Arirang, the stunning synchronized performance native to North Korea, began on Monday at the May Day Stadium. New material was on display, as Act III Scene I was “enriched” with “fresh contents more truthfully representing the great mental power and skills of the Korean people.” Needless to say, after reading this, I will never again criticize a publicist’s press release. The Korea Central News Agency, the government’s voice to the outside world, is just too much.
The audience, of course, consisted of “servicepersons and people from all walks of life, diplomatic envoys and representatives of international organizations.” And, unsurprisingly, all thought the show was spectacular. Self-aggrandizement is always interesting on KCNA, with this year’s props coming in the form of “highly acclaimed by the audience for presenting fantastic scenery with a good combination of dynamic mass gymnastics and graceful artistry, ever-changing peculiar background scenes, stage decor and a variety of electronic displays.”
North Korea, the reclusive Communist state, is always reluctant to try something new. The government controls information tightly, as anyone who has read updates from the Korea Central News Agency can see. But, occasionally, a fissure forms in the barriers that separate the most remote country on Earth from the rest of the world. And now, the people who are slowly developing a taste for pizza and beer are taking a look at burgers and fries.
Pyongyang is now home to North Korea’s first fast food restaurant, where the locals can scarf down the same grub that’s made so many Americans overweight … though rampant poverty is unlikely to allow the nation supersize overnight. Named Samtaesong, the place pairs kimchi with burgers, fries and waffles. Beer, a local fave, is available on tap. There are plans to add croissants and hot dogs to the menu – a natural combo – and to open up other locations in the country’s capital.
The food isn’t cheap, according to the North Korean media outlet Choson Sinbo (which is based in Tokyo. A hamburger will set you back $1.70, which is more than half what the average North Korean earns in a day. Fortunately, Pyongyang is home to the country’s wealthiest citizens (so much for the Communist objective of financial equality), so they can afford to eat fast food.
There are other signs of capitalism encroaching on Kim Jong Il’s turf. He was reported to have visited a convenience store recently, though accounts stop just short of whether Apu invited him to “come again!” The Dear Leader did pick up five bottles of a Korean liquor known as “makgeolli” and other drinks.
Fast food, convenience stores … this is starting to prove something I’ve believed for quite a while. Future wars will not be won with armored divisions and air strikes. Instead, ambition, taste and style – the nuts and bolts of capitalism – will yield victory and create foundations for freedom around the world. While I hate to give Puff DaddyP. DiddyDiddy Sean John Combs his due, it really is “all about the Bejamins.”
A successful free enterprise, of course, requires that customers be willing to come back to more. Well, Samtaesong is already on the right track, having had its first satisfied customer, George Bottomley. But, that’s not such a big deal – his only reference point is the food back in Britain.
If you visit Pyongyang, you can make a discovery that has been known in bowling alleys across the United States for decades: beer and pizza go together. This year, new approaches to both the food and the drink have been developed, and the only thing missing is the crash of pins in the background.
Back in March, North Korea celebrated its first pizzeria. It took nearly a decade, but the country was able to import the necessary cooking equipment to set up its first “authentic” shop. To keep it going, Kim Jong Il will need to source and import high-quality ingredients regularly. With many of the 24 million people in his country starving, this doesn’t strike me as the best use of national resources.
But, it’s easy for me to judge. I live in New York, a town with 1,520 pizza establishments, according to a search conducted by Reason. That’s one pizza place for every 5,921 people. Meanwhile, North Korea has a person-to-pizza ratio of 24 million to one. Unpleasant, really.
Now, what is pizza without a cold beer?
Beer has been available in North Korea – at least to the extent that anything is over there. A new brand, though, could fortify the members of the working party, as this new brew is purported to have health benefits. The beer is being touted in a commercial on state television. This is strange, in that commercials in general are extremely rare in North Korea, and this seems to be the first for any food or beverage product.
Look for the commercial after the jump.
Of course, the question remains: how many people could actually see the commercial? Let’s not forget, North Korea is famous for its regular power shortages, which affect even the showplace capital city. So, the secret to happiness and longevity may be missed, because nobody could see the ad.
Though there are “many restrictions on photography that have to be obeyed in the DPRK [Democratic People’s Republic of Korea],” according to Koryo Tours, but you can take pictures of most of what you see. In fact, most guests take more pictures than they expect. If you’re planning to head out to North Korea, do bring extra memory cards for your camera, as you won’t be able to dash off to an electronics store while you’re there.
Of course, this is North Korea, so there are more rules.
You cannot sneak photos of unauthorized subjects, and keep in mind that the people over there are required to report such illicit photography. Get caught, and you will create an uncomfortable situation for you, your guide and anyone else around you. Also, you can’t take pictures while being driven around, and you can’t have a lens of more than 150 mm.
Video cameras are generally not permitted.
Finally, sources who have been there tell me that you can’t take pictures that cut off a statue, poster or other important attraction. Specifically, you need to get the whole statue, for example, in the shot.
Again, be prepared to follow the rules. It makes life a lot easier.
Koryo Tours is offering the least expensive North Korea travel deal I’ve ever seen. Granted, there aren’t many tours to this corner of the world, so there can’t be too many discounts. But, even in this limited field, a $1,000 jaunt to the most isolated country in the world is an incredible find.
For this low price, you can spend three days in North Korea in August (departing from and returning to Beijing). The price of the package includes flights, accommodations, guides, entry fees and the other basics of getting into and out of Pyongyang. You’ll also get two chances to see Arirang – the Mass Games – and a tour of the country’s capital, including the Juche Tower, Kim Il Sung Square and the Pyongyang Metro. Meals are also covered.
The trip runs from August 27 – 29, 2009, with the last date to book August 17, 2009. Students, children and groups of at least three are also eligible for discounts. And, Americans are allowed to take the trip.
There has been nothing like this deal, and the odds of it being offered again are rare. This could be the best chance you have to go to North Korea.