Five ways to enjoy the midnight sun in Oulu

by Alex Robertson Textor on

As the days grew longer this spring I began to fantasize about spending summer solstice under the midnight sun. I recalled with excitement that dulled buzz that comes from not getting enough sleep when it’s constantly light out, a gently energizing sensation so unlike sheer exhaustion. Last week I succumbed to the urge and flew off to the city of Oulu in Finland.

Why Oulu? As is usually the case, my decision was determined by budgetary bottom line. In late May I sat down and looked at all of my options for experiencing the true midnight sun. My research indicated that only a location at or above the 64th parallel north would do the trick. That left a number of decently trafficked airports a single layover away from London: Luleå and Kiruna in Sweden; Bodø, Narvik, and Tromsø in Norway; Oulu and Rovaniemi in Finland.

The cheapest fare I found from London to any of these northern cities was to Oulu via Riga on airBaltic, for €223. I snapped it up.

Oulu, the sixth biggest city in Finland–the fourth biggest if the cities of the greater Helsinki Metropolitan region are counted as one–is a technologically-savvy, bicycling-mad place. The city is saturated by free wi-fi and laced with cycling paths. In the summer, Oulu pulses with restrained energy. Even on a quiet summer night there are plenty of people about, biking, socializing, and swatting away mosquitoes.

In short, summer in Oulu is spectacular and atmospheric. The summer is brief and locals enjoy it fully. Here are five ways to maximize a visit to Oulu during the summer season.1. Explore the city by bike. Oulu has a fantastic infrastructure for bicyclists, with 550 kilometers of cycling trails. The city’s residents use their bikes in impressively high numbers. Families, officeworkers, and tourists all share space on paths and roads. Rent a bike at Pyörä-Suvala or Jussin pyöräpiste.

2. Eat at Sokeri-Jussin Kievari. Located just over the bridge from Oulu’s downtown on the island of Pikisaari, Sokeri-Jussin Kievari is a traditional eatery with a down-home aesthetic. My lunch of vendace fried in butter was delicious, and there are more exotic things on the menu as well. (Also worth a meal is Bar & Grill Kauppuris, with its mammoth burgers of beer-braised pork neck, bacon, steak, and roast beef.)

3. Visit the Oulu Museum of Art. While this may not be a summer-specific activity, a stroll through the museum is certainly worthwhile at present. Through September 11, six contemporary Finnish artists are showing their work in an exhibit titled Close to a Wonder. Among the noteworthy items in the exhibit: Ville Löppönen‘s oil paintings, Pekka and Teija Isorättyä‘s life-size multimedia sculptures, and a set of captivating photographs by Perttu Saksa. Admission to the museum is €3.

4. Check out the Kauppatori or market square at midnight. Some nights you’ll find scores of locals chatting and listening to music. On others, you’ll find a handful of alienated teens and the above unmanned strawberry stand. The adjacent Kauppahalli (Market Hall) is pretty; during the day a notable selection of pastries and local produce is sold inside.

5. Nallikari. A broad beach on the island of Hietasaari, Nallikari is home to a holiday village called Nallikari Camping as well as a spa hotel, Oulun Eden. The beach is beautiful and the waters beyond slope gently. The beach is popular with families and windsurfers. At a distance of about two miles from Oulu’s city center, it is an easy cycling destination. Nallikari also features a miniature golf course.

Some media support was provided by Oulu City Tourist Office. All opinions expressed are the author’s own.

Macedonia: what’s in a name? A major controversy!

by Sean McLachlan on


The erection of a giant statue of Alexander the Great in the Macedonian capital of Skopje is the latest round in an ongoing controversy with neighboring Greece.

The statue, erected on Tuesday as part of an ambitious urban development plan called Skopje 2014, drew criticism from some Greek politicians and nervous mutterings from European diplomats. They say it’s deliberate provocation because Greece objects to the name Macedonia. Using this name, some say, implies a claim over the Greek province of Macedonia, where Alexander the Great was actually born. Of course neither country existed at the time, the land being divided up into a patchwork of ancient city-states. When history is used as a propaganda tool, historic accuracy goes out the window.

Macedonia, officially the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia, broke off from Yugoslavia in 1991 and has been in a row with Greece about its name ever since. This isn’t some minor squabbling. Greece successfully blocked Macedonia’s entry into NATO and is stonewalling the country’s attempts to join the European Union. With Macedonia being one of the poorest countries in Europe, this argument over a name is costing them a lot.

[Photo courtesy Wikimedia Commons]

Budget Edinburgh: Navigating Scotland’s capital on a shoestring

by Grant Martin on

Great Britain isn’t at the top of many budget travelers’ lists due to the sheer insanity of the exchange rate. Today’s dollar gets the American traveler only 0.62 pounds, and for those working on a ramen and couch-surfing budget, that unfavorable ratio can cause a great deal of hardship.

With that said, Scotland and Edinburgh are a world away from the star studded and action packed streets of London, and that inflated sex appeal down south only makes things cheaper in the sleepy north. Like one can take a dollar further in rural Arkansas against urban New York, there are plenty of ways to stretch a wayward pound sterling in Edinburgh, and here at Gadling Labs we’d like to show you just how. Let’s get started.

Getting Around
In general, downtown Edinburgh is a very walkable region. One can navigate from the high end shops on George street in New Town over the Queen’s Gardens and into Old Town in a healthy fifteen minutes, and there’s plenty to see between the two waypoints.

If need be, however, a comprehensive series of buses criss-cross the city, and it seems that there is always a stop within a stone’s throw of your downtown destination. A ride on the Lothian buses, which are the predominant carrier in the city, will cost £1.30 while a day pass with unlimited rides will only set you back £3.20. It’s also possible to get multi day passes (which include airport buses) for £25.Those same coaches reach the airport as well, though for that transit it’s best to take one of the express, blue buses right outside of the main terminal. Passage on these coaches only costs £3.50 and provides a quick, 30 minute journey from the airport into the central, Waverly Station.

Dining
There is no shortage of inexpensive eats in the city of Edinburgh, and a wide spectrum outside of simple pub fare should await any traveler keen to dine on a bit of spare pocket change.

As with the rest of the United Kingdom, fish and chip shops and shawarma stands are scattered throughout the city, many centered around late night haunts or adjacent to student areas. Here, four to six pounds can get you a healthy dose of battered cod and chips or several varieties of Middle Eastern fare, and though not an epicurean adventure you’ll get a full stomach for a reasonable price.

Earlier in the day, Hanover and Rose streets are also home to a deeper variety of inexpensive, delicious fare. One’s best bet is to plant oneself on Hanover between Queen and Thistle or on Rose between Hanover and Frederick and then spin in a circle – there’s enough selection here to cater to nearly any palette, and like the food court in any urban mall it may be useful to divide and conquer.

Particularly outstanding among the batch of Hanover restaurants are The Dogs (110 Hanover) and Amore Dogs (104 Hanover), two spots dedicated to sourcing local, organic ingredients, building classic, inexpensive dishes and positioning them in a modern, warm setting. Dishes range in price up to about £12 and the restaurants are almost always packed, so call ahead for a reservation. Seadogs (43 Rose), a sister restaurant with a seafood spin (Get it?) is also a great pick over on Rose.

Another option on Hanover street is the Urban Cafe (121 Hanover). Despite being on the lower floor of a three story building, the space is well-lit and cleanly appointed, serving a delicious array of tapas (none more than £3.50) and light fare for nothing more than £12.

In a worst case scenario, however, most pubs will be able to put together a decent meal of jacket potatoes or fish and chips. Like the Americans have perfected frozen yogurt and fast food burgers, Scots are excellent at delivering solid pub food, and short of chancing upon a high-market gastropub, one should be able to get in and out with a meal for under £10. Just stay away from the Royal Mile and Prince Street and you won’t pay too hefty of a price.

Make sure you also keep the cooking-at-home option in mind, especially if you’re staying at a vacation rental or on a couch. The farmer’s markets and local grocers provide the best venue for sourcing one’s own fare, with Edinburgh’s farmer’s market taking the award for the most picturesque market in the hemisphere.

Accommodation
The basic budget strategies key in any destination around the world hold well for Edinburgh. Like in Barcelona or in Los Angeles, renting an apartment can be an excellent way to conserve costs on both accommodation and dining, and both VRBO and airbnb have numerous properties available at very reasonable prices.
Beyond the obvious recommendations to rent an apartment or couchsurf your way to budget lodging, several specific facets of Edinburgh’s thrifty hotel scene are worth mention.

The city has plenty of hostel options, from Smart City Hostels (65 Cockburn) to Castle Rock (15 Johnston Terrace). Many of the hostels along the Grassmarket corridor are well-accessible to the city, and late in the evening the streets around the area liven up with backpacking folk spinning in circles and bouncing between bars. It’s not rowdy in the Khosan Road sense of things, but if you’re looking for a quiet, introspective journey, then you may want to book a single room or find another area.

In the midrange, hundreds of hotels are scattered around central Edinburgh, so there should be no shortage of options in the sub $200 range. Among Tripadvisor’s top 30 hotels in the region, 17 have rates that dip into the high $100s, while 9 can dip lower than $150.

On the “affordable luxury” end of the spectrum, make sure to check out the Hotel du Vin and Bistro (11 Bristo Place) on the edge of the old city, where luxury intersects with good design and palatable prices. At publication, rates were as low as $400, but during shoulder and low season those prices should drop.

Another great resource for budget Edinburgh lodging is through Eurocheapo’s portal. The New York-based team has an excellent cross section of inexpensive properties on their site with reviews and pictures to boot.

Summary
Finally, make sure to set up your money conversions strategy properly before heading into the United Kingdom. Money changers and local conversions are going to take a huge percentage of your transaction, so get an international fee-free card and withdraw money from the ATM to get the best rate — with the conversion so low, you need to save every penny that you can.

BBC World Service receives millions to increase Arabic broadcasts, save Hindi broadcasts

by Sean McLachlan on

The BBC World Service is getting a funding increase to the tune of £2.2 million ($3.6 million) per year over the next three years.

This comes after the government broadcaster’s funds were slashed last year, forcing it to announce the cancellation of 5 of its 32 language broadcasts and reduced service on others.

The money will go to boost the Arabic language programs. An additional £9 million ($14.6 million) is being reallocated to save the Hindi shortwave service, which was slated to be shut down.

The Arabic language service is getting more attention both from the UK government and people in the region because of the ongoing unrest there. The Hindi service also has a huge number of listeners.

The BBC World Service broadcasts on TV, mobile, and online, but in many regions its shortwave broadcasts are still crucial. While listening to shortwave may seem old fashioned, in many Middle Eastern countries the Internet is censored or gets shut off completely during times of unrest. Also, many people in the developing world have a shortwave radio, but little access to the Internet.

St. Paul’s Cathedral in London finishes 15-year restoration

by Sean McLachlan on

After fifteen years and £40 million ($65 million), a massive restoration of St. Paul’s Cathedral in London is finally finished.

The timing is perfect because it coincides with the 300th anniversary of the cathedral’s original completion.

Much of the restoration was actually a cleaning to get years of accumulated soot and grime off the structure. This dirt is acidic and can damage the fine white stone, as has happened at many historical buildings. Architectural details and interior decoration were repaired and restored to their original luster.

Located at the end of the Millennium Bridge on the north bank of the Thames, St. Paul’s is one of London’s greatest landmarks. A church has stood here since 604 AD, a time when much of England was still pagan, and this spot has remained spiritually important for Londoners ever since. A later version of the church burnt down in the Great Fire of 1666. Christopher Wren, the leading English architect of his day, was commissioned to rebuild it and made it his masterpiece.

A complete visit takes at least two hours, preferably three. One highlight is the Golden Gallery atop the dome, reached by climbing 530 steps. I think the view from here is the best in London. While the London Eye is taller, St. Paul’s is in the middle of the historic heart of London and so the view from here is more interesting.

The crypt holds the remains of many famous people such as William Blake, John Constable, and of course Christopher Wren. In his later years he used to sit in St. Paul’s and admire his masterpiece. His grave is marked by a simple plaque that reads in Latin, “Beneath lies buried the founder of this church and city, Christopher Wren, who lived more than 90 years, not for himself but for the public good. Reader, if you seek his monument, look around you,”

To celebrate the remodel, St. Paul’s is hosting a photo competition. Take a shot of the exterior of the shiny new/old building and you could see your work displayed in one of London’s most visited buildings.

[Image courtesy user Diliff via Wikimedia Commons]