No Wrong Turns: San Francisco’s Japantown

Winding down the coast led us to San Francisco, which is one of my favorite cities in the world. It has a great vibe and extremely friendly people. The freeway was crazy but we managed to cross the Golden Gate Bridge into the city. The first night we decided to stay in a nice hotel, as it was my birthday (so we thought, but it was actually the following day, I guess we really lost track of time). I chose Hotel Kabuki, a Japanese-style hotel, for my so-called birthday treat. Tom and I lived in Japan for a year and I often miss the oddities that I discovered while living there.

The hotel is located in Japantown. Japantown in San Francisco is one of the oldest settlements of its kind in the US. It was apparently much larger at one point but after the Japanese attacked Pearl Harbor, Japanese-Americans were put into camps by the US government leaving the neighborhood vacant and open to others looking for a place to settle. Though many Japanese returned to the area it was never to be the same. The area has recovered well and offers a vibrant little community teaming with sushi restaurants, shops, izakayas, and all those cute characters like Hello Kitty.

Hotel Kabuki was nice though not very Japanese. The décor was an eclectic mish-mash of Asian cultures with a few Japanese traditions thrown in the mix. But the king-size bed and fancy sheets won us over in the end.

Oddly enough we ended up eating Chinese food that night, even though sushi was the plan. It was one of those nights where Tom and I performed the “I dunno where do you want to eat?” game for about half an hour before the hunger pangs were no longer bearable. Then San Wong’s popped up before our eyes and Chinese food suddenly sounded better than anything we had ever heard of. Trying to hide the growls escaping from our stomachs, we ordered seven or so dishes. I expected them to be the comparable to those at home but this assumption was way off. We could have fed my entire family, including my 17 year-old brother who eats anything that moves, with our meal. It was so embarrassing because we barely put a dent in our dinner. We both hate to waste food and did not want to insult the restaurant staff. To make matters worse I ordered noodles with plum sauce, which turned out to be noodles with blackish sauce, and a very…shall we say, distinct taste. I tried a little and Tom did too but it was not at all what we expected. So we did what anyone else in our position would do, we exploited Tom’s accent. He politely explained he was from New Zealand and did not know that dishes were so huge in America and apologized. The servers giggled and told us not to worry. Whew! If you are strapped for cash in San Francisco this is the place to eat. The best deal on the menu according to Tom….a gigantic bowl of steamed rice for a dollar.

“No Wrong Turns” chronicles Kelsey and her husband’s road trip — in real time — from Canada to the southern tip of South America in their trusty red VW Golf named Marlin.

No Wrong Turns: Driving through trees

The California Redwood trees are stunning. The last time I was there I was around 8-years old and did not nearly appreciate their massive size or the fact that these trees have stood for hundreds if not thousands of years. We took the Avenue of Giants detour even though we knew we’d have to drive a bit longer, but Tom was keen and I wasn’t the one driving so off we went.

Close to the turn-off to the Avenue we passed the Trees of Mystery and a very large statue of Paul Bunyan and Babe, the Blue Ox, which I also remember seeing as a kid. Only I remember Babe having a face; I guess he is having a little work done at the moment. Sorry but this photo was too good not to post or maybe I am the only one who finds this kind of funny.

Once we turned onto the Avenue, ancient trees enveloped us while small towns popped up here and there, but for the most part it was just us and the Giants. Tom, a lover of woodwork, got it into his mind that we absolutely NEEDED a salad bowl made from Redwood. We stopped in atthe only store we found that was open. Inside was the oddest collection of wood products that I have ever seen including about 50 clocks lining the top of the walls, all ticking at different times. It was a bit twilight zone-ish. The shop owner came upstairs and seemed instantly perturbed that we were in her store. Tom asked if there were any more bowls to look at and she said that there weren’t, that is was low season, that she was working now to make more for high season and that we were taking up her time (OK so she did not say this but definitely implied it). Needless to say after our charming encounter we decided not to buy a bowl from her. (Hey lady, if you want us to buy a bowl, be nice, or we might have to buy one here.)

The bowl mission was not quite over. We asked around to see if there were more shops to check out. Unfortunately most shops were closed, as it was late in the day. So no bowl, but on the plus side we drove Marlin through a tree in Klamath. I remember this as a kid and thinking it was pretty cool. Tom was not as impressed as my 8 year-old self but it seemed to cheer him up after missing out on a real redwood bowl.

Should you want to drive through a tree, you can check them out here.

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“No Wrong Turns” chronicles Kelsey and her husband’s road trip — in real time — from Canada to the southern tip of South America in their trusty red VW Golf named Marlin.

No Wrong Turns: RV Adventures

The USA is all about RVs. And not small camper vans, I’m talking about massive, gleaming houses on wheels. I know Canadians RV as well, but it seems to me that the US has a definite love affair with recreational vehicles. I’ve never seen this many in my life!

The other night, after about 7 hours of driving the California coast, we pulled into the Westport Beach RV and Campground. The guy was friendly enough even though he grumbled at us that he was closed. I pondered letting him know that he had his ‘open’ sign on but, decided that being smart might not win him over. Instead I made friends with his cat, aptly named “Miss Kitty,” and he let us camp on the beach. On the short drive down to the beach we passed about 25 RVs (according to the locals this is the low season) and set up our tiny two-person tent.

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I woke up around 9am the next morning and was interested to see that most of the RV owners were already up preparing their mammoth vehicles for the road. After a rather chilly evening in the tent and a sore back, I was beginning to understand why people love their motorhomes.

So, what if you wanted more of an RV adventure rather than the typical North American road trip?

I did a bit of research before we left on our trip, and located a company called Adventuretours that specializes in RV tours to Latin America. They take no more than 15 vehicles into Central and South America from the US. Pretty cool if you like to travel with all the comforts of home. I know that many people like to travel with others to enhance their time away and meet new people. The neatest thing about this company is that they encourage travelers to break off from the group and explore on their own instead of as tour group where everyone wears the same color shirt, takes the same picture and remains in a group at all times. I contacted them a few months ago when I was trying to figure out how to get around Colombia thinking they might have some inside information. They were more than helpful and even offered to meet up with us on the way.

Hmm…maybe I should have convinced Tom to buy an RV…

“No Wrong Turns” chronicles Kelsey and her husband’s road trip — in real time — from Canada to the southern tip of South America in their trusty red VW Golf named Marlin.

No Wrong Turns: Portland’s Powell’s, Ponies and Police

After a harrowing drive from Calgary to Vancouver due to ice, snow, and psychotic truck drivers, Tom and I managed to make it to Vancouver to visit with family and get one more vaccine for our trip.

Next up was Portland, Oregon. But we had to cross the US border and play nice with the officers. The conversation that took place in the car before went like this:

Me: “Ok, so I know they ask all sorts of personal questions but it is their country.”
Tom: “I know, I know, but I hate telling them stuff.”
Me: “I know, but you cannot refuse to answer questions or be difficult, they can send us home.”
Tom: “I KNOW!”
Me: “Kill ’em with kindness.”

Fortunately all went well at the border. They did make us pull over and go inside, but I think that was because Tom carries a New Zealand passport, not a Canadian. He had to fill out some random card that asks if you were a Nazi (even if you were, would you answer yes?), get fingerprinted, and have a photo taken that apparently will remain on file forever. Tom was pretty pissed about having things on file forever but that seems to be how the US rolls these days. Really, who can blame them? On the plus side the officer who helped us was really nice. I am not sure if that is any consolation for Tom.

We arrived in Portland late at night after managing not to be killed by the speedy highway drivers. Portland has a great vibe and our host was extremely pleased to have us stay there. In our wanderings we found out a few really neat things about Portland:

They have the largest independent bookstore in the world called Powell’s. It takes up a whole city block and carries both used and new books. We spent an entire afternoon perusing the aisles and barely made it past two sections.

Another interesting tidbit about Portland is its plastic ponies. You know, like the kid’s toy. They are found in older parts of Portland tied to metal rings that are embedded in the sidewalks. Back in the day these rings were used to tie one’s horse to in the city. It all started as an art project, called The Horse Project. In 2005, Scott Wayne Indiana decided that horses should be tied to these rings again. So he started tying these miniature horses to the rings, and eventually gained notoriety. The plastic ponies of Portland have stuck. Tom and I only managed to see one, though we spent lots of time looking. The website has a map of locations for those interested.

One more interesting fact about Portland: I saw police officers on Segways. Two burly guys in fluorescent-yellow jackets rolled right by us. Unfortunately I was not fast enough with my camera, because I was too busy trying not to stare and laugh. You’ll just have to take my word for it.

Next up: the California Coast.

No Wrong Turns” chronicles Kelsey and her husband’s road trip — in real time — from Canada to the southern tip of South America in their trusty red VW Golf named Marlin.

No Wrong Turns: The Longest Road Trip Ever

My husband and I have decided that we are going to drive from Calgary, Canada, my hometown, with hopes of getting to Tierra del Fuego, the tip of South America. Our trusty steed, a red 1991 VW Golf named Marlin, will be ferrying us on our Latin American journey.

About a year and a half ago my husband, Tom, and I started talking about taking off on a trip to Central and South America. We both want to speak Spanish fluently and I have always been fascinated by Latin culture. So we started brainstorming, discussing where we’d like to go, what we’d like to see and how long we would go for. Somehow during these early conversations it was suggested that we drive. I am pretty sure Tom is the one who brought up driving but before long the trip morphed from a backpacking adventure to one seriously long road trip. I guess we unconsciously made the decision to drive as we never ever questioned whether it was a good plan or not, we just went with it. The past year has been spent preparing for this journey. We have quit our jobs, packed up our apartment, stored all our possessions, researched as best we could and said our farewells.

We don’t have concrete travel plans but hope to see as much as we can. We both have certain places that are ‘for sures’ but as for the rest well…we are going to leave it open so that we can stay longer in places we like and leave those we don’t like as much whenever we choose. I could list all the countries in Latin America but viewing a map is probably the easiest. Initially we are planning to set up a little apartment in Mexico as we have a design job for a museum in Calgary. So, in the first few months we will work, learn Spanish (we hope), experience living in Mexico and then move on with our adventure.

One place we will not be driving through is Colombia. Friends have told us it is beautiful but the reality is it is not safe for foreigners and, from my research, the last time anyone crossed from Panama to Colombia by land was 1998 in a souped up Land Rover. Marlin is tough but I am not sure if he is that tough!

So in No Wrong Turns, I will be sharing our adventures on this long trip. I’ll be uncovering unique stories about Latin America: the people we meet, best ‘secret’ places, interesting tidbits about the cultures we come across, as well as the practical elements of such a trip. So off we go into the sunset, sunrise, bad roads, toll highways, potholes and colorful cultures.