Thailand’s Naga Fireball Festival

“Do you believe in the Naga?” the hotel receptionist asks me as I checked in to my room in Udon Thani, Thailand.

“I don’t know,” I reply. “I’ve never seen one. Do you?”

“Oh yes!” She says, and the clerk behind her nods as well.

Across Asia, the Naga is a mythical serpent-like creature. It plays a role as a snake in the Mahabarata, takes the form of a dragon in China, and in northern Thailand and Laos along the Mekong River, the Naga is a waterborne serpent that protects residents from danger.

Once a year along the Mekong, this Naga spits fireballs into the sky. The phenomenon always occurs at the end of Buddhist Lent, on the 11th full moon of the lunar calendar. In Thailand’s Nong Khai Province, festivities are full-on, with hundreds of thousands of spectators lining the river’s banks in front of temples. Nong Khai town is the most well known spot for festivities but sees the fewest fireballs – it’s best to head out of town to either Phon Phisai or Rattanawapi, 50 and 80 kilometers downriver from Nong Khai, respectively.

This year, I set up in front of Wat Tai in Phon Phisai. Last year 100,000 spectators watched for fireballs here, but only two were observed. I’m hopeful that the Naga won’t let me down this year.The heat and humidity were stifling under the darkening sky, and the acrid smoke from fireworks coated my skin. Bats flit about overhead while flies and other insects landed on my damp neck and arms. The Mekong rippled past, wide and silent and muddy, and the night sky was dotted with dozens of floating lanterns, their flames glowing like Shakespeare’s nights’ candles. Along the water, a long boat glided slowly by, only its twinkling lights visible. It looked like a bedazzled centipede crawling through the dark.

The crowd extended as far as I can see in the night. Across the river, Laos was comparatively dark and silent, with only the occasional roman candle going off.

About an hour and a half after sunset, a line of white-robed people marched from the temple behind me, making an offering to the river. Then, we waited. Surely the Naga wouldn’t disappoint this expectant audience? After about 20 minutes a yell waved across the crowd, and everyone jumped to their feet and looked downriver. I didn’t catch sight of that fireball, but after another ten minutes I did.

The fireballs shoot quickly and vertically from the river, so fast they’re halfway gone before I notice them. They are wispy and faint, like ghosts or wallflowers: something difficult to see, even when you’re looking right at it. In comparison, the floating lanterns are bright, leaden suns, floating large and lazily above the river. The fireballs disappear quickly, dissipating about 100 meters up into the dark. I saw four fireballs that night, but several more were sighted after I left.

For the nonbelievers, there are a couple of explanations for the fireballs (also called “Mekong lights”). One theory holds that methane gas trapped under the river bed finds just the right conditions this time of year, and is released and ignited upon surfacing. This theory doesn’t explain why it only happens on this particular full moon in presumably varying weather conditions throughout the years.

The other theory is that the lights are simply tracer fire shot up by the Lao across the river. While compelling, the Lao vehemently deny it, and it also does not explain how the lights are shot vertically from the center of the river. When a Thai television show “revealed” this theory, residents on either side of the Mekong rioted.

For the hundreds of thousands of spectators, the Naga has made its presence known.
To see the Naga fireballs yourself, head to Northeast Thailand. Flights and trains arrive in Udon Thani, about an hour from the town of Nong Khai. Once in Nong Khai, enjoy the festivities there or take a bus further out to Phon Phisai or Rattanawapi. By the time five fireballs were witnessed in Phon Phisai, this year, 100 had already been counted in Rattanawapi. Be sure to arrive early and stake out a riverside spot before sunset; the crowds are enormous.

[Photos: Catherine Bodry]

Thai Airways A380 launches Intra-Asia Service, A Test Drive Of Business And First

Following its delivery late last month, Thai’s first A380 has been operating silky smooth intra-Asia routes for just over a week, and we’ve managed to hop on board to experience the airline’s Royal First service from Hong Kong to Bangkok, followed by a Royal Silk (business) segment to Singapore. The Airbus flagship has been ferrying passengers around the globe for a half-decade, but Thai’s in-flight experience is among the world’s most luxurious, making us eager to see how the world’s largest jetliner would serve to make one of the planet’s best airlines even more desirable. Economy appears to be in line with what we’ve experienced on other A380s, so we skipped right to the premium cabins. The journey was fantastic, and we’re happy to share – keep reading to hop aboard the industry’s leading super jumbo for a couple short jumps in this five-star beauty.

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Thai Royal First

If you can afford it, there’s (almost) no better way to fly. Thai’s first-class service includes the airline’s most attentive flight attendants, paired with multi-course meals and Dom Perignon Champagne, even on our 2 hour, 20 minute flight from Hong Kong to Bangkok. Despite the A380’s enormous floor plan, we liken the experience to flying on a roomy private jet – even the business section is separated by a curtain, so there’s very little pedestrian traffic to worry about beyond the 12 passengers calling this 1-2-1 cabin home for the duration of your flight. There’s no in-flight shower here, as you’ll find on Emirates’ A380, or the bed-equipped suite from Singapore’s jet, but the section does pack a very roomy bathroom with a sitting area and high-end amenities, along with a four-seat lounge at the nose, complete with universal power outlets and seat belts. We didn’t feel any need to escape the spacious seat during this short regional hop, but we could see a communal area coming in handy during a 12-hour hop to Frankfurt.


Looking to disconnect from the world when you’re 35,000 feet above? Not here. Wi-Fi Internet is provided by Airbus’ OnAir satellite-based service, which means hefty tariffs of $14.95 for 13MB of usage or $29.95 for 26 megs. You’ll also rack up charges of just under 60 cents per 100KB over the limit, or you can opt to disconnect once you reach your pre-purchased allotment. Thai is also planning to offer in-flight cellular service, which unfortunately wasn’t available at launch. Like other A380s, Thai’s version includes a state-of-the-art entertainment system, with 23-inch touchscreens in first, 15.4-inch displays in business and a 10.6-inch model in economy. Twenty-three inches of real estate may sound excessive, but given the five or so feet that separate you from the display in first, the size is just right.


The seat itself is large even by international airline standards – it should comfortably accommodate even the most generously sized passengers. There are three stowage compartments flanking the cushion, with space for cellphones, power adapters and a small library of reading materials. The universal power outlet should accommodate any laptop adapter, while a pair of USB ports will let you charge up both your business and personal smartphones. The IFE includes an industry standard wired controller, which you will indeed need to use here, since the 23-inch touch-enabled display is located a good five feet away. Seating controls include headrest, back and leg rest adjustments, along with a Do Not Disturb button, should you wish to opt out of the seemingly endless meal and drink service. There are also dedicated controls for jumping right into bed, meal and takeoff/landing mode, all of which activate with the speed and efficiency of a Hong Kong subway escalator.


Since we spent most of the flight eating and drinking, the sliding table was a fantastic addition. The soft armrest serves only to support your appendage – there’s no tuck-away tray in there. The one and only option spans the width of the seat, and slides all the way from the bottom cushion to just below the display, should you need to hop out or do some work mid-service. The tray felt very durable and doesn’t require extra support. It shook a fair amount during taxi and takeoff, sure, but there was never any risk of it coming loose or causing injury. After dessert, it’s time for lights out, at which point you can keep the party going with a secondary lamp on one side or a unique glowing purple panel on the other. There’s no sliding door to close off the seat entirely, but you can lift a motorized partition between you and your seat mate in the center pairing.


Thai Royal Silk (Business)
After landing in Bangkok, we deplaned from the upper deck (both premium cabins are up top) and were greeted by a determined chauffeur who shuttled us through the connecting flights security line, leaving us in the capable hands of a Royal First Lounge attendant. One complimentary 30-minute neck and shoulder massage later we were back on board, this time in Silk. Jumping from first to biz on a domestic US carrier typically represents only a modest bump in service, but the difference here is far more significant. Unfortunately, so is the cost, making the business cabin a much more reasonable option for executives and luxury seeking casual flyers alike.


Where the first class cabin offers a cozy sanctuary, isolated from your neighbors until you rise from your soft fabric throne, business feels much more in line with the long-haul mid-tier experience of other carriers. Seats are still arranged in a 1-2-1 configuration, but they seem considerably more cramped than those in the front. For single travelers, the window seats are ideal, with two portholes per seat in most rows, and a cradle design that offers a fair amount of privacy. While the center seats span a width similar to United’s 747 and select 777s, which accommodate four passengers with aisle access only for the outer two, the arrangement here enables quick escapes for everyone in the cabin, thanks to a staggered design which alternates two seats nearer to the windows and two at the center from one row to the next. The center pair is ideal for couples traveling together, while the outer seats offer significant separation from your row mate.


There’s a side storage compartment positioned just below the armrest, large enough for a wallet and cellphone, perhaps. A large footrest lets you stretch out comfortably even during takeoff and landing – there’s much less space between the front edge of the seat and the forward console than you’ll find in first. A small compartment under the footrest can hold your shoes, while all other belongings need to go in the overhead bin. The tray table flips up and out of the way, and can rotate towards the footrest for aisle access during meal service. Like in the first class cabin, there’s a universal power outlet at the bottom of the side console, and two USB ports below the 15.4-inch touchscreen fixed directly in front of the seat (there’s no privacy filter, and the viewing angle is actually quite decent, so you can watch a neighbor’s display with ease). The USB port position isn’t great for charging gadgets, since there aren’t any pockets nearby for storage. Another poorly positioned component is the wired remote – when docked, it’s far too easy to bump playback controls with your elbow, given that the wand tucks away just beside the armrest.


The seat, while much narrower than its first-class counterpart, does lie flat for sleeping. A control panel lets you move the headrest, lumbar support and bottom cushion individually, or you can hit the bed, relax or upright buttons for speedy access to presets. It’s comfortable enough, but forgettable – it should provide a decent sleep, while the first class seat is something to write home about. You have your choice of overhead or side-mounted lights for reading after the cabin LEDs dim. There’s no Do Not Disturb button in this cabin, though an A380 info folder in the seat pocket includes a similarly labeled sticker, which you can place on the adjustable headrest should you desire a bit of peace and quiet.

As much as we were blown away by the Royal First cabin, the Royal Silk seats and cluttered positioning left us underwhelmed at best. The airline’s service is attentive and thorough in both sections, even on our short two-hour Singapore leg, but unless you’re riding up front, this latest member of Thai’s fleet doesn’t yield a drastically improved in-flight experience. Overall, the A380 does offer a fantastically smooth and quiet ride, however, so if it’s flying your route, you won’t regret booking a seat. It’s a massive craft, but you wouldn’t know it – unlike in economy, where you’re free to move between the upper and lower decks; first and business are both locked down with curtains and ropes, limiting your opportunity to explore this airborne marvel. We love the new aircraft smell and fresh, and unmarked seats are always welcome, but without a first class ticket, we’d be just as happy flying Thai’s other wide-body jets, assuming the seats tilt into beds and the in-flight entertainment is up to date.

[Photo credits: Zach Honig]

Cruise Line Destination Focus Brings Off-Ship Adventures

Cruise lines continue to bust into new territory, shaking off their booze cruise, buffet bonanza reputation with a keen focus on the destinations they visit. Off the ship, cruise travelers want more than a packaged shore excursion. They want more time in port with active experiences rather than passive viewing. Cruise lines are beginning to deliver too. Spending some of the clout they earn by bringing millions in tourism revenue to ports around the world, cruise lines are tapping local sources and setting up unique off-ship adventures.

Crystal Cruises has Overland Adventures that take Crystal guests to unique, immersive events ashore. Typical of the intensity level of their Overland Adventures is a three-night Laos Overland Discovery during a March 7, 2013, Southeast Asia cruise, offering an intimate look into the rich history, culture and scenery of the former French colony and UNESCO World Heritage site, Luang Prabang, considered the best-preserved city in Southeast Asia.Those participating will get off their cruise ship, Crystal Symphony, in the port of Laem Chabang, Thailand where they will spend the first night. From there, they fly to Laos for two nights, to see a Laotian Buddhist alms-giving ceremony, visit sacred temples and other attractions then sail across the Mekong River to the Buddha-filled Pak Ou Caves. Travelers then rejoin Crystal Symphony in Ho Chi Minh City.

While in the area, Crystal offers other off-ship adventures with titles like “The Wonders of Angkor Wat,” “Phong Nha Caves & Vietnam Heritage” and “A Portrait of Vietnam: Hue, Hoi An & Hanoi.”

The whole destination immersion focus has become so popular that Azamara Club Cruises is adding a complimentary immersive destination event ashore featured on every voyage.

Azamara guests sailing a Baltic cruise voyage, for example, might enjoy a private ballet performance in St. Petersburg, Russia, while walking the red carpet and sipping champagne. Travelers on a Mediterranean cruise may find themselves sampling Jerez, Spain’s famous sherry wine at Gonzalez Byass and later enjoying a private equestrian ballet at the Royal Andalusian School of Equestrian Art.

These are not your typical cruise line “load everybody up in a tour bus and drive around” excursions.

Mainstream cruise lines, still mostly limited to day trips, are testing the waters for immersive off-ship adventures. In Alaska, Princess Cruises continues to explore the land of the midnight sun with experiences like a Back Country Zodiac Expedition, a Bering Sea Crab Fishermen’s Tour or a Heli-Hike & Rail Adventure.

For now, we’re finding these experiential off-ship adventures on high-end luxury lines. But look for mainstream cruise lines to offer intense lifetime event experiences in the near future.



[Flickr photos by *christopher*]

Strange Festivals From Around The World

Fall festival season is in full swing now, getting people out and about on the crisp autumn weekends. Some festivals are annual events across town, others take a road trip or weekend getaway to see. In the United States, many have a common theme that includes pumpkins, hay and cider somewhere along the way. In other parts of the world, annual festivals at different times of the year offer a measure of tradition and have been held for decades. Others are just plain odd but they bring some of the most fun that distant lands have to offer.

Sakon Nakhon Wax Castle Festival
Coming up in October, Thailand has the Sakon Nakhon Wax Castle Festival, marking the end of Buddhist Lent. During the festival, the people of Sakhon Nakhon gather in a celebration, which includes a Wax Castle procession, longboat races and cultural performances. Originally using beeswax to make different kinds of flowers, attached to banana tree trunks, today’s festival features castles, temples and shrines paraded around the city showcasing local skill and wisdom.

[Flickr photo by e-dredon]

The Battle of Oranges
Basically a huge food fight, the Battle of Oranges is a festival in the Northern Italian city of Ivrea, which includes a tradition of throwing of oranges between organized groups. During the three-day Orange hurling brawl, the city will go through 50,000 cases of oranges (about 400 tons) as townspeople will get dressed up to re-enact a Middle Age battle. Those dressed as Middle Age kings’ guards, throw oranges at others dressed as foot soldiers as thousands of people gather to watch.

[Flickr photo by Giò-S.p.o.t.s.]

The Night of the Radishes
Mexico has their Day of the Dead festival held in November, a centuries-old tradition that honors those who have died with a walking procession through town in a Mardi Gras sort of way. The Night of the Radishes comes in December and is an exhibition of sculptures made from large red radishes especially grown for this event. It is held only in Oaxaca, Mexico, which is the name of both a state in Mexico and that state’s capital city. Winners get their photo published in the local paper and win a prize, but the festival has more than a century been a focal point of Christmas celebrations in Oaxaca.

Flickr photo by drewleavy

World Bodypainting Festival
The World Bodypainting Festival is an annual festival happens in Austria. The week-long painting fest is the biggest annual event of the body painting culture and community, drawing the best body painting artist teams and models as well as thousands of visitors, from all over the world. The artists compete in many categories from brush and sponge to airbrush and special effects. There is a World Facepainting Award and a special award for special effects face make up. Artists use mostly volunteer male or female models as they wish and female models can go topless if they want.

[Flickr photo by r3dst0rm]

International Bognor Birdman
The International Birdman is a series of two competitions held in West Sussex, England, that have human ‘birdmen’ attempting to fly off the end of a pier into the sea for prize money. The competition brings serious aviators mainly flying hang-gliders and people in costume with little or no actual flying ability, raising money for charity. Initially, there was a prize of £1,000 for anyone who could travel beyond 50 yards but over time that increased to £30,000 for reaching 330 feet.

[Flickr photo by DavidQuick]

But one of the strangest festivals around has to be Thailand’s Face Piercing Festival that we see in this video.


[Flickr photo (top) by roberthuffstutter]

Photo Of The Day: Monks In A Line

There are few visuals more familiar to the Southeast Asian traveler than a line of brightly robed monks passing down a local street. This particular monk image comes to us from the ancient Thai capital of Ayutthaya at the Wat Niwet Thammaprawat courtesy of Flickr user Mark Fischer. I love the bright saffron/orange color of the robes and the repeated pattern of the line of men as they stroll purposefully by.

Taken any great travel photos of your own? Why not add them to our Gadling group on Flickr? We might just pick one of yours as our Photo of the Day.