Seattle Ranked ‘Best City For Hipsters’ According To Travel & Leisure

by Laurel Miller on

So Travel & Leisure has published a list of “America’s Best Cities for Hipsters.” This is amusing – and a wee bit annoying) to me for a variety of reasons – not least of which because Seattle makes the top of the list. I’ve lived here (actually “there,” because as I write this, I’m in a sublet in Oakland) for nearly three years. Apparently, I’m reverse-trending, because San Francisco is #3 (Portland, OR is #2).

As the sun (metaphorically – this is Seattle we’re talking about) sets on my time in the Pacific Northwest and I prepare to relocate back to the Bay Area for what I hope to be at least a couple of years, I’m filled with mixed emotions. Hipster-mocking and -baiting has been one of my favorite pastimes in Seattle, which is both ironic and hypocritical of me when you take T & L‘s definition of “hipster” into consideration:

“They sport vintage bowling shoes and the latest tech gear-but they also know all the best places to eat and drink. [The magazine] ranked 35 metropolitan areas on culturally relevant features like live music, coffee bars, and independent boutiques. To zero in on the biggest hipster crowds, we also factored in the results for the best microbrews and the most offbeat and tech-savvy locals.

It’s our take on the debated term hipster….whatever your take, you generally know hipsters when you see them-most likely in funky, up-and-coming neighborhoods. A smirking attitude toward mainstream institutions means they tend to frequent cool, often idiosyncratic restaurants, shops, and bars-the same kinds of venues that appeal to travelers looking for what they can’t find at home. There’s also an eco-conscious influence in contemporary hipsterdom.”

So let me get this straight: I’m a hipster because I care about the environment, and I write about food, thus I eat and drink in places that are too idiosyncratic for mere mortals. And jeez, I just edited a craft beer guide. And I really support my local indie businesses. Conversely, I know jack about tech, and you will never, ever see me in a pair of bowling shoes. I also want to bitch-slap the bejesus out of smirky, pretentious funksters who feel the need to categorize themselves in order to maintain a sense of self. Cliques are for high school, kids.

[Image via Flicker user Conor Keller fortysixtyphoto.com]I also find it deeply ironic that a luxury magazine likes to think it knows what’s hip, because real hipsters love nothing more than a bargain, whether it’s $2 happy hour PBR’s or a sweet bowling shirt from Value Village. I can assure you the average T & L reader does not shop at Value Village.

What I find interesting, however, is that part of my mixed feelings about leaving Seattle have to do with its very hipsterness. I love street fashion, vintage, indie anything, tattoos and food artisans (hipster alert!). People watching has been one of my favorite activities in Seattle, because most Seattlites have such great style. It’s a city where the alternative-minded can grow old semi-gracefully, without looking like roadkill from Gen X or beyond. In Seattle, no one gives a f— about what you look like, or what you’re into. You can just be.

It’s sheer coincidence that last week, while reacquainting myself with Berkeley (where I lived for nearly a decade), I wondered why it is the natives here have no style (in my hipster eye view, pilled fleeces, flowy hemp clothing and ergonomic shoes are terminally unhip). I already missed Seattle’s eclectic street style, which never fails to inspire, amuse, and yes, sometimes horrify me (Boys, please stop with the neon, nuthugger skinny ankle jeans. Just sayin’).

Is this essentially a very shallow essay on an incredibly superficial topic? Yes, absolutely. But if it is a “tipping point” as T & L claims, then hell, I’m game. I’m ultimately leaving Seattle – an amazing, beautiful, vibrant city – because the climate kicked my ass (see my forthcoming post on “Sleeping In Seattle: SAD And Its Side Effects”). I’m back in the Bay Area because the economy is simmering and for someone in the food business, this is Ground Zero.

You can’t have it all, and the grass is always greener. Those cliches aren’t very hip, but they’re true. I miss all the hipsterness that once surrounded me, but I also love seeing sun, citrus trees and the Bay Area’s unbeatable food scene again. And that, in a nutshell, is why I’m trading down to a place a little less hip. I can always visit Seattle when I’m feeling frumpy.

[Image via Flickr user Andrew . Walsh]

12 Free Things To Do In Buenos Aires, Argentina

by Jessica Festa on

Buenos Aires, Argentina, is a beautiful country with 200 years of history, graceful tango and a vibrant art culture that can be seen on every street corner. The city is completely flat, making it the perfect place to explore by foot. While there are many options of things to do in Buenos Aires, they are not all free or budget-friendly. Luckily, I got the chance to explore the city with locals and discover the worthwhile sites that won’t break your bank.

Take a free walking tour

While my hostel advertised walking tours for 80 pesos and city bus tours for 180 pesos, I found a flyer advertising two city walking tours that were completely free. Buenos Aires Free Tour offers a daily city tour at 11:00 a.m. led by a local guide that teaches you about the history and culture of Buenos Aires. You also get to visit the oldest coffee shop in the city, Cafe Tortoni, which hasn’t changed a bit since it opened in 1858. At 5:00 p.m., the company also offers a free “Aristocratic Tour,” which allows you see sites like the famous Recoleta Cemetery, Plaza San Martin and the beautiful Basílica Nuestra Señora del Pilar.

So how can a free tour be better than the more expensive ones? These guides are passionate about what they do. Moreover, because they work on tips, they actually need to work for their money so you won’t get a guide that is bored with their job or uninterested in your questions. Virginia, the guide on my tour, was excellent. She knew everything about the city, was overly friendly and had the group laughing the entire time.Check out Buenos Aires’ museums and cultural centers

The city is home to many worthwhile museums and cultural centers that are not only interesting, but can also help give you insight into the area and culture. I really liked the National Historical Museum of the Cabildo and May Revolution. On Fridays, it is free to enter. The Cabildo was the main seat of the May Revolution of 1810, is one of the city’s oldest buildings and contains many historical documents and artifacts. I also recommend visiting one of the many cultural centers in Buenos Aires, especially the one in Recoleta (shown right), adjacent to the cemetery. Here you can explore history and art in a more avant-garde way. Guided tours in English are offered on Tuesdays and Thursdays at 11:00 a.m. Other notable museums include:

  • “Enrique Larreta” Spanish Art Museum (Belgrano)- Free on Thursdays
  • Museum of the City (Montserrat)- Free on Mondays and Wednesdays
  • Museum of the Cinema (San Telmo)- Free on Wednesdays
  • National Fine Arts Museum (La Recoleta)- Always free
  • Museum of Latin-American Art of Buenos Aires (MALBA)- Free on Wednesdays from 12:00 to 9:00 p.m.

Learn about the city’s political history

The people of Buenos Aires, also known as porteños, are very passionate about politics. Along with the many museums in the city, there are also must-visit buildings if you want to really understand Buenos Aires’ past. Start at the National Congress Building, which offers free-guided tours in English on Monday, Tuesday, Thursday and Friday at 4:00 p.m. The building was opened in 1906, and contains many furnishings and pieces of decor from Europe. Then head over to the Casa Rosada, or Pink House, which is where President Cristina Fernandez de Kirchner works. There is a museum inside, and free tours are offered on weekends.

Channel your inner activist and take in a protest

Going along with the above statement of politically passionate locals, you can expect about three or four protests per day. Most take place on Avenida de Mayo, which connects the National Congress and Casa Rosada, the two political buildings of the city. Head to Plaza de Mayo, which is located right in front of Casa Rosada. Here you will be almost guaranteed to see some political uproar. Notice the makeshift fence separating Casa Rosada from the plaza (pictured right). While it is technically a temporary fence that is supposed to be taken down after protests are over, Buenos Aires has so many they got tired of removing the barrier and just left it there. The locals of Buenos Aires protested so ferociously that in 2001, they actually caused then-President Fernando de la Rúa to resign from office and exit the building via a helicopter from the roof.

On Thursdays at 3:00 p.m. in Plaza de Mayo, you can see the “Madres de Plaza de Mayo,” or Mother’s of Plaza de Mayo, circling the square’s May Pyramid monument. In the 1970’s, Argentina went through a period of military dictatorship that left the people without a democracy. During this time, over 30,000 people went missing, were sent to torture camps and killed. These women have been asking for answers to where their children are since this time. You can see their symbol painted onto the cement in the plaza, an image of a cotton diaper, which the women would wear around their heads symbolically. While the country now gives its people a say, seeing these women will make you appreciate your rights.

Discover the city’s graffiti art

Buenos Aires has an extremely vibrant graffiti art scene. While there are walking tours for this, such as the graffitimundo graffiti and street art tours, it can be fun to just go on your own and explore as well. Basically any neighborhood you go to will have tons of it. I stayed in the San Telmo neighborhood and spent hours exploring the streets and finding artistic works, many of which have political meanings. Palermo is another great area to explore the best graffiti art Buenos Aires has to offer. I would recommend doing some background research online before hitting the streets. Click here to learn more about popular artists and their stories.

Experience tango

Argentina is the place where tango originated, so you’ll definitely want to experience it for yourself. While you can catch impromptu tango acts while strolling the city, there are places you can go to guarantee a free show or lesson. You can check the schedule at Museo Casa Carlos Gardel, which regularly features free tango shows and lessons. Additionally, if you book a show at Complejo Tango, they offer a free tango lesson at 7:30 p.m. You can also head over to The Window of DGEArt, where free classes are being hosted on Saturdays from 5:00 p.m. to 7:00 p.m. through May 31, 2012. And on Sundays, many of the city’s cultural centers offer free tango shows.

Open-air venues also usually offer the opportunity to experience free tango. On Sundays, the Feira de San Telmo and the Recoleta Fair have live tango performances in the streets. Furthermore, you can see it at the Calle Museo Caminito, an open-air arts museum in La Boca each day.

One trick is instead of paying for a dinner and show with unlimited drinks, head over to a milonga, or a place where tango is danced. For example, the popular La Glorieta offers free entrance to their open-air milonga on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays from 7:00 to 10:00 p.m. Even when milongas are not free, they are usually very inexpensive and you can see some of the city’s most talented dancers.

Browse the markets

Before you think to yourself “wow, another handicraft market,” stop. The markets in Buenos Aires are unlike any I’ve ever experienced in all my travels. The best is the Feria de San Telmo, which happens every Sunday from 10:00 am until 7:00 p.m. You have your usual handmade goods, as well as many rare finds like ancient antiques, statues made of chalk, visors with built-in fans, leather masks, authentic Japanese swords from the 1600’s and much more. The fair is massive. Not only that, but street performers litter the area. You’ll get to see tango dancers, ventriloquists, mimes, opera sings, circus performers, live bands and more. Make sure to also stop at the corner of Mexico and Defense streets for some live music and delicious choripan – a thick, juicy sausage wrapped in a bread bun and topped with whatever you’d like.

There are other worthwhile markets to explore as well. The area right near the cemetery in Recoleta has a weekend market that is enormous with unique handicrafts and delicious local foods. Moreover, the Mercado de San Telmo has been running since 1897 and is open daily. Here you can find fresh meats and fish, art and antiques. Likewise, the Parque Lezama in San Telmo features a beautiful pond, sculptures and fountains as well as a handicraft fair and live shows on Saturdays and Sundays.

Take in the beauty of the many parks and squares

In Buenos Aires, picturesque parks and lively squares litter the city. You can spend days just exploring these beautiful areas. My favorite place to sunbathe and relax was San Martín Square. With beautiful Jacaranda trees, ornate statues and rolling slopes, it is a very beautiful and peaceful place. There is also the Nature Reserve in Costanera Sur, which is perfect for bird watching, hiking, exploring hidden beaches or riding a bike. Palermo Woods is also beautiful, as it is the main green area of the city. Featured are three man-made lakes, a rose garden and outdoor sculptures.

Cemeteries

While this may sound morbid, the cemeteries in Buenos Aires are unlike any I’ve ever seen in the world. The most famous cemetery to see on your visit is Recoleta Cemetery. Here you will find some of the most ornate tombs you will ever see. Some include stained glass windows, ornate statues and furniture inside these house-like mausoleums. There are many famous locals buried here like Facundo Quiroga, Juan Manuel de Rosas, Domingo Faustino Sarmiento and the world-renowned Eva “Evita” Perón.

The less famous, but just as beautiful and even bigger, La Chacarita Cemetery is also worth a visit. It is the largest cemetery in Argentina and a car is needed to drive through the whole thing. It was built due to a need for more cemetery space after a yellow fever outbreak in the late 1800’s.

Street performers and live music

If you love impromptu entertainment, Buenos Aires is the perfect place for you. Simply riding a subway or train will almost guarantee you a free show of some kind. Also, visiting any of the many fairs listed above will give you access to all kinds of street performances. Moreover, You can checkout Museo Casa Carlos Gardel, which regularly puts on free live performances on Wednesdays. If you enjoy chamber music, The Palace Noel puts on free live concerts on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays at 7:00 p.m. Additionally, each day from 10:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. in La Boca is the Street Museum Caminito. It’s an outdoor art exhibition with performance art, singers, dancers and all kinds of unique acts. At night, walking around Palermo Soho will bring you face to face with various street performers on every corner.

If you’d like an indoor club type of feel, The Roxy in Palermo features free live music shows on Friday nights if you add your name to the list on the website. There’s also Breoghan Brew Pub in San Telmo on Sundays where patrons can watch a very talented jazz quartet. Furthermore, Temple Bar in Recoleta regularly features live blues and jazz bands free of charge.

While not live music, Teatro San Martin hosts a weekly music program at noon on Tuesdays and Fridays of rarely heard recordings that is refreshing, enlightening and also gives you a good excuse to checkout the inside of this famous venue.

Discover the religion of the city

Most, if not all of the churches in Buenos Aires are free to enter. First visit the Metropolitan Cathedral, thought by locals to be the city’s most important church. Take note of the black candlelight symbol on the outside of the building. This represents the remains of Argentina’s liberator, José de San Martín, as the church houses his mausoleum. There is also Basílica Nuestra Señora del Pilar in Recoleta (shown right). While not huge, the inside has ornate details and impressive furnishings worth a look. Iglesia Ortodoxa Rusa, located in San Telmo, is another great church to visit. Built in the seventeenth century, it is considered by many locals as one of the most attractive buildings in the city. If you attend service, you can hear the choir sing Orthodox liturgical music.

Get competitive at a horse race

Located on Avenida del Libertador in Palermo, you will find the historical Palermo Argentinean Racetrack. Argentinians love thoroughbred horses so visiting the site is also a cultural experience. Opened in 1876, the racetrack has held competitions for the most elite thoroughbred horses. The venue is grand in design and massive in size, accommodating up to 100,000 guests. While placing bets will obviously cost you, it is free to enter and enjoy the races.

Paraty, Brazil: A Colonial Beach Paradise

by Jessica Festa on

When visiting Brazil, many people head straight to the big cities of Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo. However, there is a beach paradise located in between the two metropolises called Paraty that is a worthwhile destination no matter what your travel style is. During my trip to the area, I couldn’t get enough of the historical activities, colorful colonial buildings, beautiful beaches, adventure sports, excellent shopping and old-world charm that hasn’t changed in centuries.

Paraty is a small town and it’s almost impossible to get lost. Just because it’s not large in size, however, doesn’t mean there isn’t a lot to do. Here are some of my favorite experiences I had while exploring the village.

History

The main reason most people visit Paraty is to learn about the colonial history of the city. Paraty was built around 1600; however, it wasn’t until the 1800s that the city really made its mark on the map, as this is when gold was found in the area. During this time, the area prospered, two-story homes began to be built and Paraty became the second most important port in Brazil, as it was shipping gold to Portugal. Moreover, African slaves created cobblestone roads for transporting the gold. These have been perfectly preserved, as you can see by how uneven and not uniform they are.

It’s a bit difficult to find an affordable, English-spoken tour in the area. However, Paraty Tours on Av. Roberto Silveira was excellent for this. For about $11, I was able to get a guided walking tour of all the historical sites with a knowledgeable guide. You’ll get to learn about Antiga Cadeia, an old jail from the early eighteen century, the Morro do Forte, an ancient defense fort from 1703, and the historical churches of Igreja de Santa Rita, Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Rosário, Capela de Nossa Senhora das Dores and Matriz de Nossa Senhora dos Remédios.Shopping and dining

Take a walk along the Rio Perequê-Açú. It is a very peaceful river with colorful boats, immaculate houses and people happily fishing. It is especially beautiful at night, when the sun is setting and the streetlights illuminate the water. Along the river, on its more commercial side, is a row of handicraft markets selling handmade jewelry, scarves and souvenirs.

Continue on to the carless Rua do Comércio and you will be placed in the most romantic shopping setting you’ve ever experienced. In Paraty, shops stay open until 9:00 or 10:00 p.m., so I would recommend also exploring this area after sunset. It’s really charming with illuminated cobblestone roads, boutique stores, art galleries, specialty shops, fine dining restaurants and white carts selling delicious cakes and pastries. You’ll also be able to experience an array of local and international music, as one block may be filling the air with upbeat Brazilian music and another could be blasting Akon or jazz and blues. It’s also very lively at night, as the streets are filled with locals and tourists shopping and going out for dinner and drinks. Note: Do not wear heels! While beautiful and historical, the cobblestones are very uneven and difficult to walk on. Even locals do not wear heels on this street.

If you’re hungry but don’t want to spend a lot of money, turn down Rua da Lapa and walk one block until it turns into Av. Roberto Silveira. You’ll know when you’ve hit it as there will be cars again and the charming ambiance will be replaced with a more hurried feel. Instead of going into a typical restaurant, enter one of the many Acai cafes. Brazil is well known for its delicious Acai (shown right), and these eateries not only sell juices and desserts, but usually dinner as well. My favorite was Boutique do Acai, where I was able to get a cheeseburger and bowl of acai gelato with banana slices and honey for about $4 total. They also have outdoor tables, ideal for people watching and enjoying the fresh air and surrounding palm trees.

Hiking and adventure sports

Paraty features many mountains and tropical Atlantic rainforest, so there are ample options for the hiking enthusiast. I took the bus to Laranjeras, where I was able to take a two-hour rainforest hike, which ended on a white sandy beach. There’s also a little fishing village that’s fun to explore. Getting there can be a little confusing, but not impossible. Catch the LINHA 1040 bus from the bus station, which costs 3 Reais (about $1.60) each way. The stop is towards the end of the route. However, the driver will complete the entire route without telling you where the end is, so if you don’t know where to get off, you could end up back in Paraty. The stop is at the top of the hill, once you enter the uphill community off the main road. Your best bet is to ask the driver to announce your stop. If you don’t speak Portuguese, ask someone at your hotel to write the request down on a piece of paper to show the bus driver.

Another excellent hike that will allow you to explore lush rainforest, challenging mountains, unique rock formations and paradisiacal beaches is in Trindade (pictured right). There are four beaches and Trindade is first on the hike. I usually subscribe to the thought that while certain beaches are more beautiful than others, a beach is a beach. Trindade changed my mind immediately, as unworldly rock formations scatter on one end of the beach and tropical flora sets a jungle-like background. You can also explore various hidden rock and forest alcoves, all small but very unique. To hike all four beaches while also going through patches of rainforest and stopping at Caixa d’Aço — a natural swimming pool excellent for snorkeling — you can access the trailhead at the opposite end of the beach from where the bus drops you off. It is in the area where the bars and restaurants are.

For more intense hiking, you can cross the road behind the beach and head up an opening in the mountain. I accessed a trail by first following the arrow for “Vila de Trindade.” When you’re about two-minutes uphill, there’s another sign advertising “Pousada Encontro das Àguas,” which is where the hike begins. To get to Trindade, simply take the Trindade bus from the bus station. You will see signs for the area and the beaches.

Those looking for adventure can enjoy more than just hiking. Paraty is also known for its exceptional scuba diving. In fact, multiple people in the hostel I stayed at were in Paraty specifically to become certified divers. The waters in the area are calm and clear, making for high visibility underwater. Furthermore, tropical fish and marine life make the experience really worthwhile.

Biking, kayaking, surfing, horseback riding and outdoor adventure ropes and climbing courses are also available in Paraty. Click here for more information on these activities.

Drinks

The national drink of Brazil is the caipirinha, which is so strong and delicious thanks to the special ingredient, cachaça. If you haven’t had a caipirinha in Brazil, you haven’t really had a caipirinha, as it needs this locally produced alcohol to make it truly authentic. In Paraty, you’ll not only get to sample this real-deal cocktail, but also learn how cachaça is made and sample some at one of the seven distilleries in the area. Why should you do this in Paraty? The city was known during colonial times as the most important brandy producing area in Brazil. In fact, until the mid-twentieth century, the word “Paraty” was synonymous with the word “brandy.”

If you’re in the mood to dance, Paraty 33 is an energetic club located in the historic center of the town. While fun, just know it’s also the only dance club in Paraty so it gets crowded. If you want to dance but need more space, head over to any outdoor bar in the area. I loved the popular Geko Hostel Bar, and Brazilians have no problem creating their own dance floors in the streets.

Travel Expert Brings Local Flavor To Guidebooks, Video

by Chris Owen on

Known worldwide as travel editor for CBS News, Peter Greenberg has traveled the planet bringing far away places into living rooms for decades. Now, Greenberg shares his expertise on destinations around the globe in his new “Like a Local” series of guidebooks, videos and travel tips that go on sale April 16.

Teaming with Michelin, Greenberg is releasing the series of “Like a Local” travel guides to Buenos Aires, Cuba, the Caribbean, New Orleans, and Miami that have must-see sights and activities, but also reveal insider tips on how to navigate the process of travel to get the best experience.

“Learn tips like how to avoid the touristy tango clubs in Buenos Aires and dance with the locals in a milonga,” says a release touting Greenberg’s endeavour. Telling “where to find street food stalls serving locally sourced seafood in the Bahamas; how to spend a day with Cuban tobacco farmers in Pinar del Rio” and more, the series looks to be a winner.

Recently, I had the opportunity to talk to Greenberg in Amsterdam and found him as colorful and descriptive about travel as one might expect. Speaking of his recent PBS special, “Mexico:The Royal Tour,” Greenberg was as passionate about experiencing the country with Mexico’s President, Felipe Calderón as his guide, undertaking whale watching in Baja California, rappelling down the Cave of Swallows in San Luis Potosi and zip-lining through the jungles of Puerto Vallarta.

Bringing that level of up-close and personal experience to us via guidebooks, videos and tips, the project promises to be far more than the sum of it’s parts.


[Image via Flickr user LollyKnit]

Video Of The Day: Night Skies Over Norway

by Elizabeth Seward on

I stumbled across this beautiful time-lapse video on Vimeo entitled, “Night Skies Over Norway.” The work features the night skies and general nighttime happenings over Southern Norway. I found this video to be immediately captivating. The moving images of the dark sky and the subtle hints of life that make appearances throughout the night in this video are completed by simple and tasteful music by the filmmaker, Svenn Dvergastein. These shots were taken during January 2012. If you visit, keep this fun fact in mind: you’re allowed to camp anywhere you want in Norway, public or private property, so long as you’re not in view of a home. Challenge yourself to a camping/backpacking trip in Norway and see this gorgeous night sky for yourself.