South America

Travel through South America by country:

Argentina, Bolivia, Brazil, Chile, Colombia, Ecuador, Guyana, Paraguay, Peru, Suriname, Uruguay, Venezuela

Travel through South America by popular city:

Bogota, Buenos Aires, Sao Paulo, Rio de Janeiro

Travel through South America by popular things to do:

Adventures in the Amazon, Falkland Islands, Iguazu Falls, Tierra del Fuego


Gadling gear review- Western Mountaineering Caribou MF sleeping bag

In case you haven’t heard, it’s National Sleep Awareness Week. Yeah, I hadn’t heard of it, either. But since we’re being made aware of slumber, you should know about Western Mountaineering’s Caribou MF microfiber sleeping bag.

Because I backpack when traveling for work, it was time to upgrade to something lighter and more compressible than my old-school down bag. I had several key criterion in my search for a new one: price (as in, as low as possible without sacrificing quality), size (I’m practically a midget, and why pay more for a bag that’s designed for someone tall?), weight (I have a bad back, so shaving off even a few ounces is helpful), and three-season capability.

%Gallery-87787%A lot of my travel assignments require for me to go from one climatic extreme to another, and that calls for a pretty specific sleeping bag. I’m always cold, so temperature rating is important to me, but so is water-resistance/water-repellency (Anyone who’s ever backpacked in the tropics can appreciate the special kind of stench that can only come from filthy gear and clothing moldering away in the depths of your back). Down isn’t waterproof, but it’s very lightweight, so I had a dilemma on my hands.

A trusted sales rep acquaintance told me about the Caribou MF, a full-zip mummy bag made from microfiber-a synthetic fabric known for its softness, water repellent / wicking abilities, and durability. He thought it would be the ideal bag for my upcoming, month-long assignment in Ecuador, which would include mountaineering at up to 19,000-plus feet, as well as camping in the Amazon Basin. I decided to give it a try, and purchased an Outdoor Research stuff sack as added protection against moisture (All of Western’s bags do come with their own stuff sacks).

If you’re not familiar with Western Mountaineering, they’re a small, independently-owned company out of San Jose, known for exceedingly high-quality, made-in-the-U.S. of A. products such as sleeping bags and down jackets.

The basics

Caribou’s Microfiber bags are constructed from their patented, 20-denier Microlite XP™ microfiber, which possesses over 400 threads per square inch. Their ExtremeLite bags weigh a little less, are made from a different outer fabric, and are thus slightly less water-resistant and -breathable than the Microlite series. I decided to go with the Microfiber. The other deciding factor for me was the Caribou’s “sewn-thru box” stitching, which is designed to keep the down from shifting (some 3-season bags are designed to shift, so you can regulate the temperature). Look at the spacing of the baffles before you purchase a bag.

Specs

The Caribou comes in three lengths: 5’6,” 6’0,” and 6’6.” Obviously, I chose the shortest bag, which had the following specs: 35-degree F. rating, 3.5″ goose down loft, and a fill weight of just nine ounces. The inside girth (shoulder/hip/foot) is 63″/56″/39.” Western is known for making bags that run broad in the shoulders, for maximum comfort.

The total bag weight is one pound, three ounces, which compresses to 6″ x 10.” Pretty impressive, especially for $275.00.

Road testing: The Pros

Because I knew I had a midnight arrival at Lima airport for a hellish, 12-hour layover, I clipped my Caribou’s stuff sack to my day pack carry-on. After deplaning, I unfurled my bag onto a bank of seats, and had a really great sleep (FYI, the Lima airport totally rocks- the seats don’t have armrests so you can lie down on them, it’s spotlessly clean and safe, the duty-free is open 24-hours, and the suspiro at Manacaru Restaurant is delicious.).

The Caribou kept me toasty at a snowy mountain refuge situated at 15,750-feet on the flanks of Cotopaxi, but what blew me away was my night camping on the Hollin River in the Amazon Basin. Our take-out was a gorgeous little beach the size of a postage stamp. There was no natural shelter, so we rigged a couple of tarps off of a huge boulder for rain shelter, and lay down a ground tarp for our bags. I was awakened at 3am by the sound of rain pounding the tarp. The water was also falling between the gap in the tarps, and the top right side of my bag was soaked. I was sure it was ruined.

The next morning, I shook out my bag, and beads of water flew off. After about ten minutes in the sun, it was completely dry. I couldn’t believe it. The Caribou went on to survive being crammed back into its sack (which I then sealed in the stuff sack) in tropical humidity, where it stayed the remaining three days of my trip. Upon arriving home, I unpacked it, steeling myself for an onslaught of jungle funk and new and exciting strains of mildew. Nada. The bag was as good as new. Didn’t even have to wash it.

I also used it in a badly leaking tent during a horrendous summer thunder storm in Aspen, and what little dampness it had acquired dried quickly once i spread it out the next morning.

The Cons

After a year of ownership, I can’t find anything to complain about with regard to the bag itself. My only nitpicking- and because Western doesn’t do mail order, this isn’t a huge consumer issue- is that every single employee I’ve dealt with at Western appears to be terminally cranky (perhaps they’re sleep-deprived?). They also forgot my stuff sack when they sent my bag, but since it was a special order for a gear review, I’ll forgive them. The main thing is that I ended up buying it, and I’m a Western convert for life. I just hope they’re allowed to catch up on their zzz’s this week.

The Caribou MF is $275; for additional product prices and to find a dealer in your area, click here.

Machu Picchu reopens April 1st

The Peruvian Minister of Foreign Trade and Tourism, Martin Pérez, has announced that popular tourist destination Machu Picchu will reopen to visitors starting April 1st, marking a return to normalcy for the 15th century Inca fortress that is the focal point Peru’s travel industry.

The UNESCO World Heritage site has been closed for nearly two months following torrential rainfall that caused severe flooding back in January. Those floods caused the famous railway to Machu Picchu to washout, stranding thousands of tourists at the site for several days. Since that time, crews have been working hard to restore access, removing major landslides from the tracks, and rebuilding sections that were completely destroyed.

With more than 800,000 visitors per year, Machu Picchu is easily Peru’s top tourist destination. It is estimated that nearly $400 million has been lost due to the closure of the site, and with more than 15,000 Peruvians earning their living, either directly or indirectly, from Machu Picchu, the impact on Peru’s economy has been nothing short of catastrophic. The news of the re-opening offers a ray of hope to those workers.

The over-emphasis of Machu Picchu by the tourism industry in Peru has become a cause for concern amongst officials there. Over the past two months, new plans have been put forth to promote some of the other archeological sites in the area, including Sacsayhuamán and Tambomachay, amongst others. Tourism experts hope that by encouraging travelers to visit these other locations, it will take some of the focus off of Machu Picchu, and diversify the industry to an extent.

Whether or not travelers can be convinced to visit these other sites remains to be seen. But one thing is for sure, both the visitors and the locals alike will be happy to see Machu Picchu open once again.
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Venezuelan church back from watery grave

Potosi, Venezuela hasn’t been on anyone’s travel radar much since 1985. That was the year when the town was deliberately flooded by the Venezuelan government to build a hydroelectric dam. That left most of the worthwhile souvenirs from Potosi rather soggy. However, severe droughts in the region have resulted in an odd miracle, of sorts. The water levels in the man-made reservoir are so low that the town’s previously submerged church is now completely above water and resting on dry land.

National Geographic has some haunting photographs of the 82-foot-tall church that hasn’t been seen in its entirety in 25 years. The good news is that visitors can now witness this beautiful church and marvel at the effects of El Niño. The bad news is 68% of Venezuela’s power is hydroelectric. That means that the country is now experiencing an officially-declared energy emergency.

One could assume that the drought will eventually end and the reservoir will once again drown the town of Potosi. Until then, the church stands in the center of a ghost town that is seeing visitors for the first time in over two decades.

Photo by Flickr user JunCTionS.

Isabel Allende: Report from Chile

Renowned author and humanitarian Isabel Allende is one of Chile’s most acclaimed and beloved writers. Currently a resident of California, she flew to Chile last Friday to witness firsthand the effects of the devastating earthquake and tsunami on her homeland and to raise funds for the country’s rebuilding. I interviewed her by email on Sunday night. Here is her report.

Don George: Where are you in Chile now, and why have you traveled there?

Isabel Allende: I am in Santiago. I came to participate in a 24-hour television fundraiser “Chile Ayuda a Chile” (Chile Helps Chile) hosted by Don Francisco, the celebrity host of Univision. The goal was to raise the equivalent of $30 million. Amazingly, they were able to raise $59 million in an incredible effort that joined the whole country. Everybody is participating in the reconstruction and emergency effort. Kids in schools collect food, blankets, diapers, clothes, etc. They package them and then big trucks distribute the donations where they are most needed. Banks are open day and night to receive cash donations. Volunteers collect in the streets. Everybody is cooperating. The devastation in the south is impossible to describe. Images on TV can’t really give an accurate idea of the suffering. Whole fishing villages were wiped out by the tsunami. Hospitals, schools, bridges, and roads were destroyed, not to mention houses.

DG: What is the mood in Santiago and in the country as a whole?

IA: Chileans are stoic people; they live in the most beautiful country in the world, but it’s also a land of earthquakes, tsunamis, floods, and droughts. In 1960 Chile suffered the worst earthquake in history: 9.5 on the Richter scale. The recent tragedy left people stunned and horrified, but soon the mood changed. Solidarity is the word that best defines the mood. People want to help.There is also a sense of shame for the looting that happened in some southern cities. Shame because most of the looting was not for food or water; angry mobs stole electronics, assaulted cars and houses, and even started fires. The government was able to control the situation rapidly, the police and the military were in the streets and a strict curfew was enforced where needed. Two days later the looters started to return the things they had taken either because the police raided their houses or because they were shamed by the public outcry.

The earthquake showed that in Chile social inequality is still appalling. Chile’s sustained economic growth has placed it among developed nations, but its distribution of wealth is one of the worst in the world.

DG
: Can you describe what you have seen and heard since you arrived in Chile? What is the condition of the affected regions?

IA: What we have seen on TV is a fraction of reality. The destruction in the south — Concepcion, Talca, Chillan — is horrific, but considering the damage, there are fewer casualties than could be expected. In the coastal villages most people ran to the hills as soon as the earthquake began; they knew a tsunami could happen. Chile has strict building codes, so most of the buildings that collapsed were either old or the code had not been properly enforced.

In the affected regions there was no electricity, phones, communications, and water for several days, but slowly things are coming back to normal. The government, the military, the police, churches from all denominations and hundreds of thousands of volunteers are working to help the victims. There is order. As soon as looting was controlled, people started to feel safe. They know that help is there or on its way.

DG: What is the country’s and people’s greatest need at this point?

IA: We need to rebuild hospitals, schools, bridges, roads, houses and much, much more. The winter is starting soon and thousands of Chileans are homeless. The organizations that are building emergency housing are, among others, Un Techo para Chile, Hogar de Cristo, and Fundación para la Superacion de la Pobreza.

DG: What have been the most moving scenes you have witnessed or stories you have heard since arriving?

IA: How could I list the most moving scenes? There are thousands, from the mother who was taken by the tsunami with two children in her arms and later she was rescued, but the sea took her babies, to teenagers gathering food and driving to the disaster zones to feed hot dogs and apples to the hungry, to a seven-year-old girl who survived under her bed when the house collapsed, or a man who cried for his young grandson on the rubble of his house, to a family that lost everything and has organized communal meals for all the neighbors where their house used to be, or a group of seniors on vacation who were taken by the tsunami, or the pets left behind that are starving, and on and on. It’s a never-ending story of grief and loss, but also of courage, patience, solidarity, generosity and even humor.

DG: What are you feeling now?

IA: When I arrived in Chile I was heartbroken and depressed, but now I am hopeful. Chileans are at their best in times of need; we rise to the occasion every time. All our pettiness and arrogance disappear in a crisis, but soon we forget and go back to our old ways. I know that Chile will recover from the material loss. I hope that this tragedy will force us to focus on the moral fabric of our society and that we will remain as generous and united as we feel today.

DG: How long will you stay?

IA: I am leaving tomorrow. I will try to do some fundraising in the States.

DG: What message would you like to give to Americans reading these words?

IA: There is no safety in the world, as anyone who is not a spoiled idiot knows. Relax. You are not in control. Bad things happen. Good things happen. We can lose everything material in an instant but we can always start again from scratch. Human resilience is astounding. Fear is useless; an open heart works much better. Breathe, love, give, rejoice, share, know your neighbor, and don’t waste time in pettiness. Sorry, I sound like a preacher, but this is the lesson I am learning this week in my devastated and beloved country.

Jets to Brazil easier in 2010

Planning on beating the crowds to Brazil before the 2016 Olympics? If you’ve put a shred of research into visiting the beautiful South American country, you probably now know two things: a) its far and b) visas are expensive.

With over $100 in visa fees, a trip to the consulate and a long flight to the southern hemisphere involved, many American travelers are often deterred from visiting the country of Brazil, opting for the less expensive Argentina or more accessible Central America instead.

But several changes this year could help alleviate some pressure. To begin with, ten new flights from the US to Brazil will start operating, spurring demand, capacity and hopefully lower prices.

Brazil is also taking the positive step in reducing some restrictions on tourist visas. Soon, applicants wont need to travel within 90 days of acquiring their visas, and after it’s purchased, the document is good for ten whole years. This means that one can go the first time to scout out rental vacations this winter, again to crash for the Olympics in 20106 and again in 2019 for Carnivale — all on the same visa.

Sure, the $150 visa fee is still a pain in the ass, but at least the investment stays sound for 10 years.

Need some inspiration? Check out Gadling’s 24 hour in Rio guides for a snapshot of beautiful coastal city. Hint: it’s amazing.%Gallery-76818%