Red Corner: Lviv Revisited

The accolades keep rolling in. We posted a few months back about the Ukrainian city of Lviv (or Lvov which is the Russian spelling if you prefer that). Since then, the charming town has kept popping up on my radar. Most recently, The LA Times devoted a few pages extolling its fine attributes.

Journalist Barry Zwick kicks off the article with an alluring description that sums up the universality of Lviv: “Baroque pastel Polish-style town houses, gingerbread-trimmed Austrian university halls, heroic Russian statues and distinctively Ukrainian parks.” And then it gets better.

Zwick raves about the excellent food (a rarity in Eastern Europe), the “44 Baroque and Rococo landmarks,” the numerous churches and synagogues, and the city’s status as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Most of all, however, he revels in the $10 front-and-center seats he purchased for a Myroslav Skoryk performance at Ivan Franko Opera House–an amazingly beautiful, Viennese neo-Renaissance building in the center of town.

Damn! This all sounds phenomenal. I need to get myself to Lviv!

Red Corner: Kiev gets Normal Hotel

It has taken a long time, but Europe’s last remaining capital without an “internationally branded” hotel has finally joined the 21st century. Kiev has gotten itself a Radisson!

During communism, the only accommodations available to foreigners were dilapidated state run hotels, many of which lacked basic necessities such as toilet paper. After communism fell and economies began to finally improve, tourism and business prospects were promising enough for major hotel chains to invest in new projects from Moscow to Bulgaria. Even lowly Tirana, capital of the poorest country in Europe, can boast a Sheraton. But this was not the case in Ukraine where high inflation and a corrupt government scared many investors away.

Last September, however, Kiev celebrated the arrival of a 255-room Radisson SAS hotel. Five-star comfort has finally made it across the Ukrainian borders and boy are businessmen happy!

Red Corner: Chernobyl Anniversary

Twenty years ago today, something so horrendous occurred in the Soviet Union that the swath of earth on which it happened, as well as thousands of miles in every direction, remains unlivable even today.

That tragedy was, of course, the Chernobyl disaster. Today marks the 20th anniversary of the world’s worst nuclear accident. For those displaced from their homes, suffering from cancer, and still mourning the loss of family and friends who succumbed to the accident this, is not a happy day.

The Chernobyl accident affected 5 million people and is expected to kill upwards of 9,000 after all the side-effects of radiation poisoning runs its course. The radiation cloud, which swept over much of Europe, has also left a dead zone of 5,800 square miles where no one can live, raise crops, or otherwise exist. Tour groups with Geiger counters in hand are now gingerly exploring the region but only for limited amounts of time and only if the winds are blowing in a safe direction.

A number of commemorative efforts will be held today to honor the “liquidators” who were forcibly sent in to clean up the mess. The commemorations will, of course, be matched by protests against nuclear energy and inadequate financial support for those still suffering from the tragedy.

April 26 remains a black day on this planet no matter what anniversary is being commemorated. When mankind can so easily destroy a small chunk of earth and poison it for thousands of years, we need to all stop and think for a moment; the world really doesn’t need any more liquidators.

Ukraine's Ultimate Dance Party

Well, people, forget Spring Break.  Thanks to Travel & Leisure magazine, I now know where the ultimate
dance beach party is.

It turns out, it’s in the Ukraine.

According to the
article
, this summer the Ukraine hosts a huge beach party, lasting an entire month, in Crimea.  The festival,
called "Kazantip," attracts hundreds of DJs from all over Europe and Russia, ten stages, huge television
screens, not to mention tens of thousands of revelers.  Most of the dancers are young Ukrainians and Russians, but
apparently the event is attracting more and more tourists from around Europe.  By day, most are just hanging around
the beach, but by nightfall?  It’s  alcohol-fuelled bacchanalia, until the break of dawn.

If this
sounds like your kind of party, be sure to visit the official website
This year’s Kazantip will from July 15th, 2006 — August 26th, 2006.

Red Corner: Gogol Bordello Sings Gypsy Punk

Discovering local music while abroad is as much of a joy as discovering local foods. What’s really great about both of these pleasures, however, is that they can also be enjoyed back home.

Friday night I did just that. I went to see a group named Gogol Bordello who bills themselves as the world’s first gypsy punk band. Gypsy punk you ask?!?! Yes indeed.

Well, actually their web page describes them as a “fusion of Gypsy punk and Slavic stomp,” so that should make it clear, I guess. Imagine a fast-paced punk band whose power-chords and manic energy are driven by a frenetic violin and a bouncy accordion. Throw in a supporting cast of Eastern European musicians and a lead vocalist who looks like Frank Zappa with a handlebar moustache and you get a musical hodgepodge unlike anything that has ever existed before. The natural comparison would be a combination of the Gypsy Kings and the Clash but even this comes up horribly short. The musical hybrid is a synergistic explosion far greater than the sum of its parts.

The driving force behind this amazing band is lead vocalist Eugene Hutz. Originally from Ukraine, Hutz has a voice like he has just stuffed a couple of deviled eggs into his mouth after smoking cheap Bulgarian cigars all day. He sings mostly in thickly accented English that often makes it difficult to tell when he switches over to his native Ukrainian. But it is exactly this thick, guttural Slavic-ness that makes the music so powerful-oh, and the fact that Hutz is the most maniacal performer I’ve ever seen. He is a nonstop whirling dervish of limitless energy who prances, kicks, bends and contorts for three hours of nonstop mayhem. Unbelievable!

It’s not every day that Ukrainian gypsy punk rock lands on your doorstep. Since the band is currently touring, check out their website to see if they are invading a town near you. At the very least, download their Start Wearing Purple video from their label’s website. It may not inspire you to visit Ukraine, but it will prompt you to draw the blinds and lock up your children for the night; the crazy Slavs are coming and the musical world will never be the same.