Epic Mountain Biking In The Heart Of Indiana


Indiana might not immediately pop in your mind when you think of great mountain bike destinations, but after riding Brown County State Park, it will.

Located less than an hour south of Indianapolis, Brown County is the crown jewel of Midwestern trail riding. After the International Mountain Bicycling Association bestowed Epic status on the 25-mile trail system in 2011, riders within a day’s drive of the trails began turning up in droves. On a pleasant spring day, riders will spot license plates from as far away as Wisconsin, Tennessee and Missouri.

A torrential rain earlier in the week meant the parking lot was mostly filled with locals when we pulled in Sunday afternoon; no one wants to drive six hours, only to discover the trails are too muddy to ride.

The rain did impact our riding. The trail was mostly perfect, albeit a bit greasy in several spots. Where we were used to a trickle of water at the creek crossings, we pedaled across what seemed to be a river of water. Wet socks and mud-splattered kits couldn’t take our smiles away – but the hills tried.Indiana has a reputation of being flatter than a steamrolled pancake. That’s true in the northern half of the state, where you can see miles of cornfields in every direction. But the southern part of the state is known for its rolling hills. One of the nation’s most popular road rides, the Hilly Hundred – yes, it lives up to its name – is held every October on nearby roads. Inside the park, it’s a single-track rollercoaster; during my last visit, we climbed and descended multiple times, logging more than 2,000 feet of climbing in just over two hours of riding.

Clipping in at the North Gate trailhead just inside the park entrance, we pedal up to Haynes Loop and onto the newest leg of the trail, Green Valley. Green Valley has a definite flowy vibe, almost like a pump track at times. There are more technical trails out there, but few that are more fun.

Heading farther into the park, Hesitation Point looms, with its numerous rock gardens discouraging meeker riders from climbing to the gorgeous vista at the upper trailhead. Located off Hesitation Point are the fast, wide-open Limekiln Trail and the double-black diamond Schooner Trace, which has destroyed more bike frames than rust.

Each trail and trail combination is unique, with its own personality. By altering the direction and order we ride, it’s like we’re on totally different trails. You can easily spend a long weekend at the park and not get bored.

Trailbuilders are currently constructing Hobb’s Hollow, a brand new 3-mile segment of trail that will be jam-packed with bermed turns, step-ups, rock drops and tabletop jumps, along with a 2-mile descent with 360 feet of vertical drop, more than any other trail in the state. Trail advocates hope to build another 12 miles of trail over the next few years, eventually connecting the park’s single track to the nearby Nebo Ridge and Hickory Ridge trails in the Hoosier National Forest, as well as two private trail networks. With luck, in a few years riders will have more than 100 miles of connected, rideable terrain. When that day comes, IMBA might have to come up with an even more epic trail designation.

Descending back to the trailhead, our massive group splintered into twos and threes, the front rider trying to shake the others off his or her tail. To my rear, I hear Janet Sherman – five months pregnant and apparently riding with the strength of two bikers – taunting me. “Rob, are you going to rail this or what?” The implication being that unless I sped up, I had better get out of her way. I accept the challenge and bomb down the hill, fighting every instinct to squeeze my brake levers. Picking up momentum, the bumps on the trail launched me into the air for a few exhilarating moments, before touching back down onto terra firma. As I successfully steered through each successive turn, my timidness at descending gave way to the sheer joy of speed.

As we roll into the parking lot after our all-too-brief ride, more cars are pulling into the lot. We’re all smiling, our blood filled with adrenaline, endorphins and, after a spill or two, more than a little dirt. We all want to do another lap, but we have family responsibilities – baby sitters to pay, lawns to mow, beers to drink. As our cars head north out of the park, we’re already planning our trip back.

Want to ride Brown County State Park? It’s located on Ind. 46 East, less than an hour south of Indianapolis, off the No. 68 exit of I-65. Park entry is $5 per carload for Indiana residents, $7 for cars with out of state plates. Camping is available at the camp or you can stay at the full-service lodge inside the park. Rates start at $10 for primitive camping, $77 for the lodge. You can get by with most types of mountain bikes – I ride a dual-suspension Giant 29er, and my teammates run the gamut of a rigid 650b chromoly and 26-inch aluminum bikes. Just be sure to wear a helmet.

[Video Credit: Rob Annis]

5 Unfinished Landmarks Worth A Visit



Many travelers associate cities, and even countries, with their iconic landmarks, like New York City with the Statue of Liberty, Paris with the Eiffel Tower and Pisa with its famous Leaning Tower. But what about those famous landmarks that never quite made it to completion?

We’ve rounded up five great places around the world where you’ll find “nearly famous” monuments worth visiting.

Barcelona, Spain: La Sagrada Familia

Still under construction after more than a century, The Temple Expiatori de la Sagrada Familia, which translates to Expiatory Temple of the Holy Family (see image above), is one of the most visited monuments in the country, with nearly 3 million visitors each year. Scheduled for completion sometime between 2026 and 2028 (as a best guess, anyway), the tower and cathedral was visited by Pope Benedict XVI in 2010.


Edinburgh, Scotland: National Monument of Scotland

Construction began in 1826 on this memorial to honor Scottish soldiers who died during the Napoleonic Wars. Located on the top of Calton Hill, the monument was modeled after the Parthenon in Athens, but, due to lack of funding, was left unfinished. Today, the monument is nicknamed everything from “Scotland’s Disgrace,” to “Edinburgh’s Folly.”

Chiapas, Mexico: Tonina Maya Ruins
Between the fourth century and 900 A.D., this area was a bustling mecca of construction and today still serves as a major tourist attraction; however, construction stopped suddenly in the year 909. Visitors today can tour a museum and see many gruesome depictions of how the Mayans dealt with their enemies. (Ed. Note, 4/24: Please note that the ruins pictured above are in Palenque, another Mayan site.)


Bavaria, Germany: Neuschwanstein Castle
The model for Sleeping Beauty’s castle at Disneyland was commissioned by Ludwig II of Bavaria for Richard Wagner, but the king died in 1886 before the castle was completed. It was opened to the public afterwards and has become a major tourist attraction for the region, with more than 1.3 million people visiting annually.



South Dakota, USA: Crazy Horse
Built in response to Mt. Rushmore, this memorial to Lakota leader Crazy Horse is the world’s largest mountain sculpture. Carving began in 1948 and has been continually delayed due to lack of funds and refusal to accept government backing. Yet, it’s surrounded by a museum and welcomes bus tours and more than one million visitors per year.

[Image Credit: Ulf Liljankoski, Ben Christian Photos, Archer10, Nite Dan, JJSchad]

On The Road With NPR Music: Chris Campbell At WDET, Detroit, Michigan

Beyond travel, we’re also big music fans here at Gadling; largely because music is a great way to get to know a place. This month happens to be Public Radio Music Month and we’re teaming up with NPR to bring you exclusive interviews from NPR music specialists around the country. We’ll be learning about local music culture and up and coming new regional artists, so be sure to follow along all month.

Today we’re checking out the scene in Detroit, and local host Chris Campbell has his finger on the pulse of all that’s progressive and underground. His playlist that he made exclusively for Gadling is full of tracks you’ve probably never heard, but certainly won’t be able to stop listening to. If you think Detroit is just a rap scene as depicted in “8 Mile,” think again.

Name: Chris Campbell

Member station: 101.9 FM WDET

Regular Show/Contribution BeatThe Progressive Underground w/Chris Campbell


1. When people think of music in Detroit, what do they think of?

Generally speaking, people think of Motown Records, but Detroit also has a vibrant techno/electronic music scene (it’s the birthplace of techno music) in addition to a burgeoning progressive hip hop and R&B scene as well. The electronic, future soul and progressive hip hop genres are the scenes that we tend to focus on during our show broadcasts.

2. How do you help curate the Detroit musical scene?

I curate the electronic music scene through artist/DJ spotlights, atmospheric mix segments and artist interviews, which are also posted through various media networks (WDET website, Sound Cloud, etc).

3. How has that scene evolved over the last few decades?

The electronic scene has had a curious evolution. It started out very strong back in the 1980s locally, but became a genre that was more cherished overseas – especially in the UK and Japan. Many artists who are looking to become even more established still focus on touring overseas, but there has been a concerted effort made to play/tour the home market and build up the scene locally.

4. What would you say is the most unique thing about your music scene?

The most unique thing – in my mind – is that the electronic scene is full of diversity, variance and a myriad number of styles. Stylistically, electronic encompasses subgenres such as deep house, chill, chill wave, down tempo, and future soul. It is a genre that is seeing a “boon” in the number of artists who are embracing it.

5. What are three new up and coming bands on the Detroit scene right now and what makes them distinct?

Tall Black Guy – Terrell Wallace aka Tall Black Guy is a Detroit artist/producer whose music spans a wide spectrum of electronic. We have currently been playing his album “The Brazilian Chronicles,” which is electronic music that is inspired by the history and music of Brazil. His uniqueness is displayed in his production work – groovy orchestral flourishes set on top of multi-layered rhythm patterns. He is truly a producer that approaches his electronic music with a sense of musical virtuosity.

Inohs Sivad – Inohs Sivad is singer/songwriter/producer/composer, who exemplifies the emerging future soul genre. Her music combines some of the foundational elements of classic soul (strong lyricism/writing) with some of the staples of progressive and future soul arrangements (organic and elemental sound textures).

Leaf Erikson – Artist/wordsmith Vernon Greenleaf aka Leaf Erikson is an artist who is on Detroit’s famed underground Butter Made record label. He has shared the stage with many regional and national figures and what makes his music exceptional is the merger of the melodic production with his sense of communal awareness and lyrical substance.

6. For a Gadling playlist, what are your favorite tracks?

The last four are not Detroit artists, but they are artists that we have broken in the Detroit market and ones that we play heavily.

“O Fim De Viagem” – Tall Black Guy

“Brown Suga” – Swiftus Funkellwerk

“Moving On” – Rick Wade

“Somewhere Else” – Inohs Sivad feat. Diamondancer

“Artificial” – Leaf Erikson

“Midnight” – Candace Nicole

“So Blue & Green” – Cecilia Stalin

“Listeriosis” – BadBadNotGood

“See With Me” – Jesse Boykins III

“Play With Me” – Princess Freesia

Listen to the complete playlist on Spotify.

Join Gadling At The New York Travel Festival This Weekend

When Roni Weiss cornered me at the AOL offices a few years ago to pitch the concept of a new travel conference I had my doubts. We have travel conferences. We have travel societies, Facebook groups, Twitter wars and blog chats. We need to travel more, chat less and improve the conferences that we already have, I suggested.

I stand by that assertion. But I also think that there’s space to grow in an industry that’s starting to diverge. I’m told that the Travel Festival this weekend is more about the appreciation and inspiration of travel and writing versus the abject pandering for sponsorships or freebies. I think that there’s definitely room to grown in that realm.

And some pretty great people are coming out in support. In addition to the panel that I’m on with Ross Borden from Matador and Joe Diaz from Afar, Matt Gross (the formal Frugal Traveler), Matt Kepnes (ie, Nomadic Matt), David Farley, Andrew Evans (National Geographic’s Digital Nomad) and Robert Reid (Lonely Planet) will all be there, along with a handful of other really great travel people in the community. These are people that have written the guidebooks, edited the stories and survived the battles of the travel industry over the last few decades. I’m sure they have plenty of insight to give.

In case you’re interested, several Gadling folk will be there including Mr. Farley, above. David will be speaking on the Czech Republic and announcing winners of the writing contest at noon, while Ross, Joe and I will be speaking on new media strategies. I’m pretty sure that there will be drinks somewhere in that equation as well.

Come on out and join us. The festival runs over multiple days and you can find more info here.

Following the Beat in Nashville

As you might expect, country music provides the soundtrack for daily life in Nashville. I didn’t catch the Honky Tonk Blues in the Music Capitol of the World, but like the great Hank Williams, I did spend my fair share of time Howling at the Moon.

Up-and-coming musicians — as well as those who never quite made it — play for tips at many of the Broadway music clubs. When I’m in town, I siddle up to the bar at Layla’s Bluegrass Inn, plop down a buck for a can of PBR and enjoy some of the best old-school country on the main drag. If you’re feeling peckish, slide a couple of doors down and grab the Recession Special at Robert’s Western World, a fried bologna sandwich, chips and a PBR for $5. While at Robert’s, the lone guitarist on stage shouted out the bar’s manifesto.

“I don’t want to play no Kenny Chesney or Keith Urban,” the guitarist said before launching into a hillbilly-swing cover of Johnny Cash’s Big River. “Robert’s is about traditional country; that’s why I’m playing here.”

If your tastes veer more Eric Church than Merle Haggard, the Tequila Cowboy and the Wild Horse Saloon are two popular options you might enjoy. If country music isn’t your bag, the Mercy Lounge, Cannery Ballroom and The High Watt host most of the indie-rock bands that pass through the area.

Many tourists never venture far from the Ryman Auditorium or Country Music Hall of Fame, which is a shame because there’s so much more to the city than cheesy commemorative plates and Nashville-emblazoned fly swatters. Your two best options are about three miles to the south and to the east. East Nashville and12 South are two cool, locals-only neighborhoods in Nashville where the residents seek refuge from the interlopers in brand-new cowboy boots and Hard Rock Café T-shirts.Finishing up my beer at Fat Bottom Brewery, I asked our magnificently mustachioed bartender Leon where we could see some live music in East Nashville. He suggested not wasting our time.

“This is where all the local musicians live,” Leon said. “No one plays here. It’s like the chef who doesn’t want to cook when he gets home.”

Luckily there are plenty of things to do outside of a darkened honky tonk. Start off your day with a steaming cup of coffee at one of the three best places I sampled, Ugly Mugs, Bongo Java and the Frothy Monkey. The coffee tasted remarkably similar, but with good reason; all three use locally roasted beans from Drew’s Brews. Ugly Mugs is the more upscale and modern looking of the three, while Bongo Java and the Frothy Monkey both have a more bohemian neighborhood vibe based on their mismatched wooden furniture and number of employees with tattooed arm sleeves. I made the mistake of having a stale, cellophane-wrapped cinnamon roll at my hotel’s continental breakfast. Had I waited, I could have feasted on the fresh, locally baked pastries at the Frothy Monkey or indulged in one of their incredible smelling sausage omelets, made with farm fresh ingredients.

One of the most surprising aspects of the local food scene is how much local restaurants rely on fresh, locally sourced produce and meat. From Local Taco to the 12 South Taproom, nearly every restaurant brags about the nearby farms where their food comes from. The difference is apparent after the first bite touches your tongue. As I popped the last bit of my Fat Bottom cheeseburger in my mouth, I immediately regretted it, knowing I might never have a sandwich that delicious again.

If you’re looking for a taste of the east coast in Nashville, Five Points Pizza is the best thin-crust New York pizza joint I’ve sampled outside the Eastern Time Zone. During my visit, I gorged myself on a mammoth slice topped with sausage, roaster pepper, spinach, mozzarella and garlic and washed it down with one of several local microbrews on tap.

If you must have some processed meats, hit the Weenery in East Nashville, which sells hot dogs out of shack that looks like a Volkswagon bus drove through it.

For dessert, you can’t go wrong with a popsicle from Los Palentos in 12 South. The locally made frozen treats are made with real fruit. On a hot summer day, expect to see a line.

After you’ve stuffed your stomach, it’s time to stuff your shopping bags. I’m not a big clothes-hound, as you can tell from my vast collection of concert T-shirts and black hoodies, but I do love me a good western shirt. The best selection of new, vintage and one-of-a-kind cowboy garb can be found at Katy K Designs at Ranch Dressing. I still regret not pulling the trigger on a gorgeous white shirt with gold musical notes and piping. At $130, it was a bit pricey, but probably worth it. On the bright side, it gives me another reason to go back. I didn’t go away empty-handed though, snagging a used pearl-snap Dickies shirt for $10.

If you’ve never been able to find a pair of jeans that fit you just right, you’ve never been to Imogene + Willie. Their custom denim pants have won nationwide acclaim from the New York Times and other publications. But beware: Perfection comes at a high cost. Expect to pay $250 or more for your tailored dungarees.

If you’re at all musically inclined, my good friend Chrysa Malosh suggests visiting Fanny’s House of Music, a cool independent shop in East Nashville that sells instruments, vintage clothes and more.

Photos by Rob Annis