Nepal plots to regain Everest “youngest” record

by Kraig Becker on

Yesterday we heard how China was instituting age requirements for mountaineers hoping to climb Everest from the North Side of the mountain. These new restrictions are a direct response to 13-year old Jordan Romero successfully reaching the summit last month, setting off a heated debate in the climbing community about just how young is too young to climb the tallest mountain on the planet.

That debate is sure to get heated all over again, as Himalayan mountain guide Pemba Dorje Sherpa has announced that he is looking for a suitable Nepali child to take to the summit in an effort to break Jordan’s record. He has even gone so far as to say that he may even take his own son to the top of the world. The boy is currently nine years old, but will turn ten before the 2011 spring climbing season, when the expedition is expected to take place.

Dorje says that he feels all climbing records pertaining to Everest should be held by people indigenous to the Himalaya, and the Nepali government seems to agree. The Tourism Ministry in Nepal, which is responsible for issuing climbing passes, has set a requirement that states all climbers must be 16 years of age or older to climb Everest from the South Side, but they have already given the Sherpa permission to proceed with his plans none the less. Dorje is an Everest record holder himself. Back in 2004 he set the speed record for climbing the mountain in just 8 hours and 10 minutes.

This news fuels the fears that many in the climbing community had when they heard that a 13-year old was attempting Everest. The concern has been that younger and younger climbers would continue to climb these very dangerous mountains in an effort to push the “youngest” records even lower. So again, the question is how young is too young?

[Photo credit: Pavel Novak via Wikipedia Commons]

China sets age limits for climbing Everest

by Kraig Becker on

Last month 13-year old American Jordan Romero climbed Mt. Everest amidst a flurry of media coverage and controversy, with many debating the wisdom of letting a boy his age climb the world’s highest mountain. At the time, Romero was forced to climb from the Chinese controlled Tibetan side of the mountain, as Nepal has a strict age requirement that forbids anyone under the age of 16 from making the attempt. China had no such restrictions in place, and as a result Romero and his team were able to proceed with their successful expedition.

This week the China-Tibet Mountaineering Association made a move to block future climbs such as Jordan’s. The CTMA, which is in charge of issuing permits to climb Everest’s North Side, has amended its requirements to now include age limits, both on the high and low end. The new regulations say that all climbers wishing to climb on the Tibetan side of the mountain must now be between the ages of 18 and 60. The move marks the first time that there have been a maximum age restriction placed on either side of Everest.

Those that fall outside of that age range have been given a slight glimmer of hope however, as the CTMA has said that they will consider other climbers, both older and younger, if they can provide sufficient proof of their good health. This move is likely to have the most impact on older climbers though, as officials have said they will not consider anyone under the age of 16 at all, matching Nepal’s age restriction.

In case you’re wondering, the oldest Everest climber ever is Min Bahadur Sherchan, who reached the summit at the age of 76 back in 2008.

Himalayan High: On the trail (part 2)

by Kraig Becker on

Following a rest day in Namche Bazaar, the trek to Everest Base Camp resumes with a 9km (5.5 mile) hike to Tengboche, the next significant village along the route. While 9km doesn’t especially sound like a lot, it is the more than 400 meters (1312 ft) of altitude gain that ends up taking it’s toll on trekkers. Most of the days that follow are similar in nature; moderate distances that are made all the more challenging by the ever increasing altitude.

The trail changes noticeably after setting out from Namche. The thinning air becomes more of an issue for hikers to deal with, and a thick, heavy dust is everywhere. That dust is kicked up by trekkers, Nepali yaks carrying heavy loads, and the brisk winds that are common at altitude. While it seems innocuous at first, after a day or two, you’ll start to notice that the dust irritates your eyes, covers your clothing, and gets in your lungs, helping to bring on the dreaded Khumbu Cough, a persistent hack that can be painful and difficult to shake. Nearly everyone who treks in the Himalaya will experience the condition to some degree or another, and while my case of the Cough wasn’t so bad while I was in Nepal, it seemed to worsen, after I returned home.

The first few days of the trek are undeniably scenic, with mountain peaks surrounding the route, and glacier fed rivers rushing by the trail. But after leaving Namche Bazaar behind, that scenery changes dramatically with the snow capped peaks of the Himalaya towering high over head. Everest, and its twin, the 8516 meter (27,940 ft) Lhotse are common sights at that point, as is the 6812 meter (22,349 ft) Ama Dablam, which cuts a striking profile along much of the route. That mountain is far lesser known than its famous 8000 meter counterparts, but it is likely to be the one that sticks in your mind long after you’ve left Nepal, and the Himalaya, behind.Most of the mountain villages after Namche are sleepy little towns with few amenities. The teahouses become a bit more spartan the higher you go and the shops have fewer goods to sell, although their prices continue to rise with the altitude. Still, these villages each have a unique charm and character that offers visitors something new and different. For instance, in Tengboche, which is located at 3867 meters (12,867 ft) travelers can visit the oldest Buddhist monastery in the region, and the view of the sun climbing over the nearby mountains in the morning is a breathtaking sight.

From Tengboche it is on through the beautiful and fragrant rhododendron forests to Dengboche, which falls at 4410 meters (14,468 ft), and another day off. Much like the previous rest day in Namche however, the day is far from restful. Most trekkers wtill make a challenging acclimatization hike up a local summit to take in the tremendous views of Lhotse, Ama Dablam, and Island Peak, a mountain that is popular with climbers prepping for Everest. The nearby Amphu Lapcha pass is also on display, with its fluted ice walls making an impressive, and striking, impression.

After a stay in Dengboche, trekkers will next head upwards to Lobuche (4900 meters/16,076 ft), passing the somber sight of a number of monuments to fallen climbers and Sherpas, along the way.These monuments include a shrine to Scott Hall, an American mountain guide who perished on Everest back in 1996, and figured prominently in Jon Krakauer’s bestseller Into Thin Air.

Finally, the trail leads up to Gorakshep, the last stop before Base Camp itself. By that point, you’ve climbed up to 5183 meters (17,004 ft), and with the treeline far below, the dry conditions and higher winds mean that there is even more dust for hikers to deal with. Gorakshep is more a ramshackle collection of buildings than an actual village, as it mostly consists of a couple of teahouses and not much more, but trekkers appreciate a place to rest, catch their breath, and get some food before proceeding up to their ultimate destination.

Upon reaching Gorakshep, most members of my trekking group were really feeling the effects of altitude to some degree or another. Many were taking Diamox, a drug that helps alleviate the symptoms of altitude sickness and some were suffering greatly from a combination of the colder weather, the thin air, and the Khumbu Cough. More than half were experiencing GI issues, but despite all of that, spirits were high and there was an air of excitement in the group. We were closing in on Base Camp, and the literal high point of the trip.

Next: Everest Base Camp

Himalayan High: A visit to Namche Bazaar

by Kraig Becker on

One of the most famous and popular stops on the way to Everest is a village called Namche Bazaar, which is located at 11,286 feet (3440 meters). Most trekkers reach Namche on their second day of hiking, but to get there they must first conquer a very long, and challenging hill that is a test of stamina for just about anyone. In fact, that day on the trail is one of the most challenging of the entire trek, as you gain more than 2600 feet (800 meters) in altitude. Fortunately, nearly everyone who makes the trek ends up spending an extra day in Namche, giving them a chance to rest, acclimatize, and explore the place further.

Nestled along the crescent shaped slopes of the Khumbu Valley, Namche Bazaar is both charming and exhausting all at the same time. The narrow alleyways are lined with gear shops and teahouses, but you’ll have to climb more steps than you’d care to count just to visit any of them. It is especially disheartening when you arrive in the village after 3 or 4 hours of climbing, only to to discover that the lodge that you’re staying in happens to be on one of the upper tiers, and you’ll have to climb yet more stairs just to get to it. Luckily, Namche has some of the most comfortable and inviting teahouses in the entire region. You might even get a warm shower (for an extra charge!) and a TV in the common room.




With a population of roughly 1500 people, Namche is the largest town in the Khumbu Valley, and as such, has a number of amenities that you won’t find as you go higher. For instance, there is an actual bank in Namche, not to mention a police checkpoint, and a karaoke bar. Internet cafes are common as well, although I’m pretty sure they measure their connection speeds in terms of “baud” and not “megabits”.That population in Namche swells dramatically during the spring and fall trekking seasons of course, with backpackers and climbers flocking to the area in droves. It is not uncommon to hear a half dozen languages being spoken while you stroll the cobblestone streets past the numerous gear shops, and if there is anything that Namche has an abundance of, it is gear shops. If you’re a few days into the trek, and you find you’re in need of some piece of gear, then chances are you can find it in Namche Bazaar. Whether it’s boots, sleeping bags, or warmer clothes, you’ll find everything you could possibly need, often at excellent prices. Some of the gear is authentic, some are cheap knockoffs, but the village is an outdoor gear lovers dream come true, and while it is possible to resupply on some items later in the trek, everything gets more expensive the higher you go.

As I mentioned, you’ll actually spend a “rest day” in Namche to help you get use to the altitude and give you time for a bit of recovery. But that doesn’t mean that you’ll be taking it easy while you’re there. In fact, on my second day in Namche, my trekking group was up bright and early, as usual, and after breakfast we were on our way up a nearby mountain to continue working on our acclimatization. On that morning climb we actually went up an additional 1300 feet (400 meters), and got our first views of Everest, Lhotse, and one of the most beautiful mountains on the planet, Ama Dablam.

With our acclimatization climb out of the way, we were back in Namche by lunch time, and had the rest of the afternoon to spend at our leisure. Most of us took it easy, taking a nap, curling up with a good book, or playing cards in the lodge’s common room. Namche is the first part of the trek where altitude sickness begins to become a real concern, and it is important that you not only work on acclimatizing, but also get plenty of rest. You’re also burning a lot of calories on the trek and expending a lot of energy, therefore you’ll spend your rest days eating plenty of food and drinking lots of water as well.

Before long, your stay in Namche is over, and you’re back on the trail to ever higher, and ever smaller, villages. Each has their own unique character and each brings you one step closer to your ultimate goal – Everest. But when you depart Namche, you truly feel like you’re stepping into the High Himalaya and moving into more remote territory. The first few days are just a warm up for the adventure that is just ahead.


Next: On The Trail (Part 2)

Himalayan High: On the trail (part 1)

by Kraig Becker on

If you’ve been following the series of stories on my recent trek to Everest Base Camp, you already know that any trip to the Himalaya begins with a visit to Kathmandu, but before you can actually start the hike, you’ll also have to hop a flight to Tenzing-Hillary Airport in Lukla as well. Once in Lukla, the trek actually gets underway, quite literally, immediately after you get off the plane. You won’t be picked up by any cars, taxis, or even a bus, but instead you’ll collect your pack, walk up a flight of stone stairs, and onto the path. The very same path that will eventually lead into the High Himalaya, and on to Everest itself.

But before you can go any higher, you must first go lower, and for the first day of the trek, you’ll actually be moving down. Lukla is located at 9380 feet (2860 meters), but in order to begin the acclimatization process, you’ll drop all the way down 8700 feet (2652 meters) as you make the hike to Pakding, the first stop on the way to Everest.

The initial day on the trail is a relatively easy one, as you’ll only spend about three hours hiking, on a mostly smooth, and easy to follow, route. Along the way you’ll wander through small villages built right onto the side of the mountain, and past Buddhist monuments covered in scared sutras, while the beautiful peaks of the Himalaya tower high overhead.

Even at that early stage of the trek you’ll begin to get a sense of what you can expect on the road ahead. The trail winds up and down steep slopes and across a number of suspension bridges that hang above gaping chasms, while an ice blue river, fed from a distant glacier, roars by far below. The trees and flowers are lush and beautiful, and in April, one of the prime times to visit the Khumbu Region, the air is filled with the fragrant scents of springtime in the mountains. Cool winds stir through the local flora and send dust from the trail into the air, something that is barely noticeable at lower altitudes, but will come back to haunt hikers in the days ahead.The road is far from empty, and you’ll encounter plenty of other trekkers along the way. Some will be in large groups, numbering close to 20, with several guides and a gaggle of porters in tow. Other, smaller, groups will be traveling independently, carrying their own packs and navigating their way without the use of a guide at all. But no matter if they’re part of a large, organized trek or going it alone, there is a camaraderie amongst trekkers on the trail, with friendly greetings, plenty of banter, and a lot of good-natured ribbing.

Trekkers aren’t the only ones who frequent the trail however, as there are plenty of Nepalis traveling between villages as well. Most impressive of these are the porters that you frequently see along the way, most of whom are carrying large, very heavy loads, up the steep mountain roads. While most of us are trying desperately to catch our breath, carrying just a 20 pound pack, these guys are hauling 100 pounds or more up into the very thing air. Worse yet they make it look easy, which can be rather dejecting at times.

Traveling through the Khumbu Valley is a challenge, especially as you move to higher altitudes. Fortunately, at the end of the day, you’re not climbing into a tent and hoping to get a good nights sleep. Instead, you’ll be staying in traditional Nepali teahouses, which have been a mainstay in the region for centuries. These teahouses offer simple accommodations with rooms that lack electricity and heat, but are small and comfortable, with a bed to roll your sleeping bag out on. They also have large common rooms where trekkers gather at the end of the day for warm meals, hot tea, and an evening of conversation and playingcards. A stay in the teahouse offers rest and relaxation, and a dash of local culture, that is an indelible part of any Himalayan adventure.

As I mentioned, the first day of the trek is short and not especially challenging. Trekkers drop in altitude to begin the acclimatization process, and for the most part, the hike is a pleasant walk through a beautiful area. But the second day is a completely different story. On Day 2, you’ll spend six to eight hours on the trail, and you’ll gain more than 2600 feet (800 meters) in altitude. Most of that will come after lunch, when you’ll begin a major climb that helps to make this one of the toughest days of the entire trek.

The final destination for that day is a place called Namche Bazaar, one of the larger, and more famous, villages in the Khumbu Valley. But in order to get to that place, you’ll need to climb a major slope. One that will test even the best conditioned trekkers. It is a long, grueling climb, that leaves you exhausted, gasping for breath, and more than ready for a break. But you’ll also feel a sense of accomplishment as well. You’ve conquered the first major hurdle of the trek, and you’ve climbed up to 11,305 feet (3446 meters). Fortunately, Namche Bazaar is also the first of two rest stops along the way, and the day after that long, brutal climb, you’ll have an opportunity to recuperate, acclimatize, and prepare for the journey ahead.

Next: A Visit To Namche Bazaar