South America

Travel through South America by country:

Argentina, Bolivia, Brazil, Chile, Colombia, Ecuador, Guyana, Paraguay, Peru, Suriname, Uruguay, Venezuela

Travel through South America by popular city:

Bogota, Buenos Aires, Sao Paulo, Rio de Janeiro

Travel through South America by popular things to do:

Adventures in the Amazon, Falkland Islands, Iguazu Falls, Tierra del Fuego

Day Trip From Buenos Aires: The Tigre Delta

by Jessica Festa on

When most travelers visit Buenos Aires, Argentina, they explore the main hubs on San Telmo, Palermo, Recoleta and Centro. However, there is another area 45 minutes from Retiro Station that is like an entirely different world: The Tigre Delta.

I learned about Tigre from an expat who had been living in my hostel for the past year. When I asked him if there were any good day trips I should consider, he immediately replied, “You have to see the Tigre Delta. It’s like a cross between the canals in Bangkok and the Jersey Shore.” As I had no idea what this might look like, I decided I had to go.

Tigre gets its name from some very virtuous jaguar farmers that had lived in the area long ago. Arriving in Tigre Station, I immediately walked up to the nearest tourism operator and booked a boat trip down the Tigre Delta with Sturla. For 70 pesos (about $20) you’ll get a guided tour of the river and one of the Delta Islands, coffee, an Alfajor de Maizena treat and a pass for the Tigre Touristic Bus.

Upon first glance of the specialized rivers and rental houses on the water, I understood what the expat had meant. Although the area was definitely very PG for Pauly D’s tastes, it had the summer vacation feel of The Shore, mixed with a very unique lifestyle based on river commerce like in Thailand.One thing that really strikes most people is the smell and sight of the murky brown water. According to my tour guide, the Tigre Delta isn’t polluted. It is sediments that give the water its unique smell and color. In fact, locals use it for bathing, doing laundry, cleaning furniture and watering plants – everything but drinking (thank goodness). There are no poisonous or aggressive animals in the water either, so it’s safe for swimming.

Once I got used to the cloudy water and began to learn more about the area, I started to appreciate its purpose. The people of the Tigre Delta live completely different from the porteños of Buenos Aires. Think of the river as a city road. Not only are there parking lots for boats, but also boats that act as hospitals, supermarkets (shown right), police stations, banks, taxis and garbage “trucks.” Moreover, the look and design of the houses are completely based on the water, which changes tide depending the course of the wind.

The average price of a home on a Delta Island is about $50,000 to $80,000 to purchase. If you’re just looking for a unique summer hangout, you can rent a six-person house for 15 days for about $1,000. While it may sound like you’ll be away from civilization, there are actually public schools, restaurants, hostels, bars, a public library, artificial beaches and opportunities for water sport lessons. There is obviously something drawing people to the area, as the population of 9,000 grows to 30,000 during the summer months.

If you choose to explore the Tigre Delta for yourself, you can either book a boat tour, or rent canoes or kayaks and go on your own. There’s no need to be afraid of falling in; apparently, the water is perfectly clean and safe.

Once your boat tour is complete, there are other activity options on the mainland of Tigre. Just make sure to visit on a weekend, as many attractions in the area shut down during the week. There is the Parque de la Costa, which is the largest amusement park in South America and features over 70 rides and attractions. The cost to get in ranges from 63 to 125 pesos (about $14-$29) depending which pass you choose. Adjacent, there is a great fruit and handicrafts market that sells some of the freshest produce in the city. For gamblers, the Trilenium Casino is an option, with over 1,900 slot machines, 74 board games and seven restaurants. Additionally, if you’d like to do something educational, there are some worthwhile museums, including:

  • Tigre Art Museum (shown above)- Founded in 1910, this palace-like building was the former home of the Tigre Club. Today it houses an expansive collection of Argentine art.
  • National Naval Museum- Formerly the National Navy Workshops, this national monument features paintings, sculptures, naval furniture, flags, ship and airplane models and more.
  • Museum of the Reconquista- This museum focuses on the British Invasions of 1806 and the history of Tigre. There’s also an impressive library with specialized collections.

Paraty, Brazil: A Colonial Beach Paradise

by Jessica Festa on

When visiting Brazil, many people head straight to the big cities of Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo. However, there is a beach paradise located in between the two metropolises called Paraty that is a worthwhile destination no matter what your travel style is. During my trip to the area, I couldn’t get enough of the historical activities, colorful colonial buildings, beautiful beaches, adventure sports, excellent shopping and old-world charm that hasn’t changed in centuries.

Paraty is a small town and it’s almost impossible to get lost. Just because it’s not large in size, however, doesn’t mean there isn’t a lot to do. Here are some of my favorite experiences I had while exploring the village.

History

The main reason most people visit Paraty is to learn about the colonial history of the city. Paraty was built around 1600; however, it wasn’t until the 1800s that the city really made its mark on the map, as this is when gold was found in the area. During this time, the area prospered, two-story homes began to be built and Paraty became the second most important port in Brazil, as it was shipping gold to Portugal. Moreover, African slaves created cobblestone roads for transporting the gold. These have been perfectly preserved, as you can see by how uneven and not uniform they are.

It’s a bit difficult to find an affordable, English-spoken tour in the area. However, Paraty Tours on Av. Roberto Silveira was excellent for this. For about $11, I was able to get a guided walking tour of all the historical sites with a knowledgeable guide. You’ll get to learn about Antiga Cadeia, an old jail from the early eighteen century, the Morro do Forte, an ancient defense fort from 1703, and the historical churches of Igreja de Santa Rita, Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Rosário, Capela de Nossa Senhora das Dores and Matriz de Nossa Senhora dos Remédios.Shopping and dining

Take a walk along the Rio Perequê-Açú. It is a very peaceful river with colorful boats, immaculate houses and people happily fishing. It is especially beautiful at night, when the sun is setting and the streetlights illuminate the water. Along the river, on its more commercial side, is a row of handicraft markets selling handmade jewelry, scarves and souvenirs.

Continue on to the carless Rua do Comércio and you will be placed in the most romantic shopping setting you’ve ever experienced. In Paraty, shops stay open until 9:00 or 10:00 p.m., so I would recommend also exploring this area after sunset. It’s really charming with illuminated cobblestone roads, boutique stores, art galleries, specialty shops, fine dining restaurants and white carts selling delicious cakes and pastries. You’ll also be able to experience an array of local and international music, as one block may be filling the air with upbeat Brazilian music and another could be blasting Akon or jazz and blues. It’s also very lively at night, as the streets are filled with locals and tourists shopping and going out for dinner and drinks. Note: Do not wear heels! While beautiful and historical, the cobblestones are very uneven and difficult to walk on. Even locals do not wear heels on this street.

If you’re hungry but don’t want to spend a lot of money, turn down Rua da Lapa and walk one block until it turns into Av. Roberto Silveira. You’ll know when you’ve hit it as there will be cars again and the charming ambiance will be replaced with a more hurried feel. Instead of going into a typical restaurant, enter one of the many Acai cafes. Brazil is well known for its delicious Acai (shown right), and these eateries not only sell juices and desserts, but usually dinner as well. My favorite was Boutique do Acai, where I was able to get a cheeseburger and bowl of acai gelato with banana slices and honey for about $4 total. They also have outdoor tables, ideal for people watching and enjoying the fresh air and surrounding palm trees.

Hiking and adventure sports

Paraty features many mountains and tropical Atlantic rainforest, so there are ample options for the hiking enthusiast. I took the bus to Laranjeras, where I was able to take a two-hour rainforest hike, which ended on a white sandy beach. There’s also a little fishing village that’s fun to explore. Getting there can be a little confusing, but not impossible. Catch the LINHA 1040 bus from the bus station, which costs 3 Reais (about $1.60) each way. The stop is towards the end of the route. However, the driver will complete the entire route without telling you where the end is, so if you don’t know where to get off, you could end up back in Paraty. The stop is at the top of the hill, once you enter the uphill community off the main road. Your best bet is to ask the driver to announce your stop. If you don’t speak Portuguese, ask someone at your hotel to write the request down on a piece of paper to show the bus driver.

Another excellent hike that will allow you to explore lush rainforest, challenging mountains, unique rock formations and paradisiacal beaches is in Trindade (pictured right). There are four beaches and Trindade is first on the hike. I usually subscribe to the thought that while certain beaches are more beautiful than others, a beach is a beach. Trindade changed my mind immediately, as unworldly rock formations scatter on one end of the beach and tropical flora sets a jungle-like background. You can also explore various hidden rock and forest alcoves, all small but very unique. To hike all four beaches while also going through patches of rainforest and stopping at Caixa d’Aço — a natural swimming pool excellent for snorkeling — you can access the trailhead at the opposite end of the beach from where the bus drops you off. It is in the area where the bars and restaurants are.

For more intense hiking, you can cross the road behind the beach and head up an opening in the mountain. I accessed a trail by first following the arrow for “Vila de Trindade.” When you’re about two-minutes uphill, there’s another sign advertising “Pousada Encontro das Àguas,” which is where the hike begins. To get to Trindade, simply take the Trindade bus from the bus station. You will see signs for the area and the beaches.

Those looking for adventure can enjoy more than just hiking. Paraty is also known for its exceptional scuba diving. In fact, multiple people in the hostel I stayed at were in Paraty specifically to become certified divers. The waters in the area are calm and clear, making for high visibility underwater. Furthermore, tropical fish and marine life make the experience really worthwhile.

Biking, kayaking, surfing, horseback riding and outdoor adventure ropes and climbing courses are also available in Paraty. Click here for more information on these activities.

Drinks

The national drink of Brazil is the caipirinha, which is so strong and delicious thanks to the special ingredient, cachaça. If you haven’t had a caipirinha in Brazil, you haven’t really had a caipirinha, as it needs this locally produced alcohol to make it truly authentic. In Paraty, you’ll not only get to sample this real-deal cocktail, but also learn how cachaça is made and sample some at one of the seven distilleries in the area. Why should you do this in Paraty? The city was known during colonial times as the most important brandy producing area in Brazil. In fact, until the mid-twentieth century, the word “Paraty” was synonymous with the word “brandy.”

If you’re in the mood to dance, Paraty 33 is an energetic club located in the historic center of the town. While fun, just know it’s also the only dance club in Paraty so it gets crowded. If you want to dance but need more space, head over to any outdoor bar in the area. I loved the popular Geko Hostel Bar, and Brazilians have no problem creating their own dance floors in the streets.

Photo Of The Day: Easter Island P.D.

by Meg Nesterov on


Spring is in full swing and Easter and Passover are coming this weekend. Looking for something seasonally appropriate, I searched the Gadling Flickr pool but instead of Easter the holiday, I found images of Easter the Island. This shot by davitydave especially caught my eye, showing the uniformed (and probably Chilean) Easter Island police looking rather stern and serious with their incredible and unusual view. I wonder what their “beat” is like? Do they see much action other than rowdy tourists and the occasional protest? Hey officers, I see some shady looking characters loitering down at the water.

Add your travel photos to the Gadling Flickr pool to be featured on another Photo of the Day.

Visiting The Favela Of Rocinha In Rio De Janeiro, Brazil

by Jessica Festa on
“There were five people killed in the past two days,” Patrick, tour guide from Be A Local, whispered to me. “Even though the cops are moving the gangs, they’re trying to get back in.”

It was sunny and 85 degrees Fahrenheit that afternoon in Rio de Janeiro. In the distance, I could see trekkers climbing Sugarloaf Mountain, hang gliders whizzing through the air and kayakers taking advantage of the calm waters and beautiful beaches. So, what was I doing spending the day wandering around one of the most notoriously dangerous places in the country, the favela of Rocinha?

The previous day, I had been hanging out with a local who had told me that she thought it was an interesting and eye-opening experience, and even she had done a favela tour. In Rio, colorful hillside favelas dot the landscape just as much as beaches and mountains. If you want to really get to know the whole personality of Rio de Janeiro, you should consider visiting one — with a tour, of course, as these places can be unsafe to enter alone.

This is what brought me to Rocinha, instead of the beach, on that beautiful day. For those who don’t know what a favela is, it’s basically a slum or shantytown. Rocinha is the biggest favela in Brazil, and one of the largest in the world. While a 2010 census found there to be about 70,000 occupants, many believe there are actually more than 150,000. The favela is so big it is actually considered a neighborhood with its own neighborhood association. While many of the houses do have basic amenities and the town has shopping and cultural opportunities, it is still not somewhere you want to hangout alone. Concrete buildings aren’t made of concrete because it looks nice; they’re made that way because it gives extra protection from bullets over brick homes. At the bottom of the hill, you will find sewage, garbage and crumbling homes due to poor foundation. The smell in the air flips between rotten eggs and sewage to sweet cakes and sizzling meats, as you stumble through narrow alleys and over uneven rock, decaying wood and twisted wires.

Usually, the way a favela works is the people who live in them do not pay taxes. However, since November of 2011, police forces have taken over the streets in an attempt to clean up the area. Now residents do pay taxes and the cable and electric that was once illegally installed in homes is accounted for. Furthermore, police have been able to move gangs that had been wreaking havoc over the favela, although there are still problems with these groups trying to invade. Still, I was surprised that with all the corruption, disease and drug dealings Rocinha is known for, there are facilities like clothing shops, medical facilities, dance schools, art galleries, bakeries and even a daycare center. The favela has a rich culture and many of the residents are friendly, especially the energetic children that dance and smile in the streets.




One reason for the improvement in quality of life is these people who would once beg for money now are being told they must earn it. Whether through baking, painting, dancing, or drumming – as you can see in my video above – many of these people are now working hard to make money. Moreover, a samba school, ballet school, and music school are also in the favela, allowing for youths to become involved in extracurricular activities. At the bottom of the hill, a sports complex offering boxing, martial arts, capoeira, football, volleyball, swimming, surfing and more is offered, free of charge, as long as the family’s children are enrolled in school. The city is planning to also install cable cars and funiculars, to help those who work in the city and children in school get home in an easier and safer way. Events in the favela like marathons, boxing matches, and dance competitions are also giving the area something positive to focus on.

While walking around the favela, it was clear there is a lot of room for improvement. However, it is also obvious there are people living there with a lot of potential who want to do something good with their lives. The area holds a lot of culture- and the best view of Rio in town- it just needs to remove the dirt and grime hiding its beauty. At least 20% of Rio de Janeiro’s population lives in favelas, and most of them are good people who just want to put a roof over their heads. Hopefully, the new favela pacification program can continue to help bring a higher quality of life to these people.

Eating Acai: A Delicious Cultural Experience In Brazil

by Jessica Festa on

“So, what are some things I should do when I arrive in Rio de Janeiro” I asked my airplane seat mate, Clarissa, a local of the city.

“Ipanema beach is my favorite, Sugarloaf Mountain has great views of the city and you must try açai!” she replied excitedly.

I looked at her skeptically. “Açai? We have that in New York, too. That’s not much of a cultural experience.”

Was I ever wrong!

In Brazil, açai cafes, fruit shops and natural food eateries are on every street corner. These serve everything you could imagine – açai juices, bowls of frozen açai with fruit and toppings, açai cheesecake and even açai syrup to use on ice cream. I became addicted to frozen açai with honey and banana slices (shown above).

Açai is an Amazon fruit that is a natural source of iron, healthy fats, B vitamins, calcium and many other nutrients. Depending where you are in Brazil will determine how and why you consume it. In the southeast of Brazil, in places like Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo, açai is popular among athletes. In fact, some of the locals I asked described it as being “trendy” to eat. Often served cold with guarana, strawberry or banana, the sweet treat gives sports enthusiasts a useful energy boost. Even those who aren’t into working out still enjoy açai as a snack or healthy dessert.If you head into the north of Brazil the way the fruit is eaten begins to change. This is where açai is cultivated, in a state called Pará. Here you can see many boats coming from the area’s Amazon Forest filled with baskets of the fruit in its pure form. The locals in this area eat it differently — served with fish, as a side dish, at its natural temperature. To me this sounded odd but I was explained that it is similar to how many other cultures eat beans as a side dish. They’re full of iron, protein and energy, which laborers in the area need to do physical work. Furthermore, because the area is very humid, people eat açai to pep them up when feeling sluggish from the climate.

Because açai berries are imported to the United States and other parts of the world, the only place you can really get fresh açai is in Brazil. In other words, eating açai in Brazil is very much a worthwhile cultural experience.