The great Italian can opener conundrum

Faleria’s long-abandoned castle and Romanesque church loomed in the distance. As I strolled along the two-lane highway in the hinterlands of central Italy — clunky Fiats zooming past, coming within inches of rocketing me off the side of the road — I had nothing to do but think about the plight I was in. I was on a very primitive quest, one for the most basic, animalistic needs: I was in search of food. It is, ultimately, what has motivated anyone with a face and mobility to leave the cave. I’d just looked up the most important Italian word I’d use that day and I was trying my best to memorize it. “Apriscatole. Apriscatole. Apriscatole,” I repeated. “Dove si puo trovare un apriscatole?”

I was actually living here in this medieval hill town called Calcata to undertake another type of quest: to research a book about the village relic that had gone missing (many said “stolen”), the Holy Foreskin (yes, that would be the foreskin of Jesus). And I was a week into my tenure when I’d gone to the not-so-super market in a neighboring village and went crazy when I saw they had cans of my favorite soup, zuppa di ceci (chickpea soup). I rushed home, anxious to pop open a can; I got out a saucepan, a bowl, and a spoon. Now I just had to open it. I scoured the corner of the main room that is the kitchen; where does one find a can opener, un apriscatole. Dove si pou trovare un apriscatole?

Not in Calcata. Just 30 miles north of Rome, Calcata has a small handful of stores: an ethnic shop that sells everything from African clothes to candles; a wooden box shop; a hat shop; and several art galleries. Thanks to the hippies and artists who make up Calcata’s population, if I wanted a sari or a turban or some incense, I’d only need to walk about fifty steps from my apartment. But if I needed something useful like, say, food or instruments that open containers of food, I’d have to walk for a while.

I got to Faleria’s main square, which was more like a crossroads. Cars and scooters flew through the intersection as old men with canes sat in lawn chairs watching them whiz by. In fact, there were old people everywhere. The entire town seemed like one big geriatric pasture.

The old men saw me — the pasty white guy who’s clearly not from around these parts — approaching.

“Buongiorno,” I said. “Dove si puo trovare…er…shit!” I forgot the word.

“Il castello?” one man offered, pointing the direction of castle.

“La chiesa?” another said. The church?

I shook my head from side to side.

“Calcata?” a third man said. I chuckled. Good guess.

I mimed opening a can.

“Un apriscatole?”

“Si,” I shouted with glee.

They looked at each other. I know it was a strange request and probably not a question they were asked on a daily basis. An argument ensued. Or at least it seemed like an argument; it was probably just a normal conversation.

Finally, one of the old men pointed down the street and began rambling a mouthful of directions. The problem, however, was this: I can speak Italian well enough to pose a question without sounding like a complete idiot, but when it comes to getting the answer, I am just that: a complete idiot. In fact, I’ve tried learning several languages in my life and always have the same problem: I can speak okay, but for some reason I have a hard time comprehending when someone speaks back to me.

When the old man finished his soliloquy of directions, I gave him my best, most exaggerated grazie mille and headed toward my new can opener.

“No, no, no!” one of the old men suddenly screamed at me, his hands raised over his head with the palms pointing skyward like I’d just committed some kind of unthinkable crime such as using his flowerbox for a urinal. “Where are you going? You were just told to go this way; not that way!” he said, in Italian, which I actually understood. The other three men, hands resting on their canes in front of them, were shaking their heads. Maybe they were on to me.

Right. I switched directions, and then headed the other way. Okay, chickpea soup here I come. When I got down the street, I had a choice between a women’s hair salon and a small grocery store. I wisely chose the latter. For better or worse, in America, you can pretty much get everything you need in the same shop: be it food, a prescription filled, new tires for your car, condoms, or a can opener, it’s all pretty much in the same place. Not so in Italy. Here there are specialized shops for everything, which means if you need several things, you could end up visiting a dozen different shops. It’s endearing, yes. But annoying when you don’t speak enough Italian to know which shop specializes in can openers.

At the same time, in smaller towns like, say, Calcata Nuova (the modern sibling of the medieval village I was living in), where there are only three shops, you’ll get an incongruent mish mash of things in one tiny shop: Intimo 2000, for example, not only sells women’s lingerie, but one could also buy a lottery ticket, make photo copies, and buy a children’s coloring book.

I finally got to the grocery store in Faleria the old men had pointed out. “By chance do you sell….” I forgot the word again and resorted to my miming routine to the 20-something girl behind the counter.

“Un apriscaltole!” she shouted, as if we were playing charades at a party.

“Yes!”

She brought her index finger up and rested it on her chin and looked heavenward, as if she was really thinking about it and then pointed in the direction of the old men. Of course, she was speaking a gazillion miles per minute and I understood exactly nothing.

But, in my stupid insistence to seem like I was more than just a dumb foreigner who spoke no Italian, I played along, thanking her for directions to the can opener shop.

The old men saw me approaching the square again. “Did you find your apriscatole?” one of the old men asked-or at least I think he asked.

“No. Not yet,” I said. “I couldn’t find the shop over there.”

“You couldn’t find it?” one of the old men said, laying the incredulity on thick. And then he began another finger-pointing session, down the street toward the grocery store and women’s hair salon again. His finger swerved and curled and twirled a couple times, which made me think I hadn’t gone far enough before. Okay, this time I’d walk past the grocery store and the women’s hair salon, take a couple lefts and rights, and there I’d find the can opener store. The one word I heard him say was posta, which means post office-and there was a post office back there. Or did he say posto, which simply means place?

So, once again, I gave a big grazie mille to the old men (I’m sure I was entertaining enough for them), and began walking back, this time passing the grocery store and women’s hair salon. I got to the post office and the only shop around was one selling shoes. Out of desperation I poked my head inside. No can openers.

I walked back toward the old men. Out of embarrassment, I ignored them, just walked right by without looking. I could feel their collective stare, but I wasn’t going to ask them again. I’d most certainly give at least one of them a heart attack. I’d get blamed for it and end up in some Italian prison, where there’d most certainly be a Holy Foreskin of a different sort waiting for me, and not the one I had been looking for.

Instead, I popped into a tobacco shop and asked the young salesclerk if she knew where I could find a can opener.

She thought about it for a long five seconds, staring hard up to the ceiling, before finally saying. “I don’t think there is a shop in Faleria that sells can openers. Try Rome.”

I made the two-mile trek back to Calcata feeling defeated. If I can’t find a can opener in the biggest town for miles then how am I going to find a Holy Foreskin? I wondered. A massive wave of self-doubt rushed over me and, already on just my first week in Calcata, I began wondering what I was doing here. Once again, Opels and Fiats whizzed past me on the highway. I walked over a bridge where, about 100 feet down, a small stream was running.

When I reached Calcata Nuova, which I had to cut through to get home, I stopped into the grocery store to pick up some non-canned goods for lunch and dinner that evening. Even after just a couple days, the clerk already knew me.

“Ciao, come va?” she said. How’s it going?

“I walked three miles to Faleria for a can opener, but they don’t have can openers. Or maybe they do, but I couldn’t find the shop.”

“Un apriscatole? We have them here in Calcata Nuova,” she said, pulling me by my shirt sleeve out the front door to the street and pointing to the lingerie shop, Intimo 2000 “The shop there — you know, the one that sells everything. They will have un apriscatole.”

I trudged up to the lingerie/photocopy/children’s book shop where I purchased a can opener. Over a very rewarding bowl of chickpea soup, I thought about what I still needed for the apartment: a lamp and a rug. And then promptly reached for my English-Italian dictionary and began my next quest anew.

Marseille’s Noailles quarter: a taste of Africa, in Provence

The Provencal port city of Marseille has historically been associated with bouillabaisse, and, to a lesser extent, whores, thieves, and the usual debauchery that goes with being a sea port. Things started to turn around about a decade ago, and today it’s a safe, vibrant, thoroughly charming city whose cuisine and culture reflect its past as a colonial trading port with North Africa.

When France acquired Algeria in 1830, Marseille, the second largest port in Europe, saw a major influx of immigrants from North and West Africa that continues to this day. You can even take a ferry to Tunisia, 550 nautical miles away.

I was in Marseille researching a bouillabaisse story when I serendipitously discovered the Noailles, the city’s Arab quarter. It’s located a short walk from the Vieux Port, Marseille’s bustling, bar-and-restaurant-lined waterfront, off of the main artery of La Canebiere. It was like stumbling upon a Moroccan souk: narrow, cobbled streets lead away from a central square that is home to a daily outdoor produce market. Small, dark, cluttered shops sell tea sets and spices; markets carry everything from meat and seafood to Middle Eastern pastries, dates, pistachios, glass-like, crystallized whole fruits, and tubs of olives and harissa, a fiery red North African chile paste. It’s the ideal place to pick up edible souvenirs or picnic fixings.

Men in djellabahs sit at outdoor cafes, talking loudly over bracingly strong demitasse’s of coffee, while women draped in sifsaris paw through bins of vegetables. The quarter is a kaleidoscopic mélange of colors, sounds, and smells: rotting produce, incense, sizzling kebabs of chicken and lamb, and the comforting aroma of baking flatbreads and sugary almond cookies. My favorite part of this untouristed neighorhood, however, are the tiny Egyptian, Tunisian, and Algerian food stalls and bake shops that specialize in mahjouba–giant, rectangular-folded crepes filled with sautéed tomato, red pepper, onion, and harissa.

The takeaway shop Le Soleil d’Egypte makes a particularly delicious version, as well as selling a variety of North African flatbreads that are baked fresh throughout the morning. Mahjouba are a satisfying, inexpensive (under two dollars) snack–I was so besotted, I even took a couple on the train to Cassis with me. But they’re also special in that they’re a nod to the Marseillaise love of street foods.

All over the city, particularly near the port, street food vendors sell everything from croque monsieur and pissaladiere, to panisses–delicate, fried chickpea flour cakes. I love them all, yet visiting the Noailles for mahjouba is my pick. They’re a quintessential–if little known–Marseillaise treat: a melding of sunny Mediterranean vegetables, classic French cuisine, and North African culture.

For a harissa recipe, click here.

[Photo credits: man shopping, Flickr user Trilli Bagus; buildings, Flickr user Marind is waiting for les tambours de la pluie; rooftops, Flickr user cercamon]

Crif Dogs: The Top Hotdogs in New York City

The various hotdog-and-papaya joints scattered across Manhattan are great for a quick fix, but if you want to truly experience a hotdog’s potential, you have to schlep down to the East Village. Tucked away on St. Mark’s Place, just in from Avenue A, you’ll find Crif Dogs, an establishment that redefines what many consider to be the worst form of meat.

The small, dark restaurant has committed itself to the hotdog in a way like no place I’ve ever been. A few old arcade games greet you at the door, and the décor will not strike you as carefully planned. Linger at the cash register for a moment, and you’ll see a “Wicked Girl” action figure (if you don’t know that that is, leave a comment, and I’ll help you out). And, there are even a few secrets to be found around Crif … if you know where to look.

An expansive menu hangs above the counter, and it is littered with creations that even my lust for unhealthy eating didn’t equip me to fathom. The “Good Morning,” for example, is festooned with cheese, bacon and a fried egg. Bacon, in fact, features prominently on several Crif hotdogs, including the Chihuahua, which comes with guacamole and sour cream (these two are my favorites by far – the bacon is a big part of the reason why). There are other menu items, such as French fries and burgers, but I tend to skip them, preferring to order an extra dog rather than fill the limited space in my stomach with something else.

What Crif Dogs serves is among the best I’ve ever had, with the only competition coming from Popo’s in Swmascott, Massachusetts and a small stand just off Camp Casey in Tong Du Chon, South Korea (which may not even exist anymore – it’s been a dozen years since I last “dined” there). The dogs are hot, they snap and they are packed with flavor in a way that keeps the toppings from masking it. To call a Crif Dog a superior hotdog would be an understatement. And you won’t have any problems with the bun. Though it isn’t toasted (take this as a suggestion, Crif), it’s firm and dry.

Crif Dogs is a bit out of the way if you’re sticking to the usual tourist spots when visiting New York City, but it’s worth a subway hike (and then a walk) to sink your teeth into one of Crif’s creations. The experience is worth it.

[Thanks to @welshwonder for putting a few dogs back with me on my last trip to Crif]

Ask Gadling: What to do in a Muslim country during Ramadan

Ramadan is a month-long religious festival during which Muslims don’t eat, drink, smoke, or have sex from sunup to sundown. This reminds them what it’s like to be without the things they take for granted, and encourages them to be thankful for what they have. Certain people are excused from fasting, such as children, the sick, the pregnant, menstruating women, and travelers. The rest of the population has to suck it up and get through the day.

Traveling in a Muslim country during Ramadan poses two problems–you can’t eat in public and tourist sights may be closed. In countries such as Turkey and Egypt tourism is such a big draw that major sites will remain open and there are enough restaurants catering to non-Muslims that you’ll be able to eat. In smaller towns, however, you might find the attractions and restaurants closed. Gadling’s Grant Martin was visiting Cairo during Ramadan and found many places had abbreviated hours so the staff could eat at the appropriate times. He also found that while touristy restaurants remained open, some didn’t serve alcohol. Gadling’s Meg Nesterov, who’s living in Istanbul, reported very little changed during the fast.

The big challenge comes in more devout, less visited countries. Back in 1994 while I was crossing Asia, Ramadan started during my last week in Iran and my first three weeks in Pakistan. Pretty much everything shut except for museums in major cities and large archaeological sites such as Mohenjo-daro. Restaurants all closed their doors and I found myself in the odd situation of being an agnostic compelled to observe Ramadan.

So what to do?

Get into the spirit. Ramadan is one of the biggest occasions of the Muslim calendar and you’re there to witness it firsthand. You’ll almost certainly be invited to an iftar, the evening meal right after sunset. Muslims make up for their day of hunger with some seriously good cooking, and it’s traditional to invite a guest. One of my coolest travel memories was an iftar at a home for deaf people in Karachi. We communicated by hand signals the entire evening and one of my hosts gave me a silent tour of the city.

Be flexible with your hours. While shops and restaurants may be shut during the day, they often stay open long into the night.
Visit a mosque. You can rest assured that some of the major sights of any Muslim city will remain open during Ramadan–the mosques. Many are centuries old and are architectural jewels, like this one in New Delhi photographed by user jrodmanjr and uploaded to Gadling’s flickr photostream. Mosques aren’t only a place of worship, they’re a refuge from the heat and bustle of the street, a place where people sit around and chat. This makes them great places to meet locals. I’ve been inside dozens of mosques in many different countries and always found them welcoming. I’ve come across a few in Iran and India that were closed to non-Muslims, but in both countries I found mosques where the worshipers greeted me with friendliness.

Eat if you must. Strangely enough, I found food for sale everywhere in Pakistan and Iran. Nobody was eating, but they were shopping in preparation for breaking the fast. Shopping in daylight hours can be a bit awkward, however. The guy with the rumbling stomach selling oranges in the market knows that Westerner is going to sneak back to his hotel room and gorge himself. I found I couldn’t go the whole day without eating and kept a cache of food back in my room for secret snacks. Out of consideration for the hungry vendors I tried to do my shopping at night.

Know when Ramadan occurs. Ramadan is determined by the Muslim lunar calendar and thus varies from year to year. The exact start depends on when the first sliver of the crescent moon is spotted, which in 2011 Ramadan will be around August 1.

Be understanding. I get grumpy if my lunch is more than an hour late, so I can imagine what I’d be like if I skipped food all day. It must be extra hard for the smokers. Many folks are going to be a bit edgy. By the afternoon they may be lethargic or will have disappeared to take a long nap. Ramadan is a big challenge, so cut them some slack. Just wait until half an hour after sunset, though, and you’ll find everyone in a festive mood.

Beer logistics at Munich’s Oktoberfest

“It’s a panic,” remarked Michael Bannister, a distinguished gentleman visiting from Cambridge, England. “The thing is they all know the songs.” The crowd — some ten thousand strong — sang along with various German tunes but the real gusto was reserved for intentional hits. They belted the chorus from “Hey Jude” so loud the rafters seemed to shake. People inside the Paulaner tent danced in place for hours and did all the right moves from “YMCA.” Moreover, songs like “Sweet Caroline, “Sweet Home Alabama” and “Country Road” brought the crowd into frenzy. And you’ve never heard the song “Tequila” until hearing it on tuba and accordion! “There is so much energy here,” said Jo Wegstein from Fremont, California, visiting Germany on biotech business.

The logistics of Oktoberfest are impressive, and large festival or event planners might consider studying their methods. The beer logistics alone are amazing. For instance…

  • The Paulaner Brewery, the largest in Munich begins making Oktoberfest beer in late July and delivers about 3,000,000 liters during Oktoberfest. That’s a lot of beer, consumed one liter a time. And Paulaner is just one brewery out of 12 functioning at the annual event.
  • Paulaner brings its beer from the brewery to its Oktoberfest tent in huge tanker trucks able to transport 270 hectoliters at a time from midnight until right before the tents open in the morning.
  • The brew is connected directly from the tankers to the beer taps using a sophisticated, patented system.
  • Munich-area breweries, hospitality vendors and politicians all vie for tent space, which is highly coveted and incredibly lucrative. A tent owner or brewery can be kicked out of Oktoberfest if there are problems — and they’ll never be allowed to return.

Particularly now — the last few days of Oktoberfest — the brewery tents are usually entirely packed with attendees who’ve reserved tables months in advance.

%Gallery-7107%The Spaten tent was packed, the doors shut tight, and only those with a wristband or VIP access were allowed to enter. There are also biergartens outside, but alas, also full. I ambled over to the nearby Paulaner tent and was fortunately able to jostle and push my way in, but every seat or bench was taken. Still, I was inside and able to watch the action. However, the servers were only serving within reserved designated areas.

Eventually I started chatting with a nice young guy wearing a traditional red and white checked shirt, and he invited me over to meet his little group. Instantly I was “in,” and one of the family. Very friendly, the people at this table included his mother Monica and her husband Mark, plus a few friends and relatives. Her friend Sandy said she was with, “My man, my ex-man, my son and his girlfriend, and my sister.”

Another couple, Rolf and wife Shannina, originally from Romania, rounded out the group. These folks were accommodating and friendly and of course, everyone was enjoying the fresh Paulaner Oktoberfest brew. Dressed in traditional Oktoberfest garb, Rolf was very proud of his custom-made lederhosen, which cost 600 Euro and took six months to deliver. “They are from Stangassinger,” he said proudly. “The best.”

Yes, his lederhosen looked very nice, not that I am up on the nuances of this product. Apparently, every Bavarian man should buy a good pair, which may last a lifetime though fitting into them years from now may be another story. At one point, everyone stood and sang out as the band played a rousing rendition of “New York.” I found out that Monica’s son Danny, who brought me to the table, was only 14 years old. He looked much older. His mother said that he’d been very good this year and thought it best that he would drink under her supervision. She allowed him to drink one big beer. I saw him drink at least two.

Previously:
Arriving at Munich’s Oktoberfest
Munich, Germany’s 200th Anniversary of Oktoberfest

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Bob Ecker is a Napa, California based travel writer/photographer providing worldwide magazines and newspapers with compelling travel, hospitality, wine, culinary, skiing, film and innovative feature content. He is constantly on the go, traveling the world, unearthing new stories and uncorking emerging regions. He is current Society of American Travel Writers (SATW) member and former President of the Bay Area Travel Writers (BATW).