Red Corner: Communist Statue Parks

Yesterday’s Red Corner post discussed the handful of Lenin statues which remain standing in various corners of the former Evil Empire. Most were simply never pushed over and stand today in the same spot in which they were erected so many years ago.

If you are interested in checking some of these out, but not so thrilled with traveling to a place like Omsk to do so, there is another, much easier way to view these rare and endangered statues: Statue Parks.

There are currently three substantial parks which have rescued statues from throughout the former Warsaw Pact and now exhibit them for curious tourists who missed the whole communist experience (and are now willing to pay to see it).

These bronze and marble petting zoos are a very surrealistic experience where statues which were once focal points of squares and parks are now corralled together in a mish-mash of gigantism and totalitarianism, the homage they once evoked belittled by the presence of so many clone-like reproductions assembled in one place-not to mention the absurdity of their stoic visages, frozen in another era, still trying so hard to be taken seriously.

Graveyard of Fallen Monuments, Moscow
This casual park across from Gorky Park has just a few communist statutes mixed in with hundreds of others that have nothing to do with the Soviet era. A light and airy atmosphere blankets the area and really softens up the more notorious statues. History, as is often the case in Russia, is somewhat airbrushed and improved in this presentation.

Szobor Park, Hungary
Just a short bus ride from Budapest, Szobor Park is more of a modern art arrangement in which mammoth communist statues are presented in a stark and powerful manner to really drive home the horror and brutality of the period.

Grutas Park, Lithuania
My personal favorite. Commonly referred to as Stalin World by locals, this park is located amongst acres of birch trees and beautiful lakes; the contrast of evil men against this beautiful landscape is truly unnerving. Grutas Park has more statues than any other park, as well as a zoo, museums, cafes, and even replicas of the train carriages in which thousands of Lithuanians were hauled off to Siberia-by the orders of the very leaders immortalized in the park.

Word for the Travel Wise (01/25/06)

A few years back when I was spending more time in Romania, but had some time to spend in Hungary and enough time to get lost in Budapest alone I found myself in several exciting places. On my way to Statue Park I got a little turned around, but once back on the right course I met this friendly Canadian girl who was traveling alone as well and headed in the same direction. We decided to check out the gigantic memorials from the Communist dictatorship together and while her company was great it was a local Hungarian gentleman that stole my heart. Earlier that day I had taken a trip up to Castle Hill where he was working, answering several sight-seeing individuals questions. I don’t know how it happened or what word triggered our half hour long exchange of eastern and western linguistic study, but he wanted to make sure his accent was as pure sounding of any westerner, say from Portland. In exchange he wanted me to sound like an eastern European woman.

Today’s word is a Magyar (Hungarian) word used in Hungary:

Köszönöm – (ker-ser-nerm) thank you

Looks tricky at first, but this one is actually fairly easy. The Hungarian lingo is a Finno-Ugric language, which you can learn more about at Wikipedia, right now let’s stick to the places you can learn it for free. Hungarotips is a completely free site with beginner, intermediate, and advanced lessons. This impulzus web page has everything you’d basically find in a LP guide. There’s no audio, so read a little about the alphabet and then find someone who’s willing to make sure you speak like a local. The verbal exchange will be very rewarding I am sure.

Hungary’s Robin Hood

I don’t check out Salon Magazine as often as I should largely because I get sick of waiting for the long ads to show as I enter Salon Premium. But I should check it more often. The articles are always quite good. Snarky, but informative. I guess I’d go back a LOT more if they brought back their travel section: Wanderlust. I LOVED Wanderlust. I even check out some of the old Wanderlust archives every so often. And remember we did a podcast way back when with Lonely Planet’s Don George? Guess what? He basically started Wanderlust.

Anyway, all this is to say that I found an interesting piece in Salon today about a Hungarian guy known as the Whiskey Robber (AKA Attila Ambrus). As the article itself points out, the story could be something from a Coen brothers film. The guy, apparently good looking…judge for yourself from the picture…I guess he looks a bit like Colin Ferrell. Anyway, his antics and past have inspired a cabaret theater show, a hit song, a Hollywood film deal and a growing worldwide following. He is kind of the Robin Hood of Eastern Europe…and with a name like Attila, well, you can’t lose with that as a story line. Anyway, great story. Give it a read.

Budapest Blog

Budapest is either a city you fall in love with instantly and count the reasons why or a city you fall in love with and have no real explanation other than “because.” It’s a beautiful city located on the Danube bursting with history and rich cultural experiences waiting to happen. Oldmate provides his detailed tales in the city on Travel Blog, a place for free travel inspiration from globe trotters like you and me. In his account Oldmate clearly states his attraction to Hungarian women playing a key role in his love for the city (not one of my own key interests), but furthers the passion behind the city. From the eclectic mixture and style of architecture to the many adjoining bridges (which he provides great historical background on), he proclaims it a must-see destination.

Accompanied by some nice pics of the Chain Bridge, Royal Palace, Fisherman’s Bastion, Hero’s Square and the Parliament building it’s a nice blog to read if you plan on heading that way anytime soon. Another recommendation is the popular Pestiside blog full of news, culture, gossip, and other useful bits of information on cosmopolitan Budapest.

Siya!