nature of Portland.My premium suite room, while small by some standards, had a nice, open layout, filled with light and glam trappings, and sensor-controlled heat, AC, and entry lights. The front room contained a dining table, LCD 32-inch flat screen TV, and a nice little desk/office area, with an iPod docking station and free Wifi. Unfortunately, I couldn’t find any electrical outlets in which to plug my laptop.

The sunny bedroom featured a comfy King, with quality linens and loads of pillows; another flat screen, and a great view of downtown. The faux lynx bed throw and gigantic polka dotted carpet were a bit over the top, but the spacious, spotless, marbled-tiled bathroom made up for it. The open shower had two heads- one a European-style, and I loved the yummy, blood-orange-scented Tarroco bar of soap, shampoo, conditioner, and bath gel, which somehow found their way into my duffel bag.

Room rates vary seasonally and according to local events, but nightly averages per person for summer are $179/Premiere City King room, $189/Premiere Garden King, $199/Premiere Double Queen, and $289/Premiere King Suite.

What’s nice about Modera’s location is that it’s centrally located (but safe), yet a few blocks off of the retail corridor of Pioneer Square, and about 20 blocks from the boutiques, galleries, restaurants, and bars of the vibrant Pearl District (the free Portland StreetCar is one block from the hotel if you want a lift). Parts of lower downtown and Pioneer Square are like running a gauntlet of panhandlers and obnoxious, punky street kids. Ignore them, and focus your attention on the collective of glorious, multi-ethnic food carts clustered nearby, as well as other locations downtown.

The 174-room hotel is a peaceful oasis from all the bustle, made more so by an attractive courtyard that provides outdoor seating for the hotel’s Mediterranean-influenced restaurant, Nel Centro (helmed by acclaimed local chef David Machado). The eye candy, however, is Portland’s first “living wall,” a verdant, sustainable backdrop covered with ferns, moss, and other native plants. At night, fire pits light the courtyard, which is packed with guests and locals, who come for Nel Centro’s screaming deal of a Happy Hour. From four to six, cocktails and wine are five dollars a glass, microbrews are four, and three to seven bucks will get you pomme frites with harissa ketchup, a lamb burger with peppers and feta, or a seasonal pizza. If it’s chilly outside, seat yourself at the lively square bar, where you still have a courtyard view.

Modera is walking distance to the many arts and cultural events held within the downtown area, such as the Portland International Beer Festival, as well as the Portland Art Museum and Arlene Schnitzer Concert Hall. The city has a great public transit system, MAX, and is very bike-friendly, so get out to explore the Hawthorne District and Mt. Tabor, the Alberta Arts District, and the spectacular Forest Park. Even if you never make it past downtown, there’s plenty to see and do (and Modera offers complimentary passes to the adjacent 24 Hour Fitness if you want to get some exercise in). All just groovy to me.

So what if Americans misuse the Queen’s English? David Mitchell could care less.

by Aaron Hotfelder on

If you’ve spent much time in the company of the British, you’ve probably been involved in one of those tired arguments about the proper spelling of color and why Americans have forsaken the entirely sensible football in favor of the word soccer. These arguments, in my experience anyway, almost never end with the two sides “agreeing to disagree.” Feelings are usually hurt, friendships are often ended, and foreign exchange programs are sometimes cut short.

So give credit to actor, comedian, and Guardian columnist David Mitchell for trying to establish some common ground between the two camps. In a new video for the Guardian website, Mitchell forgoes the “standard, tedious British sneering about lieutenents and aluminum” to embark on an English-usage crusade that even this American can endorse. Why, Mitchell asks, must Americans insist on using the phrase “I could care less” when in fact they mean precisely the opposite? “If you could care less about something,” Mitchell says, “then all you’re telling us is that you do care at least a little bit. Because you could care less… ‘I could care less’ is absolutely useless as an indicator of how much you care, because the only thing it rules out is that you don’t care at all, which is exactly what you’re trying to convey.”

You’ll find Mitchell’s humorous rant, including a discussion of the misguided phrase “hold down the fort” and a “graph of caring,” here. Also check out Mitchell’s hilarious series Peep Show on Hulu.

[HT: The peerless Anglophile Scott Harris]

Round the World in 80 Sounds: Five Tuvan Throat Singing Videos

by Jeremy Kressmann on

Musicians like rapper T-Pain might have popularized the use of auto-tune in pop music, but he’s actually not the first to alter his voice in pursuit of a good tune. In fact, a tribe of nomadic herdsmen from Tuva, a province in the furthest wilds of Russia, have been practicing a curious form of vocal chord manipulation called throat singing as far back as anyone can remember.

This unique style of crooning, also known as overtone singing, is a practice in which the singer plays with the vocal chords, resulting in a sound that covers as many as four distinct notes at the same time. To put this in perspective, your average pop star can only sing in one. How’s that for amazing? This style of singing is actually used by a variety of cultures around the world, from Sardinia in Italy to the Inuit tribes of Canada to peoples of South Africa. But it is the people of Tuva, a small province in Southern Siberia, who have gained the greatest fame for their talent with this one-of-a-kind vocal skill.

Why did this strange form of music develop? And what does it sound like? Join us as Gadling’s new music feature Round the World in 80 Sounds takes a look at five of the best Tuvan Throat Singing videos. Keep reading below…

What is Tuvan Throat Singing?
It’s believed that the strange singing style of the Tuvans is a result of their land’s unique geography. The vast windswept terrain of Southern Siberia is endless in its size and its beauty. Thus Tuvan Throat Singing is the product of these two unique factors. On one hand, the residents of this environment needed their voices to carry long distances – the singing accomplishes this, providing the greatest possible reach.

One the other hand, the Tuvans are believers in Animism, a belief system strongly rooted in nature as the source of religion. Throat Singing draws inspiration from these Animist beliefs, using voices to symbolize the forces of nature, from the winds to the water to the animals that inhabit the Tuvans’ wild homeland.

What does it sound like?
Tuvan throat singing is composed of four main sounds: the Khorekteer (chest voice), the Khoomeii (wind swirling among rocks), Sygyt (birds whistling) and Kargyraa (howling winds). Rather than trying to explain what they sound like, the best way to understand is watch. Here’s five of our favorite Tuvan Throat Singers in action.

#1 – TV feature on Throat Singing
The following travel segment provides a good video introduction to the background, history and sounds of Throat Singing.

#2 – Kongar-ol Ondar on David Letterman
Singer Kongar-ol Ondar is regarded as one of the style’s most famous practitioners, often appearing on Western TV shows to perform. Here’s a clip of Ondar from 1999 on David Letterman:

#3 – The many tones of Throat Singing
Watch as this Throat Singer performs a few of the many different tones involved in the practice. You’ll hear the remarkable range of highs, lows and growls that this style can encompass:

#4 – Live performance of “Sygyt
In this live performance of Throat Singing from the Philadelphia Folk Festival, we see artist Huun Huur Tu as he demonstrates the style Sygyt, or “whistling,” mentioned above. The rhythm and tone is hypnotic and mesmerizing to hear:

#5 – Two Throat Singers Along an Icy River
Watch these two Tuvans as they howl away, set against the backdrop of an swift-moving river choked with chunks of ice. Much like the art of Tuvan Throat Singing it’s at once starkly beautiful, and wildly exotic: