On the trail of the Kalahari bushmen

A few days back we posted about 18 unique travel experiences that even the seasoned traveler would find interesting. One of the suggestions on that list was to travel to the Kalahari Desert to stay with bushmen and partake in an initiation hunt with the tribes that still wander the remote regions of southern Africa.

Recently, travel writer Sally Emerson journeyed to Botswana to go in search of the bushmen herself. She wrote about her adventures for the Times Online, as she explored the Okavango Delta and the Kalahari, following in the footsteps of author Laurens Van der Post, who published The Lost World of the Kalahari back in 1956. The book has become one of the seminal works on the bushmen and their culture.

Both Emerson, and Van der Post before her, were searching for the San Bushmen, one of five distinct tribes that are spread out across South Africa, Zimbabwe, Mozambique, Namibia, Angola, and Botswana. Today, it is believed that less than 100,000 of the bushmen remain, but those that do, maintain close ties to their culture, and the land on which they live.

Emerson says that the bushmen that she met were able to teach her about the plants and animals of the Kalahari while showing her how to set traps and hunt as well. They displayed a deep understanding of what their surroundings could provide for them, allowing them to survive for extended periods of time in the desert. Many of the tribesmen are now guides, and are eager to share their history and culture with visitors from the rest of the world. Traveling to the Kalahari to spend some time with these guides would indeed makre for a unique and amazing travel experience.

A visit to Victoria Falls

Back in 1855, Scottish explorer David Livingstone was nearing the end of his exploration of the Zambezi River when he came across a sight that was quite unexpected at the time. For days he had heard from the local tribes about a great water fall that lay ahead on his journey, but because the region he was traveling through had no mountains, valleys, or plateaus, he found no reason to believe the reports. That is until he came face to face with the most magnificent and beautiful sight he had ever seen, the 360 foot tall waterfall that he would name Victoria Falls in honor of Queen Victoria of England.

Today, the Falls remain one of the top tourist draws for Zambia, with thousands flocking to the country every year to make the journey to see Livinstone’s wonderous discovery. Victoria Falls is the biggest waterfall in the world, stretching nearly a mile in width, and when combined with its impressive height, it forms the largest sheet of water anywhere in the world.

Recently, David Abel of the Boston Globe, made the journey for himself, and returned to share his experiences with the rest of us. While he was there, Abel discovered first hand why the Zambians call the falls Mosi-oa-Tunya or “the smoke that thunders” when he finally looked upon the falls that measure twice the height of Niagra.

From there, he moved on to the five-star, $900 per night, Royal Livingstone Hotel, where he enjoyed crumpets and tea while monkeys played in the trees overhead. The adventure didn’t stop there however, as he followed it up with other wildlife encounters and an exciting ride down the Zambizi River through Class V rapids.

Clearly Zambia has a lot to offer the adventurous traveler, and it extends beyond just the falls. But a chance to walk in the Livingstones footsteps sounds too goo to be true, and yet 150 years after the famous explorer visited the region, we’re still going back for more.

The scariest swimming pool EVER

Acrophobia is described as an uncontrollable, irrational, and often crippling fear of heights. I’m not sure if this concept has an opposite — acrophilia, maybe? Love of heights? — but that’s how I’d describe anyone brave (crazy?) enough to go for a dip at the Devil’s Pool.

The Devil’s Pool is a natural swimming hole surrounded by just-below-the-surface rocks at the top of Africa’s Victoria Falls, right at the edge of the 108-meter falls on the Zambezi River. When I say right at the edge, I don’t mean near the edge, or sort of close to the falls, or in the grass next to the falls — I mean it is on the edge of the falls.

Just looking at pictures of the tourists who’ve gone there makes me a bit light headed. I know myself well enough to know that I could never, ever get in that water — but the photos from those braver than I are absolutely stunning. No, these aren’t photoshopped. It’s allegedly very safe, but I can’t help but think that those who scoot out over the edge for a once-in-a-lifetime photograph are really pushing their luck.

Are you brave enough to dive in?
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Bad idea bear: Roadtrippin’ through Zimbabwe

Would you give up Christmas, New Year’s, and three weeks of your winter vacation to travel to a country wracked by every malady you can think of–economic collapse, political turmoil, widespread starvation, etc?

Yep, I’m talking about Zimbabwe, which has paradoxically been skyrocketing towards the top of my must-visit list. What’ll be particularly jarring is that I’m flying in from a 12-hr layover in Madrid and arrival in Johannesburg. I just might not want to leave either places.

Anyways, our resident Lonely Planet writer, Matt Firestone, tells me that there’s no travel guides on Zimbabwe, or at least one that has been updated in the last 7-8 years. So add that to the above list of why this whole trip will be quite an adventure. Oh, and we’re planning (as of now, when we’re still giddy by the novelty of the idea and not say, shaking in fear) to drive in by car or motorcycle!

Zimbabwe residents turn to gasoline as currency

Tired of carrying around stacks of $50-million-dollar bills to pay for their groceries, Zimbabweans are turning to gasoline vouchers as substitutes for their hyperinflating currency.

Because the government of Zimbabwe will not allow transactions to take place in US dollars, people and businesses are finding other things of value to trade for goods and services. Gasoline vouchers, scarce food, and old coins, which have recently been revalued, are all being traded instead of the Zimbabwean dollar, which now has an inflation rate of about 50 million percent.

To illustrate how bad the inflation is, restaurant owners have been tacking on an extra 80% to the bill of customers who pay by check. That’s the amount needed to compensate for the inflation that will take before the check clears– about five days.

More here.

[HT: Chris Blattman’s Blog]