Destination on the edge: Mogadishu

by Tom Johansmeyer on

Mogadishu is the adventure traveler’s version of sex in public. The risk of getting caught defines the thrill. Unfortunately, the consequences cannot be compared. While a romp on your neighbor’s front lawn might get you a fine or some community service, a misstep in Somalia can cause nightmares for the rest of your life.

So, quiet simply, don’t go. If you don’t believe the United States, then listen to Canada. Listen to anybody who speaks sensibly on this. Don’t go to Somalia.

For every American who remembers October 3 and 4, 1993, Mogadishu’s Bakara Market brings a rare chill to the most resilient of spines. Visions of swarming Somalis rush into your mind, and nobody has forgotten the soldiers killed and wounded in the effort to capture warlord Mohammed Farah Aidid. The situation on the ground isn’t much better today, but if you crave increasingly greater thrills, this is about as crazy as it gets. Despite being one of the most dangerous places on Earth, you can explore Mogadishu without a military or United Nations escort. But, doing so would rank among your most foolish decisions.

The challenge begins when you are planning your trip. Online booking, you’ll realize, is a luxury still. There are some corners of the world that have been sidestepped by the internet age. In some cases, you won’t even be able to rely on the telephone. The hotels in Somalia do not take phone or online reservations, so your best bet is to find a travel agent that specializes in this sort of absurdity.

Work with the travel agent to book your flight, as well. The most reliable method appears to be chartering a flight that will drop you on a private airstrip outside the city. There is an airline that services Mogadishu via Dubai: Jubba Airways. So, if you insist on doing everything yourself, you do have options. The airline claims to have a strong safety record, but it obviously can’t help you once you’re on the ground. These days, a round trip ticket will set you back around $500. You can try to use FareCompare, but you already know that your comparing one airline to itself.

Of course, there’s a catch.

So, here’s the drill. You have to stay in Somalia for a week if you fly Jubba Airways. I tried to book a same day round trip, but had no luck (no, I wasn’t planning to buy the damned thing). Flights only pass through Mogadishu once a week, so you have to be really committed to this trip.

Flights are easier to book than accommodations. You can research hotels, but only a few are listed. So, you’ll have to take what you can get. As you make your selection, don’t sacrifice safety. There is no substitute for coming home alive. Tk appears to b the best alternative, but you will notice that security is not listed among the amenities. Also, there is another hotel with the same name – one that is considerably less desirable. Take notes, and make sure you study every detail. There are pitfalls everywhere, and some are avoidable.

There isn’t much to see and do (safely) when you cruise around Mogadishu. The main attraction is the Bakara Market, a large outdoor bazaar. You can haggle with the merchants and take full advantage of the decimated local economy. This is one place where the exchange rate will always cut your way. Also, you’ll be treading the same turf that was home to the famous operation immortalized in Mark Bowden’s Black Hawk Down. It all started at the Bakara Market.

For a unique type of shopper, the Bakara Market is nothing short of amazing. You can find deals on the basic goods that you’d normally pick up at a supermarket or drugstore, from basic medicines to food. Also, you’ll find the products that CVS just doesn’t want to carry. If you need to buy a rocket-propelled grenade (RPG), mortar or antiaircraft gun, look no farther! And, since no toy is worth a damn without batteries, there’s plenty of ammunition for sale in the Bakara Market. If you hear gunfire, someone’s probably just kicking the tires on a new AK-47. Think of it as giving Elmo one last tickle before whipping out your credit card.

It’s not all guns ‘n ammo, however. You can pick up a forged passport (for Somalia, Ethiopia or Kenya), fake birth certificates and diplomas (convince your mother you didn’t drink your tuition cash) and counterfeit currency.

Bakara Market can be crowded, and it is in a dangerous part of the world. So, you need to say alert the whole time you’re on the ground. The entire spectrum of risks – from pick-pocketing to kidnapping – is possible. Your odds improve if you don’t do anything stupid, though you violate that tenet simply by taking the trip.

Want to see what happens in the Bakara Market? Take a look below, unless you aren’t comfortable with graphic. If you can’t handle this video, though, you certainly don’t belong in Somalia.

Budget Travel: Honolulu

by Brenda Yun on

Summary:
The bustling metropolis of Honolulu is a far cry for the palm tree paradise otherwise known as Hawaii, but warm weather, Waikiki beach boys, and white sand beaches are still plentiful and plenty good reasons to make that journey across the Pacific.

While Honolulu is not known for its cheap airfares and hotels, both can be found. Once here and nestled in, both relaxation and adventure lurks around every corner. By day, head ‘mauka’ (to the hills) or ‘makai’ (to the ocean) for an outdoor adventure that could cost less than a penny. In the evening, watch the sunset surfers in Waikiki and dine at one of the great local eateries around town.

To be sure, Honolulu has just the right combination of activities for even the tightest of budgets.
Getting in:
Although ATA and one of Hawaii’s beloved airlines, Aloha, closed earlier last year, there are plenty of options to get to and from the mainland. Hawaiian Airlines is the best and only locally owned airline company that frequently flies from the west coast to Honolulu for cheap. For those living on the east coast, United Airlines is a good option. Flights from the west coast cost between $350-600 roundtrip, while fares from the east coast cost between $600-800. That might sound like a pretty penny, but (aside from Miami) Honolulu is the only tropical locale in the 50 states.

Where to stay:
Nearly all visitors to Honolulu stay in Waikiki, the tourism center of the islands. Hotels and B&B’s cost between $100-200 a night, but there are a handful of hostels that are close to the beach and quaint enough.

  • Just one year ago (February 2008), Hostels.com declared the Seaside Hawaiian Hostel as one of the top five hostels in the world! This hostel is close to the nightlife on Lewers Street in Waikiki, the bus lines on Kuhio Street and Kalakaua Ave, and just blocks from Waikiki Beach. Guests can choose between tastefully decorated regular or premium dorms, semi-private rooms, or perfectly private ensuites.
  • If you don’t mind the sparse decor, the convenience of the Pacific Ohana Hostel can’t be beat. This place is smack dab in the middle of Waikiki and just a block away from the International Marketplace, Waikiki Beach, and buses.
  • Finally, Hosteling International-sponsored HI-Waikiki and HI-Honolulu Hostels are quiet and comfortable options for those looking for privacy, cleanliness, and friendliness.

All of these options will cost between $20-35 per night for dorm rooms and $40-75 for private rooms.

What to do/see:

  • International Marketplace: The International Marketplace has been an island shopping tradition for tourists and kama’aina (locals) alike. Most of the market sits under a huge, century-old banyan tree in the heart of Waikiki. Over one hundred shopping stalls, artisan stands, and mainstream shops sell special gifts and souvenirs. There is also a pleasant food court tucked in the center of the market that offers a variety of local and international cuisine. Also called “Duke’s Lane” between Kalakaua Avenue and Kuhio Street; open daily from 10 AM – 10:30 PM
  • Surfing in Waikiki: This is pretty much a must-do activity. Even if you’re a beginner, it’s best to rent a real fiberglass board from a place like Blue Planet (in Kapahulu) or Hawaiian South Shore (near Ward). Board rentals should cost only $25-30 a day. Check out my article on lesser known surf breaks in Waikiki for information on where to avoid the crowds.
  • Diamond Head State Monument: One of the most famous volcanic craters in the world, Diamond Head overlooks Oahu’s southeastern shores. The crater was originally named “Leahi” because its silhouette resembles the “brow of the tuna.” British sailors gave it its current name upon arrival on Oahu’s shores because the calcite crystals on the crater glistened in the sunlight from a distance. They mistakenly thought there might be diamonds in the mountain. The crater is over 3,500 feet in diameter, and visitors can climb to the 760-foot summit. The observation deck was constructed at the summit in 1910 to provide military target sightings. The trail is paved almost the entire way but can be steep in spots. Be sure to wear sunscreen and bring water on the hike, as there is no fountain up top. #(808) 587-0300; Hours: 6 AM – 6 PM; $1 entry; $5 parking
  • Pali Lookout: The Nu’uanu Pali Lookout (“Cool Height Cliff”) overlooks the steep cliffs of the Ko’olau mountain range, and remains one of the best vistas on Oahu. In 1795, King Kamehameha and his warriors defeated the Oahu armies by sending them over the cliffs, thereby claiming his victory and uniting the Hawaiian islands. The breathtaking sight and the gruesome history of the battle fought here is enough to cause a chill to run up your spine. Add to that the incredible winds that pass through the Pali and you could certainly be swept off your feet. To get there: Exit off the Pali Highway, just before the first tunnel heading from town to Kailua. Hours: Daytime (weather permitting); Entrance is free

Places to eat:

  • Waiola’s Shave Ice: It’s not called a snow cone or shaved (with a ‘d’) ice. It’s shave (sans ‘d’) ice, and it’s the coolest – in more ways than one. Waiola’s has made a name for itself as one of the only shave ice stores that surpasses the quality of Matsumoto’s in Haleiwa on the North Shore. The ice is like eating clean, puffy snow. The act of eating your treat is plain and simple, but the ordering of it is not: start with how big you want it and what you’d like inside (ice cream or azuki beans?); then tell them what flavor(s); finally, request a topping (lilikoi cream or condensed milk?).
  • Zippy’s chili or Rainbow Drive-In’s plate lunch: Zippy’s is Hawaii’s version of Burger King (of which we have none). The only thing worth eating at Zippy’s is the chili – either on fries or rice and with shredded cheddar cheese on top. It’s not chunky or spicy like Texas chili, but it’s oh-so-‘ono’ (delicious)! If chili’s not your thing, then plate lunch should or will be. Head to Rainbow Drive-In on Kapahulu Avenue and order a huge mixed plate lunch for just $6.50, which will come with barbecue beef and chicken, garlic mahi, two scoops of rice, and a scoop of macaroni salad. YUM!
  • 7-Eleven spam musubi: I once wrote an acrostic poem about my love of spam that went something like this:
Salty slab of not quite bacon –
Pig flesh so curiously pink,
Are you ever not on my mind,
Mocking my every taste bud?

If I need a pick-me-up or just something to fill my tummy, I head to the local convenience store and purchase this Hawaiian staple for just $1.29. Now, 7-Eleven offers a variety of spam musubi options: regular, deluxe (with seaweed and egg), Spam Lovers! (an extra large slab of spam), and katsu (breaded and fried spam). There is a reason why we Hawaiians love spam to such a degree that we consume more of it than any other locale in the world (almost 5 million cans of Spam are purchased per year). As the major Pacific port during World War II, spam was brought to the islands by the boatload mainly because it didn’t require refrigeration and it provided protein and sustenance for military personnel.


Once you experience the sights, the smells, and as Pico Iyer recently reflected upon, the sounds of Honolulu, you will head home Hawaii-fied and likely yearn to return for more of the same and a little something different sooner rather than later.

Feathers fall to floor for “Folies”

by Tom Johansmeyer on

“Les Folies Bergere” is about to come to an end. The topless review, which has called the Tropicana hotel and casino home for 49 years is about to take its stripping off the Strip. The show will close on March 28, 2009, in order to make room for something new … though no details have been released. Ron Thacker, president of the Tropicana has not explained the decision, saying only that his company is “”extremely proud to have been part of such an iconic Las Vegas production.”

The demise of Folies leaves only one full-scale showgirl production on the Strop: Bally’s “Jubilee!” Once a distinguished tradition (with the exception of an awful movie, of course), these shows are being pushed aside by the likes of Cirque du Soleil.

[Via MSNBC]

Last look at tips for the inauguration

by Tom Johansmeyer on

Tomorrow is the last day before the new president is sworn in. You are among the 2 million people (at least) heading into our nation’s capital for this event. A new president will take office, and unless you’re invited to one of the evening’s inaugural balls, you’ll need someplace to go.

Don’t worry; the Wall Street Journal has been thinking of you. The newspaper’s reporters have compiled a list of attractions.

National Portrait Gallery: In particular, take a look at the “Mask of Lincoln” exhibit.

Corcoran Gallery of Art: Catch a glimpse of Richard Avedon’s shot of a skeptical Barack Obama.

Torpedo Factory: No longer a munitions center, the former U.S. Naval Torpedo Station is now inhabited by artists.

Kennedy Center: Aretha Franklin will be on the stage on Monday.

And, there are more, so many more. Believe it or not, there is more in Washington, D.C. than the inauguration!

[Many thanks to the fine folks at the Journal for pulling this list together]

Photo of the Day (1.17.09)

by Brenda Yun on


It really is no wonder why we say, “We’ll cross that bridge when we get/come to it.” For me, crossing a bridge symbolizes a journey from one state of mind to another.

Wherever it is you travel in the world, bridges are some of the most beautiful sights. Take the London Bridge, the Bridge of Sighs in Venice, or the longest teak bridge the world, which can be found in Myanmar. Robert James Waller’s famous novel, The Bridges of Madison County, also speaks to the nostalgia of bridges.

Sometimes, the bridges in our own backyard are the most beautiful, which is what cgrubbs captures here in this breathtaking photo of bridge, nature, and sky. This photo reminds me how you don’t have to travel across a bridge in order to be transported to another world. Sometimes just seeing one that blends in so perfectly with its surroundings is enough.

If you have some great travel shots you’d like to share, be sure to upload them to the Gadling pool on Flickr. We might just pick one as our Photo of the Day!