Tourism push threatens Turkey’s ancient sites

by Melanie Renzulli on

The age-old battle pitting historical preservation against tourism infrastructure development is coming to a fever pitch in Turkey. In an effort to increase tourism, which is set to earn Turkey $21 billion in 2011, the Turkish government recently transferred some archeological excavation permits from non-Turkish to Turkish universities. This unprecedented move, according to The Art Newspaper, is “a cracking of the whip over foreign scholars regarded as not working fast enough to transform the country’s extensive array of antiquities into tourist attractions.”

Turkey lays claim to an impressive catalog of antiquities, ranging from Greek and Roman ruins to the remains of ancient Hittite settlements to Byzantine and medieval Arab treasures. Its most famous archeological attraction is Ephesus, an ancient Greek and Roman city and the home of the Library of Celsus, one of the most iconic ruins of ancient Rome. Ephesus attracts more than two million visitors each year making it the perfect example for both sides of the preservation vs. tourism debate.

Infrastructure development to handle both the influx of tourists and the increased urbanization of Turkey’s populacealso threatens Turkey’s cultural heritage. For example, seven years ago, workers building a new station for the Istanbul metro system uncovered a Byzantine harbor which included the ruins of 32 buried ships. While a work stoppage was ordered to preserve these artifacts, Turkish officials, particularly Turkish Prime Minister Recep Tayyip Erdoğan who complained that “bits of old potsherds” were getting in the way of development, have grown weary with the slow progress of infrastructure projects. Other antiquities, such as the ancient Roman spa town of Allianoi, have already become victims to Turkey’s efforts to modernize. Allianoi now lies buried beneath the Ilya River as part of the Yortanlı Dam project.

In recent years, Turkey has emerged as one of the world’s fastest growing economies as well as an increasingly popular destination for tourists. It shall be interesting to see how Turkey’s antiquities fare as these two factors force the country towards more development.

Photo © Melanie Renzulli

Milwaukee Art Museum opens major exhibition on Impressionism

by Sean McLachlan on


An exhibition at the Milwaukee Art Museum is looking at Impressionism in a new light.

Impressionism: Masterworks on Paper is the first major exhibition to explore the drawings of famous Impressionists. Previous exhibitions have always focused on their paintings, such as Renoir’s Bathers with Crab, which is also part of the show and appears here in this photo courtesy Moira Burke.

The famous Impressionist exhibitions in Paris between 1874 and 1886 changed European art. Not only was the style vastly different than traditional painting, but the Impressionists emphasized drawing as a medium equal to that of painting. The exhibit gathers together more than 100 drawings, watercolors, and pastels by important artists such as Manet, Degas, Renoir, Cézanne, Seurat, Van Gogh, and Toulouse-Lautrec.

The Milwaukee Art Museum is one of Wisconsin’s great attractions, besides all the wonderful hiking, camping, and fishing. In addition to offering major shows such as this one, it boasts a collection of more than 25,000 works of art from a variety of different movements, from German Expressionism to Haitian folk art.

Impressionism: Masterworks on Paper runs from October 14, 2011 to January 8, 2012.

Destination spotlight: Chengyang Village in southern China

by Jessica Festa on

For those looking to get out of big cities of China and explore some of the smaller villages, the Chengyang Village in southern China should not be overlooked. This wooden village has a lot to offer visitors in terms of hiking, history, and culture.

Getting There

Located in the province of Guangxi, the village can be reached by bus from many of the bigger cities, including Longsheng (2-3 hours), Guilin (4-5 hours), and Liuzhou (5 hours). Many times you will need to change buses in Sanjiang. Once there, cross the river and go to the He Xi (West) station and catch a bus to Linxi (let the driver know you’re going to Chengyang).Accommodation

The most popular place to stay in Chengyang is Yang’s Guesthouse, which you can find by walking over the Wind-and-Rain Bridge. There are many amenities and features at the hotel, including Tai Chi classes, a bar/restaurant, tour guides, bicycle hire, and free internet. Credit cards are accepted, and visitors should expect to pay about Y50-Y60 per night. You can e-mail them at Yangsguesthouse@hotmail.com.

When I visited this village, I stayed at the Long Feng Hotel in the Bridge Scenic District (just tell your taxi driver the name of your hotel). This clean, wooden guesthouse includes free internet, television, guided tours, and a bar/restaurant that served the most delicious pancakes with honey. One thing people may not like is that there is a squat toilet and no sink, however, when staying in the more rural areas you shouldn’t expect for there to always be Western toilets available.

Things to Do

Unless you speak Chinese (and even then, the Chengyang villagers speak their own dialect), hire a guide. Not only will this relieve the stress of figuring out how to see all of the sites, it will also allow you to interact with locals, as the guide can act as a translator. The guide can also tell you the history of the sites you are looking at as well as give you more information on the culture of the area.

Walk through Chengyang (which is actually multiple villages in one), and take in the scenery, which includes serene streams, picturesque mountains, and ornate bridges. If you have a guide, hang out in the “Drum Room” where the men go to play games and smoke. Most of them will be excited to meet you and will ask you (via translator) about your home life as well as tell you what life was like growing up in China. You can also visit a tea house where you can see teas being made from scratch. The Oil Tea is a good choice and is made from peanuts, boiled tea leaves, puffed rice, and sugar. Along your walk, you can also see the women working to make indigo dye and sewing handicrafts. Because the village is surrounded by mountains, you can also add some difficulty to your walk by hiking up some of the nearby trails. This can also give you some great aerial views of the entire village.

Everyday at 10:30 and 3:30 in the center of the village in front of the outdoor stage, there is a Dong Minority Cultural Show. While you can expect to watch a lot of singing and dancing by villagers in traditional costumes, you should also expect for them to pull you up with them to sing and dance in the show yourself. Visitors should have no trouble catching on as long as they can do a conga line. One highlight act of the show includes a drinking song where the performers act out being drunk and onlookers take shots of rice wine.

Visiting the Wind-and-Rain-Bridge is also a must if you are in Chengyang. First of all, the architecture of the bridge is amazing, with 3 piers, 4 spans, 5 pavilions, 19 verandas, and 3 floors that include no nails. Wood, stone, and tile are all materials used in the bridges construction. It stretches across the Linxi River, and marketers sell handicrafts on the bridge. There are also small statues and pieces of art located along the sides of the bridge. If you would like to be a part of history, for Y10 you can actually have your name inscribed on the structure.

The Chocolate Show comes to New York

by Jessica Festa on

Did you know that the largest chocolate bar on record weighed 9,722.39 pounds and was created by JV “Grand Candy” Co Ltd., on September 10, 2010?

The 14th annual Chocolate Show will be held in New York from November 10-12, 2011, at the Metropolitan Pavilion. This show is the largest event in the world dedicated to chocolate, featuring more than 65 fine chocolate companies who will present an array of various chocolates and chocolate-inspired products. There will also be book signings by award-winning authors, workshops, cooking demonstrations, lectures, and fun chocolate-related activities for children, such as cupcake decorating, chocolate art & drawing, and creating delicious chocolate pasta.

A few of the many chocolate exhibitors you can expect to see include:

And, many more. Tickets are $30-$35 and can be purchased by clicking here.

Göbekli Tepe: the ancient temple that changed our view of the beginning of civilization

by Sean McLachlan on


On a dusty hilltop in southwestern Turkey is an ancient temple that shouldn’t exist.

In 9,000 BC, people set up a series of round buildings decorated with giant “T”-shaped pillars carved with pictures of animals and humans. The buildings are 10-30 meters in diameter with a taller pair of pillars in the center and smaller ones at regular intervals around the circumference. The pillars range from 3-6 meters tall and weigh 6-10 tons each.

The hauling, cutting, and setting up of the pillars would have taken a huge amount of work, especially considering that 11,000 years ago people had no metal tools, no agriculture, not even any pottery. The temple at Göbekli Tepe has taught us that people were setting up major buildings before they even lived in towns. It’s turned out idea of prehistory upside down.

Now Göbekli Tepe is undergoing conservation by the Global Heritage Fund in order to preserve it for future study and protect it from looters.

One of the most intriguing aspects of Göbekli Tepe is that only about 5 percent of the site has been excavated. Who knows what this temple, built by hunter-gatherers 6,000 years before Stonehenge, will teach us next?

[Both images courtesy Wikimedia Commons]