The Dog-Eat-Dog World of (Illegal) Pakistani Kite Flying

The Kite Flying Festival in Lahore, Pakistan has gained much international attention lately due to Khalid Hosseini’s bestselling novel The Kite Runner.  Unfortunately, it has also received too much attention in Pakistan as well, according to Sam Knight of The Times (UK). 

In his wonderfully penned essay, Knight tells us that the annual festival (known as Basant) isn’t a bunch of kids merrily lofting kites into the air, but rather a cutthroat competition in which kite flyers use their kite strings to sever the strings of other kites and send them tumbling back down to earth.  Over the years, however, competitors have engaged in an increasingly dangerous arms race in which kite strings are now coated in crushed glass, acid, or slivers of sharp metal.  As kites are downed, these treacherous strings dangle from trees and electrical lines, often snagging passersby and motorcyclists.  Last year 24 people died from injuries sustained from these so-called death strings.

As if this wasn’t bad enough, corporate sponsors have stepped in to hijack the event, contributing to a growing atmosphere of drinking, partying, and profiteering that has raised the ire of local devout Muslims. 

Faced with such growing concerns, Pakistan actually banned kite flying last December.  This naturally resulted in protests and a rash of illegal kites taking to the air.  A ban was also put in place for the Lahore festival which was to take place earlier this month at the beginning of Spring.  As Knight reports, however, the ban was openly defied throughout Lahore despite legions of police confiscating kites and arresting many of those who dared send their creations aloft. 

 

Skiing in Kashmir

Adventure skiing usually involves steep slopes and challenging terrain, not armed soldiers and disputed
territories.  Yet, this is exactly what journalist Tam Leach potentially faced when he traveled to one of the more dangerous places on this
planet
, Kashmir, to do a little skiing.

Skiing is certainly not the first thing you think of when you hear the word Kashmir.  Some think of sweaters,
others think of Led Zeppelin.  I think about the six backpackers kidnapped a few years ago, a couple of which
ended up beheaded. 

Kashmir, however, is so much more than this.  Located in the Himalayas between India and Pakistan (and thus
the root of the armed conflict over the region) Kashmir is beautiful, mystic country that becomes covered in snow
during wintertime.  It is also home to the world’s highest gondola at 13,400ft.

Leach discovers phenomenal skiing here at a resort called Gulmarg.  I’m not a huge skier myself, but his
description of the slopes and conditions are enough to make me travel half way around the world to engage in a little
adventure skiing.  Leach falls in love with the place, yearning after his return home for “the powder, for
the starry Himalayan skies, for the sensation of skiing close to the top of the world.”  But it is not just
the skiing.  Unlike most ski holidays, he actually has a deeply cultural experience interacting with the
natives.  His greatest desire is to simply return and drink tea with them once again. 

Now that’s a great vacation.

 

Word for the Travel Wise (02/02/06)

Adventure and Pakistan are synonymous. Period. I’m not the only one who feels this way. A visit to the country is an undertaking several will think about and few will dare pursue. Many of you in some point in time have probably dreamed of climbing K2, the second highest mountain in the world while others wishing only to go only to experience the country’s film industry, Lollywood. Pakistan ain’t all mountains and happy-go-lucky sing-song films though, the northern part of the country is known for a portion of the famed Silk Route, Gandhara heritage, and ancient civilizations. On the other hand communal violence and the media’s look at Islamic fundamentalism keeps even the most adventurous travelers wandering. Whatever your reasons, mentioning Pakistan to the lesser explored family members will probably raise an eyebrow or two.

Today’s word is an Urdu word used in Pakistan:

khatarnak – dangerous

Chances are Grandma, Aunt Edna and Uncle Bob will all try to talk you out of your Pakistan endeavor. If you’re lucky they’ll make a little travel kit, pat you on the back, and send you packing without the worry and concern. Who likes going on a trip knowing dear old mom’s poor heart might under go cardiac arrest because you’ve gone off braving the world in some of the most ‘khatarnak’ or dangerous locales? Show them how carefully planned your travel itinerary is and woo them with a few Urdu phrases before you go.

Urdu is the official language of the country, spoken by some 61 million natives and 104 million total. The language falls under the Indo-Aryan family, developed under Persian, Turish, and Arabic. From my own Persian studies I’ve noticed several closely related if not exact same word. Unless someone out there has a few recommendations on learning Urdu on the web other than what is provided here, this could be a small challenge. For some basics on the script and general background info visit UK India. Otherwise I’d say it’s time to head over to My Language Exchange to find some native speakers looking to swap your lingo knowledge for theirs. Click here for a pretty good blog on a world of Urdu topics.