Big in Africa: How to track gorillas in the wild

by Matthew Firestone on

This month, Big in Japan is on vacation in Africa, and will be bringing you travel news and happenings from around this often misunderstood continent.

Africa abounds with unparalleled wildlife experiences, though few can compare with the experience of staring down a mountain gorilla, especially if it happens to be a male silverback. While these gentle giants have been habituated to human visitors, they are nevertheless a formidable sight in the wild.

Mountain gorillas are largely confined to three national parks spanning three countries: Parq National des Volcans in Rwanda, Bwindi Impenetrable Forest in Uganda and Parq National des Virungas in the Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC).

However, before you can have a true ‘Gorillas in the Mist’ experience, you’re going to need to jump through all sorts of administrative hurdles, and obtain the necessary tracking permits. While this isn’t exactly the most straightforward process, today’s post should hopefully help you get started.

Gorilla tracking in East Africa is highly regulated, and you must obtain a permit before setting out. In Rwanda, Uganda and DRC, a permit costs a whopping US$500, though this money is used to protect gorillas from poaching. Indeed, populations were brought to the brink of extinction before conservation efforts were stepped up in recent decades.

The most famous place to track gorillas in the wild is Parq National des Volcans in Rwanda, which was made famous by Dian Fossey. The organization responsible for issuing permits is ORTPN, though confirmed bookings must be made months in advance, particularly if you’re planning on visiting Rwanda in the summer months.

Unfortunately, it isn’t always easy to deal with ORTPN by e-mail, though there are plenty of tour operators in East Africa that can help you secure permits. And of course, you can always show up in Kigali and hope for a last minute cancellation, though you’re going to need a little patience and a whole lot of luck as only 56 permits are issued per day.

Once you arrive in Rwanda, you will need to register with the park headquarters in Kinigi at 7am on the day your permit is valid. After being assigned a guide and a group, you will then track the gorillas through the montane forest, and spend exactly one hour observing the largest apes on the planet.

A worthwhile contender to Parq National des Volcans is the awesomely named Bwindi Impenetrable Forest in Uganda. Following the highly publicized murder of several tourists in 1999, gorilla tracking reservations plummeted, though today the national park is back on the tourist map thanks to improved security.

The Ugandan version of ORTPN is called UWA, and similar procedures are in place for obtaining permits. Again, it is necessary to book several months in advance either through UWA or a tour operator, unless of course you’re not adverse to waiting it out in Kampala. And again, once you arrive in Uganda, you will need to register at the park headquarters at 8am on the day your permit is valid.

If you’re having problems getting permits for Rwanda or Uganda, you can always head to Parq National des Virungas in DRC, and do your best to differentiate the park officials from rebel fighters (the difference isn’t as obvious as you’d imagine). With that said, the Democratic Republic of Congo isn’t a democracy, it’s hardly a republic, but it certainly is the Congo!

One that note, be safe, and let us know how it goes…

** All images were taken by the author in Parq National des Volcans, Rwanda **

Big in Africa: Spotlight on Rwanda

by Matthew Firestone on

This month, Big in Japan is on vacation in Africa, and will be bringing you travel news and happenings from around this often misunderstood continent.

Although Africa is usually viewed in the West as a singular entity, the continent is incredibly varied. From the Saharan desert and the Sahel to equatorial rainforests and acacia-lined plains, Africa offers up an impressive amount of biodiversity.

While most first-timers on the continent choose to safari in classic destinations such as Kenya and South Africa, there is one tiny country that is turning heads in ecotourism circles. Bordering Tanzania, Uganda, Burundi and the Democratic Republic of the Congo (DRC), Rwanda is emerging as one of the continent’s top attractions.

Whether you trek along the Congolese border in search of rare mountain gorillas, or unwind with a passion fruit cocktail on the sandy shores of Lake Kivu, Rwanda is a remarkable tourist destination that deserves its share of the spotlight.

Mention Rwanda to just about anyone with the smallest measure of geopolitical conscious, and they’ll no doubt recall images of the horrific genocide that brutalized this tiny country in 1994. In the span of just 100 days, an estimated one million Tutsis and moderate Hutus were systematically butchered by the Interhamwe militas.

While the scars still run deep, Rwanda has done a remarkable job of healing its wounds and turning towards the future. The government has eliminated the very mention of tribes, and rallied the country under the common Rwandan identity. And, in order to help stimulate its developing economy, the country is protecting its most vital natural resource – the mountain gorilla.

A string of volcanoes run along the Congolese border, forming the backbone of the world famous Parq National des Volcans, the national park where Dian Fossey wrote Gorillas in the Mist. Here, seven groups of mountain gorillas inhabit the montane forests along the slopes of the volcanoes.

Since 1999, tourists have been once again allowed to track these rare primates, and a face-to-face encounter with a silverback in the wild is easily one of the highlights of any trip to Africa. If you want to learn how to obtain a highly coveted tracking permit, check out tomorrow’s column of Big in Africa.

Parq National des Volcans is also home to the endangered golden monkey, while Nyuwenge Forest in the southeast contains chimpanzees and enormous troops of colobus monkeys. Of course, Rwanda isn’t just monkey business – Gisenyi on the shores of Lake Kivu is a relaxed and low-key resort town, while increasingly cosmopolitan Kigali is one of the most beautiful capitals in East Africa.

Rwanda is also home to a number of genocide memorials, which offer perspective on the past rather than accusations. The Kigali Memorial Centre in the Kigali suburb of Kisozi is a poignant and heart-wrenching testimonial that catalogs the tremendous human sacrifice paid by Rwandans.

Perhaps Apollon Katahizi said it best: “When they said ‘never again’ after the holocaust, was it meant for some peope and not for others.”

If you find yourself in East Africa, be sure to spend your tourist dollars in Rwanda – the country needs it.

Big in Africa: 20 Reasons why African wildlife is awesome

by Matthew Firestone on

This month, Big in Japan is on vacation in East Africa, and will be bringing you travel news and happenings from around this often misunderstood continent.

African wildlife is awesome.
Here are 20 reasons why:

A single bite from a black mamba, the largest venomous snake on the African continent, has enough toxicity to kill twenty to forty fully-grown men.

A cheetah in pursuit of its prey can reach speeds of nearly 70 miles per hour, and can leap distances of more than 20 feet.

Impalas on the run however can leap 10 feet into the air, and cover distances of 35 feet in a single bound.

Female hyenas boast elongated clitorises that can reach lengths of nearly eight inches – these appendages even have foreskins and scrotum-like fibrous tissue.

Male vervet monkeys develop a turquoise scrotum and scarlet penis once they hit puberty – the brighter the better, at least in the eyes of prospective mates.

Flamingo tongues were considered to be a prized delicacy amongst elite gourmands and nobility in ancient Rome.

Keep reading as this list goes on…

Although male lions are fierce protectors of their territory, female lions are the ones that actually do all the hunting and child-raising.

It’s good to be an alpha male – the chimp at the top of the social ladder gets unbridled sexual access to all of the females around him.

Africa’s largest flying bird is the kori bustard, which can take to the air despite tipping the scales at nearly 40 pounds.

The terrifying reptile that is the Gaboon viper has 5 centimeter-long fangs, the longest of any snake on the planet.

Crocodiles can close their jaws with several tons of pressure per square inch, though their prey usually dies from drowning during the aptly named ”death roll.”

A raptor cruising the thermals can spot a single grasshopper at 300 feet and a prancing hare at more than 1000 feet.

A single ostrich egg can weigh more than 20 pounds, an amazing feat considering that the largest ever recorded nest contained no less than 78 eggs.

Although Hollywood images might have you believe otherwise, gorillas are in fact almost exclusively vegetarian.

It’s a cat eat dog world – hungry leopards have been known to take down a wild dog.

Aardwolves mark their territory by smearing secretions from their anal glands on just about everything they pass.

Anal secretions from the African civet however smell like flowers, and are harvested in Ethiopia for making perfumes.

A pelican’s somewhat disproportional pouch can scoop up more than 3 gallons of water in a single swipe.

An ostrich can kill a lion in a single kick – their inner claws contain razor-sharp 3 inch spines that can disembowel pretty much anything in their path.

And finally…

After doing the dirty deed, elephant penises turn dark green and drag limp on the ground for a few minutes before returning to normal.

** All images are courtesy of the WikiCommons Media Project **

Big in Africa: Tips for a truly kick-ass safari

by Matthew Firestone on

This month, Big in Japan is on vacation in Africa, and will be bringing you travel news and happenings from around this often misunderstood continent.

There are few words in the English language more exotic and scintillating than safari, a Swahili derived word that literally means journey. For most travelers in Africa, going on safari is pretty much at the top of the to-do list, though it’s not too hard to see why. Coming face to face with charismatic critters straight out of National Geographic is a truly kick-ass experience.

Of course, no two safaris are created equal, especially since there are a few potential pit falls that need to be avoided. However, with a little advance planning and a good sense of what you want to get out of your safari, it’s pretty easy to ensure that you’ll have a memorable journey.

On that note, today’s posting is a quick and dirty guide for going on safari…

From posh tented camps and 4WD Land Rovers to bush camping and open topped jeeps, everyone’s idea of the perfect safari is drastically different. However, there are a few general guidelines worth taking into consideration before parting ways with your hard-earned cash.

Location, location, location. National parks in Africa are highly variable in terms of infrastructure, resident wildlife and terrain. With that said, you should plan ahead and choose a park that peaks your interest. For example, Masaai Mara and the Serengeti in East Africa are renowned for their annual wildebeest migrations, while Chobe National Park in Botswana is the most elephant rich corner of the continent. Weather and road conditions can also make the difference between a relaxing scenic drive and an impromptu wilderness adventure.

Hire a guide. A knowledgeable guide can make all the difference, especially if you have hopes of spotting some of Africa’s more elusive animals (such as leopards and cheetahs). Staff at reputable safari companies are extremely competent and highly trained, while fly-by-night operations cut every possible corner to keep prices low. Even if you’re a fiercely independent traveler, defer to expertise and hit the bush with a pro in tow.

Invest in good gear. A safari isn’t very much fun if you don’t see anything, which is why a good pair of binoculars can vastly improve your experience. While professional binoculars can set you back a few hundred dollars, you can get a good entry-level pair without breaking the bank. If you’re a shutterbug, don’t even think about touching down on the continent without a zoom lens – you’ll sorely regret it if you don’t bring one along.

Do your homework. You don’t have to be a wildlife biologist to appreciate a safari, though it certainly helps to know what you’re looking at. There are literally dozens of animal and birding field guides on the market, any of which will give you a quick crash course in the incredible diversity of African wildlife.

Less is better. While it’s tempting to spend every day in Africa on safari, be wary of animal burnout. After you’ve spotted your 100th zebra and 1000th gazelle, it’s all too easy to get jaded and start demanding more exotic sightings. So, try to break up you time in the national parks with outdoor activities and cultural experiences. And of course, remember that while watching lions take down a gnu is an awesome (and bloody!) spectacle, don’t lose sight of the beauty and wonder of the savanna itself…

Been on safari before? Chime in with road-test tips and your best animal stories!

** All images were shot by yours truly **

Big in Africa: 15 uniquely African travel experiences

by Matthew Firestone on

This month, Big in Japan is on vacation in Africa, and will be bringing you travel news and happenings from around this often misunderstood continent.

Few travel destinations in the world inspire terror in nervous mothers quite like Africa…

(Don’t worry Mom – I’m staying safe and wearing clean underwear!)

With that said, it’s foolish to make generalizations about the so-called ‘Dark Continent’ as Africa is home to no less than 53 countries, each offering an incredible spectrum of travel experiences.

So, if you’re looking to get your kicks from some uniquely African adventures, then today’s edition of Big in Africa is just for you.

15) Come face to face with endangered mountain gorillas (while avoiding guerillas) in the tropical forests of Rwanda, Uganda and the Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC)

14) Look safari chic in your khakiest khaki gear and your floppiest floppy hot while spotting the Big 5 mammals, namely lions, leopards, elephants, buffalo and black rhinos

13) Smoke some seriously kind ganja while rocking out to Bob Marley with scores and scores of misplaced Rastafarians on the shores of Lake Malawi

Keep reading as the list goes on…

12) Stand on the rooftop of Africa after ascending the lofty heights of Mt. Kilimanjaro in Tanzania – spend the next few days recovering from the bitch of an illness that is altitude sickness.

11) Wave your arms like a frantic madman and scream like a little girl after bungee jumping off the Victoria Falls railway bridge along the Zambian / Zimbabwean border

10) Watch the annual wildebeest migration in the Serengeti and Masaai Mara National Parks of Tanzania and Kenya – score bonus points for watching a few of the critters get eaten by Africa’s hungry carnivores

9) Chase daytime hallucinations and spend your nights in deep lucid dreams, both of which are common but occasionally pleasant side-effects of malaria pills

8) Go dune boarding in the deserts of Nambia – because snow boarding on snow is totally, totally overrated

7) Develop a healthy and respectable fear of water sources, especially ones that are home to hungry crocodiles, marauding hippos or that bitch of a schistosomiasis-causing parasite that is the river fluke

6) Sail up the Niger River to Timbuktu in Mali, even if only just to brag to your friends that you got the most coveted of passport stamps

5) Haggle for a three-foot wood carving of a giraffe, even if you don’t actually need a three-foot wood carving of a giraffe

4) Relive your high school days by slamming a box of wine from any of South Africa’s justifiably famous wineries

3) Dine on animals you didn’t think were edible – crocodile tastes like chicken, warthog tastes like pork chops and zebra tastes like, well, zebra

2) Learn all too quickly that a big smile, a strong handshake and a small bribe can clear up a road block very, very quickly

1) Smile in childish delight after learning that ‘Hakuna Matata’ is actually a real Swahili expression

Did I miss anything? Feel free to chime in with your own lists of uniquely African travel experiences.

** All images courtesy of the WikiCommons Media Project **