Bullriding Kiwis: Rodeo at the bottom of the world

by Kyle Ellison on

“These riders aren’t some dope smokers from the local pub. They aren’t some hippie who’s trying to molest your grandmother. These are real riders here. And they are men.”
-Wanaka Rodeo announcer-

As friends back home in the United States nursed a New Year’s Day hangover by sipping lemon lime Gatorades and watching Comedy Central movie marathons, the campervan had already driven straight through to January 2, which, seeing as this is New Zealand now featured a new and different way to get a hangover.

Though the lakeside town of Wanaka comfortably houses around 7,000 permanent residents, during the New Year’s holiday the visitor numbers swell to over 25,000, many of whom are in town for the 49th annual Wanaka Rodeo, one of the most popular events put on by the New Zealand Rodeo Cowboys Association.

Despite being closer to Antarctica than the Equator, the temperature is a tepid 77 degrees and the intense Kiwi sun is doing its best to melt the lingering snow patches wedged into the surrounding foothills. From the dusty parking lot you can already smell the distinct combination of rawhide and fried food wafting on the southerly breeze.

Meandering amongst the concession stands of “American hot dogs” and “candy floss” (cotton candy), I realize the Wanaka Rodeo seems to have all the makings of a rodeo found anywhere in the American west. Crowds mill, horses neigh, and events ranging from stick-horse racing to barrel-racing thump to a soundtrack of Gretchen Wilson and Tim Mcgraw.

There is even an American flag flying in the corner of the arena, a curiosity which led to me to track down a local Kiwi cowboy by the name of Mike Sanderson who later had the honor of racing the Stars and Stripes around the arena during the opening ceremony.

%Gallery-142833%I caught up with Sanderson in the competitor’s area, an unglamorous, cordoned off zone which closely resembled an infirmary. Knee braces hidden beneath chaps were suddenly revealed and taped up wounds poked from beneath rolled-up flannel sleeves. As the announcer had so eloquently stated earlier, these riders are the real deal, and they are men (although the lady riders seemed pretty tough themselves).

From the saddle of a horse set to be used for the upcoming team-penning competition, Sanderson tells me they always fly the Stars and Stripes at New Zealand rodeo events as a tribute to the country that gave the world the sport of rodeo. As I hear the clang of a steel gate and watch a man get his shoulder stepped on by a gyrating heifer, I realize I’ve never thought of rodeo as being a cultural export.

Though much of the crowd had swapped Wranglers for rugby shorts, the scene was nonetheless a very familiar affair. As a testament to the recurring motif of everything just being a bit edgier in New Zealand, however, beers at the concession were sold by the 6-pack, an option I feel exhibits a great deal of understanding regarding your clientele.

With the announcer asking any overseas visitors to present themselves at the front of the crowd for a batch of door prizes, it’s quickly apparent there are far more nationalities than Kiwis populating the Wanaka rodeo grounds. On this hot January day near the bottom of the world, travelers from Hungary, Brazil, Israel, Spain, Czech Republic, and Canada have all gathered to watch the country’s best ropers and riders take part in an American tradition.

As I stand along the metal gate to the arena and watch a 19-year-old cowboy from Invercargill tie a half-hitch around a calf’s ankles, I remark to the mustached gentleman to my left about how healthy and strong many of these horses appear.

“These horses graze some of the most pristine land on Earth” he proclaims. “Much of which you can see from here.”

With the sun tracking westward towards the peaks of the Crown Range and a sea of rolling grass hills spread out before us, I couldn’t possibly agree more.

For the next 2 months Gadling blogger Kyle Ellison will be embedded in a campervan touring the country of New Zealand. Follow the rest of the adventure by reading his series, Freedom to Roam: Touring New Zealand by Campervan.

Phoenix Art Museum opens exhibit on world religion

by Sean McLachlan on

The Phoenix Art Museum is one of the city’s best art spaces. With more than 18,000 objects in its permanent collection, it brings everything from Picasso to medieval Japanese silk to central Arizona. Their Asian collection is especially good.

Now the museum has started the new year with a major new exhibition. Sacred Word and Image: Five World Religions covers the written word and painted image as expressed in Buddhism, Hinduism, Islam, Judaism, and Christianity. By showing the art and writings of these different religions side by side, visitors can see how people each faith use them to express their beliefs.

The exhibit includes a wide variety of objects, including Christian icons, Muslim prayer mats, religious texts, sculptures, and much more. One interesting item is a 7th century Japanese printed prayer, one of the oldest printed texts in the world. When Japan converted to Buddhism in the 7th century, the emperor had one million small wooden pagodas built. Each included a printed prayer inside.

Sacred Word and Image: Five World Religions runs until March 25, 2012.

Photo courtesy Chanel Wheeler.

Musical instrument museum promotes global theme, locally

by Chris Owen on

The Musical Instrument Museum in Phoenix, Arizona offers a look at the history of musical instruments from over 200 countries around the world. The interactive collection of instruments tells a story of musicians, instrument makers, recording studios, and musical traditions significant to our shared past, present, and future.

In 2012, the museum has a special focus on American Music. Specifically: music tagged to Arizona. A new exhibit includes artifacts, photographs, and audiovisual content designed to bring the subjects to life and ignite interest in the global, binding nature of music.

Some noteworthy objects in the I Am AZ Music exhibition include the gold dress worn by singer Jordin Sparks during the American Idol finale, instruments played by the Gin Blossoms and a double-neck guitar played by Duane Eddy on Dick Clark’s “American Bandstand” in 1960.

Typical of the past/present/future focus of the exhibit is an exact replica of a stage suit worn by rocker Alice Cooper in the 1970s, then also worn during the filming of Dark Shadows, a film slated to be released this year.

Also part of I Am AZ Music is an exhibit on Canyon Records, founded more than 60 years ago by Phoenix media pioneers Ray and Mary Boley, that highlights the production and distribution of Native American music. Another exhibit is dedicated to Floyd Ramsey, whose music studio hosted sessions in the 1950s by Duane Eddy, Waylon Jennings, Wayne Newton, and Alice Cooper.”Country fans will enjoy our tributes to Buck Owens and Waylon Jennings, while jazz enthusiasts are sure to love the exhibit centered on Russell ‘Big Chief’ Moore, a member of the Gila River Indian Community who played trombone with Louis Armstrong” said MIM curator Cullen Strawn.

Musical instrument manufacturers of today that make Arizona their home are also featured, such as the Roberto-Venn School of Luthiery, Navajo-Ute flute maker Aaron White, Yaqui drum and rattle maker Alex Maldonado, White Mountain Banjo Works, Phoenix Guitar Company, classical guitar maker Brian Dunn, and Apache fiddle maker Anthony Belvado.

To make the exhibit interactive, visitors are given wireless headsets to wear throughout the museum. Approaching each display, they can hear the instruments being played, either solo or as an ensemble. Audio and video clips familiarize guests with the unique sounds of each musical culture, allowing them to “share a common experience”, very much the global theme of the Musical Instrument Museum, brought down to local, street level.

“Somewhere, out there, on the farthest rim of the earth, a sound wails into the night” begins this short video from the museum proposing that “from our first breath music is the instrument of the soul”.


The museum is also opening an African Piano exhibit in February that will examine the sanza and its musical tradition among Central and East African story tellers, historians and ceremonial or ritual experts.

Photos courtesy Musical Instrument Museum

Ten big travel adventures for 2012

by Kraig Becker on

A new year always brings new possibilities, particularly in the realm of travel. With 2012 now officially underway, it is time to start plotting our adventures for the year ahead. This year, rather than share yet another top ten list of adventure travel destinations, we thought it would be fun to recommend some highly specific adventures instead. These are unique journeys that will take you to the very ends of the Earth and deliver a travel experience that simply can’t be easily found elsewhere.

Visit Yellowstone in Winter
Yellowstone National Park is one of the most breathtakingly scenic destinations in all of North America, and well worth a visit any time of the year. But in the heart of winter, it takes on a whole new level of beauty and wonder. With fewer than 100,000 visitors during the colder months, the park offers plenty of solitude as well, making it the perfect winter wonderland for those looking for a true wilderness adventure in the snow. Cross country skiing, snowshoeing, and wildlife spotting are amongst the best activities, and Austin Lehman Adventures offers fantastic itineraries that provide all of that and much more.

Explore Botswana’s Okavango Delta By Canoe
Botswana is home to the Okavango Delta, which is formed when waters from the Okavango River empty into the flat-lands near the base of the Kalahari Desert. The result is a fertile piece of swampland that attracts all manner of African wildlife, including elephants, zebras, giraffes, lions, and much more. The best way to explore that expanse of wetlands is in a traditional dugout canoe, which puts you in very close proximity with those amazing animals. National Geographic Expeditions has a unique itinerary that allows travelers to do just that, while learning to track game with the famed Kalahari Bushmen and wander the Makgadikgadi salt flats on horseback. This is truly an amazing, once in a lifetime, journey to the very heart of Africa.

Cycle The Silk Road
Stretching across Europe and Asia, the Silk Road was once one of the most important trading routes in the entire world. Today it serves as the dramatic and historic backdrop for one of the longest, and most epic, annual cycling trips that any adventure traveler could ever ask for. The Silk Route Tour, which is designed by the team behind the amazing Tour d’Afrique, stretches from Shanghai to Istanbul, covering a distance of more than 7450 miles and requiring 129 days to complete. This year’s route takes riders into Iran for the first time and will test their legs on Tajikistan’s Pamir Highway, which rises above 15,000 feet. Don’t have time to commit to the full tour? Then ride any combination of the individual legs instead.Climb A Himalayan Peak
Standing 23,494 feet in height, Pumori is a Himalayan peak that often serves as a tune-up climb for mountaineers hoping to move on to bigger challenges such as Everest. Located in the Khumbu Region of Nepal, Pumori also happens to be a great challenge for those who want to experience a major alpine expedition in the most spectacular mountain chain on the planet. Peak Freaks, one of the top Himalayan guide services in world, offers an excellent, fully featured, 34-day climb up the mountains South Ridge, which requires no high altitude experience, although some technical skills with crampons and ice axes are a must.

Go Gorilla Spotting in Rwanda
The mountain gorilla is one of the most elusive and endangered animals on the planet, and because of this, their remote habitats have been designated as nature preserves and sanctuaries throughout Africa. One of the best places to spot them is in Rwanda, where adventure travel and eco-tourism have helped directly fund the preservation of these gentle creatures. Visitors to the Virunga Volcanoes National Park must hike for miles through dense forests just to catch a glimpse of the gorillas, but those who have made the journey report that it is a magical experience unlike any other. Adventure travel specialists Abercrombie & Kent can help make that experience a reality for wildlife lovers who want a very personal encounter with these amazing primates.

Trek The Wakhan Corridor in Afghanistan
In the remote northeast corner of Afghanistan there is a narrow strip of land known as the Wakhan Corridor. The region once served as a buffer zone between the British and Russian Empires, but today it is a wilderness that rarely sees outside visitors. Trekking through that valley is akin to stepping back in time, as there are few modern amenities to be found. What is in abundance however are scenic mountain vistas, tiny villages populated by local herdsman, and rugged trekking routes that are amongst the most remote on the planet. Few travel companies organize expeditions to the region, although Wild Frontiers out of the U.K. does have plans to lead two excursions – one 20 days in length, the other 30 – into the Corridor this year.

Hike and Bike Easter Island
Speaking of remote destinations, they don’t come much more remote than Easter Island. Famous for the mysterious moai statues that proliferate the landscape, the South Pacific island is an intriguing mix of history and outdoor adventure. For those looking to visit the place for themselves, G Adventures offers an affordable option that features full and half-day cycling excursions and day hikes to visit some of the more famous locations where the stone faces that Easter Island is known for are in abundance.

Dive The Maldives
For more than 45 years, the Professional Association of Diving Instructors, or PADI, has been teaching travelers how to scuba dive. But the organization also offers a host of diving trips to some of the most exotic destinations on the planet. For example, the PADI itinerary to the Maldives take divers on a cruise through the beautiful island nation, where the waters offer visibility in excess of 100 feet and encounters with sharks, manta rays, sea turtles and scores of other marine animals.

Experience Mongolia’s Gobi Desert
Mongolia’s Gobi Desert has long held an undeniable allure to the adventure traveler, and what better way to take in its wonders than by traveling overland through those remote landscapes. Intrepid Travel has a new itinerary for 2012 that sends travelers on a three-week long odyssey over towering sand dunes, past ancient ruins, and through lush, open steppe lands. Accommodations range from traditional Mongolian Yurts to rugged bush camps. This is the ultimate road trip through a part of the world that few outsiders are lucky enough to ever see.

Ski To The South Pole
If you’re a well heeled adventure traveler looking for the ultimate escape, a last degree journey to the South Pole may just be fit the bill. The expedition begins in Antarctica at 89°S and covers the final 60 miles to the Pole on cross country skis. It isn’t an easy journey however, as you’ll be pulling your food and gear behind you in a sled, while battling fierce winds, subzero temperatures, and occasional whiteout conditions. If this sounds like your particular brand of suffering, than Adventure Consultants has a 17-day itinerary that you’ll probably love. Just don’t let the sticker shock scare you.

Good luck in your 2012 adventures, where ever they may take you.

[Photo credits: Pumori – Philip Ling; Easter Island – Aurbina both via WikiMedia]

Vagabond Tales: Please check your durian at the door

by Kyle Ellison on

I recently witnessed something strange while checking into a Bangkok hotel room.

In a city that’s infamous for its sex tourism and is one of the undisputed party hot spots of Asia, there are any number of hotel activities I’m sure you would consider forbidden. Having fruit, however, probably isn’t the first one you would have guessed.

While checking into a room not far from Khao San Road, I witnessed a man being sternly told that he could not bring his fruit into his hotel room. Seemingly preposterous, this wasn’t just any old fruit, it was a durian, and not everyone in these parts is particularly fond of the durian.

Though we have recently reported here at Gadling on one blogger’s process of learning to love the durian, I never before had witnessed someone actually being turned away from a hotel room for mere possession of the fruit.

Native to Malaysia, Indonesia, and Brunei, a durian sort of looks like a coconut–if a coconut were to be used for torture. Covered in horrific looking spikes, it’s not the look of the durian that has turned people away from it, but rather, it’s the smell.

While there’s no arguing the exquisite taste of durian meat, the smell of this “forbidden fruit” is so unbelievably rancid explorers for hundreds of years have been commenting on its malodorous flesh. The 19th century British naturalist Alfred Russell Wallace commented while in Borneo “there are occasional wafts of flavour that call to mind cream-cheese, onion sauce, sherry-wine, and other incongruous dishes.”

Cream-cheese and onions? Yeah, I don’t want that in my hotel either.

Ultimately though, although it may be stinky, it’s not like the durian is actually dangerous or anything.

Or is it?

While many Southeast Asian vendors claim that the durian meat is exceptionally healthy for you, some recent events seem to suggest there are numerous ways durian might actually kill you. In 2010, a Malaysian politician was rushed to the hospital and nearly died after consuming four different varieties of durian. Similarly, in neighboring Indonesia three people did actually die when they partook in a fatal lunchtime cocktail of durian meat and distilled liquor.

Meanwhile, it’s rumored that you can kill a man simply by throwing a durian at his head.

So what ever became of the man and his forbidden fruits? He was forced to check them at the door, lest he be levied a fine of 1000 Baht ($33) for infesting the room with his fruit. In a hotel lobby teeming with massage girls, prostitutes, drunk backpackers, and a hippie who you just know had drugs on him, I feel there may have been bigger issues at hand than one man and his stinky fruit.

But after all, this is Thailand, and the “King of Fruits” deserves to be taken seriously, for better, or for worse.

Love travel tales? Follow the rest of the Vagabond Tales series here.

[Photo: Flickr; Marc van der Chijs]