Lincoln Cathedral quieter than usual as 176 year old bell gets repaired

Great Tom, the giant bell at Lincoln Cathedral that has struck the hour every hour since 1835, has stopped ringing.

The clapper has almost shared off, a church official said. The last time the bell was silenced was during the filming of The Da Vinci Code in 2005.

Lincoln Cathedral is one of the great cathedrals of Europe. The original cathedral was commissioned by William the Conqueror and consecrated in 1092. Fires and earthquakes caused a few rebuilds over the years and like so many cathedrals, different parts date to different centuries.

Still, it’s one of the best examples of Gothic architecture in England. The soaring nave and the three tall towers make it a memorable landmark.

One odd little bit of decoration is the Lincoln Imp. This is said to be one of two imps sent by the devil to cause mischief. They smashed the furniture, tripped the bishop, and caused general mayhem until an angel floated out of a book of hymns. One imp became scared and hid, while the other threw things at the angel. The angel then turned the more aggressive imp to stone while the cowardly imp ran away. An imp is still the symbol of the city of Lincoln.

Smaller bells will continue to ring the quarter hours and church officials hope to have it up by the end of the year.

Imp photo courtesy Wikimedia Commons.
Cathedral photo courtesy Geograph.

Five holiday cookies from around the world

I love good old American iced sugar cookies as much as the next person. Yet there’s a whole world of cookiedom out there, and the holdiays are the best excuse to do a little experimenting.

Whether you prefer your cookies buttery, spiced, crisp, or iced, there’s something to suit your…ahem, taste. Check out the following holiday favorites from around the world.

Springerle
These embossed, biscuit-like German cookies–usually flavored with anise–date back to the 14th century. They’re traditionally made using a wooden or ceramic mold (human figures are a common theme) or a rolling pin decorated with carved-out depressions. Think of them as edible art, especially if you have the talent and patience to ice them.

Shortbread
For butter sluts like me, few things beat a well-made piece of shortbread. True shortbread is Scottish in origin (the recipe we’re most familiar with today–flour, sugar, and butter–is attributed to Mary, Queen of Scots). Because the ingredients were considered luxury goods, shortbread became synonymous with festive occasions, including Christmas.

Shortbread has become ubiquitous throughout the UK, and similar (but inferior, in my humble opinion) cookies are found throughout Scandinavia. What makes good shortbread so special? The quality of the butter is paramount, but also the handling of the dough. Any baked good with a fat content that high is bound to be tasty, but overworking the dough–whether it’s rolled or patted out by hand–ensures a cookie the equivalent of a hockey puck. And I’m a purist: no crystallized sugar or fancy shapes for me, please. Just give me the cookie.

[Photo credits: Flickr user JeMaSiDi]Ma’amoul
These rich, Lebanese semolina cookie/pastry hybrids traditionally have their top half pressed into a decorative mold, while the bottom half is stuffed with a filling of chopped fruit and nuts such as dates, figs, walnuts, pistachios, walnuts, or almonds. Ma’amoul may be round or dome-shaped, or slightly flattened, and are categorically a form of shortbread due to their high fat (butter or shortening) content. They also contain rose and/or orange flower water, which gives them a subtle floral essence.

Ma’amoul are popular in the Levantine cuisine of the Eastern Mediterranean, as well as that of the Arab Persian Gulf states. They’re a frequent site during religious holidays an festivals, including Ramadan and Purim. In Jewish communities, date-filled ma’amoul are a favorite Hanukkah treat.

Mandelbrot
Some liken these twice-baked almond cookies to “Jewish” or “Askenazic” biscotti, and it’s a fairly accurate description. The name comes from the Yiddish for “almond bread.” Like biscotti, they’re shaped into a loaf, sliced, and baked twice to achieve a hard texture. They’re traditionally dunked in tea.

It’s believed that mandelbrot may have found it’s way to medieval Eastern Europe via the significant Jewish population residing in Northern Italy. According to food writer and Jewish cuisine expert Joan Nathan, the durability of the cookies made them a popular Sabbath dessert, because they traveled well via merchants and rabbis. Mandelbrot are also served at Hanukkah, because they’re parve (made with oil, instead of butter, aka dairy).

Melting Moments

Although similar to Mexican Wedding cookies–those tender little shortbread domes dusted with powdered sugar–Melting Moments don’t contain ground nuts (the Latin versions–which have been traced back to medieval Arab culture–always contain ground almonds or other nuts, which were then a delicacy).

I first discovered Melting Moments, which rely upon the addition of cornstarch for their trademark disintegrating quality, while working for a Kiwi chef in London. Charmed by the name, I soon discovered that these Australian/Kiwi cookies are holiday favorites. They’re ridiculously easy to make, consisting primarily of butter, powdered sugar, and flour in addition to the aforementioned cornstarch (called “corn flour” in UK/Aussie recipes). They’re often made as sandwich cookies filled with icing (because you can never have too many Melting Moments).

There are literally dozens of other holiday cookies out there, ranging from the anise-fragranced wafers of the Nordic countries and soft amareti or macarons of Italy, to the spice cookies of Central Europe. An easy affordable gift idea: bake up a batch that correlate to your recipient’s ethnic heritage or favorite/dream vacation spot. Happy holidays!

[Photo credits: ma’amoul, Flickr user àlajulia;melting moment, Flicker user ohdarling]

Amsterdam day trip: Van Brederode castle


Amsterdam has plenty of day trip opportunities. Smaller cities such as Delft are a short train ride away and the pretty countryside has many historic attractions.

Ruïne van Brederode is a castle in the town of Santpoort Zuid, about 25 minutes away by train from Centraal Station. From the Santpoort Zuid station, signs lead through quiet, tree-lined streets to the castle. The fifteen-minute walk is relaxing after the craziness of the big city.

Soon the castle comes into view. Ruïne van Brederode has a long history and has been through a lot over the years. The earliest known castle on this spot was built by William I, Lord of Brederode, starting around 1282. It guarded a narrow strip of land that connected the Dutch mainland to West Friesland. A map in the gallery to this post shows the site’s strategic importance.

The castle was besieged, taken, and destroyed in 1351 but was soon rebuilt, only to be set on fire by Spanish troops in 1573. By then the age of artillery was well underway and this type of castle was no longer militarily useful. The ruins were allowed to slowly crumble until they were restored in the nineteenth century.

%Gallery-140254%I was shown around by the caretaker, who lives in a small cottage next door. The castle grounds were quiet and we had the place almost to ourselves. There’s much to explore, including a large central tower that provides a splendid view of the rest of the castle and some of the countryside beyond. A small museum shows some of the artifacts dug up on the site, including some early stone cannonballs, perhaps from the siege of 1351, and a bit of stained glass with the boar’s-head crest of the Brederode family. You can even see wax figures of the former lord and lady of the castle, their faces reconstructed from their actual skulls.

The castle was quite modern for its time, with bathrooms in every room and an innovate square design for the main tower. It’s a shame it got so banged up by various armies. Parts of it are only foundations and the caretaker was quick to point out some errors in the nineteenth century reconstruction. Still, it makes for a relaxing and enjoyable day trip from Amsterdam and gets you out a countryside that most visitors miss.

If van Brederode whets your appetite for Dutch castles, also check out Muiderslot.

As I left, the caretaker presented me with bottles of Brederode Blond and Brederode Bruin, a traditional Dutch made in honor of the castle and bearing the boar’s head symbol of the Brederode family. The beer was as enjoyable as the castle and I heartily recommend both!

Don’t miss the rest of my series: Lowdown on the Low Countries.

Coming up next: One luxury and two budget hotels in Amsterdam!

This trip was partially funded by Amsterdam’s Tourism and Congress Bureau and Cool Capitals. All opinions, however, are my own.

The hidden gem museums of Paris

The City of Light. The City of Love. The City of Museums? Why not. With the Louvre’s 30,000 paintings and the Musée d’Orsay’s thousands-strong art collection, it’s easy to forget that there are other museums in the City of Light. In fact, almost 200 museums-both plus-sized and petite, illustrious and obscure-are sprinkled throughout the French capital, featuring everything from Picasso to Edith Piaf, submarines to sewers, eyeglasses to medical implements.

I spent a few months in Paris and, after I grew tired of dealing with the crowds at the popular museums, I sought out the lesser-known spots, the hidden gem museums of Paris. What gems did I find? I’ve included them below, plus asked a few Paris-loving friends to chime in.

Rachel Kaplan, author of Little Known Museums in and Around Paris and owner of the Paris-based tour guide company, French Links, is enamoured with the Jacquemart-André. This small museum was founded by the wealthy Edouard Andre and his wife, painter Nélie Jacquemart who would travel annually to Italy on art-amassing trips. By the late-19th century, they had the best collection of Italian art in France, including works by Donatello, Bottecelli, Tieopolo, and Perugino. In Kaplan’s words, it’s “the only museum where you can have Sunday brunch under a Tiepolo ceiling after visiting the greatest number of Italian Quatrocentro masterpieces outside the Louvre.”

Another gem of a museum where you can also eat well is the Baccarat Museum, which Kaplan says “manages to combine the Surrealism of Philippe Starck with the beauty of Baccarat crystal and also boasts one of the finest restaurants in Paris.” The former home of Marie-Laure, Viscountes of Naoilles, the Phillipe Starck-designed space on the Place des Etats Unis is the perfect venue for the near-priceless glassware on display, including a candelabra that once belonged to Tsar Nicholas II and an ornate chandelier plunged into water. The piece de resistance, however, is in-house eatery, the Baccarat Cristal Room where, as you’d expect, diners nibble on haute French fare in a crystal-laden ambience.

If all this clean glassware has you yearning for something murkier, then head to the sewers. The Musée des Égouts de Paris, or the Paris Sewers Museum is a subterranean tour taking visitors through the bowels of the city in more ways than one. But you don’t necessarily need a proclivity for ancient plumbing to appreciate these former sludge-strewn pipelines. Located under the Quai D’Orsay (next to the Musée d’Orsay), the one-hour tour includes a film and educational and interesting displays on how the 19th-century sewers functioned. So, plug your nose (yes, it’s a tad aromatic) and take the plunge.


The Musée Dupuytren exhibits artifacts of a different sort of unsavory nature: anatomical oddities. Founded by famed 19th-century surgeon, Baron Guillaume Dupuytren, this “freak show” boasts deformed skeletons, jarred mongoloid infants, displayed brains, and formaldehyde-preserved conjoined animals. Truly hidden behind an unmarked wooden door on the Rue de l’Ecole de Medecine, the museum is only open in the afternoon on weekdays, after lunch.

For historical artefacts that you can stomach, be sure to stop by the Musée Carnavalet in the Marais, one of Paris’ most charming neighborhoods. Crammed into two adjoining Renaissance-era mansions, the Carnavalet is dedicated to the history of Paris, starting with the Gallo-Roman period through the Middle Ages and up to the 19th century. Edmund White, who penned several books while living in the neighborhood, including The Flaneur: a Stroll Through the Paradoxes of Paris, says this is one of his favorite museums in the city. “There’s so much memorabilia of the history of Paris, everything from the crib of Napoleon III’s son to Proust’s bedroom intact, with its shabby furniture, the pile of notebooks that were next to his bed, the heavy awkward furniture his parents had bought.” This mishmash of historical objects also include the final letter French Revolutionary leader Robispiere ever wrote and an ancient recipe for frog leg soup.

Now that there’s a smoking ban in the City of Light, perhaps this museum is more apropos than ever: Musée du Fumeur. The Museum of Smoking is less kitschy and more interesting than you might think. Located in the 11th arrondissement, this diminutive museum boasts ancient toking instruments (including antique hookahs and 18th-century carved wooden pipes), illustrations and placards on the history of “lighting up,” and an intriguing picture gallery of famous smokers. If you’re suddenly inspired to light up, the gift shop sells plenty of smoking-related paraphernalia, including bongs. But before you get any wise ideas, it’s good to know there’s a police station next door.

If drinking is more your vice, put the Musée du Vin on your agenda. Located near the Eiffel Tower, the Wine Museum is part of a 15th-century stone query and displays historic viticulture artifacts. The museum’s frequent wine tasting events and two-hour wine-education classes in English help make this bibulous trip through wine making history a more sensory experience. Temporary exhibitions focus on history of vino producing such as the wine of ancient Egypt. The restaurant, housed in a medieval cellar, serves up classic French fare with, you guessed it, wine.

Model-turned-novelist Paulina Porizkova had a childhood dream of being locked in a museum over night. And, if she had to get shuttered in one, she’d most certainly choose the Nissim de Camondo, a mansion loaded with 18th-century decorative arts like fragile needlepoint chairs, paintings, and antiques. The Belle Époque-style kitchen is big enough to feed an army of aristocrats. “I’ve always loved visiting period houses that have been turned into museums; it’s like taking a time machine,” says Porizkova, a former Paris resident whose underrated novel A Model Summer takes place in the French capital. “I loved going to the Nissim and imagining myself living there.” Porizkova even liked the museum so much she had a smaller-version of the Nissim kitchen built for her New York townhouse.

The Musée de l’Orangerie may not have all the art of the nearby Louvre, but it has something you’ll never find at Paris’ largest art museum: rooms loaded with Impressionist and post-Impressionist works-from Monet to Matisse to Cézanne to Picasso-that you can have all to yourself. Or at least you’ll share them with far fewer art gawkers than you would elsewhere. The airy glass and stone building, formerly an orangery, is located between the Place du Concord and the banks of the Seine.

Ernest Cognacq and his wife, Louise Jay, may have become rich after founding La Samaritaine, the famed department store on the banks of the Siene, but their real legacy lies in the Musée Cognacq-Jay, their private art collection housed in the 16th-century Hotel Denon in the Marais. Go for the paintings by Boucher, Canaletto, Fragonard, and Tiepolo, but linger for the city’s best collection of 18th century decorative art, including Dresden China and elaborately carved snuffboxes.

After the popularity of the film Le Vie en Rose, interest in French singer Edith Piaf has never been greater. The eponymous two-room museum might not be the easiest place to find-it’s housed in on the fourth floor of a non-elevator apartment building in the Belleville neighborhood-but fans of the singer won’t regret the trek. Longtime Piaf friend, Bernard Marchois, runs the place and has crammed the two-rooms with many of Piaf’s possessions, including clothes, gold records, photos, and even a life-sized teddy bear. Admission is free, but visitors have to call ahead to get a security code.

Museums and politics in the West Bank

A new bill working its way through the Israeli government would put museums on Israeli settlements in the West Bank under Israeli law.

This piece of legislation is more than it seems, the Jerusalem Post reports. The real purpose of the bill, as its author, minister Uri Ariel of the National Union party makes clear, is to slowly annex the West Bank.

If this bill passes, Ariel hopes it will open the door for more Israeli law to be applied to the West Bank, gradually incorporating it into the rest of the country.

Currently museums on West Bank settlements are under military law, a product of the region being taken from Jordan in the 1967 war, and thus cannot get the same kind of funding as other Israeli museums.

The West Bank and Gaza strip are nominally part of the Palestinian Authority, but this government has had trouble receiving full international recognition and much of its land is actually owned by Israelis. Palestinians are barred from or have limited access to much of the West Bank because of Israeli settlements and their security zones, as this UN map shows.

The Knesset (Israeli parliament) education Committee has already passed the bill and it will probably be seen by the entire Knesset in the next two weeks.

I visited some West Bank museums when I was working as an archaeologist in the region in the early Nineties. The Israeli ones were mainly devoted to proving their right to the land and highlighting Muslim atrocities. The Palestinian ones were mainly devoted to proving their right to the land and highlighting Jewish atrocities.

In a country like Israel, history and politics always go hand in hand.