Out-living a small town in Appalachia

by Jamie Rhein on

This Sunday I went to my great-uncle’s funeral in Hindman, Kentucky. He was the youngest of 11 children and the last one living. Good-bye to that generation. It’s weird to have one layer of family gone. But, even more unsettling is a comment made by one of the people who gave a eulogy. He said that he moved to Hindman in 1956 and since then there are only two businesses still remaining. One is the Bank of Hindman. The other is the funeral home. As he said, my uncle, at age 82, had outlived his town.

I am sure that this is not an uncommon story. Drive through the rural parts of the U.S. and you’ll be met up with towns that do not resemble in the least what they once were. I saw several while driving through North Dakota on my way to Regent, a town that is also struggling.

Still, there’s Hindman and my uncle’s tale. He was the post master there for years and he owned the movie theater that doesn’t exist any more. He also ran the drive-in that hasn’t been around for a few decades. I’m not even sure where it was. It’s startling how fast change can occur to the point that much of a place is no longer recognizable. The vibrancy of life that existed in Hindman that my uncle captured with a movie camera back when my mother was a child is no where to be seen. Places like Hindman, as seen through the years of my uncle’s life, remind me of the line “Nothing gold can stay.”

In an interesting twist of irony, my uncle is not buried in the family cemetery that could very well be covered over by woods one day. Instead, he opted for the manicured perpetual care cemetery next door. I guess by watching his town dwindle over his lifetime, he decided to not take any more chances.

Should travelers lament the change of favorite destinations?

by Catherine Bodry on

It seems that every traveler laments the discovery by other travelers of a favorite destination: Alex Garland’s The Beach made millions on the story of a fictional tribe of backpackers disillusioned with the influx of travelers to Thailand’s once-pristine islands, and I think it was so successful precisely because many of us understand the desire to witness cultural authenticity. This theme is omnipresent in travel-writing, and I often come across travel articles written by middle-aged travelers who remember a place the way it “once” was, and who sadly recount their most recent visit, which is sure to be filled with banana-pancake stands and 7-Elevens.

I came across one such article this morning, by a writer named Denis D. Gray who discusses with disappointment the influx of tourists to once-rugged Asian destinations. He remembers Luang Prabang as is was in 1974. Now, he writes, the peaceful, intact culture he witnessed has been overrun by “guesthouses, Internet cafes and pizza parlors. There are fewer monks because the newcomers no longer support the monasteries.” Like Garland, he damns Lonely Planet’s Joe Cummings to an imaginary hell for exposing Thailand’s once “exotic” Pai. And he criticizes the massive increase of tourists to Cambodia’s Angkor Wat, about which he wrote in his journal in 1980: “Siem Reap may be one of the few spots that still clings to the remnants of the old Cambodia, before the war, before the slaughter.”

While Gray’s article does infuse the sense of loss anyone might feel as places change, he doesn’t offer any solutions to the problems he so sadly observes.

I’m as guilty as Gray in my search for an authentic cultural experience and in my hopelessness at irreversible changes and losses. But unlike Gray, I recognize my own contribution to these changes. As travelers, we’re all voyeurs, and we all contribute to the problems Gray points out. Even Gray himself.

Cincinnati, one of the worst cities for women?!!!

by Jamie Rhein on

Iva’s post about the best cities for women caught my attention since Cincinnati was listed as one of the three worst. I wonder if Self magazine gathered the statistics that led to this list before Ohio’s smoking ban? The reason Cincinnati ended up at the bottom is because of the high number of women who smoke here. Since smoking is not allowed in restaurants or bars in Ohio I wonder where women are doing all the smoking? Next time I go, I’m going to have to pay more attention to see if they are gathered on sidewalks and huddled in doorways puffing away.

Since I don’t smoke, I find Cincinnati one of the better cities to visit. I think it’s Ohio’s prettiest. Winston Churchill even sang Cincinnati praises once. If you feel inclined to smoke and need a distraction, here are three places I’d go to spur you on to a healthier life.

#1. Krohn Conservatory in Eden Park. The flowers and plants here will keep your senses occupied. As it happens, today is the conservatory’s 75th birthday. You can’t smoke, but you can eat cake.

#2. Union Terminal. This art deco train station is fabulous and now mostly a museum center. This year is also its 75th. Head to Bodies, The Exhibition to see what smoking does to you. This is a version of the exhibit where specially preserved real bodies and cross-sections of real bodies are on display. I saw a version of this in Cleveland. Sort of unnerving, but great.

#3 Pendleton Pilates at the Over-the-Rhine location. This studio is not in its 75th year, BUT it has a following of performers. Cirque du Soleil, Chicago and Rent cast members come here when they are in town. Pendleton Pilates owner Stacy Sims credits Pilates with her own kick the smoking habit. You can drop in for some of the classes.

“Bizarre Foods” on the Travel Channel: Season 2, Episode 4 recap

by Aaron Hotfelder on

Location: Andrew‘s adopted home state of Minnesota, where he’s lived for 16 years.

Episode Rating: 3 Sheep Testicles (out of 4)

Summary: Andrew heads to tiny Cyrus, Minnesota, for a supper at a senior center-slash-diner. On the menu is a Scandinavian dish called lutefisk, which is cod that’s prepared with powdered lye and resembles a slab of see-through fish gelatin. Perhaps the only thing more translucent than the lutefisk was the skin of the two women Andrew was dining with, who were a combined 193-years-old.

After his trip to Cyrus, Andrew heads to the Minnesota state fair near St. Paul, where he samples deep-fried Spam nuggets and every food that can conceivably be served on a stick, including spaghetti-and-meatballs and a reuben. In Andrew’s conversations with fellow fair-goers, one can hear more “oot’s” and “aboot’s” than in an NHL locker room.

After the state fair, Andrew heads to a “meat raffle,” which sounds like something that might happen at a bachelorette party, but is actually just a raffle for meat. As Andrew explains: “Buy a ticket. Spin the wheel. Win a pot roast.” Sadly, our host didn’t have much success at the ol’ meat raffle: “Fifteen spins of the wheel, 122 dollars later, and I’m still a big loser.”

It wouldn’t be an episode of Bizarre Foods if Andrew didn’t eat some testicles, and in this episode it’s those of a wild boar. “Fabulous,” he declares.

Finally, Andrew heads to the White Earth Re-Discovery Center to harvest some wild rice, and then goes up to a small northern Minnesota town and samples some sauerkraut pie at– where else– Betty’s Pies.

Bizarre Foods: Spaghetti-and-Meatballs On A Stick; Lutefisk; Deer Heart; Pig Toe; Fish Eyes; Deep-fried Spam Nuggets, Chicken Gizzards, A “Goober Burger”– A Hamburger Topped with Peanut Butter and Mayo; Herring Row (mmm!)

For more on this episode, check out Andrew’s blog here.

Paris on a budget: Museums with free admission

by Anna Brones on

In an attempt to make art accessible to everyone, in January, the French government embarked on a 6 month program which opens up several of Paris’ museums free to the public. That means that you have until June 30, 2008 to take advantage of free admission to some of the city’s best museums.

Here are the six museums that are participating:

Musée Guimet – National Museum of Asian Art
Musée Cluny – National Museum of the Middle Ages
Musée des Antiquités Nationales de Saint-Germain-en-Laye – National Museum of Archeology
Musée National de la Renaissance d’Ecouen – Everything from Renaissance sculpture and paintings to furniture
Musée des Arts et Metiers – Houses the collection of the National Conservatory of Arts and Crafts, which was founded to preserve scientific instruments and inventions
Musée de l’Air et de l’Espace – National Museum of Air and Space

If you are a student, you can also have a pretty complete weekend of Parisian art thanks to the French Ministry of Culture. Four well-known Paris museums are enticing the younger crowd, ages 18-25, with free admission one night a week. This means you can check out the Centre Pompidou (Wednesday nights), the Musée d’Orsay (Thursday nights), the Louvre (Friday nights) and the Musee du Quai Branly (Saturday nights) without spending a penny — except for your Metro ticket.