Airport survey reveals huge trade in bushmeat

Researchers studying customs seizures at Charles de Gaulle airport in Paris have discovered that smuggling of illegal meat is a huge problem.

Up to 270 tons of illegal meat may be coming into Europe from Africa every year. The study made its estimate based on customs searches over a 17 day period involving 134 passengers from 14 African countries. Nine people were caught with bushmeat weighing a total of 188 kilos (414 lbs). The defendants had a variety of dead animals in their bags, including primates, crocodiles, and rodents. Some were protected species.

Bushmeat, the common term for animals hunted in the African countryside for food, makes up to 80% of protein and fat in the diet of rural Africans. Much of the hunting is for rodents and deer that aren’t endangered, but this practice has also led to some species being pushed onto the endangered species list or becoming locally extinct. Importing bushmeat is illegal in Europe, but the taste for exotic foods, or nostalgia for good home cooking, has led to a major trade in wild animals.

While it’s not a headline grabber like discovering a shipment of human heads, officials say bushmeat smuggling poses a health risk and contributes to wildlife extinction.

Photo courtesy Amcaja via Wikimedia Commons.

Travel thoughts: Three polished pebbles from Pico Iyer

One of the most life-enriching treats of this spring for me was the opportunity to interview Pico Iyer on stage in Washington, DC, as part of the National Geographic Traveler Conversations series. If you’ve never heard Pico in person, it’s impossible to convey how breathtakingly eloquent he is – and how breakneckingly quickly he enunciates that eloquence. My belief is that he has a superhuman copy editor tirelessly at work in his brain, polishing his thoughts as he conceives them into flawless gems that he strings together into an unending necklace of diamonds.

Interviewing him on stage is challenging – for me, at least – for two reasons: The first is that my mind is always running to catch up to whatever profound thought he’s articulating, so that I’m constantly scrambling to conceive an appropriate follow-up question or remark; the second is that after he has said something particularly brilliant, I want to pick up the Reality Remote Control and press Pause so that I can write down what he’s just said. In our Washington conversation, there were at least half a dozen times when I really wanted to stop and say, “Pico, wait just a minute. I need to write that down.”

Pico’s thoughts are like polished pebbles that he drops into the pools of our minds, sending out infinite rings of ripples. Here are three thought-pebbles that particularly resonated for me in our National Geographic talk:

1. Travel to a foreign place is like flipping a switch; all your senses are suddenly alert.
This is absolutely true for me, and it’s one of the fundamentally addicting elements of travel. As soon as I step outside the familiar, everything suddenly zings and pops and trills; smells smell more pungently, sounds sound more acutely, tastes taste more tartly and sweetly and spicily. The newness of everything awakes and challenges me – I literally see, sense, anew. Partly, I think, this is because I’m trying to comprehend and order everything, and partly it’s because I’m simply celebrating – the newness pushes some deep joy-button that exults in the diversity of the world.This phenomenon is certainly one of the things that keeps me traveling, along with what I think of as its cognate: the limitless anonymity-possibility of travel. When we travel to a foreign place, we step outside our everyday reality, we can become whoever we want to be. These dual possibilities – of self-reinvention and of sensual-renaissance – are both intoxicating.

2. The act of note-taking means I’m paying attention.

I have always found that note-taking focuses me. It’s a two-step process: The first is all about perception. To take good notes, you first need to slow down and really perceive the thing you’re describing: Smell the air, hear the bird call, observe the details of branch and bud in the landscape, taste the café crème and the chocolate croissant. And then you need to find the right words to convey to your reader – and to yourself, when you peer at your scribbles three weeks or three months later – what is around you.

This is why on every trip I try to make time to simply sit in a place – a café, a park, a market, a meadow – for at least an hour and absorb the world around me. I sit and focus on what I’m observing — the waiter setting the cup of coffee with a slight nod just so, the white-shorted schoolboys pushing wooden sailboats in the sculpture fountain pool, the kerchiefed grandmother squeezing tomatoes and smelling cantaloupes under the stall-owner’s stare, the bees buzz-dipping from blossom to blossom – and then write it down.

These notes will later serve as memory-portals back into that moment, that place. At the same time, stopping and simply observing, absorbing, grounds me in the place so that I see, hear, smell, touch, taste more accurately, more acutely. And as I perceive more acutely, note-taking also makes me process more acutely. I ask questions: How can I describe the tint of this cafe latte? Is that a wooden sailboat or a plastic replica? What are those odd green spiky fruits over there and what do they smell like? What are those purple wildflowers called, and how can I capture the blue of the sky arching over them? Trying to note all these things forces me to pay attention. And paying attention, of course, repays me many-fold: in the living of the moment, in the recollection of that moment, in the writing of that recollection, and if I’m lucky, in the reader’s reaction to that writing.

3. Home is less a piece of soil than a piece of soul.

I have lived in five places in five decades: Connecticut, Paris, Athens, Tokyo and San Francisco. But I learned long ago that my address is not my home, the place where I physically reside is not my home, the timber and nails and stucco and glass that comprise my house are not my home. All of the places I have lived and loved are a part of me wherever I go: the woods behind my childhood house and the chicken coop my friends and I thought was a pirate outpost because of the skull and crossbones on the door; the rickety filigreed elevator that used to take me to and from my apartment on the rue de Rivoli and the waiter at the six-table corner restaurant who would bring me bifteck-frites and a glass of vin ordinaire without my asking; the little taverna under the pines on the hill outside Athens where we would eat tomato-cucumber-feta salad and drink retsina while we debated Platonic philosophy, and the red poppies and white fluted columns at Delphi where we picnicked and planned our endless futures; the downtown Ueno park where the cherry blossoms opened in evanescent splendor every spring and the people bloomed like them, sitting on quilts under the boughs, drinking and laughing and singing – all these are a part of me, wherever I am. All these are home.

“Home is less a piece of soil than a piece of soul.” Yes, home is a mosaic of soul-pieces from all the places — and people — we have loved: a mosaic that lives inside us and that transcends us at the same time, for its connections reach beyond us in all directions….

Thinking of these, I realize that like traveling to a foreign place, like note-taking, like a soul-piece of home, talking with Pico graced me with a new, renewed, sense of alertness, focus and connection. Thank you, Pico, for your ring-rippling insights and inspirations!

*****

While I didn’t have the Reality Remote Control handy that night, fortunately a number of people in the audience were capturing Pico’s polished thought-pebbles. If you want to read their accumulated notes, visit National Geographic’s Intelligent Travel blog.

Top five weekend travel media stories

Here are some of the best travel stories culled from the travel sections of this past weekend’s newspapers.

1. In the Financial Times, Claire Wrathall pens a sailing exploration of northern Croatia’s Kornati islands, which take a backseat to the country’s southern Adriatic islands and port cities.

2. Seven writers weigh in on their first independent teenage trips in a Guardian travel feature. It’s amusing throughout, though the stories told by Terry Alderton and Emma Kennedy are especially funny.

3. In the Los Angeles Times, Michele Bigley recommends ten kid-friendly pit stops along Highway 1 between Los Angeles and San Francisco.

4. In the Winnipeg Free Press, Phil Reimer ponders the future of Antarctic cruises after the heavy-fuel ban takes effect next August. (Another great piece exploring the future of cruises among other tourism ventures was written by Doug French for the June 7 Christian Science Monitor.)

5. In the Irish Times, Ruadhán Mac Cormaic celebrates the virtues of Paris beyond the city’s six most central arondissements, sharing top-five hotel, restaurant, and activity lists.

(Photo: Flickr/Alaskan Dude)

Daily Pampering: Be it Ever So Barbie, at Hôtel Plaza Athénée

Forget the corvette, this Barbie is heading to Paris for some serious luxury travel.

Grab your Barbie bag, Barbie clothes and Barbie iPod, and hop your Barbie plane to Paris for a stay in ultimate Barbie luxury. For the first time in France, Hôtel Plaza Athénée on Avenue Montaigne is offering a Barbie-inspired stay for guests. Plaza Athénée will accessorize two guest rooms to resemble a little girl’s dream in Barbie’s favorite colors (shades of pink!) with exclusively signed furniture and accessories galore. In addition to the Barbie room, guests ages three to 16 will receive a very special Barbie-inspired gift.

The Barbie rooms will only be available from August 6 through September 2, 2010. Choose from one of two family packages: one Barbie room and connecting deluxe room for parents, from 1,600€ (about $1,900 USD); one Barbie room and connecting deluxe suite from 2,500€ (approximately $3,000).

I think even Barbie would give up her Dream House for this Parisian escape.

Want more? Get your dose of Daily Pampering right here.

Four lesser-known Eurozone islands

With the euro continuing its crash against the US dollar, Europe is shaping us this summer and fall to be relatively inexpensive for Americans on the ground. Here are four islands that get little media or guidebook coverage yet offer volumes of quaint, picturesque charm. All use the euro as official currency, and are thus all markedly cheaper for Americans than they were last summer.

To entice your budget-minded enthusiasm, a mid-range accommodation option is paired with each destination.

1. Porquerolles, France.

The dreamily quiet Porquerolles, with its bouquet of aquamarine inlets, can be reached by ferry from the town of Hyères, near Toulon. The largest of the three islands of the Hyères archipelago, Porquerolles is largely protected as a national park. There are a number of very expensive hotels on the island, to which the mid-range Hotel Le Méditerranée, with double rooms starting at €98 per night in high season, provides a fairly-priced alternative.

2. Fasta Åland, Finland.

The semi-autonomous Swedish-speaking Åland islands, located between mainland Sweden and mainland Finland in the Gulf of Bothnia, are part of Finland. Fasta Åland, the largest island in the group, can be reached by ferry and air from Helsinki, Stockholm, and Turku. Mariehamn, the island’s capital, has cute lanes and museums to offer. Reasonably-priced accommodations can be found at Hotell Esplanad in Mariehamn, with high-season double rooms from €73.

3. San Domino, Italy.

The largest tourist attraction within Italy’s Tremiti archipelago, San Domino is a picturesque island covered with pine trees and studded with beautiful coves. San Domino is located about two-thirds of the way down the Adriatic coast and can be reached by ferry from the coastal port town of Tremoli. Albergo La Pineta charges between €45 and €75 per person for room and half-board between now and the end of September. Avoid the first three weeks of August and you won’t pay more than €65 per person per night.

4. Vlieland, Netherlands.

Wind-whipped Vlieland, one of the Netherlands’ atmospheric Frisian islands, can be reached by ferry from the city of Harlingen on the mainland. The island restricts car ownership to residents, and the streets are accordingly full of pedestrians and bicyclists. The island is one of the least densely-populated municipalities in the country, and there are forests, sand dunes, and beaches to explore. The Hotelletje de Veerman offers a sea-facing double room with terrace or balcony for €50 per person per night.

(Image of Porquerolles: Flickr/sgustin78)