Red Corner: Hoofing it in Kyrgyzstan

by Neil Woodburn on

One of the few remaining, great horse-riding nations left on this planet is Kyrgyzstan. This former Soviet Republic, nestled in the mountainous territories of Central Asia, is home to a slice of mankind still trotting about on their horses minding their herds. Most remain dressed in traditional garb that hasn’t changed in hundreds of years. The same could be said of their ancient yurt tents still widely in use today.

One of the greatest regrets I have of traveling in Kyrgyzstan was not stopping for a few days in one of these remote valleys populated by this anachronistic society and riding around with them.

It would have been difficult to do so, as I was merely passing through in a minivan at the time, but now a number of travel agencies specialize in just that. A recent article in The Independent follows the tracks of a small group of women who embarked on a ten-day horseback tour through the Tien Shan Mountains in northern Kyrgyzstan. I got the feeling that the tour wasn’t as immersed in authenticity as I imagined such a remote trip to be, but nonetheless, it appears a very cool journey indeed.

Red Corner: Peter Hopkirk’s Central Asia comes Alive

by Neil Woodburn on

Until just recently, Central Asia had all but disappeared from the world’s consciousness. Swallowed up by the Soviet Union in the early part of the 20th century, places like Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan, and Kyrgyzstan simply vanished anonymously from the world stage.

After gaining their independence towards the end of the century and struggling through a period of economic hardship, however, the ‘Stans of the former USSR are back in the spotlight thanks to oil deposits and large Muslim populations.

Back in the spotlight, you ask? When was a place like Kazakhstan ever in the spotlight?

Central Asia was actually a major center of conflict and interest in the 19th century as Russia and Britain fought over the region in a long running series of affairs known as the Great Game. While this conflict has mostly been forgotten by the modern world, one amazing author has struggled to keep it alive through a series of commanding books that are some of the finest historical reads you’ll ever come across. Author Peter Hopkirk has written a handful of novels dealing with the Great Game which are now, according to The Telegraph (UK), being re-released due to increased interest in the region.

Hopkirk’s finest work, appropriately titled The Great Game, is such an amazing read involving spies, espionage, and double-agents that it is almost impossible to accept the fact that everything mentioned is true. If you’re planning on traveling through the region, be sure to read it; Hopkirk referenced nearly ever place I visited in Uzbekistan. If you become a fan, and you will, you can move on to Foreign Devils on the Silk Road and Trespassers on the Roof of the World-two books whose alluring titles should whet your appetite for more.

Red Corner: Roughing it in Kyrgyzstan

by Neil Woodburn on

One of the most remote places I’ve ever been, where I felt I slipped back hundreds of years in time, was Kyrgyzstan. Although my trip was ten years ago, I was happy to discover in a recent article in The Times (UK) that not much has changed.

Journalist Tony Kelly ventured into this remote region on a direct flight from London and quickly left civilization behind. He headed into the Tien Shan Mountains, popular with trekkers and horseback riders, where he easily accomplished his goal of staying in a traditional yurt-a large round tent made of felt. He also visited the pride of Kyrgyzstan, Lake Issyk-Kul (which I found rather disappointing after all the hoopla buildup I had heard during my own travels through the country).

What’s most appealing about Kelly’s travels was his manner of doing so. He took advantage of the Community Based Tourism (CBT) organization to arrange home stays throughout the country for a little less than $10 a night. While you certainly can’t beat the cost of such organizations, far more rewarding is the wonderful experience gained by staying with a family, eating their food, and living their daily lives, that you simply can’t gain from a hotel stay-if in fact the Tien Shan Mountains actually had any hotels.