5 classic Baja outposts

by Kyle Ellison on

Given the recent violence in Mexico, the number of Americans traveling to Baja has taken a precipitous fall. Prior to the reign of the narcotraficantes who are wreaking havoc on so many of the country’s border zones, the Baja peninsula was the ultimate playground for rogue surfers, story-swapping fisherman, and grease covered, offroading desert dogs.

Even with the violence, many Americans are still choosing to venture down the peninsula, despite a handful of highly publicized attacks against Baja surfers. I know, because I am one of them. Sure, Mexico is in the news a lot, but this is Baja. It’s different. Life is good down here. Then the authorities went and discovered the largest marijuana plantation on record smack in the middle of the Baja desert in a place I have driven by 20 times in the last five years.

Whoops.

While times may be changing and the future of Baja travel is uncertain, the fact remains that Baja remains one of the most pristine desert hideouts this side of the Sahara, and the places listed below are just as beautiful as before the border violence began.

Hence a list of 5 classic Baja outposts, their desolate shores waiting for someone to pull up a truck, crack open a Pacifico, and worry about nothing at all.
1. Bahia de San Luis Gonzaga

For decades, difficult desert access has kept this fishing village on the Sea of Cortez removed and isolated from the over development that plagues its northern neighbor, San Felipe. All of that is set to change however with the construction of the paved highway that has slowly been creeping its way south towards Bahia Gonzaga for years.

Prior to the paved highway, the only roads into the turquoise bay in the desert were the shock destroying washboard road that runs along the coast past Puertecitos, and the unpaved mountain pass that’s home to Coco’s Corner, an eccentric compound in the middle of nowhere that’s largely constructed out of aluminum cans and spare parts by a welcoming double amputee named Coco. It can get lonely in these parts.


2. Bahia de Los Angeles

Located 400 miles south of the border on the placid Sea of Cortez, Bahia de Los Angeles is better known for what’s found in the water than what’s found on land. A classic outpost for dorado fisherman, the waters of Bahia de Los Angeles are also part of the Bahia de Los Angeles Biosphere Reserve, which at over 950,000 acres is home to the much sought after and elusive whale shark, nature’s largest fish.

Offshore, 360 sq. mile Isla de La Guarda provides protection from the rougher waters of the Sea of Cortez, making the entire bay a haven for sun seeking sea kayakers who have little on the itinerary outside of mirror calm waters and the fish tacos back on shore.


3. San Juanico

Known to surfers as “Scorpion Bay“, the fishing village of San Juanico has been drawing wave-seekers ever since Surfline founder Sean Collins allegedly first surfed the spot in 1969.
Regarded as one of the longest waves in the world, conversations at the campground cantina frequently oscillate between current road conditions and who’s had the longest ride of the summer.

Given the remote nature of San Juanico, half of the adventure is found in the journey. While approachable from the south and east, most visitors from north of the border opt to traverse a 112 mile dirt road that runs through vast salt flats and car-swallowing moondust on what many consider to be one of the worst roads in Baja. But oh the rewards once you get there…


4. Playa Santispac

One of the pearls of Bahia Concepcion, Playa Santispac is the type of place where you sleep under the stars, watch the sunrise over the water, and have a breakfast of tamales from the guy selling them out of the back of his truck. A longtime haven for sailboats cruising north from La Paz, the aqua waters of Bahia Concepcion provide a sandy anchorage for boaters, while the dozens of beaches within the bay provide ample camping and swimming opportunities.


5. El Socorro

A little visited seaside community on the northern Pacific coast, El Socorro is set at the base of some of the largest sand dunes found anywhere on the peninsula. Camped out at the base of the dunes directly along the shoreline, on many mornings the receding tide will expose the offshore reef and lure what seems to be the entire village to harvest bucketfuls of clams.

El Socorro is also a popular spot for surfers in the winter months when strong Pacific storms send waves towards the reefs set just off of the sand dunes. It’s a long way from here for any real supplies, so pack well, plan ahead, be safe, and lose yourself in the Baja we will all forever love.

Austin’s wandering bison found, returned home

by Kraig Becker on

Austin, Texas is no longer where the buffalo roam. The escaped bison that we first told you about last week, was found on Friday and returned safely to the ranch where she had escaped more than a week earlier.

On August 3rd, the bison was purchased by a local rancher, who returned home to introduce her into his existing herd. While unloading her on his property however, something spooked the creature, and she escaped into the surrounding woods.

Several days later, the bison turned up at the 280-acre Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center, where she proceeded to evade all attempts to catch her, while simultaneously capturing the imagination of the Austin community. She earned the name “Liberty” from the local media, and while we all knew the inevitable outcome, there was still hope that she might continue to wander free.

On Friday Liberty was sighted for the first time in several days and animal control officers moved in quickly to tranquilize her. After the drugs took effect, she was then loaded onto a trailer and returned to her owner, who was able to integrate her into his herd at last. She’ll now receive a steady supply of food and water, which was an ongoing concern due to the oppressive Texas summer heat and one of the worst droughts in recent memory.

[Photo credit: MyFox Austin]

Tyler Florence’s Wayfare Tavern: An Ode to San Francisco’s Barbary Coast?

by David Farley on
A decade and a half on the Food Network and several cookbooks with his name onthe cover, chef Tyler Florence’s first restaurant, the Wayfare Tavern, has been a hit since it opened in 2010. Reviewers (and even the press material) boast that the handsome teak interior and the menu are an homage to the Barbary Coast. I deviated a couple blocks from the Barbary Coast trail that I’ve been following all month to go find out.

Chef Florence didn’t respond to my requests for an interview, so I couldn’t ask him what makes his restaurant in the former Rubicon space a particular nod to the legendary lost neighborhood and why he did it. The Wayfare Tavern is part of a growing Barbary Coast trend I’ve noticed in the last couple years (more in this in later posts). The dark wood and taxidermy do give it a particularly 19th-century Victorian feel. The food is hearty and rustic and hugely portioned and, from my knowledge, is impossible to know exactly what hungry minors and the newly rich were scarfing down in the mid and late 19th century. The burger, though, was one of the best I’ve had in San Francisco and my dining companion’s pork ribs were fall-off-the-bone tender.

This would have been the place where the newly rich would have come to throw around a few gold nuggets. Today, though, the crowd is mostly bankers dressed in blue polo shirts and khakis. Which, if you think about it, is about as close as you can come to being a Barbary Coast-era nouveau riche.

It’s not likely, though, they’ll let you pay for your dinner in gold nuggets.

Civil War reenactor injured in groin by his horse

by Sean McLachlan on

Two Civil War reenactors were injured yesterday preparing for a reenactment of the Battle of Wilson’s Creek.

One man playing a Confederate cavalryman got pinned under his horse, while a Union cavalryman got injured when his horse stepped on his groin. Exactly how he got into a position where his horse could do that is unclear. Both were given medical attention but neither was thought to be seriously hurt.

The Battle of Wilson’s Creek was the first major Civil War battle west of the Mississippi. A Confederate army was menacing Springfield and a smaller Union force attacked the rebel camp on the morning of August 10. The Union army was defeated and its general, Nathaniel Lyon, was killed. Both sides suffered heavy losses.

Frank James, brother of Jesse James, fought on the Confederate side in this battle. He and his brother later became rebel guerrillas before ending up as famous outlaws.

Missouri had already been the scene of several small battles and skirmishes, including the Battle of Boonville, the first truly important battle of the Civil War.

A reenactment of the Battle of Wilson’s Creek will take place today through Sunday near Wilson’s Creek National Battlefield.

[Image courtesy Wikimedia Commons]

Portsmouth Square: San Francisco’s Great Hidden Public Space

by David Farley on
When I lived in San Francisco, I walked down Kearny Street past Portsmouth Square hundreds of times, trudging between Market Street and North Beach. I’m chagrined to admit I hardly noticed the square. Elevated in 1960 to make room for a subterranean parking garage, the square has an enclosed feeling to it. Almost uninviting. Which is bad (because you can walk right by without noticing it) and good in that it creates an intimate atmosphere, one of San Francisco’s great public living rooms. Portsmouth Square is really San Francisco’s great hidden public space.

Or so I learned on a recent visit. Since one cannot seek out the Barbary Coast without going to this historic public space, I finally climbed the dozen or so stone steps from Kearny Street and plopped myself onto the square. And what a surprise. The place was crammed with Chinese locals–it borders on Chinatown and the Financial District–many of whom were in tightly clenched circles, energy bursting from each one. Some were squatting in that intriguing Chinese manner, playing a board game called Go or cards. A couple non-Chinese were anchored on the periphery of the square in full lotus position, deep in meditation. Locals strolled by flashing curious looks at them.

Until the 1906 earthquake, this was the center of San Francisco. Instead of being lined by Chinese and Vietnamese restaurants, produce stands, and a Buddhist supply store (I’ll take a large dose of enlightenment and a side of wisdom, please), the square’s periphery was occupied by brothels and saloons. Where the tall, homely Hilton now stands was the first city hall. Minors, liquored-up on bad booze, would loiter in the square, where today Chinese residents are playing cards for money, thus carrying on the tradition of vice (depending, of course, on your definition of it) by making it the city’s only ad hoc casino.

Starting in the 1850s, Chinese immigrants came in waves after waves to get in on the Gold Rush. At first they were welcomed, but when more and more began turning up at the same time the unemployment rate was going up, laws were put into place to restrict and tax them. They persevered and today Chinatown and its particular Chinese-style architecture was a symbol that they intended to stick around a while. And thank goodness for that. After I left the square, I popped into a bakery and bought a barbequed pork-stuffed bun (for just one dollar) that tasted, at least for that moment, like the best thing I’ve ever eaten in my life.