Budget Edinburgh: Navigating Scotland’s capital on a shoestring

by Grant Martin on

Great Britain isn’t at the top of many budget travelers’ lists due to the sheer insanity of the exchange rate. Today’s dollar gets the American traveler only 0.62 pounds, and for those working on a ramen and couch-surfing budget, that unfavorable ratio can cause a great deal of hardship.

With that said, Scotland and Edinburgh are a world away from the star studded and action packed streets of London, and that inflated sex appeal down south only makes things cheaper in the sleepy north. Like one can take a dollar further in rural Arkansas against urban New York, there are plenty of ways to stretch a wayward pound sterling in Edinburgh, and here at Gadling Labs we’d like to show you just how. Let’s get started.

Getting Around
In general, downtown Edinburgh is a very walkable region. One can navigate from the high end shops on George street in New Town over the Queen’s Gardens and into Old Town in a healthy fifteen minutes, and there’s plenty to see between the two waypoints.

If need be, however, a comprehensive series of buses criss-cross the city, and it seems that there is always a stop within a stone’s throw of your downtown destination. A ride on the Lothian buses, which are the predominant carrier in the city, will cost £1.30 while a day pass with unlimited rides will only set you back £3.20. It’s also possible to get multi day passes (which include airport buses) for £25.Those same coaches reach the airport as well, though for that transit it’s best to take one of the express, blue buses right outside of the main terminal. Passage on these coaches only costs £3.50 and provides a quick, 30 minute journey from the airport into the central, Waverly Station.

Dining
There is no shortage of inexpensive eats in the city of Edinburgh, and a wide spectrum outside of simple pub fare should await any traveler keen to dine on a bit of spare pocket change.

As with the rest of the United Kingdom, fish and chip shops and shawarma stands are scattered throughout the city, many centered around late night haunts or adjacent to student areas. Here, four to six pounds can get you a healthy dose of battered cod and chips or several varieties of Middle Eastern fare, and though not an epicurean adventure you’ll get a full stomach for a reasonable price.

Earlier in the day, Hanover and Rose streets are also home to a deeper variety of inexpensive, delicious fare. One’s best bet is to plant oneself on Hanover between Queen and Thistle or on Rose between Hanover and Frederick and then spin in a circle – there’s enough selection here to cater to nearly any palette, and like the food court in any urban mall it may be useful to divide and conquer.

Particularly outstanding among the batch of Hanover restaurants are The Dogs (110 Hanover) and Amore Dogs (104 Hanover), two spots dedicated to sourcing local, organic ingredients, building classic, inexpensive dishes and positioning them in a modern, warm setting. Dishes range in price up to about £12 and the restaurants are almost always packed, so call ahead for a reservation. Seadogs (43 Rose), a sister restaurant with a seafood spin (Get it?) is also a great pick over on Rose.

Another option on Hanover street is the Urban Cafe (121 Hanover). Despite being on the lower floor of a three story building, the space is well-lit and cleanly appointed, serving a delicious array of tapas (none more than £3.50) and light fare for nothing more than £12.

In a worst case scenario, however, most pubs will be able to put together a decent meal of jacket potatoes or fish and chips. Like the Americans have perfected frozen yogurt and fast food burgers, Scots are excellent at delivering solid pub food, and short of chancing upon a high-market gastropub, one should be able to get in and out with a meal for under £10. Just stay away from the Royal Mile and Prince Street and you won’t pay too hefty of a price.

Make sure you also keep the cooking-at-home option in mind, especially if you’re staying at a vacation rental or on a couch. The farmer’s markets and local grocers provide the best venue for sourcing one’s own fare, with Edinburgh’s farmer’s market taking the award for the most picturesque market in the hemisphere.

Accommodation
The basic budget strategies key in any destination around the world hold well for Edinburgh. Like in Barcelona or in Los Angeles, renting an apartment can be an excellent way to conserve costs on both accommodation and dining, and both VRBO and airbnb have numerous properties available at very reasonable prices.
Beyond the obvious recommendations to rent an apartment or couchsurf your way to budget lodging, several specific facets of Edinburgh’s thrifty hotel scene are worth mention.

The city has plenty of hostel options, from Smart City Hostels (65 Cockburn) to Castle Rock (15 Johnston Terrace). Many of the hostels along the Grassmarket corridor are well-accessible to the city, and late in the evening the streets around the area liven up with backpacking folk spinning in circles and bouncing between bars. It’s not rowdy in the Khosan Road sense of things, but if you’re looking for a quiet, introspective journey, then you may want to book a single room or find another area.

In the midrange, hundreds of hotels are scattered around central Edinburgh, so there should be no shortage of options in the sub $200 range. Among Tripadvisor’s top 30 hotels in the region, 17 have rates that dip into the high $100s, while 9 can dip lower than $150.

On the “affordable luxury” end of the spectrum, make sure to check out the Hotel du Vin and Bistro (11 Bristo Place) on the edge of the old city, where luxury intersects with good design and palatable prices. At publication, rates were as low as $400, but during shoulder and low season those prices should drop.

Another great resource for budget Edinburgh lodging is through Eurocheapo’s portal. The New York-based team has an excellent cross section of inexpensive properties on their site with reviews and pictures to boot.

Summary
Finally, make sure to set up your money conversions strategy properly before heading into the United Kingdom. Money changers and local conversions are going to take a huge percentage of your transaction, so get an international fee-free card and withdraw money from the ATM to get the best rate — with the conversion so low, you need to save every penny that you can.

BBC World Service receives millions to increase Arabic broadcasts, save Hindi broadcasts

by Sean McLachlan on

The BBC World Service is getting a funding increase to the tune of £2.2 million ($3.6 million) per year over the next three years.

This comes after the government broadcaster’s funds were slashed last year, forcing it to announce the cancellation of 5 of its 32 language broadcasts and reduced service on others.

The money will go to boost the Arabic language programs. An additional £9 million ($14.6 million) is being reallocated to save the Hindi shortwave service, which was slated to be shut down.

The Arabic language service is getting more attention both from the UK government and people in the region because of the ongoing unrest there. The Hindi service also has a huge number of listeners.

The BBC World Service broadcasts on TV, mobile, and online, but in many regions its shortwave broadcasts are still crucial. While listening to shortwave may seem old fashioned, in many Middle Eastern countries the Internet is censored or gets shut off completely during times of unrest. Also, many people in the developing world have a shortwave radio, but little access to the Internet.

St. Paul’s Cathedral in London finishes 15-year restoration

by Sean McLachlan on

After fifteen years and £40 million ($65 million), a massive restoration of St. Paul’s Cathedral in London is finally finished.

The timing is perfect because it coincides with the 300th anniversary of the cathedral’s original completion.

Much of the restoration was actually a cleaning to get years of accumulated soot and grime off the structure. This dirt is acidic and can damage the fine white stone, as has happened at many historical buildings. Architectural details and interior decoration were repaired and restored to their original luster.

Located at the end of the Millennium Bridge on the north bank of the Thames, St. Paul’s is one of London’s greatest landmarks. A church has stood here since 604 AD, a time when much of England was still pagan, and this spot has remained spiritually important for Londoners ever since. A later version of the church burnt down in the Great Fire of 1666. Christopher Wren, the leading English architect of his day, was commissioned to rebuild it and made it his masterpiece.

A complete visit takes at least two hours, preferably three. One highlight is the Golden Gallery atop the dome, reached by climbing 530 steps. I think the view from here is the best in London. While the London Eye is taller, St. Paul’s is in the middle of the historic heart of London and so the view from here is more interesting.

The crypt holds the remains of many famous people such as William Blake, John Constable, and of course Christopher Wren. In his later years he used to sit in St. Paul’s and admire his masterpiece. His grave is marked by a simple plaque that reads in Latin, “Beneath lies buried the founder of this church and city, Christopher Wren, who lived more than 90 years, not for himself but for the public good. Reader, if you seek his monument, look around you,”

To celebrate the remodel, St. Paul’s is hosting a photo competition. Take a shot of the exterior of the shiny new/old building and you could see your work displayed in one of London’s most visited buildings.

[Image courtesy user Diliff via Wikimedia Commons]

Roman bath discovered in York

by Sean McLachlan on


The remains of a Roman bath have been discovered in York in northern England.

Archaeologists made the find while excavating ahead of construction of the new City of York Council Headquarters. York (then called Eboracum) was an important trading center in Roman times. So important, in fact, that it had more than one bath. The image above is from the basement of the Roman Bath pub, where a small museum shows off the remains of another bath.

Based on coins and pottery found at the site, the newly discovered bath dates from the late second and early third centuries AD. The site will be open to the public for free this weekend.

Unlike many Roman cities, York continued to be important mercantile and religious center in the later Anglo-Saxon and Viking periods. The Yorkshire Museum exhibits a huge collection of Viking artifacts from an earlier excavation.

Public bathhouses were very popular in Roman culture. They included cold, warm, and hot pools and places for relaxation and socializing. The best preserved example is at the appropriately named city of Bath, an easy day trip from London.

Five reasons I’m insanely jealous of Michael O’Leary

by Tom Johansmeyer on

I am jealous of Michael O’Leary. Very. The CEO of super-low-rent European discounter Ryanair, O’Leary has developed a reputation. He’s loud. He says what’s on his mind. He really doesn’t care what you think about him. He’s probably broken every rule of public relations and investor relations. I’ve been with Gadling since December 2008, and O’Leary has been a great source of posts every step of the way.

So, he’s the CEO and he can say what he wants. This isn’t really how it works: most CEOs have plenty of people telling them what to say and when to shut up. This is why O’Leary has it made.

And now it’s time for my confession: five reasons I’m jealous of Michael O’Leary, CEO of Ryanair:

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1. He’s the CEO: hey, that means something to me. I wouldn’t mind being the top dog. O’Leary brings in a good living every year, and he gets to call the shots. The latter likely results from the fact that he does the former well.

2. He really does speak his mind: whether it’s demanding that the government tax someone else or coming to the defense of a stewardess moonlighting as a porn star, O’Leary has a position on everything. And, he’s more than happy to share it publicly. Of course, bloggers have fallen into his crosshairs a few times.

3. He’s a product development genius: how many CEOs have actually suggested bundling blowjobs with their products? Or, at the other end of the spectrum, how many have suggested that their customers pay for restroom access? If I could come up with stuff like that, my days at Gadling would be nothing more than a memory.

4. He’s old school: executives tend to reprimand or even fire employees. But banishment? That’s hard core. That’s where O’Leary truly shines. Of course, it starts with an O’Leary stunt, in which he suggests that copilots could be replaced with stewardesses. Well, a pilot offended by this notion suggested that O’Leary could be replaced with a ‘probationary cabin crew member currently earning €13,200 a year.'” Don’t tangle with the master: O’Leary shipped this pilot off to Lithuania! It’s not exactly Siberia, but it sure as hell isn’t the Portugal/Spain/Italy the pilot wanted. And, “Kaunas is considered Siberia for Ryanair pilots.”

5. He’s just that good: remember all those whining airline execs were complaining about their businesses during the global financial crisis? Well, O’Leary wasn’t one of them. He actually kept Ryanair profitable during that hellish period. And now, he doesn’t mind taking potshots at his competitors during his quarterly earnings calls!