Great drinking and dining at London’s gastropubs

The pub is a fine British institution, but the eating is rarely as good as the drinking. When you order food at most pubs, what you get is a preprepared meal that’s heated up in a microwave, not something that’s cooked especially for you.

Some pubs do have good kitchens where they make everything from scratch, like The Fir Tree, my local in Oxford, but it can be hard to tell just by looking at a pub whether the food is good or not. If you want to get some good dining with your real ales, either ask a local or go to a gastropub.

Gastropubs are just what the name implies–pubs that pride themselves as much on their kitchen as on their bar. Last week I tried the Anchor and Hope, named by the folks over at Square Meal and several other reviewers as one of London’s best.

I must admit I wasn’t going in with the clearest state of mind, having just flown in from Missouri that morning and done a full day’s work at the British Library. (Ever read medieval manuscripts while jetlagged? Neither had I) The meal soon perked me up.

It was a Tuesday night but the place was packed and noisy. My friend and I didn’t bother trying to get a table and simply sat at the bar. Service was quick and we enjoyed watching the chefs do their thing in the open kitchen. I ordered the braised hare, and my friend ordered the fried eel, peas, mustard, and bacon.

The braised hare was tender and rich, and I found my friend’s dish pretty good too, even though I am by no means an eel fan. Both dishes came with plenty of flavorful sauce and we cleaned our plates with some sourdough bread. For dessert we had custard fingers. They were good too, but nothing special, so after the excellent entrees they were a bit of a letdown. Our two meals, three pints of Bombardier, and dessert came to just 43 pounds ($70). That’s good value in a city infamous for overpriced and mediocre food.

Other dishes on offer included Foie gras terrine and poached quince; pot roast partridge; braised cuttlefish and chickpeas in ink; and whole roast sea bass, fennel and anchovy dressing. As the night wore on items were crossed off the menu. This is a good sign because it means they only had limited quantities of quality ingredients, but it can lead to disappointment. I’d gone in with my heart set on the wild rabbit, tomato, anchovy, and almonds.

Located at number 36, The Cut, the Anchor & Hope is conveniently close to Waterloo station and the Old Vic and Young Vic theatres, so give it a try when you’re in town, or try one of the many other recommended gastropubs listed at Square Meal.

The word “gastropub” was coined back in 1991 by the owners of The Eagle in Clerkenwell, pictured here. Gastropubs, like many other aspects of English life, are very class-specific. Working-class types tend to dismiss gastropubs as being full of toffs who don’t know what a real pub is, and I have to say there’s a bit of truth to that statement. The gastropubs I’ve been to tend to be a bit less social and attract fewer of the regulars that make traditional pubs into little communities. The three times I’ve lived in England I always had a local pub where I was a regular, but I’ve never become a regular at a gastropub.

Now if someone opened a gastropub that served Ethiopian food, that could change. . .

Iceland ditches McDonald’s

It’s been a tough year for Iceland. Thanks to foreign money, crazy lending and borrowing practices and a real estate bubble that amazed the world as it grew and when it popped, the small northern country has suffered severely through the global financial crisis … which was predicted by a walking tour guide prophetic viking. Now, a year after Iceland went bankrupt, it’s losing something else – fast food. McDonald’s is leaving the island nation.

Reykjavik, the capital, is home to all three of the country’s McDonald’s restaurants … but not for long. The decimation of the Icelandic krona and declining profits are forcing the franchise owner to call it quits. Magnus Ogmundsson, managing director of Lyst Hr., which holds the franchise in Iceland, told The Associated Press, “The economic situation has just made it too expensive for us.” His situation was made difficult by the McDonald’s requirement that the store’s goods be imported from Germany. So, he had to spend in euros, which became incredibly expensive because of the krona’s plunge.

To get a sense of how bad the situation became, check out the price of a Big Mac. It already costs $5.29 in Reykjavik, and to turn a profit, it would have to go for $6.36 – making it the most expensive in the world. Currently, the title goes to Switzerland and Norway, where a Big Mac costs $5.75.

Ironically, the first person to taste a Big Mac in Iceland was David Oddson. At the time, he was the prime minister but later moved into the position of governor of the country’s central bank, where oversaw the rise of the bubble. He was forced out of office by lawmakers earlier this year.

McDonald’s has had a presence in Reykjavik since 1993 but has no plans to return in the near future. Theresa Riley, a company spokesperson, released a statement saying, “The unique operational complexity of doing business in Iceland combined with the very challenging economic climate in the country makes it financially prohibitive to continue the business.” She added, “This complex set of challenges means we have no plans to seek a new partner in Iceland.”

Lyst, however, isn’t finished. Ogmundsson plans to reopen the stores under the name Metro and use locally sourced materials and produce, keeping the company’s 90 employees in jobs.

In the meantime, you can still get a solid hotdog in Reykjavik with fantastic mustard.

Vintage candy making in Maine

Ever since 1915, Haven’s Candies has been making hand-crafted candy in a traditional way, much like the company’s founder Herbert Haven and his wife did when they first started making candy in their kitchen. They sold their confections from the parlor of their house on Forest Avenue in Portland, Maine.

Now there are three Haven’s Candies locations. The company’s flagship candy making facility, that includes a retail and wholesale store, is in Westbrook, Maine. Other retail locations are in Portland and Scarborough.

If you’ve ever wondered how candy is made the old fashioned way, this video clip of Haven’s Candies covers it. From peanut butter cups to coconut haystacks to candy canes, it’s all here. By the end, you’ll have a sweet tooth craving.

It is possible to see Haven’s Candies being made in person. There is an open house at the candy factory every year on Columbus Day. Guided tours are also available at other times. Plus, the candy making area of the Westbrook location has glass windows. When the store is open you can watch the candy production.

A Classic West Virginia Resort Returns to its Roots

Once commonplace in society, the ultra-luxurious retreats of the South were in abundance and served as the ultimate vacation spot for the well-to-do. Often found in off-the-beaten-track locales, such as sprawling alongside a private beach or set atop a lonely mountaintop, these lavish resorts served as private escapes for a variety of distinguished guests, from Presidents to wealthy businessmen.

Today, many of these bastions of lavishness live on, and in spite of a hefty economic downturn, have not only managed to stay in operation, but continue to offer their trademark impeccable service to those who can afford their hefty price tags.

Recently, one of the more notable resorts, The Greenbrier, has returned to the hands of its home state, West Virginia, after being purchased by West Virginia businessman, Jim Justice in May of this year, essentially rescuing the landmark from Chapter 11 bankruptcy. Originally owned by CSX Corporation and about to fall into the hands of hotel giant Marriott International, Justice, a Marshall University graduate and former CEO of Bluestone Coal Corporation, says he is committed to, “bringing back the treasure”.Justice firmly believes in taking a hands-on approach, and has started off his new role on the right foot, at least according to The Greenbrier’s employees, which number roughly around 1300. One of Justices’ first orders of business was to reach agreement with the unionized employees by sweetening their health care packages, 401(k) plans, and offering smaller perks such as daily free meals.

Next up has been Justices’ newest project, the Prime 44 West Steakhouse, which was created to honor West Virginia NBA Legend Jerry West. This October, Prime 44 has finally opened its doors to culinary critical acclaim. Under the direction of Chef de Cuisine, Michael Treanor who comes to The Greenbrier after several Ritz Carlton stints, and is himself a graduate of The Greenbrier Culinary Apprenticeship Program, the restaurant seeks to enhance the resort’s elegant yet cozy, mountain atmosphere by offering guests a classic steakhouse menu that boasts a bit of a diner’s club experience. In addition to eats, the decor of Prime 44 pays homage to West by displaying the largest public collection of his personal memorabilia, including the gold medal he won in the 1960 Summer Olympics.

When it comes to Treanor’s menu, local specialties are emphasized, such as a West Virginia Blue Ribbon Pork Duo, pinto beans with Virginia ham, and Cathy Justice’s own, “Best in Show Blue Ribbon Cornbread”. However, it’s the prime cuts that take center stage, ranging from an 8-ounce Wagyu tenderloin to the behemoth, Jerry West 44-ounce Porterhouse, which boasts an equally over-the-top price tag of $130 bucks.

In addition to The Greenbrier’s nine dining options, other culinary offerings are on tap for 2010, including The Greenbrier’s famous BBQ Mastery culinary series. Yet, it’s the 80,000 square foot Monte Carlo-styled casino Justice has planned for spring of next year that really have tongues wagging. Designed to bring a taste of James Bond (shaken not stirred) to the West Virginia mountains with 38 gaming tables and 320 slot machines along with plenty of live entertainment, the casino is sure to draw attention. In the meantime, until the gaming complex is built, guests can hit The Tavern Casino for an evening of money making (or losing) excitement.

Without a doubt, Justice has made his fondness for both his home state and his treasured resort abundantly clear, and many of us West Virginians are excited to follow along as one of our own takes our “crown jewel” into the next era.

—Kendra Bailey Morris

Airborne booze fueling Brit air rage to new heights

It isn’t really a stereotype if it is true – and the stereotype that British air passengers are a bunch of drunken hooligans doesn’t really sound untrue when you read the latest statistics.

In the past 12 months, in-air rage incidents on UK carriers rose 30 percent, and alcohol played a very important part. Almost 3,500 incidents were recorded as “significant”, and 44 were “serious”.

Incidents varied from smoking, to acts of violence. Of the 44 serious incidents, 29 of them involved passengers being restrained, and in 13 incidents, the plane had to be diverted.

37% of the incidents were booze fueled and men are involved 73 percent of the time. The figures are pretty bad, but the chance of being involved in an air-rage incident in a UK carrier is still just one in 24,000.

Once again, it raises the question what is more important to airlines and airports – passenger safety, or making money off alcohol sales?