North Korea to Americans: come on over!

The good news has been confirmed: North Korea is opening its doors to Americans all year long. The Korea International Travel Company revealed the new policy to Asia Pacific Travel Ltd, which is a departure from the standard that had existed since 2005. For the past five years, Americans have only been able to travel to North Korea during the Arirang festival in August and September. Still being considered, however, is whether the five-day limit on travel will be lifted, as well as whether Americans will be able to enter the country by train.

Given the new flexibility, Asia Pacific Travel is planning some new and expanded itineraries (available here). Says Walter L. Keats, CTC, CMP, the company’s president, “Asia Pacific Travel tours for 2010 will offer a different and more extensive mix of long and short-stay study tours, from April through October.” Asia Pacific Travel is the only American tour operator that is recognized officially by the North Korean government with a “Letter of Commission.”

Five rules for traveling to North Korea

I’m told that travel to North Korea is quite safe, as long as you follow the rules (and don’t do anything stupid). You have to realize that, politics aside, you’re entering a country that just does things differently. Of course, the consequences that come with straying can be severe. The trip will be scripted, but you know that going in. Follow the bouncing ball, and you’ll be just fine.

This year, we’ll get a sense of how widely North Korea is willing to open its doors to the line of westerners waiting to enter. In 2009, the window for Arirang-related trips was extended, and there are some indications that this year will bring further liberalization to travel rules for Americans. There’s nothing but opportunity, it seems, for travelers interested in seeing the most remote country on the planet.

Again, travel to North Korea is safe, I’m told, as long as you stick to an established tour group, preferably one that specializes in excursions for westerners. Nonetheless, it’s still a good idea to be hyper-conscious of your environment. Here are five ways to make sure you don’t extend the “Ugly American” stereotype to Pyongyang.

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1. Stay on the beaten path
Every travel writer in the world seems intent on delivering super-local, “insidery” insights, encouraging you to really blend. In North Korea, that’s the worst advice you could possibly receive. Want to see something strange? The beaten path will give you plenty.

2. Bring cigarettes

Fuck the Surgeon General! Everything I’ve read suggests that North Korean cigarettes suck. Use packs of Marlboros as tips, and you’ll be treated very well throughout your vacation. Pick up a few cartons at home, preferably in a state that doesn’t tax the hell out of them.

3. Be careful with your camera
There is no shortage of rules about what you can photograph (and how). When in doubt, ask your tour guide. First, you don’t want to run afoul of the regs. More important, though, is that you don’t want to ruin someone else’s day … which could end in a damaged career or worse. This is especially the case if you want to take pictures of North Korean people (which is almost always forbidden).

4. Don’t go political
Be open to having a good time. The official guides are actually quite personable and seem to realize, if subconsciously, that they are in the service industry. Your North Korean tour guides will probably be more accommodating than the flight attendants you encountered en route from the United States. Interact with your guide as guides — not as politicians. These people aren’t setting North Korean policy any more than you’re setting U.S. policy.

5. Interview the tour company
The people taking you into North Korea will make a difference. Stick with a reputable company that has a track record of running tours for westerners. Before you make a purchase, talk to the people who run the company. Get comfortable with them. Don’t be afraid to ask even the strangest questions. The right tour company will not only be open to them, it will answer you from a position of expertise and experience.

North Korea to announce availability to Americans

North Korean officials are thinking about opening the country to American visitors all year long. Though we’d still have to use the existing tour operators and have our options constrained once in the country, we’d at least be able to visit the most isolated country on Earth at virtually any time. Since 2005, Americans have only been able to visit during Arirang — and for only up to five days at a time.

Asia Pacific Travel Ltd has been in touch with Korea International Travel Company, North Korea‘s state-run travel business, which said that a decision on the policy regarding U.S. visitors will be made “around January 25. Asia Pacific Travel is also looking into whether Americans will be able to enter the country by train this year. In the past, only air travel has been open to Americans.

According to Walter Keats, President of Asia Pacific Travel, “If the North Koreans let Americans stay longer, we will be able to offer a different and more extensive mix of long and short-stay study tours.”

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[Photo by ninjawil via Flickr]

North Korea prohibits the use of large suitcases, a model to be replicated?

The effect of monetary policy on the travel industry can be profound in any economy, but in North Korea, it’s usually more complicated. In a developed market, for example, a monetary policy that leads to inflation can make travel more expensive (duh, right). Well, in North Korea, you have to look past the implications of monetary policy to the underlying political drivers … because the root cause can result in more than financial constraints. The end result will blow your mind.

Take Kim Jong Il‘s latest move to revalue the North Korean currency. On its face, it isn’t terribly exciting. Then, you add to it a wealth cap — the people swapping old currency for new could only receive a certain amount back, rendering the unexchanged cash worthless. Though the regime loosened the restrictions from the $40 limit, the policy has still been unpopular. There was some rioting, even some fatalities, but Kim Jong Il and his machine appear to be committed to the measure.

At the same time, the government has announced it would shut down some of the larger private markets, which is how many people survive — the UN estimates that half the calories consumed in North Korea come from these markets. This foray into capitalism has been a pain in the regime’s ass for years, and as the current ruler explores ways to facilitate a handoff to his son, Kim Jong Eun, it’s a good idea to sort all this out. It’s unlikely that the latest Kim will receive a clean Communist state from which to rule, but that won’t stop the current boss from trying.

It’s in these markets that you’ll find the implications of monetary policy for the travel market.The markets are fueled with goods from across the border in China, smuggled in by enterprising and daring North Koreans who are looking for anything from profit to the alleviation of hunger. To make these operations a bit harder, the government has increased border controls, not to mention restrictions on lodging. But, in a manner likely to draw praise from the TSA cause some head-scratching in the rest of the world, the regime has banned big suitcases. Ostensibly, this is to make it harder to smuggle goods into the country for sale in the markets.

You know … if you apply this measure to air travel in the United States, the outcomes would be pretty interesting. Let’s take a look.

The decision of whether to check your luggage or carry it onto the plane disappears. This is one of the most difficult challenges a passenger faces, and thanks to a decision rooted in North Korean monetary policy, it disappears. And, as an added bonus, it also renders any discussion about extra bag fees moot, since the carry-on/check-in decision isn’t relevant.

Have you ever watched with anger as a small person struggles with several big bags, holding up the line at check-in kiosks, security or even the damned Sbarro? With this policy, that wouldn’t happen any more. People would only be able to carry … well … what they can actually carry.

Look, I’m not a fan of the regime in North Korea, and the currency revaluation has had severe consequences — it’s no laughing matter. But, as with any serious situation north of the DMZ, some of the unintended consequences are absurd. A ban on big bags? How the hell do you get from a money swap to luggage? However twisted the road and unfortunate the consequences, it’s hard to hate an idea that would make air travel easier.

DMZ water coming to a Korean grocery store near you

With all the bottled water you’ll find on grocery store shelves these days, any new player absolutely has to have a gimmick. There are just too many brands on the market. So, a company really does need to go the extra mile to stand out. That’s probably why “DMZ 2km” is getting some media love.

DMZ 2km is drawn from a plant in the southern half of the Korean peninsula’s Demilitarized Zone, the 4 km border area that has split North Korea from South Korea for more than 50 years. On land, there is razor wire – and plenty of landmines. Soldiers walk patrols, and there’s sometimes gunfire. Underneath all this is a spring that ultimately feeds the plastic bottles that consumers can buy for 600 won (50 cents) a pop.

The water bottle is adorned with a bird, which is representative of the wildlife that now lives in the DMZ, which hasn’t had much human activity in half a century. More than 2,900 different plant species are estimated to live there, along with 70 mammals and 320 bird types.

Lee Sang-hyo, spokesman for Lotte Chilsung Beverage, tells Reuters, “We decided on water from the DMZ because it’s different, and the environment there is untouched, so many people thinks it’s clean.” Fortunately, he continues, “Getting the water is not dangerous at all. We worked it all out with the military.”

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[Photo by Constantin B. via Flickr]