Beware ayahuasca: How drinking a psychedelic South American tea led to the worst night of my life

It all started with a paper I wrote in college. The class was Criminal Law, and our final assignment was to write an opinion on a pending U.S. Supreme Court case, Gonzales v. O Centro Espirita Beneficiente Uniao Do Vegetal, which posed the question of whether a small Brazilian religious group living in New Mexico should be allowed to use a psychedelic tea called ayahuasca as part of its religious celebration.

“Hell, yes, they should!” I wrote (more or less) in my paper, and the Supreme Court, citing the importance of religious freedom, agreed.

Fast-forward two years: I’m sitting in a large dug-out canoe in the Ecuadorian jungle with three German guys and our guide, Marcelo. We’re in the middle of a week-long trip to the Cuyabeno Nature Reserve, an Amazonian rainforest located in the northeastern part of Ecuador.

We’re on our way to visit a shaman (medicine man) and his family, when I turn to Marcelo and, remembering my paper from college, ask whether the religious groups around here ever use a tea called ayahuasca in their services. Marcelo pauses, looks at me with a half-smile, and says, “You want to try ayahuasca?”

“Sure,” I say, with absolutely no knowledge of what’s in store for me. I had taken mushrooms containing the psychedelic drug psilocybin before, and had enjoyed the experience enough to rate it as easily one of the top five experiences of my life. So this ayahuasca stuff would be a piece of cake, right? Well, no.

That night at the house of the shaman and his family, Marcelo calls several other backpackers and I into a small room where we would finally drink a short glass of the extremely bitter tea. What we find in the room is like nothing we expect: A medicine man at least 70 years old is sitting on a chair before us smoking a cigarette. A feather is stuck through his nose and he’s wearing a loin-cloth. Only a loin-cloth.

As we sit in a half-circle on the floor before him, he asks us questions to try to ensure that we’re ready– spiritually and physically– to drink the tea. “You have fasted for twenty-four hours?” he asks in Spanish. “Wait, wha?!” I think. No, I hadn’t done that. In fact, my stomach was about as full as I could ever remember it. (Let’s just say the bathroom facilities in the Ecuadorian jungle are not up to my usual standards.)

But I’d come this far. “,” I tell him. “No comida para mi.

He pulls a three-liter plastic bottle out from under his chair, sets it on the ground in front of him, and begins reciting sing-songy incantations while blessing the bottle’s contents with the smoke from his cigarette. (Of course, it’s anyone’s guess exactly how much of this ceremony is really traditional and how much is performed only to look authentic for tourists.)

Soon he’s pouring glasses of the ayahuasca tea for each of us, and he delivers them to us one at a time. I’m the last one to drink, so I already know by everyone else’s reactions that the tea is not going to be very good. But the tea’s disgustingly bitter taste can’t even live up to my already lowered expectations. It’s virtually unpalatable, which, considering the mind-altering effects it’s about to bring on, is probably for the best.

We sit and wait for twenty minutes after drinking the tea before anything happens. Then the backpacker to the far left of me stands up, leans his head out the window, and vomits. It’s okay, the shaman assures us, that’s what’s supposed to happen. Then, like that contagious-throwing-up scene from Stand by Me, the guy next to him vomits. Then the person next to me does. Unfortunately, because of my stuffed-to-the-gills stomach, I never do.

What happens then? Well, let me offer an extended excerpt from what I wrote in my journal the next day. The opening sentence, I assure you, is no exaggeration:

That was the worst night of my life. I will, as always, blame someone else. Our guide Marcelo apparently thought we’d be okay without fasting before the ayahuasca. Turns out, all the food in my stomach absorbed the nasty tea, and instead of puking twenty minutes in– like we were supposed to– and returning to Earth three hours later, I writhed in agony for nine hours….

“It shouldn’t go unmentioned, however, that I did manage to enjoy some of the positive effects of the ayahuasca: colorful open-eyed hallucinations, extreme visual mind-f***s, and an all-together giddy demeanor. But then, somehow, things began to turn south, or perhaps a better way to put it is that things turned into hell on Earth. It’s difficult to describe with any precision, but I’ll give it a go anyway. I began losing track of who I was; I couldn’t form abstract thoughts; I turned into an animal looking only for survival…

“I couldn’t wake up from the nightmare, couldn’t return to anything resembling a functional human being. I had roughly a hundred false awakenings. They lasted forever… Never in my life have I felt so utterly alone, so helpless, so out of control, so insane. I remember asking a biologist from West Texas, as I was finally coming out of the daze, to tell me his life story so that I could latch on to someone else’s coherent thoughts. So I could remember where I was, what I was doing.

“The most frightening part was not knowing if I’d ever return to normal. I imagined myself– or rather, I would have imagined myself if I remembered how to imagine– like Jack Nicholson at the end of Cuckoo’s Nest when they wheel him in: the lights are on but nobody’s home. It entered my mind that maybe I was dead, and that if I wasn’t, maybe I wanted to be.”

So, if you couldn’t pick up on my subtlety, this was not a very positive experience. Don’t mistake this post for an anti-drug cautionary tale, however, since my fellow backpackers mostly had very good times.

I realize now that I was stupid in not fasting for 24 hours before taking this very powerful substance. I’ve learned– and earned– my lesson.

Five More Places To See Before They Are Changed Forever

Last week we posted a story from CNN.com that named five places to see before climate changed altered them forever. The destinations that made their list included the Great Barrier Reef, the city of New Orleans, Rocky Mountain National Park in Colorado, the Alpine Glaciers in Switzerland, and the Amazon Rain Forest in Brazil. Here are five more amazing places that you should see before they are altered forever as well.

1. Mt. Kilimanjaro, Tanzania
Kilimanjaro is the tallest mountain in Africa, and the glacier at its summit has become the stuff of legend, thanks to Earnest Hemingway’s famous book. The mountain sits just three degrees off the equator, making it even more amazing that snows are present there. But with temperatures on the rise across the planet, the glaciers are retreating at a steady rate, and scientists now believe that they could be completely gone in as little as a decade. Those wanting to see the Snows of Kilimanjaro should make the trek to the summit soon.

2. Maldives, Indian Ocean
More than 1200 tiny islands make up the Republic of Maldives, located off the southwest coast of India, but the entire country is being threatened by the rising levels of the ocean thanks to the melting polar icecaps. It is estimated that by the end of this century, more than 80% of the islands that make up the archipelago will be submerged under water, considerably changing nature of the place. Steps are being taken to save the more populated areas, but much of the country will simply cease to exist in the years ahead.3. The Annapurna Circuit, Nepal
The Annapurna Circuit is considered one of the greatest hikes in the world. It is a 15+ day trek through the HImalaya amongst some of the tallest mountains in the world, with amazing scenery at every turn. With quaint villages found every few hours along the trail, trekkers can spend the night in traditional tea houses, and will always have easy access to food and drink. But the area is being changed forever, and not by climate change, but modernization instead. A new road in the area will alter the landscape both physically and culturally, irrevocably chaning this legendary place forever. The road will be completed by the end of 2010, and much of the charm and spirit of the trail will be gone forever.

4. The Galapagos Islands, Ecuador
The Galapagos are another amazing group of islands, this time found 600 miles off the coast of Ecuador. These islands are home to a dizzying number of different species of plants and animals, some that can be found nowhere else. This has made it a hot tourist destination in recent years with visitors flocking to the Galapagos to take in the unique flora and fauna. But it isn’t the tourists visiting the islands that threatens this fragile place, but instead, the growing population of permanent residents, which has grown at an alarming rate over the past decade. This over population, of a place not designed to support so much human life, is a direct threat to the ecosystem there, and could change the place forever, and very soon.

5. Lake Baikal, Russia
The worlds largest, and deepest, freshwater lake, Baikal, has only just begun to appear on the radar for most travelers. At its deepest point, it reaches 5730 feet below the surface, and those depths have never been completely explored. The lake is home to more than 1700 species of plants and animals, including the fresh water seal, the majority of which can’t be found anywhere else on Earth. Due to its size, Lake Baikal was expected to be resistant to climate change, but studies show that it is already warming, and those temperature changes will also change the landscape in the area, threatening the life of plants and animals that inhabit the remote region of Siberia.

Need New Year’s Eve ideas? Crash some plates!

I assure you that when the ball drops on the last day of 2008, I will not be in Times Square. I will be nowhere near Times Square. So, unless you like the thought of being shoulder-to-shoulder with people you’ve never met while freezing and lamenting the lack of public bathrooms in that part of town, take a look at some of the choices you have this year.

Chomp twelve grapes in Spain
Think of it as a drinking game without the fermentation. Every time the bells toll-12 times in total-eat a grape. This should ensure a sweet year. But, if you cram into Madrid‘s Puerta del Sol (see my thoughts on Times Square), listen carefully for your cue to chew.

Slam china in Denmark
Wait for the queen to finish her annual 6 PM New Year’s Eve address to the Danes. Then, join the locals in a big meal. On a full stomach, throw plates at people’s houses (typically, this is done to friends). The thrown plates are expressions of friendship. I have to assume that a direct hit on a window or expensive glass door is not. Again, just guessing.

Wait for Pinocchio in Ecuador
Ecuadorians burn effigies to prevent their real-life counterparts from stopping by, and people run around the block 12 times while wearing yellow, which they say is lucky. I do hope that they aren’t wearing only yellow … that would look funny.

Mexico: Another place to run around the block
Wear yellow if you choose (and only if you choose) while carrying your luggage around the block in Mexico. But, only do this if you want the year to bring you many travels. Investment bankers, management consultants and attorneys: don’t bother trying to resist it. You’ll be on the road anyway.

[Thanks, IgoUgo]

Cultural Delicacies: Guinea pig

I had a guinea pig as a pet when I was in elementary school. His name was Guinea (I know, really original). He was brown with a little splash of white on his chest. He had a cute pink nose. He was kind of a nibbler (he would often bite me with his two sharp teeth), and whatever he put in his mouth came out the other end. I guess it comes as no surprise, then, that I had to change Guinea’s cage frequently. What I didn’t realize in his very short life was that he froze to death. I didn’t know it then, but I had put Guinea’s cage right under the air conditioner. He died of pneumonia, and I spent a whole afternoon in bed holding my dead guinea pig, feeling like I had wronged the poor thing. I had been a very irresponsible pet owner.

As is the case with other household pets (like fish, dog, and turtle), guinea pigs (or “cuy,” in Spanish) are cultural delicacies in some parts of the world. Although I couldn’t bear to order it last year in Ecuador, “cuy” is a pretty common item on traditional restaurant menus.

%Gallery-8934%

I am a vegetarian cook, so the thought of killing and roasting a small guinea pig sounds awfully unappetizing to me. Even more baffling to me is how anyone could find the little meat on a guinea pig worth eating or even the slightest bit delectable. According to Wikipedia, it tastes like rabbit or dark chicken meat.

“Cuy” can be fried, roasted, broiled, or served in soup. It is commonly found in the Andean highlands of Ecuador, Bolivia, and Peru, as indigenous tribes in the area would cook them for ceremonial purposes. Peruvians consume over 50 million guinea pigs a year. If that number doesn’t surprise you, then this fun fact will: the past two decades have seen a rise in guinea pig exporting from South America to the U.S., Europe, and even parts of Asia. To be certain, it has become more acceptable to eat guinea pig as a common meal. Some restaurants in New York City now serve “cuy asado” and hang them in the window like Peking duck in Chinatown.

I don’t think we have to worry yet about locking up our pet guinea pigs for fear of someone killing and eating them, but I know my little Guinea is rolling in his grave in pet heaven thinking about how his life could have ended.

American couple brutally assaulted in Ecuador

Two Americans spending a year in Ecuador were brutally attacked in the northern town of Esmereldas, according to a report from CNN. One of the victims, visiting Ecuador with his fiancée to celebrate their recent engagement, was reportedly stabbed 24 times, while his fiancée was beaten and sexually assaulted.

The couple has been blogging about their trip here , and this is what they had to say about the recent attack:

“Britt and I were brutally attacked last Thursday. His condition started out as very serious and has gradually gotten even more so. He is in intensive care following three surgeries, and before the last one, last night, I was informed by the head surgeon that there is no certainty that he will survive. That being said, he was conscious and talking last night, and I have continued to be amazed by his strength.” (punctuation added)

We here at Gadling wish the couple, who have flown back to the US for further treatment, nothing but the absolute best.

So, the traveler wonders, is Ecuador still safe? As someone who traveled in Ecuador for four months, I can attest that I never once threatened for my safety, but I also know that the area near the Ecuador-Colombia border is not exactly somewhere I’d like to raise kids.

But please remember that Ecuador is– along with the vast majority of travel destinations– still an incredibly safe place to visit. Unfortunately, we can never completely eliminate the risks associated with traveling in a foreign country (or with staying at home), but the smart traveler will stay abreast of the security situation, get the low-down from locals, and avoid spending time in dangerous areas, especially at night.

So maybe you don’t feel like visiting Ecuador just this second. When you change your mind, check out Gadling’s Guide to Ecuador here.