Dining in Dushanbe: Merve

Dushanbe isn’t NYC, it isn’t Paris, and it most certainly isn’t Rome. In other words it may not be the most high-trafficked culinary city in terms of tourism, but having had the opportunity to dine out around town quite often I feel it my duty to dish the 411 on the good and bad plates in this big Central Asian city. To kick it off I’ll start with Merve.

Merve makes Lonely Planet’s Author’s Choice and for good reason. Affordable, tasty meals with friendly wait-staff make this one a real winner. For the first two weeks of my stay, Merve was the breakfast stop for me and my Habitat GV companions every morning. Start the day with a small yoghurt, sausage omelet, or Turkish pizza – three menu items that quickly became personal favorites. Initially the sausage has an awkward taste, but it grows on you. I’m told its chicken sausage since pork can’t really be found in Dushanbe. Mornings are pretty quiet at the Turkish cafe, but things start getting really busy around 11 AM and stay busy until closing time. If you check in for lunch, grab the donar kebab. It can be prepared on a sandwich, but go for the shredded meat over rice. Dishes range from 2TJS-7TJS.

There are two locations in Dushanbe, though the most popular appears to be that found at Rudaki 92.

Volunteer Vacation Day One: Shovels, Buckets, & the Pit


On the days leading up to my departure both friends and family raised their eyebrows and shook their heads as I casually talked about my coming vacation. Vacation in their eyes is not taken in unpronounceable places bordering Afghanistan like Tajikistan and most certainly does not involve any kind of strenuous labor. While many applauded my efforts, several just wished I’d picked a different destination. In my eyes aid is aid and it makes no difference in which part of the globe one decides to lend a helping hand. I thought about all these things as sweat trickled off my brow rolling its way down and around my chin.

For the first day the team had been broken up into three groups. There were those who shoveled dirt into buckets, those who carried dirt to the pit, and those who worked in the pit shoveling and smoothing the dirt. I was part of the bucket line. The temperature was easily 100 degrees. The Tajik construction masters and workers watched in slight disbelief as our team of nine foreigners; seven women and two men baked with our tools in the heat. We were hard workers and wanted to do great things for the homeowner on his worksite. All of our building would be done in Dushanbe, the capital city of Tajikistan, but this particular community or village was called Konstitutsiya as I was told by one of our helpful translators Khushvakhtullo. The homeowner’s name was Rahmon which meant merciful or kind and the adorable child he often carried was his grandson Ishmael. The women were rarely ever around.

Everyone on the site was pleasant and though carrying buckets of dirt took a toll on my scrawny little arms this was the type of cultural exchange I’d been looking for. This was my second Global Village build with Habitat for Humanity International, but after five years it was long overdue. I’d learned from the first the importance of giving something or anything back to the communities in my far off excursions felt highly rewarding. Interacting in ways beyond that of the average tourist I became apart of larger cultural exchange. Along with each pass of my two buckets 3/4 filled with dirt to our Tajik construction supervisor, Saiali, I passed a smile and a little hope, I’m sure. In Tajikistan the average house cost $4,864 USD. The average income I was told was around $20-$30 USD a month. Part of me couldn’t imagine. As I lifted another bucket I tried to picture what living in the country year round must be like? It was difficult.

Our knowledge of the Tajik language increased far faster on site than it would have just walking Rudaki. Most of us tried using terms like rahmat (thank you) and iltimos (please) as we exchanged tools or buckets. I challenged things a bit by asking for words and phrases like superstar and piece of cake. Jokingly I told our new friends the work was easy or khelyi sabud, but it wasn’t all that easy as everyone continued working their butts off and by the end of the day our huge dirt mound was practically nothing. We’d successfully moved most of the dirt needed to fill the foundation of the room from the mound to the room. We titled the room the pit considering it was nothing more than an empty space prior to our being there. Our volunteers, Allie and Diego in the pit were by far some of the dirtiest and like vacuums, sucked up the most dirt. At the end of day one the entire team could feel their efforts in their bones and see them in bruises that had only began to develop.

It was a good day and we were told the next would be harder. This is just the beginning of my volunteer vacation in Tajikistan.

Tajik Air – Party Plane

There are certain travel stories you hear about and instantly grow insanely jealous that you didn’t get the opportunity to experience them first-hand. If you recall I opted out of meeting my other travel companions in Moscow to fly through Istanbul to Dushanbe on Turkish Air. My main reason for doing so was to avoid the additional transit Russian visa fees and besides it was far out of the way. In the process of avoiding flying Russia’s friendly skies I apparently missed out on one of the wackiest flights of a lifetime. Reports from two parties confirm Tajik Air is somewhat of a party plane.

How-so? Well, for music you’ll be graced with the sounds of hundreds of cell phone ringtones as provided by your in-flight mobile phone DJ. Don’t count on sleeping. If you’re a pretty foreigner, do count on having your picture taken by the mobile phone DJ who has a built in camera on their phone. If you’re extra glamorous in their eyes you will also have your head patted during the flight. Just when things really start to shake up things will not only shift in the overhead bins, the overhead bins as well as the roof compartment will open. Please, no sudden moves.

The second report I received from a Nat Geo guy noted smoking on board was okay, beer guzzling and shirtless back massages were additionally “A-OK.” Did the flight attendants care? Nope. Was all this really real? How I would have loved to been a fly on the wall.

Being Invisible in Foreign Countries

Perhaps my days of traveling abroad are numbered. Wait, no, never. First, let me say hello and I’m back from my three week jaunt through Central Asia or more specifically the Republic of Tajikistan. I’ll get to the meat of the matter on why I was there and what I was doing over the coming days, but it was a real experience to say the least.

My first two weeks strolling Rudaki, the main drag running through the capital city of Dushanbe were pretty cool. As a foreigner I stuck out as one would expect and children, women, and men all stared as I’d pass by. Even if they didn’t look directly at me I could feel the amount of effort it took for them to walk by without glancing my way burning off their being. Maybe the handful of stares I was getting had me paranoid. I started thinking everyone was starring at me. By my final days of the third week I was wishing only to blend in, to go unnoticed as I ducked into internet cafes and to be invisible on foreign streets. Was it too much to ask?

As an African-American woman traveling I never know what I’m going to get or what to expect. For starters there is very little diversity in Tajikistan and black people are an extreme rarity. (I counted 7 total during my time there.) And there are several very clear occasions were I found my presence was shocking more of the locals than their culture, appearance, or environment was shocking me. For instance:

  • During the 15th Independence Day celebrations on September 9 many Tajiks were more interested in taking pictures of my hairstyle and me than watching the show. The KGB ran into the stands where we seated to swat the young boys with camera phones away.
  • Young children chased me down the street with camera phones trying to snap my photo. (I wondered about their age and why they had cell phones anyway.)

A lot of people asked if I was African, Ethiopian, or Canadian and basically guessed anything but American. One guy I knew joked saying they probably thought I was a rapper as it’s pretty popular among the youngsters, but by that time I was just a wee-bit tired. “Okay, the freak show is over you can all move along now,” I thought. Please don’t mistake this rant for a sob story of sorts. I’m sure the same feeling comes over Caucasians trekking through Africa over periods of time. I don’t know. Does it? Have you ever been burnt out on being the odd man out in your travels?

Travel learning experience for me: Being the center of attention is swell on occasion, but no one wants to be gawked at everytime they open their front door.

Word for the Travel Wise (09/08/06)

Last November when Outside magazine featured Mark Jenkin’s piece on his travel through the Wakhan Corridor I had no clue I would be traveling through the region in less than a year. While my trip is very different than Mark’s the story and pictures fueled my imagination and here I am! Didn’t really plan it this way, but I’m hoping once I have the time to share my own tales they too will ignite someone to go the Wakhan or some place nearby.

Today’s word is a Wakhi word used in the Wakhan:

dishma – I don’t know.

Wakhi is an Iranian language, but from my Iranian studies I’m seeing many differences. (Not that I’m an expert, but you know.) It belongs to the Pamir language group. There are about 50,000 Wakhi Tajiks worldwide. Learning Wakhi will be hard online. If going to Tajikistan stick to either Tajik or Russian.

Tajik is the official language of the country and is closely related to the Persian (Farsi) language spoken in Iran. According to Wiki the most important Tajik-speaking cities of Central Asia are Samarkand and Bukhara which are located in present-day Uzbekistan. In addition to giving interested language learners a taste at some commonly used words and phrases, the Great Game Travel Company has excellent info and short trips for touring the city of Dushanbe, Tajikistan. Be sure to check out the list of words first. If you’re near the University of Washington look into their Near Eastern Language Programs. Lonely Planet has a pocket-sized phrasebook on Central Asian lingos worth packing along and several other book picks can be found by clicking here.

Past Tajik words: rohi safed, mailesh, rahmat / tashakkur, samolyot