5 reasons to be a tourist


After three months living in Istanbul, I’ve gained a stable of a few dozen Turkish words to string into awkward sentences; learned some local intel on what soccer teams to root for, where to get the best mantı, and the best Turkish insults (maganda is the local equivalent of guido); and have come to avoid Sultanahmet with the same disdain I used to reserve for Times Square when I lived in New York. Then a funny thing happened while wandering the Asian side or the city with some visiting friends: I stopped worrying and learned to love being a tourist. Letting your guard down and realizing you will ultimately always be a tourist no matter how “local” and “authentic” you can live, no matter how long you explore a place, is remarkably liberating, even fun. The old traveler vs. tourist debate is one of the most pernicious and tiresome in the travel world, and while there’s a lot of truth and value in being an independent traveler, tourists are a good thing, and being a tourist can be a lot less annoying and worthwhile than the travel snobs would have you believe.

  1. Get unabashedly lost – When I make a wrong turn in Istanbul, I’m so self-conscious about being “caught” as someone who doesn’t belong here, I find myself hiding in alleys furtively studying maps, seeking out street signs from the corners of my eyes, and acting as if that wrong turn was entirely planned for and intentional. Yet on a recent trip to Prague, I was on the hunt for a cafe recommended to me by David Farley, and after giving up on the hopes of finding a wifi connection, I started going into bars and shops and asking directions. Eventually I found the (excellent) Meduza Cafe, saw some interesting dive bars/casinos along the way, and got over my shame of toting a map around.
  2. Do something you could do at home – Sure, you came to Paris to see the Louvre and absorb the cafe atmosphere, not to sit in your hotel room and watch pay-per-view movies, but seeing the everyday abroad can be a great window into another culture. I’ve wandered malls in Buenos Aires, gone to the movies in Turkey, and had coffee at a Chilean McDonald’s (I’m also a big fan of zoos). Each place I have been surrounded by locals and experienced a surreal clash of the foreign familiar.
  3. Eat foreign foreign food – Sushi is great in Tokyo, but so is Korean, Chinese, Indian, and Italian; pretty much everything other than Mexican, which for some reason is a total fail in Japan. Just because something isn’t a “native” dish doesn’t mean it isn’t widely enjoyed by locals or “authentic” to the region. If you are insistent on only eating the national foods, you could miss out on great pizza in Colombia or cheap French food in Lebanon.
  4. Speak English – Learning please and thank you in a foreign language will get you a long way and it’s always a good idea to know a few key words, but English has become the lingua franca of the world and using it abroad is often easier and can lead to good conversations. My fractured Turkish is often met with English responses and I’ve met shopkeepers, bartenders, and taxi drivers eager to practice their English, discuss politics (apparently many Turks would like Bill Clinton to be president of their country, who knew?), or ask if the cafe they frequented while studying abroad in Raleigh is still around.
  5. Stop, gawk, and take pictures of stupid things – Another thing New York instills in you is to not look up, watch street performers, or act as if even the most ludicrous spectacle is anything other than commonplace. Remember when virtuoso violinist Joshua Bell played in the D.C. Metro? I’d bet that more tourists than locals stopped to listen. Or what if I’d let my embarrassment prevent Mike Barish from taking a picture of this sign in my neighborhood subway station? Could have been tragic. Soak up as much of the sublime and the ridiculous as you can.

Maybe one day we can eschew the traveler and tourist labels, shed our fanny packs and backpacks, realize we’re all a little obnoxious, and embrace the wonder and fun of exploring a new place in whatever way we want.

Himalayan High: gear for the trek

In my last post on my recent trek to Everest Base Camp I wrote about ways to prepare for the trek, physically getting yourself ready to handle the demands of the hike. It is my opinion that anyone who makes this trip will have a far better experience, and can save themselves quite a bit of grief, if they are well prepared for the trail. That same philosophy carries over to the gear that you choose to bring along on the trek as well. The proper equipment can make the hike a much more enjoyable prospect, but conversely the wrong gear can make it a difficult and uncomfortable affair.

After spending a couple of thousand dollars on the trek and airfare to Kathmandu, it is a natural instinct to want to save some money on your gear. While I’m all for bargain shopping, it is important that you be smart about it and still purchase high quality equipment. Certain pieces of gear will play an important role in your journey, and it is imperative that you don’t go cut-rate on those items, lest you end up regretting it later.

For instance, on my trek it was recommended that we bring a 4-season sleeping bag to ensure that we stayed warm throughout the long nights in the Nepalese teahouses. That type of bag is generally rated down to about 0ºF (-18ºC), and at the higher altitudes, the unheated lodges could potentially approach those temperatures or even lower. Some of my travel companions failed to heed these recommendations however, and arrived on the trek with just a 3-season bag, and within a few days, they were all begging for extra blankets in their rooms in an attempt to stay warm each night. Their bags did end up saving them money, but at the expense of comfort. Anyone who has ever been too cold to sleep can certainly tell you that it doesn’t make for a very fun night. By contrast, I took a GoLite 4-season Adrenaline bag, and was plenty warm, and comfortable, the entire time I was on the trail. In fact, I was able to sleep quite snugly in just my skivvies, while the rest of the group piled on layers.Another important piece of gear is your backpack, which needs to be large enough to carry all your essential equipment while remaining comfortable enough to wear all day long. It is essential that which ever pack you choose also fits properly, so that it carries your load without bogging you down or impeding your movement. Backpacks come in a variety of sizes and with many options, which is why I would recommend going to a gear shop and having one properly fitted for your particular frame. On my trek I carried a North Face Terra 65 pack, which is a very comfortable, no-frills bag that offers a lot of bang for the buck. If porters will be carrying the bulk of your gear, you may only need a small daypack. If that’s the case, I recommend the Kestrel 38 from Osprey.

The clothing you take along on the trek plays a vital role in keeping you comfortable as well, but since everything you bring with you needs to fit in one backpack, you’ll be limited in your options. Your clothing needs to be versatile, lightweight, and highly packable, all at the same time. At the lower altitudes you’ll want something that is cool and comfortable, but as you go up, you’ll need to stay warm and dry. Your best bet is to use a layering system, allowing you to pack a few items of clothing that can work in unison to keep you comfortable no matter what the conditions.

Generally a layering system starts with good base layers that stay close to the skin, wicking away moisture, and keeping you cool or warm as needed. From there, you add a fleece layer, which traps warm air between it and your base layer, providing extra warmth. I actually took two fleece layers with me, a lighter, performance fleece for lower altitudes and a thicker, expedition level fleece for when we neared base camp. Finally, you can add a shell jacket over your other layers for when it gets really cold. The three layers work well with one another to keep the warm air in, but the nasty elements out. A system such as this one doesn’t take up much room in your travel bags, and is very flexible for the varying conditions you’ll find in the Khumbu Valley.

Perhaps the single most important gear item you’ll take with you on your trek are your hiking boots. You can have every other piece of gear exactly right, but if your boots are bad, you’ll end up having a miserable time. Keep your feet happy however, and the trek will seem like a walk in the park – quite literally! Picking the right boots for a multi-day Himalayan trek is not an easy task, and it is a highly personal choice. You’ll want to try on a number of pairs of boots before you purchase the ones that will see you through the mountains, but be very careful in your selection, as this isn’t your local trail, and you’ll need something more than the light hikers that you’re use to wearing along those lesser paths. I recommend shelling out the cash on a good pair of hiking boots, but when you do so, keep in mind that these shoes will last you for years. My boots are made by Asolo, and they have been trekking with me on five continents. They are comfortable, flexible and very durable. Just be sure to break them in at home, long before you leave for Nepal. Trust me, you don’t want to try out new shoes on the road to Everest. Bonus tip: wear the boots with you on the plane. If your baggage gets lost in transit, you can replace just about anything else, but again, you won’t want to be breaking in new boots on the hike.

That about covers the essential gear for your trek, but there are plenty of extra things you can bring along to help make things easier, just don’t bring so much stuff that you’re overloading yourself or your Sherpa porter. For instance, I highly recommend taking trekking poles, as they provide extra stability and traction both going up and down the mountain. A good headlamp is essential of course and should be in every traveler’s pack no matter where they are headed, and you’ll want a wide brimmed hat to help keep the wind and sun off of you as you hike. An iPod has become almost essential gear these days as well, although you my have issues with recharging it on the go, in which case it just becomes dead weight. Don’t forget a good camera, as you’ll want to document the trip as best you can, and the usual assortment of gloves, beanies, and scarves can be useful in keeping you warm as well.

But if I were to recommend one non-essential piece of gear to throw in your pack, it would be a Buff. This versatile piece of kit is the most useful multifunction headwear you’ll find anywhere. They can be worn on your head of course, covering your scalp and keeping the sweat out of your eyes. But they can also be worn around the neck, keeping the wind and rain from running down your jacket, and when the gusts really pick-up, it can be pulled up over the mouth and nose to keep the dust out, something that proved extremely helpful in the Khumbu. Trust me, the Buff is a great piece of gear that doesn’t take up too much space in your pack and won’t break your budget either, but will provide you with plenty of uses.

When making a long distance trek of this kind, it is important that you choose your gear wisely. Don’t skimp on these items, as it may come back to bite you when you need it most, and always keep in mind that your gear is an important element in your enjoyment of your Himalayan adventure.

Next: Dangers of the Trek

Walk with your bags before traveling – Packing tip

If you want to keep your bag smaller, and more travel-ready, walk with it for 30 minutes… on a hilly blacktop… on a sunny day.

I admit, this exercise may not directly trim your bags. However, this should make you more able to prioritize what you need for your trip.

[Photo: Flickr | .Luc.]

Five stylish items that save time in a security check

We’ve all been there. A security check procedure goes something like this – untie and remove shoes, unbuckle and remove belt, take out wallet, drop keys in the bowl, dig into your bag for your laptop, then step through the metal detector only to discover you had change in your pocket.

It’s an annoying process but one set in place to keep us all safe. So we deal with it. Seasoned travelers know there are shortcuts for the security hubbub and travel goods manufacturers are constantly innovating new products that help us get to our gates a little quicker. Here are five products that fit the bill.

Jimi Wallet
The beauty of the Jimi lies in it’s simplicity. The basic clamshell design and minimalist approach are ideal for those who know how to pare down to the essentials when traveling. With room for a few credit/debit cards, an ID, an insurance card, and a few bills the Jimi forces the user to keep it simple. Its translucent water resistant casing is versatile enough for a trip to the beach or a hike in the hills. The included money clip is also made of plastic and won’t set off the sirens as you breeze through security. All this coolness comes in under $15. The Jimi shows us that plastic wallets aren’t just for kids.

Kavu Burly Belt
Belts are often forgotten as a flier strolls into the metal detector. Then it’s back through the scanner or into the dreaded plastic booth for a pleasant wanding. Kavu has taken a similar approach to our friend the Jimi Wallet. The Kavu Burly Belt uses a plastic fastener for a buckle and doesn’t incorporate metal anywhere in the design. The trippy designs on the webbing that makes up the strap will make your more outdoorsy friends jealous.


Chaco Flip Pro
“pictured above”
This uber-cool flop, available in men’s and women’s models, sports a webbing upper and a rubber lower. The sole is Vibram and is designed to grip all types of terrain. Unlike many flip flops the Flip Pro also keeps feet comfy for the long haul by including an arch. The advantage to flops in the security line are obvious; simply slip out and slide through.Kelty Platform
This day pack is a workhorse in disguise. The rugged exterior gives the Platform a casual appearance but hides some handy features. The ventilated back panel deters a sweaty back when traveling in hot or humid conditions. The strap-to-sling carry configuration allows two ways to carry the bag. But the feature that will help you get past security with lightning speed is the laptop side zipper. This long zipper runs down the side of the pack and accesses only the laptop compartment to allow for a quick grab as you enter the line.

Tech4o Traileader Pro
Who says a plastic watch can’t look professional? The Traileader Pro boasts not only the ability to slip through security without removal but is also packed with features that could prove useful if your destination includes outdoor activities. The Traileader Pro has a built-in compass, barometer, altimeter, and weather forecast for the more adventurous trips.

By upgrading a few items in your travel kit to non-metal accessories and items designed for quick action you will be through security quicker and on to the coffee shop on the other side to check your email. With that said, there are never any guarantees that the guy in front of you won’t have a pocket full of quarters.

Use an old backpack – Packing tip

I spent three months living out of a small, ratty backpack in Costa Rica, and it was the best travel decision I made.

When two of my travel buddies had their brand new packs stolen, mine was safe because it was old-looking and ugly. The size of my backpack forced me to pack light, and every time I used public transportation I was grateful.

My friends would drag their huge packs onto crowded buses and take out people in the aisles, but my pack kept me nimble and friendly with the locals.