A classic sailing ship in northern Spain

by Sean McLachlan on

If you’ve been following my travels here at Gadling, you know I’ve moved to Santander in northern Spain and am busy settling in. I’ve had my first of many hikes in Cantabria and have even ventured into the chilly northern surf. I need to buy a wetsuit.

One advantage of living in a port is you get to see sights like this, a reconstructed sailing ship from the Golden Age of Sail. Called the Nao Victoria, it’s a Spanish ship from the 16th century and is currently on tour around the coast of Spain.

A nao, also called a carrack, was a type of sailing vessel used by the Spanish and Portuguese in the 15th and 16th centuries. It was a precursor to the galleon. The Nao Victoria was the first ship to circumnavigate the globe on Magellan’s voyage from 1519-22. Magellan didn’t survive the voyage and the commander to bring the boat back to Spain was Juan Sebastián Elcano. I saw his hometown while hiking the Basque coastline.

The Fundación Nao Victoria also manages a second ship, a reproduction 17th century Galeón Andalucía.

The reconstructed nao is a floating museum where you can see how a ship was run back in the olden days. It had a large storage capacity and could handle rough seas, important for long voyages to unknown parts of the globe. It’s not a completely faithful reconstruction, though, what with its flush toilet and electricity. I suppose the folks sailing this thing shouldn’t be expected to suffer from the filth and scurvy the old sailors did!

Downdecks is an exhibition on Spain’s first constitution, adopted in 1812 as Spain and her allies were busy pushing Napoleon out of the country. The constitution allowed for universal suffrage for men, extended numerous rights to citizens, and ended the Inquisition. The constitution was abolished two years later with the reinstatement of absolute monarchy. It came back a couple of times in Spain’s tumultuous history before other constitutions were introduced in later times.

The project is funded by various regional and municipal governments and government institutions. The stress they put on the Spanish constitution appears to me to be more than just celebrating the bicentennial. Deep fissures are appearing in Spanish society as various regions, especially the Basque region and Catalonia, are pushing for more autonomy or even outright independence. In Spain, any emphasis on national unity carries a political message.

If you like old sailing ships, be sure to check out Madrid’s Naval Museum.

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Man crosses Alps using helium balloons tied to a chair

by Kraig Becker on

Clearly taking his cues from Pixar’s Up or the lesser known Danny Deckchair, American adventurer Jonathan Trappe found a unique way to cross the Alps. Last week, the 38-year old from North Carolina, strapped 54 helium balloons to a chair, took flight, and soared high above the iconic European mountain range.

Trappe began his journey in the town of Gap, located in southern France. Setting out before dawn, he quickly gained altitude, climbing as high as 15,000 feet, and drifted over the snow capped peaks, while the sun rose in the east. He continued on for 12 hours, before slowly descending into the village of Andezeno, on the Italian side of the Alps.

Floating above the remote mountain tops in the dark was probably unnerving enough, but the scariest moment of the flight came when Trappe narrowly avoided hitting a mountain. While drifting towards the border between Italy and France, he nearly collided with Monte Viso, a 12,602 foot high, pyramid shaped peak that towers above the surrounding summits. Fortunately, he sailed safely past, even if it was a little too close for comfort.

The successful crossing of the Alps is another first for Trappe, who last year became the first person to cross the English Channel by helium balloon as well. No word on what he’ll try next, but something tells me he hasn’t finished seeing how far his balloons will carry him.

So what’s it like to float above the Alps in a chair suspended by helium balloons? Check out the video below to find out.

[Photo courtesy of Barcroft]


Arktikum: Finland’s extraordinary Arctic museum

by Alex Robertson Textor on

Rovaniemi is one of the world’s most northerly cities. Located just a few kilometers south of the Arctic Circle, it is the biggest city in Finland at its latitude, with a population of 60,000. There are bigger cities at more northerly latitudes in Norway and Russia, to be sure, but Rovaniemi is indisputably pretty far north, all things considered.

Rovaniemi lures visitors in with the promise of proximity to Santa Claus. In fact, the city bills itself as Santa’s hometown. A big draw is the Santa Claus Village shopping center, built around an Arctic Circle marking, which boasts a Santa Claus in residence 365 days of the year. During the run-up to Christmas, charter flights from around Europe ferry in tourists interested in seeing Santa in his natural geographical habitat. Under feet of snow, Santa Claus Village is now doubt charming. In the off-season, however, before snow has fallen, the shopping center seems misplaced.

Rovaniemi is also home to the Arktikum, an excellent museum that surveys Arctic life. The two permanent exhibits, one titled The Arctic in Change and the other called Northern Ways, are both very good. All sorts of subjects are covered within these two exhibits: climate change, cooperation between the Arctic nations, the evolution of cultural life in Finnish Lapland and the material culture of the Sami people.The museum is notable for its depth and its scope. Itls exciting to gain a deeper impression of this remote and inhospitable region from the toasty confines of this museum. Its architecture, which include a 172-meter long glass-ceilinged atrium that affords views of the sky and the surrounding area, is also extraordinary.

Admission to the Arktikum is €12 for adults. A combination ticket that also allows access to the Korundi House of Culture is €15. Additionally on offer is a combination ticket (also €15) that offers access to Arktikum plus the Pilke Science Centre, which focuses on northern forests. Kids 7-15 pay €5 for a single ticket and €6 for a combination ticket.

New exhibit sheds light on Antonine Wall, the Roman Empire’s northernmost border

by Sean McLachlan on

There’s not much left of it now, just a deep swale in the earth and a few stones jutting out of the grass. Almost two thousand years ago, though, it was the northernmost boundary of the Roman Empire.

The Antonine Wall protected a narrow part of Scotland between the Firth of Forth and the Firth of Clyde, from the 140s to 160s AD. After the Emperor Hadrian built Hadrian’s Wall across what is now the border of England and Scotland, his successor Antoninus Pius decided to move 100 miles further north to gain a military and propaganda victory and add more land to the empire. The wall was built of turf on a stone foundation and stretched 39 miles, as opposed to the stone Hadrian’s Wall that ran 73 miles. Forts placed at regular intervals strengthened the both walls.

Now a new permanent exhibit at the Hunterian Museum in Glasgow brings together numerous artifacts from the wall to show what life was like for the soldiers living up there. Included are several elaborate sculptures commissions by Antoninus Pius to show off his great victory.

The Antonine Wall was only used from 142 to 162, and briefly again around 208. Later emperors decided it wasn’t worth the expense and effort and instead used Hadrian’s Wall as the northernmost boundary. Despite this short lifespan, several communities sprang up around it and there were at least two Roman baths. Excavations have yielded some interesting artifacts such as preserved sandals and a gravestone that shows someone from the Middle East lived there.

I’ve walked the length of Hadrian’s Wall along the Hadrian’s Wall Path and would love to do the same with the Antonine Wall, but sadly there is not yet a trail going along this important remnant of the glory of Rome.

[Wall photo courtesy Wikimedia Commons. Photo of coin of Antoninus Pius also courtesy Wikimedia Commons]

The best “offline” budget hotels in Paris

by Gadling Staff on

Hunting down a cheap and central hotel in Paris can be a daunting challenge. It’s not hard to find one and two-star hotels for under €75 (about $105) per night, but they’re often less-than-inspiring places and frequently located in rather grim neighborhoods.

Fortunately, there are dozens of hotels in Paris’ prime neighborhoods that offer rooms at budget rates. However, they can be tricky to find online, as many of them don’t work with reservation agencies. This means that you’ll never see them on websites like Hotels.com, Expedia or Kayak.

Most of these hotels want to keep it this way. They’d rather handle their own reservations. After all, the booking agencies usually charge hefty commissions, which drive up room rates for everyone.

For smaller hotels with a faithful clientele, they frequently fill up on their own. They don’t need to pay for the service.

Reserving a room at one of these “offline” hotels requires a little more legwork for travelers. You’ll have to check their website (if they have one), email them (if they have email), or call them (they’ll have a telephone).

EuroCheapo put together a guide of cheap hotels in Paris, and here are five of their favorite one-star sleeps, none of which will ever show up on a booking website:

Hotel Tiquetonne
Double: €60

Located on a boutique-lined street a couple blocks north of Les Halles, the Hotel Tiquetonne seems plucked from a ’60s-era French musical. From the sassy receptionist to the cotton candy color schemes, the hotel sings a chipper tune. Built in the 1920s, the Tiquetonne is massive and creaky, with a wooden banister winding up to 45 rooms with private baths (single rooms share showers). Rooms do not have a TV, but they are equipped with Wi-Fi.

The Tiquetonne is popular-so you should reserve well in advance, by telephone only. The staff speaks limited English, so practice up, s’il vous plait.

(6 rue Tiquetonne; phone: +33 (0)1 42 36 94 58; no website / no email)

Hotel Henry IV
Double €60 – €83

Located on the Place Dauphine near the tip of the Ile de la Cite, the Hotel Henri IV is a royally central Cheapo, and once served as the king’s printing office. The 15 rooms and bathrooms have been significantly spruced up since Eurocheapo first reviewed the hotel in 2001, although despite the 2009 renovation they still offer just the basics: bed, chair, desk and big old windows (some of which look out to the Place Dauphine).

We found the hotel completely charming, although those looking for modern comforts should look elsewhere (no a/c, TV, elevator). Also, while the hotel’s location is a quick walk to the Louvre, Notre Dame and Latin Quarter, the Place Dauphine could seem too quiet for some at night. Breakfast included.

(25, place Dauphine; phone: +33 (0)1 43 54 44 53; website: http://www.henri4hotel.fr; Reservations only taken by telephone.)

Hotel Rivoli
Double €47 – €60

The Hotel Rivoli is a no-frills option for those who want a cheap sleep in the Marais but can’t deal with a youth hostel. Located across the street from Paris’ Hotel de Ville, the Rivoli offers 20 plain (if scruffy) rooms, all of which look out to the busy rue de Rivoli.

The bathroom situation is all over the place: Some rooms share toilets and/or showers, while others have private facilities. We’d recommend asking for a room on the fifth or sixth floor, which should be quieter and have better views. And hey, you can work off those croissants while trekking up the stairs (no elevator).

The Rivoli has neither a website nor email and only takes reservations by phone. If searching around online for the hotel, note that there are other “Rivoli” hotels. Be sure you’ve got the right hotel.

(44 Rue de Rivoli and 2 Rue des Mauvais Garcons; Phone: +33(0)1 42 72 08 41; no website / no email)

Delhy’s Hotel
Double €61 – €91

Offering 21 rooms one block west of the Place Saint Michel, the Delhy’s Hotel is a cheap Latin Quarter pick. The building, with its charming stone walls, wooden beams and lack of elevator, dates back to the 16th century. Rooms have cheery bright colors, satellite TV and telephone. All are equipped with a sink and share toilets, although some are equipped with private showers.

Breakfast is included in the room rate and Wi-Fi is available for free in the reception area. Reserve by email.

(22 Rue de l’Hirondelle; phone: +33 (0)1 43 26 58 25; website: http://www.delhyshotel.com/ email: delhys@wanadoo.fr)

Hotel Eldorado (above)
Double €58 – €85

The fun and funky Hotel Eldorado offers 33 rooms with shabby-chic style near Montmartre. The Eldorado’s bright blue and flower-filled exterior is storybook Montmartre, but things get more bohemian inside. Room décor is eclectic, mixing flea-market finds with antiques and original paintings. While the rooms are perfectly clean, they’re not for the persnickety. (It’s obvious that they haven’t been renovated in ages.)

The Eldorado is quite pleased to keep things quiet: None of the rooms are equipped with a TV or telephone, although free Wi-Fi is offered throughout. Most rooms are equipped with a private bath, although a few super cheap singles share baths.

(18 Rue des Dames; Phone: +33 (0)1 45 22 35 21; website: http://www.eldoradohotel.fr email: eldoradohotel@wanadoo.fr)

More budget hotels in Paris

To read more about these hotels and see other recommended budget hotels in Paris, check out the guides at EuroCheapo.